412 VILLAGE OF BARDEH. very narrow, the sands coming down almost to the water's edge. Here, on the summit of a rocky hill, are the ruins of an ancient town, which appears to have been considerable, many of the houses having been built of stone; and these, together with such as are constructed with sun-dried bricks, might easily be rendered habitable; but the Nubians appear to prefer their dhourra-thatched huts. CCCIV. On one of the loftiest peaks of the eastern mountains, we observed a number of large stones placed upright; the antique idols, perhaps, of the aborigines, who, like the Persians, may have delighted to worship on high places. Thick rows of tamarisk and mimosa trees, form the boundary between the desert and the cultivated land. Upon the eastern bank, near one of the wildest vallies I ever beheld, filled with a chaos of black rocks, rendered still more dismal by the shadows of the overhanging cliffs, we saw a Nubian hamlet, the smallest, the rudest, and most primitive that can well be conceived, consisting of a cluster of eight or nine circular huts, covered with dhourra stalks, in comparison with which pig-styes are well built and comfortable. God assuredly tempers the wind to the shorn lamb; as, but for the mildness of the climate, men would certainly perish in such wretched dwellings as these. CCCV. About four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived in the Wady Medyk, where, in some places, the sandstone mountains approach each other so closely, that they barely leave space for the passage of the stream; the eastern range being still by far the loftier, though the opposite mountains project their rugged bases farthest into the river. Half an hour to the south, the rocks on the west assume a new aspect, rising perpendicularly from the plain, leaving a narrow belt for cultivation, now covered with wheat, backed by a long beautiful grove of date trees. The of these rocks is very appearance remarkable, being disposed, not in horizontal strata, but in perpendicular columnar masses, like basalt, which is seldom the case with sandstone. In sailing up the Wady Medyk, we were overtaken by sunset, which painted the salient masses and airy pinnacles of the eastern chain with the most brilliant colours, more especially one vast cone, that, from its dark purple hue, seemed to be covered with heather in blossom. On the shore we could hear the songs of the Nubian peasants, returning from the fields with a light heart, to the lowly huts above described. An old raven was croaking alone upon the rocks --our vessel glided rapidly along through the rippling waves-the Arabs lay listlessly along upon the deck -the cooks were busily preparing dinner. Presently the sunshine rested only on the peaks of the mountains; and then twilight succeeded. Continuing our voyage by starlight, we moored at a late hour below the temple of Seboua. CCCVI. Soon after sunset we landed on the Arabian side of the river; walking, during these 414 FOOD OF THE NUBIANS. beautiful evenings, being exceedingly agreeable. The barley, in this part of the valley, already yellow, and nearly fit for the sickle, has a thick and long beard, and the grains are ranged in two rows of three deep. Consequently, the ear, which, with us, presents the same breadth on all sides, is here flattish. Wheat and barley are evidently of secondary consideration in Nubia, being merely allowed to occupy the narrow terraces on the sloping banks of the river, while the more extensive plain above is appropriated to the cultivation of dhourra. It was the same among the ancient Egyptians, who despised wheaten bread, and habitually lived upon that which was made of spelt. Mimosas and silk trees grow in great abundance upon the margin of the river. The neighbourhood is very thinly inhabited, having few hamlets, and no scattered houses. On the African side there are more marks of cultivation, and inhabitants, who, like the North American savages, collect together, after dark, and, kindling a large fire, dance half naked about the flames. This evening, in proceeding along the foot of the cliffs, we observed, high up in the mountains, a large bright fire, apparently lighted for this purpose. At a distance from the hamlets few persons are ever encountered after dark. During our long walk we met but one solitary Nubian,-driving an ass, and hastening with all speed towards his home, — who saluted us respectfully, in Kensy or Noubah. Shortly afterwards we passed a ruined house, now roofless, but more spacious and solid than the common dwellings of the peasants, and having attached to SHOOTING THE GAZELLE. 415 it a low covered gateway, containing a large jar, filled with water, for the use of the traveller. Many small huts are here constructed for the purpose of watching the gazelles, which descending at night in great numbers from the mountains, to feed on the young corn, and drink at the river, the Nubians, with the characteristic patience of savages, lie concealed in these huts, and shoot them as they pass. Hyænas are said to be numerous among the rocky valleys in the neighbourhood. We are again entering the land of crocodiles, and the siksak has reappeared with his patrons. 416 THE LION'S WADY. CHAPTER XVII. THE LION'S WADY -TEMPLE OF SEBOUA - ROWS OF ANDRO- REGULATIONS OF THE RUINS OF A REPRESENTATION OF NUMBER OF THE Tuesday, Jan. 22. Korosko. CCCVII. CURIOSITY seems never, in some natures, to be abated by experience. The novelty which each successive day presented, frequently caused the approach of morning to appear tardy, and led us forth before we could clearly distinguish objects. Our first business to-day was the examination of the temple of Seboua, celebrated for its long avenue of androsphynxes, which has communicated to the whole district the appellation of the "Lion's Wady." The ruin stands about five hundred yards from the river, in the midst of a large plain, probably once fertile, |