Our temporary boatman said they were going to get a new one; and I suppose they will, when some fatal accident has happened.

While we were ascending the artificial staircase out of the gulf, on the opposite side, a violent thunder-storm came on suddenly. It just gave us time to reach a sort of summerhouse, which is made to overhang the gulf, and to embrace a most magnificent view of the Falls. It is scarcely possible to conceive a sublimer spectacle than we then beheld. The black clouds were so low, as sometimes to hide from our view the foaming rapids immediately above the Fall, and to give the cataract, on which they almost rested, the appearance of issuing from their bosom, while vivid lightning darted from the higher strata on the falling torrent, or flashed on the world of waters in the gulf below.

I think I have not told you that Niagara is an Iroquois word, signifying "The Thunder " of Waters;" and Mississippi, another Indian word, which means "The Father of Waters."

At the inn on the American side of the Falls, I was no little astonished to receive your letter of the from the hands of a stranger, who was on his way to Canada, and to whose

care it had been confided by a friend at New York. It was a most unexpected gratification.

I returned to Lewistown opposite Queenston on the American side of the river, and crossed the ferry to our steam-boat; but finding it was not intended to sail till morning, while the American steam-boat, just arrived, was to sail at ten o'clock that night; I removed my trunks to the latter. We set sail at midnight, and soon afterwards entered Lake Ontario. On awakening in the morning, however, I was disappointed, to find that we had been driven back by the tempestuous tossings of the Lake, to Niagara Fort; where we remained all day, availing ourselves of the opportunity of a close inspection of the American garrison, which appeared in excellent order.

We set sail this morning. It was beautifully clear, not a cloud to be seen, except that formed by the spray rising from the cataract, which we saw very distinctly, at the distance of 20 miles. It appeared gradually to spread itself over a considerable expanse of sky.

As far as I can yet judge, we have a very pleasant party on board. Some of the ladies were much alarmed the first night we were out, and others suffered grievously from sea-sickness.

Letter XXEF.

Montreal, 21st August, 1822.

SOON after I had finished my letter on board the steam-boat, we stopped near the mouth of the Genessee River to give us the opportunity of seeing Rochester and its vicinity. Stages had been previously sent for, in which we proceeded to Rochester nine miles distant. On our way, we stopped to see the lower falls of the Genessee River, and Carthage Bridge. This wooden bridge is now in ruins. When perfect, it must have been extremely beautiful. It was a single arch, whose span was about 350 feet wide, and its extreme height above the surface of the river 196 feet. It gave way from the slightness of its materials, immediately after two children had crossed it. A short distance above it, are the falls of the Genessee, which appeared to me to bear a strong resemblance to those of the Clyde. At Rochester, we found a handsome cotton mill, and every symptom of a thriving town. Instead of "cash store" being painted over the shops, as in most towns in the United States; to tell the

customers that the shopkeepers sell only for cash, while they may almost be induced to sell even a thimble on credit; here "cash given for wheat," "cash given for, &c. &c." was the usual motto. We learnt also, that the town was blessed by the absence of a bank, while in the smallest American town, I had been accustomed to find banks the first object which presented themselves, the Farmer's Bank, the Merchant's Bank, the Planter's Bank, the Mechanic's Bank, the Franklin Bank, the Patriotic Bank, &c. &c. with their various combinations, had met my eye more or less in every village. We embarked again about two o'clock, and in the morning by day-light, found ourselves at Sacket's Harbour, of which we heard so much during the war. It is a noble natural harbour, and the place where the American ships employed on the lakes, were built so rapidly. Many of them are now rotting under wooden covers. There is one, half finished, said to be longer than our largest ship of the line, covered with a wooden shade, which itself, our conductor told us, cost £7000. This immense vessel, so far inland, on the banks of a lake, was a singular sight, and excited some incongruous ideas. We sailed again soon after breakfast, and in the morning (9th) found ourselves at Ogdensburgh,

about 260 miles from Niagara, which we had left on the 6th. The preceding afternoon, we had entered the St. Lawrence, and I had been much delighted with our sail through that expanse of it which is called the Lake of the Thousand Islands. In reality, there are more than 2000 of every size and form, and a lovely afternoon exhibited them in all their beauty. As we glided past them on the smooth surface of the St. Lawrence, I thought I had never beheld a scence which so nearly realized my ideas of enchantment. The banks of the river as we proceeded, were rather less wild and interesting than I had expected.

At Ogdensburgh, which is said to belong principally to Mr. Parish, who is endeavouring to settle a tract of land in the vicinity, we breakfasted at a large stone tavern which he has built, and then prepared in high spirits to descend the Rapids. For this purpose, we hired a long boat, which would accommodate the whole party, and which with 25 people on board, and their baggage, and 25 barrels of flour for ballast, was said to draw only eight inches water. We set sail about 10 o'clock, and in four hours and a few minutes, had been carried 48 miles down the stream, in the course of which we had passed the first three rapids, one of which