Y

TRAVELS

IN

GREECE AND ALBANIA.

BY

+

THE REV. T. S. HUGHES, B. D.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

SECOND EDITION:

WITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS.

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,

NEW BURLINGTON STREET.

1830.

PRINTED BY A. J. VALPY, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORY of Ioannina-View of the different nations who have inha-

bited Epirus-The Illyrians-The Bulgarians-The Servians-The Va-

lachians-Robert Guiscard-Defeat of Alexius-Early annals of the

city-Its origin-Its history in the middle ages-Government of Michael

Angelus Succeeded by his brother Theodore-Successes of Simon-

Pestilence-Irruption of the Albanians of Malacassi-Cruelties of Tho-

mas-Count of Cephalonia-Sghurus-Epistle of Sultan Murat-Cap-

ture of the city by the Turks-Calamities of the Greeks-Story of

Dionysius the skelosophist-Expulsion of the Greeks-Increasing pros-

perity of the city-Its present condition-Public schools-Commerce

-Food of the inhabitants Climate Diseases Tyranny of Ali

-

-

page 1

CHAPTER II.

Marriage-feast of Giovanni Melas--Archbishop of Ioannina-Enter-

tainments-Albanitico, or national dance of the Albanian palikars-Cus-

tom of adoring the sneeze'-Great beauty of the ladies-Particulars

respecting the bride-Reflections upon the state of female society in

Greece-Marriage contracts-Instance of generosity-Erroneous mode

of education-Story of the unfortunate Phrosini-Her melancholy fate-

Punishment of drowning-Story of Gelisem-Her singular heroism-

Remarks on the treatment of females-Marriage ceremony among the

Mahometans-Albanian wedding

VOL. II.

b

27

Shooting excursion with Mouchtar Pasha-Dinner on the island-

Grand entertainment given by the Vizir-Alexi's mansion-Dancing

boys-Mazout Effendi-Curious custom-Dessert, or antecœnium -

Merriment created by Mazout-Toasts-Destructive amusement-Signore

Alessio, governor of Zagori-Visit of ceremony to the Vizir-Mahomet

Effendi, his prime minister-Discourse of the Vizir on the grand military

events of Europe-Shooting excursion with Giovanni Melas-A tha-

lassopuli, or bird of the sea-Custom of drowning-Grand review of

Albanian troops-The Miriditi, or Mirdites-Style of living in Ioannina-

Fare of the Greeks-Termination of the carnival-Extraordinary mar-

riage procession-Ali's disposition of his females - His harem-His

infamous excesses-Court and officers-Imposture of Sheik Ali-Fate of

Serio-Retinue of Mouchtar Pasha

CHAPTER IV.

46

State of literature in Ioannina-Debasement of the modern Greeks-

Romaic language-Style of conversation-Turkish society-Mahometan

scepticism Anecdote of a Greek papas-Church dedicated to Santa

Marina-Vizir's bath-End of the carnival-Tyrannical acts of Ali Pasha

-Heavy contributions-Conference of Ali with a coffee-dealer-Tenure

of land in Albania-Ali, a great land proprietor-Chiflicks-Evils of the

inhabitants Ceremonies of a Greek funeral-Extraordinary number of

graves-Expedition of Ali against Parga-Valour of the Parghiotes—

Power of Mouchtar-Visit to him-Festival, or fair-Summary mode of

justice-Judgment-Festival at the church of St. Theodore Mummeries

of the Greek worshipGreek superstitions Greek clergy of Ioan-

nina

76

CHAPTER V.

Detailed account of Ali Pasha's life-His early history-Character of
the Albanians-Situation of the country-Origin of the people-Lan-
guage-Features of the Albanian-Religious faith-Marriages-Employ-
ment of the women-1
-Martial spirit and thirst after gain-Albanian cos-
tume - Ali's birth-place- His family-His grandfather Mouchtar-
His father-Resolution of his mother-His education-Powers of me-