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from whence he had written me a letter, which I found afterwards at the post office. We were rejoiced to meet each other, and the better to exchange minds, I accompanied the Doctor into Arch-street, where taking possession of the porch of an abandoned dwelling, we sat conversing till a late hour. The most gloomy imagination cannot conceive a scene more dismal than the street before us : every house was deserted by those who had strength to seek a less baneful atmosphere; unless where parental fondness prevailed over self-love. Nothing was heard but either the groans of the dying, the lamentations of the survivors, the hammers of the coffinmakers, or the howling of the domestic animals, which those who fled from the pestilence had left behind, in the precipitancy of their flight. A
poor cat came to the porch where I was sitting with the Doctor, and demonstrated her joy by the caresses of fondness. An old negro-woman was passing at the same moment with some pepper-pot* on her head. With this we fed the cat that was nearly reduced to a skeleton; and prompted by a desire to know the sentiments of the old negro-woman, we asked her the news. God help us, cried the poor creature, very bad
Buckra die in heaps. By and bye nobody live to buy pepper-pot, and old black wo. man die too.
* Tripe seasoned with pepper. D 3
I would adduce this as a proof, that calamities usually move us as they regard our interest. The negro-woman lamented the ravages of the fever, because it prevented the sale of her pepper-pot.
Finding all business suspended at Philadelphia, and the atmosphere becoming hourly more noi. some, we judged it prudent to leave the city without delay; and finding a vessel at the wharfs ready to sail for Charleston, in South Carolina, we agreed for the passage, and put our luggage on board.
Having taken leave of Monsieur Pecquet, whose excellent dinners had enhanced him in the opinion of the Doctor, we on the 22d of September, 1798, went on board, and bade adieu to Pbiladelphia, which was become a Golgotha.
The vessel having hauled out into the stream, we weighed with a fair wind, and shaped our course down the serpentine, but beautiful river of the Delaware. Our cabin was elegant, and the fare delicious. I observed the Doctor's
eyes brighten at the first dinner we made on board, who expressed to me a hope that we night be a month on the passage, as he wished to eat out the money the captain had charged him.
The first night the man at the helm fell asleep, and the tide hove the vessel into a corn-field, opposite Wilmington ; so that when we went upon deck in the morning, we found our situation quite pastoral. We floated again with the flood-tide, and at noon let go our anchor before Newcastle.
It took us two days to clear the Capes. The banks of the Delaware had been extolled to me as the most beautiful in the world ; but I thought them inferior to those of the Thames.
We were now at sea, bounding on the waves of the Atlantic. Of our passengers the most agreeable was an old French gentleman from St. Domingo. Monsieur Lartigue, to the most perfect good breeding joined great knowledge of mankind, and at the age of sixty had lost none of his natural gaiety. It was impossible to be dejected in the company of such a man. person sung on board, he would immediately begin capering; and when the rest were silent, he never failed to sing himself.
Nothing very remarkable happened in our passage, unless it be worthy of record that one morning the captain suffered his fears to get the better of his reason, and mistook a Virginia' sloop for a French privateer ; and another day the mate having caught a dolphin, Mr. Lartigue exclaimed, Il faut qu'il soit ragouti.
After a passage of five days we came to an anchor in Rebellion Roads, from which we could plainly discern the spires and houses of Charleston; and the following day we stood towards Fort Johnson, which no vessels are suffered to pass without being examined.
Here the Port Physician came on board, with orders for us to perform quarantine a fortnight, to
the great joy of the Doctor, who had not yet eaten half of what he wished to eat on board. Monsieur Lartigue had abundantly stocked himself with comfitures and wine; and I doubt not but the Doctor still remembers the poignancy of his preserved cherries, and the zest of his claret.
Projects at Charleston.-Solemnity the Mask of Ig
norance.--Interview with a Planter, and his Lady. -Ibe Erudition of a Professor.-A new and desirable Acquaintance.—College Toils.- A Journey on foot from Charleston to Coosobatchie,
I Landed at Charleston with Doctor De Bow, who had clad himself in his black suit, and though a young man, wore a monstrous pair of spectacles on his nose. Adieu jollity! adieu laughter! the Doctor was without an acquaintance on a strange shore, and he had no other friend but his Solemnity to recommend him. It was to no purpose that I endeavoured to provoke him to laughter by my remarks; the Physician would not even relax his risible muscles into a sihile.
The Doctor was right. In a few days he contrived to hire part of a house in Union-street; obtained credit for a considerable quantity of drugs; and only wanted a chariot to equal the best Physician in Charleston.
The Doctor was in possession of a voluble tongue; and I furnished him with a few Latin phrases, which he dealt out to his hearers with an air of profound learning. He generally concluded his speeches with Nullius addiclus jurare in verba magistri!
Wishing for some daily pursuit, I advertised in one of the papers for the place of Tutor in a respectable family; not omitting to observe that the advertiser was the translator of Buonaparte's Campaign in Italy. The editor of the Gazette assured me of an hundred applications; and that early the next morning I should not be without some. His predictions were verified; for the following day, on calling at the office, I found a note left from a Planter who lived a mile from the town, desiring me to visit him that afternoon at his house. I went thither accordingly. Every thing indicated opulence and ease. Mr. H—received me with the insolence of prosperity. You are, said he, the person who advertised for the place of Tutor in a respectable family? I answered with a bow.
Planter. What, Sir, are your qualifications ?
Tutor. I am competently skilled, Sir, in the Latin and French languages, not unacquainted with Greek, conversant with Geography, and accustomed to composition in my vernacular idiom.
Planter. But if you possess all that there learning, how comes it you could not get into some College, or School.