the centre of the room, either to eat, read, or write on, as occasion should require. Our servants were quartered in the immediate vicinity. We here met with our friend, M. de Breuvery, who communicated to us the distressing intelligence of the death of our young friend Bradford, who had expired within these walls, only a few days previous to our arrival. Mr. Cornelius Bradford was American consul at Lyons, and we had made his acquaintance in our excursion on the Nile. Impatient to return to Europe, he had preceded us by a few weeks, in our journey from Cairo to Jerusalem; and whilst labouring under intermittent fever, he had imprudently ascended to the terrace overhanging the building, to enjoy the refreshing breezes of the evening, when he was attacked with a violent inflammation in the throat, and died at the end of two days' illness. Such a misfortune befalling one whom we had so recently seen in the enjoyment of the most robust health, cut off literally in the days of youth, (for he was only three-and-twenty,) threw us all into a melancholy train of reflections, that eventually turned upon our own individual situa

tions. In summing up the many narrow escapes which had marked the past course of my travels, I could not help anticipating some accidents for the future, as my share of bad, as well as of good fortune; without, however, being able to form a conception, as to their nature or the period of their coming.

We remained some time in this painful state, when we were apprized of the propriety of paying our respects to the heads of the convent, they being at that moment at liberty to receive us. The superior, who has the title of most Reverend, and all the honours of a bishop, was absent (at Constantinople, I believe) on business connected with the order. He was represented by the Padre Vicario, or vicar, an Italian; the Padre Procuratore, or procurator, a Spaniard; and the Segretario, or secretary. These make up the chapter for the government of the affairs of the Terra Santa establishments, of which Jerusalem is the head-quarters. They receive their nomination from the General of the order of St. Francis. The usual complement of monks is about forty, exclusively Italians and Spaniards. The con

vent is a large irregular building of stone, with several courts and gardens, the whole enclosed by a strong wall.

Jerusalem, Aug. 15.-This being Sunday, and moreover the feast of the Assumption, mass was celebrated in the church of the convent, with more than usual pomp, and attended by a considerable congregation. Our appearance in the garb of Mussulmen, at first, excited no small degree of surprise, if not displeasure, amongst the poor Christians who were present; but the unfavourable impression was removed, when they saw us following strictly the liturgy of the day.

In the afternoon, the dragoman or interpreter of the convent waited upon us on the part of the friars, with an offer to conduct us to the church of the Resurrection, commonly called the Holy Sepulchre. We accepted of his offer with the more readiness as it happened to be at an hour when the public were not admitted. To them it is only open on

Kenissat el Kiamat, in the language of the country. By the Arabs it is called Kenissat al Komamat. This last word means a " lay stall," in allusion to the place where the holy cross was found. See page 51.

certain days of the week, and at certain hours of those days. The crowd of pilgrims who press for entrance on those days (not in the most orderly manner) is, I am told, immense, particularly on the great feast of Easter. On these occasions the Turks who keep the door treat them in the roughest manner, notwithstanding they pay for admission, squeezing and beating them about like so many cattle.* To obtain admission at any other time, it is necessary to have a special order from the governor, with whom, or with whose agents the keys are deposited.

On leaving the Casa Nova, we turned down the street to the right, which leads to the gate of Bethlehem. It is called Harat el Nassara, or the " quarter of the Christians.' The first street to the left brought us before the Church of the Sepulchre. Though its handsome cupola is distinguishable from most parts of the town, there being no peristyle, the access to the church itself is difficult, being nearly surrounded by buildings, which at various periods have been allowed to be run up against it.

See accounts of Travellers passim.

It can only be entered from the south. On this side there is an open paved court, presenting to view a large portion of the sacred edifice. A considerable traffic is here carried on in crucifixes, carved shells, beads, and chaplets, the venders sitting down on the ground beside their wares. A gateway formed of two pointed arches, of Gothic or Saracenic architecture, faces the court, and formed, no doubt, originally a lateral entrance. One of the doors has been walled up. The existing one is formed of massive materials, and has a small aperture in it, to communicate with visitors from without. Over the

doorway is a narrow freize in low relief, representing the triumphant entry of our Saviour into Jerusalem. To the left of it is a high tower, anciently the belfry. The church, when open to the public, is guarded by Turks, who sit on a raised divan, spread with mats and cushions, within the walls; and exact a small tribute from all who enter. The presence of such persons, in such a garb, is no doubt calculated to revolt the feelings of the far-travelled pilgrim, but particularly if he is aware of the punishment that awaits the Christian, who should venture to pass the threshold of a mosque. He may, however, console