prone to think the English make a god of their belly. In Blind Harry's history of Wallace, there are many jokes on this propensity of the English, who are, in general, represented as overgrown with good eating and en-bon-point. I do remember, in my first travelling days, being struck and diverted with the importance and seriousness with which an English commercial bagman consults with the landlord what he shall have for dinner.

When walking about the quays of Dover, and searching for something French, I perceived some men in a steam-packet, who, from their language, were Gauls ; but, somewhat contrary to my Scotch expectations, were sturdy, alert, respectable people, having no monkey looks about them; some with fair and reddish hair, and not at all like Jews. At this place, for the first time, I was canvassed for the honour and profit of my custom in the way of travelling. Two stewards delivered each a ticket, with the name of their vessels, and assurances of the best accommodation. One was French, the other English. As the French boat was more suitable, in regard to the hour of sailing, I gave her the preference; not without a slight qualm of conscience on the score of patriotism, and some dread that Monsieur might be deficient in the management of steam, and mar us with some mishap half-seas over. The ticket bore this device" Le paque malle a vapeur, Le Duc de Bour

deaux, commandé par M. Lonville, Chevalier de St, Louis, et de la Legion d'Honneur."

April 26.

This morning I publicly commenced speaking in the French language, having met a modest Swiss gentleman, on whose patience I trespassed for this purpose. Yesterday afternoon we had had a brisk gale, which moderated in the evening to a mere zephyr, to my great joy, who am a deplorable martyr to the pains of watery sickness; and I was delighted in the morning to find a serene heaven, and not a breath of air. I was not sailor enough to know, that the strong westerly winds, which had prevailed for some days, would still leave a swell in the channel. This accordingly took place, and the worse that the roll of the sea was across the beam of the vessel; so that we were as if in a swing: one moment lifted upon high, and the next descending among the lower deeps, with such a sweep as caused a titillation in the breast every lee-lurch that the vessel made; which was not long of effecting the usual commotion among the passengers. Indeed, I had been for some time in a state of incipient squeamishness, from the moment that I had turned round to see what the "voila less preparatifs" of my Swiss acquaintance meant; and, looking down through the window of the cabin, descried

half-a-dozen travellers, male and female, seated in solemn circle, while yet we had not issued forth of the harbour, each with a stoneware receptacle on the floor before him. It was soon in vain for people to attempt to cheer up their hearts, or their stomachs, and laugh at the catastrophe of others, who had only got the start of themselves by a few minutes. The brisk laugh of the would-be veteran seaman became a languid smile, the visage lengthened, and the pallid hue of the cheeks pro claimed the progress the internal enemy had made1: " rush to the lee-side of the vessel, while yet the legs would do their office, completed the full acknowledgment of being just as sick as other folks. It was quite laughable to see large stout men leaning on the arms of the polite French mariners, who conducted their tottering steps to the most expedient spot. And not a few strong carcases lay absolutely down like struck bullocks, utterly unable to traverse the dizzy deck; and were finally carried off by the shipmen to some more convenient lair, like so many trusses of straw. But I dare say my reader is almost as sick as were the cargo of the Duc de Bourdeaux: and I admit that the remembrance of the subject has, even at this distance, some effect on my inward system; so I am fain to drop it. In exactly two-and-a-half hours we made the famous port of Calais; but I was too far gone to take any cognizance of this ancient place of strength, and of its fortified har

bour, which had, at one time, been in English keeping for more than two hundred years. It was with difficulty I collected force to mount the stairs of the wharf; and there I encountered the physical resistance of a multitude of porters, all pressing, all eager to procure me for some particular hotel. I was so stupified that I had not even the power of making a choice; and mustering my remaining force, fairly broke their line. But hearing a hotel named, to which I had been recommended at Dover, I put myself under the protection of its" Boots," or some diplomatic appendage of the kind-leaving the luggage on board at the mercy of some soldiers, or Customhouse people; I could not be troubled to ask which. Fain would I have lain down in a corner of the very street, so perfectly was I subdued with the oceanic malady; but my ciceroni led, or rather shoved, sick me into a sort of office on the quay, and making way for me, I delivered my passport to a grave person; and was then felt about the sides and back by a man with a uniform, dismissed, and conducted, nearly as much dead as alive, to an English hotel, from which I emerged, however, as soon as possible, and made my way through barriers and draw-bridges into the country, where I finally extended myself on the grass, wondering much, and doubting if I were really in France, that ancient and illustrious kingdom, where Henry IV. had reigned, Sully counselled, and Napoleon wielded the iron

F

sceptre-if this sward on which I lay, were in truth the territory of our ancient enemy, and the town in my eye the same, whose six citizens had come to Edward III. of England, if history says true, with halters round their necks, as generous substitutes for their fellow

townsmen.

. Having lain part of an hour ruminating on these subjects, and recruited so far as to be satisfied that it was an undoubted fact I was in France, I thought it was now time to bestir myself, look after the population, and make remarks. It being market day, there was a favourable opportunity of seeing crowds of country folks ; but whether my powers of perception had been blunted by my late unhappy connection with a sea-faring life, I cannot tell; but I could not discern much difference between the gens de la Campagne de France and our peasantry at home; although I felt that I permitted myself to marvel at the children speaking fluently in the French tongue. The large open square, in the middle of the town, was thronged with stalls, and with healthy, cheerful-looking people. The women's duffle cloaks were of a fine deep black; and their eyes might be of the same colour, for aught that I know-I dare say I remarked the clear brunette complexion, so much admired in French females. The people speak more than we do, and appear more accommodating and kind to each other; the hat is frequently touched by the men,