power. We went also to the French ambas-ty of the great, the avidity of the merchants, sador, who treated us respectfully, but said he the oppression and wretchedness of the poor, had no authority to give a pass to an English- and the depravity of many in all the different man; but thought William Farrer would meet classes; that I am ready to cry out, O! when with no interruption while he remained in our shall the Son of righteousness arise with healcompany, engaged in the good work of pro- ing in his wings, to recover mankind from the moting religion among the people; and re- many maladies which encompass them. A marked, that he was satisfied we were what few there are, scattered over this continent, we appeared to be, without deception. This whom he hath gathered, and is gathering beautiful city may ontain forty thousand in- under the shadow of his wing; who have aphabitants, and is said to be the handsomest peared to me, though many of them are hidtown in Europe: the principal street, which den in solitary places, to be like the salt of is magnificently built, and about three hundred the earth, which prevents the whole mass feet wide, has a promenade in the centre, of from sinking under its corruption. With these about one hundred feet wide, shaded and my soul has rejoiced, and will rejoice; they ornamented by five rows of stately and beau- have been like stakes of confirmation to me, tiful trees; the woods round the town, are and with all the infirmities I feel, I am satisfied also laid out in fine walks with seats at pro- that my lot has been cast here for their sakes. per distances. All the principal streets have On taking a retrospect this morning of the five trees on each side, and canals in the middle; preceding months of wearisome travel, labour the trimming of those trees in the winter, and exercise, I feel the reward of sweet peace; serves for fuel for the poor. The inhabitants and the tribute of thanksgiving to the Beloved appear civil, very neat in their houses and of my soul, who hath not forsaken me in the decent in their persons. hour of trial, but mercifully preserved me, though faint, yet pursuing the mark, for the prize of the glory of God in Christ Jesus, my

"12th. Got to Rotterdam, and met with several Englishmen and some Americans: we were received by those to whom we had let-Saviour, whose service is perfect freedom. ters, with great openness and friendship.

"Sixth-day, 13th. Found an open reception at Cornelius Lloyd's, who is of English descent, and was the last person who contributed to support a Friend's meeting at this place. Although there is something pleasant in meeting with so many who can converse in our own language, yet the general state of my mind for some days past has been far from joyous; having travelled under daily exercise, though concealed by a cheerful countenance, partaking in secret of copious draughts of the bitter waters of Marah, from a consciousness of my natural disqualification for the work of Gospel ministry. Travelling so far, through many outward difficulties, for the promotion of the Redeemer's kingdom, brings me into deep reflection on the degree of redemption which I myself have experienced; which alas! I often have cause to acknowledge before the Searcher of hearts, is far short of what I am persuaded, the power of redeeming love is able to effect; yet some consolation is afforded by the conviction, that I most sincerely desire a higher degree of attainment, even the state of a perfect man in Christ Jesus-that I may be thoroughly washed in the laver of regeneration, until I am prepared, through adorable mercy, to be presented faultless before the throne of his glory with exceeding joy. In passing through these European countries, a secret sadness has frequently covered my soul, on viewing the pompous palaces, the crowded cities, the vani

"14th. Visited the ancient place of meeting for Friends, and it being now used as a carpenter's-shop, we requested it might be cleared out and made ready for meeting to-morrow. Rotterdam is about one third the size and population of Amsterdam, lies nearer the sea, and has fine canals running through it in different directions, in which the largest merchant ships may lie conveniently. The number of English and Scotch people, the appearance of sociability among the inhabitants and other advantages which it possesses, would make it a more desirable place of residence than Amsterdam; though it does not equal it in grandeur. Many of the houses here, as well as all over Holland, are built with the front from one to three feet from a perpendicular line, the upper part of the walls having the gableends to the streets, project over the foot-ways, which they say, is to prevent the water that falls, from running down the walls and windows. The new houses project very little, and some not at all. When a fire happens, as the streets are narrow, these projections occasion a communication of the flame to those opposite. There are people paid to put out fires, and the citizens trouble themselves but little about it. Pumps are fixed in the canals, and by means of leather pipes, convey the water to the engines, so that they use but few buckets. In the principal towns, the houses are almost universally occupied by shops below, and the family sit up stairs.

"First-day, 15th. About sixty persons at

"First-day, 22d. The meetings both in the fore and afternoon, were, through the mercy of our heavenly Father, solemn seasons; there are doubtless, a number of seriously visited souls in Rotterdam, and the prospect of Friends visiting this city on a religious account, is much more promising than in Amsterdam. Though Friends are almost extinct as to supporting meetings, yet I cannot but feel a prayer in my heart, that the Lord might be pleased to send his servants into this part of the vineyard.

tended the meeting, mostly respectable peo-extended from tree to tree when there is danple, and it was a solid good time. Dined with ger of the like disaster. Cornelius Lloyd, a merchant of considerable wealth his wife was so terrified at the noise of the cannon, and the fear of the French army entering the city, when Dumourier was on the opposite side of the Maase, that it deprived her of memory, so that she cannot retain anything a minute at a time. His mother, an ancient woman, was educated a Friend: on visiting her, she appeared glad to see us; her faculties are good and she remembered William Brown being here on a religious visit; her son has now the care of the meetinghouse, which he rents out, and has some stock in his hands to pay for cleaning it, finding candles, &c., when wanted; but the funds of Friends here, have sunk by the failure of one of the descendants, who held them to a large amount. In the afternoon, about one hundred and fifty attended the meeting, which, through renewed mercy, proved a satisfactory season; many were tendered, and it was a time of refreshment to ourselves. Thanks be to the Author of every blessing. "16th. At the meeting in the evening, it was thought that half the people who desired to be present, could not get in, and the place being so crowded and warm, they were for a time, rather restless; however, through Divine mercy, Truth rose into dominion; they became solid and parted in tenderness.

"23d. Expected to move towards France, but our minds not being clear of the people in this place, we concluded to tarry some time longer.

"First-day, 29th. Have been unwell for several days. A pass was procured for our going into France, except for William Farrer, who could not obtain one on account of his being a British subject. We had three meetings to-day, and through the renewing of Divine favour, they were satisfactory; we took leave of the people in much tenderness and affection, believing we might soon be at liberty to go.

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30th. We hear many discouraging reports of the difficulty of travelling in France, and are much exercised about the right way to proceed; believing our religious concern in this place is now fulfilled. We have none to lean upon but the Lord alone, who, blessed be his name, has been hitherto excellent in counsel and wonderful in working for us, more so than I feel myself worthy of. We visited several of our friends here, who advised us to go to Sluys in Flanders, by water, and our minds settled to turn that way.

"17th. In the evening had a meeting at the Episcopal worship-house, built by Queen Ann for the benefit of the English residing here; it is not large, but a decent plain building. Many of the English and Scotch people having gone away from Rotterdam in the heat of the war, among whom was the priest, it has been shut up for some time; the remaining part of the congregation, seeing that "31st. Went on board the packet, the Friends' house was too small, offered it free-commander was an honest looking man, and ly, but the construction of the room is such, I made out to understand his half Low Dutch as to produce a great echo, so that we are in- and half French. formed many who sat in the centre, heard but partially; however, they behaved remarkably well, and on the whole it was thought a profitable meeting; the Lord is good to us poor unworthy creatures from day to day.

"18th. The inhabitants are civil and respectful; the water here is better than in Amsterdam, where they drink little but rain water; here the canals ebb and flow with fresh water, which at this season is pretty good. The canals render it dangerous walking in the evening when the weather is foggy. A few years since, in very thick weather, there were said to be three hundred people drowned by falling into them; since which, they have increased the number of lamps, and ropes are

"1st of second month. Wind ahead, stormy and some rain; sailed about twenty miles, our cabin having no fire, and the weather being very damp and cold and the beds small, we did not feel very comfortable.

"Fifth-day, 2nd. The wind was very high; lay to all day; very cold and no prospect of getting on, added to which, we understood we should be arrested on our landing if we did not wear the national cockade, which we could not comply with; everything looked more gloomy than at any time since leaving my native shore; a little hope and some confidence however remained, and a humble trust in the Almighty Arm that hath hitherto preserved, which settled us in calmness.

"4th. Got on pretty well though the wind continued nearly ahead. Passed by several handsome villages on the islands, which are in the province of Zealand. The wind being very small and a thick fog, the anchor was dropped.

"9th. Unwell, the consequence of travelling so long in this damp foggy climate, where we have not seen the sun for fourteen days, and but very little for six weeks. Our landlady, who is a motherly woman, attended me kindly.

the people here, as well as in Flanders, are mostly Roman Catholics. The harbour, which is about a mile from the sea, is narrow, walled at the sides, and almost bare at low watertwo men, who supped at the house being Deists, I had to contend against them till near eleven o'clock, yet we parted friendly.

5th. Much detention on account of the "10th. This town is supposed to contain fog, but it breaking away, we sailed by the forty thousand inhabitants, has a gloomy apbeautiful island on which are the cities of pearance, the houses being closely stowed; Middleburg and Flushing; reached Sluys in Flanders, about dusk; here we underwent an examination by the officers and also a search, but all ended without long interruption. The dampness of the vessel, and scarcely anything comfortable, kept David Sands unwell most of the voyage, which was about one hundred miles; I was also taken poorly, having got a heavy cold. The merchants to whom we were recommended, visited us. Many exercises crowded in, so that it was a trying time. "6th. David Sands and myself both very unwell; the prospect of proceeding to Dunkirk, is from a variety of circumstances, very discouraging, it was indeed a gloomy day, faith and hope very low. The two merchants to whom we had letters, coming to see us, did not encourage us to proceed to France, supposing it to be impracticable without a national cockade, which was also the sentiment of others.

"7th. Weighing seriously what was best to be done in our trying situation, and the various reports of difficulties that would interrupt our journey, our minds being calm and composed, we concluded to pursue our journey to Dunkirk, in humble confidence on the Divine Arm, that is alone the defence and preservation of them that love the Lord in sincerity. We left Sluys in the afternoon, and arrived at Bruges before dark, having passed through a poor country. This city is thought to contain sixty thousand people, but has a dark uncomfortable appearance, the houses like prisons with iron bars across the windows.

"8th. Hired a post-chaise to take us to Dunkirk, thirty-seven miles, and passed through a flat fertile country; met with the American consul on this station, an agreeable young man, who told us that with our passes we might go all over France; this relieved us much from the anxiety we felt, both for our testimony and our safety, and our hearts were lifted up with praises to our heavenly Benefactor, who can at his pleasure dispel the clouds and darkness that at times surround. Riding on the side of the sea, we arrived at Dunkirk in the afternoon. I put up at Judith Gardiner's, a friend from Nantucket, whose husband died at sea since their settling here, and she keeps a boarding house.

"11th. The poultry market is pretty good, and fifty per cent. cheaper than in Philadelphia. Though this place is in France, the people speak Flemish and French alternately; their markets, as well as at almost every place where we have been in Europe, are in the open air, without any shelter; the buyers and sellers are for the most part women; the articles are brought to market on the smallest species of asses that I have seen; their loads being so very large that the poor animal is scarcely seen.

"First-day, 12th. Had a good meeting at B. Hussey's, where about thirty attended, among whom were some American captains, and several citizens of Dunkirk. In the evening attended a large meeting, consisting of Americans, French, and a number of Scotch and English. The company were remarkably quiet, the doctrine delivered was much opposed to Deism, with which it was believed some present were tinctured; the labour was with tenderness in Christian love, and we hoped it had an effect on some. Prayer and thanksgiving was offered to the Author of all our mercies; the people parted in much kindness, and we felt an evidence that we are in our places, though it was through many exercises we got here.

"13th. The few Friends who remain here are respected by the inhabitants, the magistrates, &c., through whose kindness they have been exempted from bearing arms, and at the times of general illuminations they have been signally protected, which must be esteemed a favour from Him who rules and disposes the hearts of men to be kind to such as keep his testimonies.

"14th. Owing to great industry and exertion in cultivating the land, which is naturally poor and sandy, vegetables are abundant and very cheap; potatoes and turnips may be bought for about twenty cents a bushel; apples are good, and in greater plenty than in America at this season of the year. The

of the present arduous journey, in many a trying hour.

"27th. At Nogent. It is the time of the carnival, an occasion of feasting and rejoicing all over France, but the Catholic religion being at present at a low ebb, this festival is not celebrated with as much pomp as it used to be.

The

Boulevards, is about two hundred feet wide, encircles the whole of the city, and is, perhaps, the most extraordinary street in Europe. It contains a great number of shops and stalls for the sale of every species of goods, many places of vain amusement, and handsome walks with seats, and is almost constantly crowded with passengers. It is a great inconvenience to persons walking that there are no foot-ways, or very few in any part of the city, so that at the approach of carriages they run in crowds into the houses, shops, &c. adjacent. There are many objects in this great city which excite astonishment, but the mind grows weary with the iniquity which abounds, and desires rather some quiet retreat even in the interior of America than to dwell in such a city; it made me feel sad and disgusted at the ever-lying vanities of a delusive, uncertain world. A passage offering to proceed towards the south, we concluded to em-powers of description. The country appears brace it and leave Paris in the morning.

"25th. Arrived at Fontainbleau, which has but few manufactures and little trade, and may contain ten thousand inhabitants. This morning for two leagues before we got here, there were neither houses nor farms, but the road bordered by uncultivable mountains, consisting almost entirely of rocks, or else by wood-land; the towns and villages on the road looked as poor as the country around them.

"28th. Passed through a handsome country, but many of the people live very hard. weather being raw and cold to-day, I pitied the poor shepherdesses, who sit on the sides of the rocks and mountains, tending perhaps a few sheep, hogs, asses and goats, on very barren pasture. They spin all day long and follow their flocks; and sometimes ride about the country on very small asses, two women on one, one of the women looking one way, and the other another way; but the habits and manners of this people baffle my

to abound in wine and little else is drank, it being generally a very light claret.

"Ist of third month. Being a remarkably fine morning I set off alone before the carriage, and after walking six miles along the side of the Loire and passing two villages, stopped for the voiture; the country was pleasant and hilly. Passing on, we met about two hundred German prisoners, who had been taken at Mantua and were in a most deplorable situation, almost exhausted in every respect, many of them having neither shoes, stockings, hats nor shirts; the miseries of war were very affectingly painted in this spectacle of wretchedness.

"First-day, 26th. The weather has been very fine and serene, the country though not rich was beautiful; the villagers dressed in their best clothes appeared lively, walking about in their wooden shoes, which they al- "2nd. Arrived at Moulin in the afternoon; most universally wear. Some were attending a considerable but not a handsome city, printheir places of worship, but more diverting cipally occupied in making muslins, which the themselves in the fields, and appear not to be women spin while walking in the streets. Our deeply impressed with trouble for the miseries cabriolet leaving us, we were obliged to take of war. The people have many conjectures what they call a chariot de post, which is about us, sometimes supposing we are Span-nothing more than a small cart without sides, iards, Hollanders, Swiss, British or Germans, at each end a basket, and in the middle a sometimes Italians, &c.; we generally inform straw bed for the passengers to sit on, back them soon after our arrival to quiet their to back, with their legs in the basket; they minds, that we are not in any of the charac- carry four persons, have a little horse or ters they suppose us to be, but Americans mule and a postillion, and these appear to be and of the people called Quakers, travelling the only carriages that travellers can obtain to see our brethren in the south of France; in France, except they travel in the national this with a present of a few books sets them cabriolets with eight horses; or have their right, and they use us respectfully. We en-own carriages, when they may obtain postdeavour to maintain a conduct void of offence; horses. This was a very trying day to my but are often much tried, and it frequently ap-mind; darkness seemed to cover my spirit. pears to me as though I was travelling in the "3d. Left Moulin in the disagreeable chariot midst of darkness and could see no light; yet I greatly desire to be preserved from murmuring, having had hitherto to acknowledge the mercy and goodness of God, who has extended his care and protection in the course

de post or potache; passed through a mountainous country mostly covered with vines, and got to Pallisee in the evening. There are but two inns in this place, kept by father and son, who were the only persons from whom