abundant in this part; it is about the size of a coffee-berry, with a rough flavor; contains a stone, and grows near the sea upon a low shrub, with thickest rounded leaves. Reached Mr. Cane's village at a quarter-past four, when we commenced repairing damages. This is not the spot where the canoe was built; the village which then existed, about half a mile distant, having since been removed to this place. A bullock was here procured and slaughtered, as provisions for the remainder of the journey across the uninhabited district. Thursday, 23rd.-Having deposited our supply of meat in the skin of the animal suspended underneath the cart, we proceeded soon after nine. Observed frequent traces of wild boar. The generality of the rivers being pent up at their mouths by sandy bars, the waters from the interior frequently expand over a wide surface within the bank, having all the appearance of small lakes. In these situations hippopotami were occasionally seen; their noses only emerging from the water. They are likewise resorted to by flocks of wild ducks, which sometimes rose on our approach; while on the higher grounds the pow (a large species of bustard) was frequently seen. Friday, 24th.-The tracks of hippopotami, panther, hyena, with many animals of the deer kind, have been numerous, and were readily distinguished while occasionally passing along the beach; but, in addition to these, both yesterday and to-day, we have traced for some distance the foot-prints of a lion. On descending to the upper ford of the Umzimcoolu, we observed several hippopotami sunning themselves upon a sand-bank, in the middle of the stream. The scenery in this neighborhood is very beautiful; the banks are prettily wooded and margined by high broken hills, commanding fine views of the river, for some distance winding below. We were nearly an hour in effecting the passage across; the water being in one part so high that the oxen were obliged to swim, and consequently every article in the boxes was wet. Had we been but half an hour later, the tide, which was still rising, would have prevented us from crossing; indeed, before we left the river was full, the tide flowing considerably above the ford. Thought much of the gracious providence by which I was saved, when last here, from a situation of great anxiety and distress. With the Psalmist I have indeed cause to say, "Bless the Lord, O my soul! and forget not all His benefits." The contents of the boxes having been spread out and tolerably dried by the sun, we again proceeded, when I soon after had another most providential escape: a large bough, concealed by the high grass, had been borne down by the wheel, and suddenly swung back with great force, knocking off my hat, and just grazing my head. Had it struck my forehead, from its size, it would probably have been fatal. At six we halted under some bushes for the night. gay and beautiful to the eye, but few of them have any scent; still, notwithstanding my frequent disappointments, I have found myself almost mechanically plucking them as they occurred in the path. It was in consequence of one of these disappointments that the following lines were written : THE DESERT FLOWER. Why is that beauteous flower neglected, Why is it cast aside, rejected, Delighted, when I took it up, I found no sweetness in its cup"Twas but a gay decoy. Why then so richly clad methought— So gorgeously attired? It did not spread its flower for nought, Alone to be admired. Ah! no-an emblem here I trace Our boasted virtues oft expand Like this fair desert flower; While we deny the bounteous hand That keeps us every hour. With Judas we may well inquire, "What need for all this waste?" The graces we so much admire, In selfishness are based. Such is morality alone, A painted scentless thing; The whole of this district bordering the coast must formerly have abounded with palmyra trees, as the stumps, from five to twelve feet in height, are numerous; but scarcely a single tree is now remaining. the natives having destroyed them either for fuel or for the pith of the branches; which, together with that of the strelitza, still abundant, are said to have been frequently resorted to by way of subsistence, when traversing these desolate regions. The palmetta, or low shrubby palmyra, grows every where in thick clumps: usually about the stems of the decayed palmyra. Although the strelitza is commonly designated as the wild banana, it differs considerably from it in two remarkable particulars. The flags of the banana-leaf are pendulous, whereas these open upwards: the branches of the former spring from all sides of the trunk; these only from opposite sides, forming a sort of fan as they spread upwards. Saturday, 25th.-Unable to proceed before ten, At noon we crossed the Umthlanga, the fourth the oxen having strayed to a considerable distance river from the Umzincoolu, from whence the in quest of grass, that immediately around us hav-country became open, with fewer trees. Some ing been recently burnt. Throughout this wil-granite rocks, of a reddish color, occurred on one derness many of the wild plants are exceedingly point as we descended to the beach. The several rivers which we are now passing are completely impeded in their course by a sandy bar, extending across their mouths; which, during the summer months, when they are full, is frequently burst by the volume of water, and a small passage opened to the sea. At half-past five we crossed the bar of the Umbezăn. It was on the left bank of this river that the settlers took up their first station when they abandoned Port Natal, in 1833; they remained here for about two months, and then returned to the right bank of the Umzimcoolu; where the greater part continued for eight or nine months longer. This river winds prettily among wooded hills, and is a fine feature from the road. Soon after six we halted. In these tedious journeys, which can only be undertaken at a foot-pace, no time can be spared for much preparation in cooking; the meat, to be eatable, requires hours. I therefore contented myself with ezinqua, (native bread) composed of Indian corn, baked in the wood-ashes, or gruel either of the same meal, or of lupoko.There is, however, a very ready and ingenious way of cooking a chop, well known among the natives, and often practised in these parts. Two or three sticks being pealed and pointed at both ends, the meat, cut into small pieces, is strung upon them as upon a skewer, they are then fixed in the ground, when a few dead boughs and branches kindled below soon do the needful. I have often envied my party this hearty meal, but have never yet succeeded in my endeavor to reduce the leathery substance to any digestible dimensions. Sunday, 26th. "Lord, is it I?”—(Matthew xxvi. 22.) How oft our actions seem to say, And he who bought us is betrayed! The more a Saviour's love we feel, The deeper anguish we shall share ; And pray that grace may yet reveal, The hidden sin that's lurking there: E'en he on Jesus' breast could cry, Lord, tell me tell me, is it I? The careless walk, the heartless prayer, The cherished wish for earthly gain, As much the traitor's heart declare, And prove that we the cross disdain : As though we could our Lord deny, And ask, in malice-is it I? Lord! keep this treacherous heart of mine- And should I e'er thy name deny, Conviction strike with-"It is I." And while a Peter's grief I feel, Thy pardon and thy love reveal. Rain nearly all the morning; when it cleared up, held the English and Kafir services. Monday, 27th.-Set out at eight. On reaching the beach, observed several rocks containing great quantities of marine shells-chiefly of the muscle kind. On Saturday morning we met a party of natives from the Umzimvoobo-their idea of English warfare was curious; being questioned respecting the news from Kafir-land, they informed us that the English army had driven the Amakōsa from the open country; but that they had taken refuge in the woods, and the troops were only waiting until the weather was warmer to beat them out. To-day, we met another party from the same neighborhood; who, in reply to my question, where the Amakōsa were, said "they were stopping where they had always been :" so little reliance can be placed upon the reports of these people. After crossing the bars of three rivers, the tide just washing over the crest of the last as we passed, we proceeded along the beach, under a wall of singularly caverned rocks on the right. We were but just in time; the spring-tides had raised the water in many parts to the very foot of the rocks, rendering the passage somewhat difficult. It is generally supposed that the survivors from the wreck of the Grosvenor East Indiaman, which was lost near this spot, found a temporary shelter in these comfortless caverns ;-a supposition which is not improbable, from the circumstance of their being still designated by the natives as the "White men's houses." Notwithstanding the wind and rain, which had continued for some time, we were unable to find any place of shelter until after six-when we turned into a small opening from the beach, formed by a stream; and after much trouble succeeded in kindling a fire in front of a clump of low bushes, into which, with the aid of an axe, we had hewn out a sort of den for our reception. The shelter, however, was merely imaginary; for, notwithstanding the canvas which was duly spread over the boughs, the dripping from above was almost worse than the actual rain, and contributed its quota to moisten our clothes and bedding already sufficiently wet. While the fire, which in other circumstances would have proved an essential comfort, became my greatest annoyance; the violence of the wind driving the smoke full into my face, filling every crevice of our arbor, and almost depriving me of sight. All this was happily disregarded by the natives-who, almost grilling themselves by the embers, slept soundly through the night. In these respects they are perfect salamanders-not unfrequently arranging the burning faggots with their feet.With the same unconcern they will dip their hands into the cooking-vessels, and deliberately feed themselves with the Indian corn while it is still boiling in the water; occasionally shifting the grain from one hand to the other for a few seconds, and then tossing it into their mouths.With this simple fare they are quite satisfied, and will undertake the longest journeys: indeed our own condition was but little better, the meat, which I had only tasted once, being now consumed. But this evening we were most unexpectedly provided with an excellent supper. My servant, Umpondombeeni, who was in advance on the beach, had observed a large bird (I conclude an albatros) rising from the surf with a fish in his bill, which he soon dropped on the sand, and commenced eating; on his approach, it made an effort to convey it away; rose with it, but soon dropped it again, and flew off. I need not say that it was soon conveyed to our bush; and, being about the size of a salmon, and of good flavor, furnished us with a sumptuous meal. Cleared up about mid-some paper, and making a hasty sketch of our night. thing remained but to make the best of our misfortune; a most inviting glen was near-and thither in less than half an hour fires were blazing, and many of the wet things spread around them to dry. The situation of our rock-habitation was one of no common character a secluded glen, tufted with trees and overhung by a rocky precipice, with a pretty cascade falling from an opposite cliff. The stream which occupies this ravine falls again in its passage to the sea over a ledge of rocks, just below the spot where the accident occurred. Wet as I was, I could not resist drying bivouac before the sun became too low. Tuesday, 28th.-Started soon after seven, and Wednesday, 29th.-As the wagon-road from the crossed the Amāne-neāma (black-water,) which Umsicaba strikes more inland, leading to no inhawas still running out, and in one part nearly out bitants until within a few miles of the Umzimof the oxen's depth. The descent to the Umten-voobo, I took my leave of it this morning; and, do, which we reached at a quarter-past eleven, is with my interpreter and two of the people, reconsidered as the most difficult part of the road solved to follow the footpath nearer the sea, which from the colony to Port Natal; not from the ac- passes through a village, at about a day's jourtual declivity, but from the number of large irre-ney from hence. At a quarter-past eight we gular rocks, which literally strew the bank. The commenced our walk, and soon after ten crossed whole scenery in this neighborhood has a rugged the bar of the Umsicaba, which was running out appearance, and abounds with picturesque fea- by a very narrow channel. Although navigation tures, to which the winding of the river greatly is impeded by the banks which form across the contributes. Some of the cliffs are luxuriantly mouths of by far the greater number of rivers clothed-while others, rising abruptly in barren which discharge themselves upon this coast, it appiles and exhibiting a reddish tint, form a striking pears to be wisely ordained for the purpose of contrast. My contemplations of this scene were irrigating the interior; or, otherwise, during the soon disturbed by a dilemma, which might have winter or dry season, many of them would become occasioned considerable difficulty. The unfortu- mere brooks, while others would entirely cease to nate cart which had been gradually jolting its way flow. Occasions have occurred when they have down from rock to rock, was suddenly caught by been let out by cutting a channel through the a projecting angle, and twice completely reversed bar-somtimes to obtain a wagon passage higher as it rolled down the bank. The boxes were dis- up; and in one or two instances in order to shoot engaged by the violence of the fall; which hap- the hippopotami in the bed: on these occasions pily was checked by the stem of a tree, or the the stream has been rapidly drained, and in a few whole would probably have been broken to pieces hours become very shallow. The country through and precipitated into the river. Happily, nothing which we were now passing is very open and of any material consequence was injured; and in rocky. Rested for half an hour on the bank of a the course of an hour every thing was again in rocky stream, and shared with the people half a its place, and we were outspanned near a stream loaf of eziuqua-the only remaining provisions we of good water on the opposite side. Although had with us. As we approached the village the the advantage over a wagon is greatly in our favor appearance of the country was greatly improved as regards speed, the weights were necessarily—abrupt hills appeared before us, clothed to their placed too high in our present vehicle for stability; so that the probabilities of an overturn, especially when dragging one of the wheels, as in the present instance, is considerably increased. The oxen having strayed, we were unable to proceed before half-past three; when, coming soon after to a rocky stream, I resumed my seat, hoping to have passed dryshod-in this, however, I was disappointed. The ledge in one part is very narrow-the water middle-deep on both sides; just as we came to the most critical spot the oxen bore too much to the left, and again overset the cart into the water, giving me a cold bath-for which I was by no means prepared, the day being far from warm. I was alone on the cart, and most providentially escaped without even a bruise; although it was completely reversed, and fell close to me. Not only was I thoroughly soaked, but every article in my box was dripping wet, not a dry thread had any of us to put on. It was now the employment of all hands to right the vehicle; which was at length effected, and drawn out by the oxen, without a fracture. No summit with large trees, while many beautiful ravines opened to our right. Skirting one of these roads we reached Umnooka's, a village almost surrounded with trees, at twenty minutes past five-having walked about twenty-six miles. The people are poor, aud the huts miserable (only six in number;) still it was the abode of manand circumstanced as we were a cheering sightOn entering my hut, I was rather discomposed at discovering in one corner a flourishing colony of young puppies; but not thinking it quite civil unceremoniously to eject them, I inquired of Umnooka whether they were to remain there all night; his reply, "they were born there," was still more unsatisfactory, and pleaded so strongly in their behalf, that I thought I could not do less than tolerate my troublesome companions. Some boiled sweet potatoes was all I could procure that was eatable every other attempt to satisfy my hunger only increased my discomfort. A bowl, black with the embers, was indeed placed in my * This spot has been named Rock-refuge. hands in the dark, containing Kafir-corn gruel; that I was now on my way to the colony, and inbut the grain having been taken from the usual tended remaining a few days at the missionary deposit under the cattle-fold, was too acid to be station, he said that he should come over and pay palatable; and on putting it down to rekindle theme a visit. He had been in ill health for some fire, for the benefit of the light it might emit, the whole contents from the unevenness of the floor were instantly transferred to my mat and bedding. I should not have been so minute, but to show how often in this country anticipations of comfort are purely imaginative. Thursday, 30th.-Set out at seven-fine forest scenery-crossed the Umzimclambu at half-past ten-having approached it through a wood of very handsome trees, chiefly umzani, and what are known in the colony by the name of sneeze and iron-wood; many of these have grown to a great height, and are very straight. Stopped at a village for a quarter of an hour, and procured some very indifferent amas, for which however a bazella (present) was asked. Having been so long accustomed to the close-shorn heads of the Zoolus, the ochred mobs of these women, and the nestlike perruques of the men, formed a striking contrast, and at first quite attracted my notice. At half-past seven stopped for an hour at another small village, called Amabōya, inhabited chiefly by Kali, from Port Natal; the difference was striking-here no bazella was asked, although we were supplied both with amas and oŭtchualla, as also a few sweet potatoes; and the Numzana walked with us some distance to point out the road. Traversing another road, we crossed the Umtafoofe, and soon after reached one of Mr. Fynn's villages, where I accepted a horse, kindly offered me by his brother, and, procuring two additional baggage-bearers, again set forward. Being too late to reach the ford on the Umzimboovo, we stopped at a quarter to six at a village on the road, where huts were provided and the people very civil. The Amaponda houses, though by no means so neat, are generally larger than those of the Zoolus, and being daubed in the inside are much warmer; but their chief advantage is in the height of the doorway, through which it is only necessary to stoop low, but never actually to crawl. time, and was still suffering from inflammation in the eyes, which had altered his appearance so much, that I should scarcely have known him again. Taking my leave, I left my interpreter to follow, and pushed on to Bunting, nine miles beyond, where I arrived at one, much to the surprise of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, who received me with great hospitality. Mr. Satchell, it appeared, had left the station, and proceeded to the colony, in company with the missionary families, from Morley and Clarkebery, some months previously —a recommendation for their return having been received from the governor, and an escort despatched to Clarkebery, where they had assembled for the purpose. Mr. Tainton, the assistant, was likewise preparing to accompauy them with his family; but on the day following the notification of the despatch, Faku, with a large assembly of people, visited the station, for the express purpose, as it appeared, of inducing Mr. Tainton to remain. His usual salutation of offering the hand was now refused; and observing the wagons packed for the journey, he significantly asked, “What are those things I see in the wagons? Why are you going to leave me? Am I an enemy?" On being satisfied on these points, he cordially gave him his hand, saying, "You must not leave me I must have some person to speak for me.' Faku then appealed to the people, many of whom came forward and implored them to stay, saying, that ever since they had been among them they had lived in friendship-they had never injured them, nor taken their cattle-why then should they now leave them at the very time when they might be brought into difficulties by an army of their own countrymen? A proposal was then made, that their cattle should remain in the country as a pledge for their return. This, however, was not satisfactory; and, finding that it was the unanimous wish of both chiefs and people that they should not proceed, Mr. and Mrs. Tainton at length resolved to remain: and I cannot but regard it as a very providential circumstance that they were endued with strength of mind and Christian courage to maintain their post, as nothing has contributed more to the restoration of confidence among the natives, and the continuance of the high estimation in which the members of this missionary institution have generally been re Our route this day was through a very broken country, affording some fine views of the sea combined with forest scenery. The foliage of many of the largest trees is of a deep glossy green, which is beautifully relieved by the light color of the stems and branches. On approaching the Umzimboovo, the country becomes more popu-garded. lous; and the path, which is carried over the hills which margin its course, affords at every turn some splendid views of its frequent windings among steep and rugged mountains. Friday, 31st. Commenced our journey at seven. Soon after crossed the river, and at a quarter-past ten reached a hut, at present occupied by Mr. Fynn, about a mile from Faku's Great Place; where we remained a short time to breakfast. On reaching the Gumkulu (Great Place,) Faku was observed sitting in the open air, surrounded by thirteen or fourteen cf his people. At first he did not recognise me, but soon inquired if I were not Uufundees (teacher,) who had passed through some time before. On hearing Saturday, August 1st.-From information which has recently transpired, it appears that for some time previous to the breaking out of the Kafir war, overtures had been made to Fakü, by Hinza, for assistance, accompanied by a present, which was not accepted; and in return a bull was sent to Hinza, in the usual symbolical style, well understood in those countries, implying a consciousness of power and an independence of action. The following less enigmatical message is also said to have accompanied the animal:-"When attacked by Charka, you refused to assist me-how then can you now expect that I should assist you?" Faku has evinced throughout the most friendly disposition; and when Mr. Satchell quited the station he sent by him an elephant's tooth, to be presented to his excellency, in order to assure him that he only detained Mr. Tainton from a friendly motive. There is every reason to believe that the continuance of the missionary, both at Morley and Clarkebury, would have been very beneficial; not merely in preventing depredations, but in allaying the wounded feelings of many of the chiefs who have been falsely accused of duplicity, and a secret intention to assist the Amakosa. For some time, even Fakû himself was represented as unfriendly to the English; and there is every reason to believe, that had not Mr. Tainton remained, and Mr. Fynn* arrived, he would have removed to the opposite of the Umzimvoobo under the apprehension that he was considered as an accomplice, and should share the fate of the hostile Amakosa. It had indeed been his intention, prior to these troubles, to have spread his people more in that direction; but this plan has for the present been suspended, lest it should be supposed that he was thereby making room for the fugitive Amakosa, and at the same time preparing an asylum for himself, in the event of any open rupture with the colony. In the month of May last, an instance occurred which at once shows the readiness of Faku to oblige the English. A party of Chungi's people, belonging to Hinza's tribe, had crossed the Umtata, and were advancing on the immediate line of his frontier. On the first rumor of their proceedings, he assembled his army; and, on the 16th, placing himself at their head, advanced as far as Bunting, on his way to the frontier. Scarcely had he appeared, when despatches from his excellency, Sir Benjamin D'Urban, arrived, informing him of the submission of Hanza's tribe; and requesting him to lay down his shield till further orders. Faku immediately signified his intention, in these words: We came out according to the Great Man's word, and by his word we will return." And in the course of a very few hours the whole body, amounting to about eight thousand men, dispersed, and quietly returned to their homes. 66 About three weeks ago, a party of Amaponda moved in the same direction-but chiefly, as I un Conducted the Kafir services, morning and even was considerably reduced, as many of the natives had accompanied Mr. Satchell. derstand, to chastise an old enemy, Umyǎki. No-ing, at Mr. Tainton's request; the congregation tice had previously been sent to apprise Verdana, chief of the Amatembu, of their design, and to point out the route they should take; notwith- Monday, 3rd.-Mr. Tainton related a pleasing standing which, a party of the Amaponda force anecdote of Fakū, which indicates at once the missed their way, and traversed a portion of the kindness of his disposition. A man having been Amatembu country, where no intimation had been sentenced to forfeit a cow for having stolen an asreceived of their approach, and some skirmishing segai, Fakù immediately inquired whether the cow in consequence took place. Faku's people show-gave milk, and if he had other cattle; being ined great forbearance, warning them not to ap- formed that he had only this one cow which supproach; and telling their opponents, who even-plied his family, he gave orders that it should be tually ran away, that they had received strict returned for the support of his children until the orders not to make any holes in their shields. This circumstance, added to a clandestine attack by some of Mr. Fynn's people, unknown to him, greatly irritated the Amatembu, insomuch that all intercourse was for some time suspended. In milk failed, when the fine was to be exacted. Having succeeded in procuring guides through the Amatembu country, I purpose setting out tomorrow; and this morning rode to the Gumkulu (Great Place) in order to take my leave of Faku. As usual, he was stretched at full length on the He was sent by his excellency Sir Benjamin ground, surrounded by several of his great men, D'Urban to assure the Amaponda chief of his friend-sitting or lying near him. Being informed of my ship, and to request he would prevent the Amakosa from entering his territory. intentions, and asked if he had any message to the Great Chief of the Abalungu (white people-liter. |