ing his lifetime; in which case a very few years must decide their fate. As soon as we had taken our leave, Tpai set out again for his other place; and shortly after we also retraced our steps. costume. The woolly hair of the women was a compound of mat, curl, and crumple, in every part excepting the forehead and back of the neck where, with great pains, it was reduced to a collection of long flaky ringlets; those in front almost concealing the eyes, and thickly besmeared with red ochre. Some few of the elder women wore a skin wrapper, approaching to a turban, after the manner of the Amatembu belles; but for a more minute description of their toilet, I must refer to the accompanying sketches taken on the spot. think it lives forever?" Tpai-"That we cannot tell; we believe that the spirit of our forefathers looks upon us when we go out to war; but we do not think about it any other time." "You admit that you cannot control the sun or the All these tribes have a peculiar method of dressmoon, or even make a hair of your head to grow. ing the hair: that in fashion here is very singular. Have you no idea of any power capable of doing Tpai, and many of the elder men, wore only the this?" Tpai-"No; we know of none: we Zoolu ring on the crown, while the generality of know that we cannot do these things, and we the younger men had so pushed and trimmed suppose that they come of themselves." Having their hair, as, in many instances, to give it the extracted this painful and truly humbling confes- perfect resemblance of a bishop's wig, with the sion, I concluded the subject by giving him a exception of several detached ringlets hanging brief outline of what we were taught in the down behind: the long fibres of a root thrust Scripture respecting God-death-heaven-hell! through the lobe of each ear completed this strange and the immortality of the soul! During the greater part of this conversation the Incosi-case was quietly reclining on her mat: she afterwards sat up a little, and I fully anticipated a long discussion would ensue; but she did not make the slightest remark. This woman* may be styled a queen of witches, and her appearance bespeaks her craft. Large coils of entrails stuffed with fat were suspended round her neck, while her thick and tangled hair, stuck over in all directions with the gall-bladders of animals, gave to her tall figure a very singularly wild and grotesque appearance. One of her devices, which occurred about six months ago, is too characteristic to be omitted. Tpai had assembled his army, and was on the eve of going out to war, a project which for some reason she thought it necessary to oppose. Finding that all her dissuasives were ineffectual, she suddenly quitted the place; and, accompanied only by a little girl, entirely concealed herself from observation. At the expiration of three or four days she, as mysteriously, returned; and holding her side, apparently bleeding from an assegai wound, pretended to have been received in her absence from the spirit of her late husband Maddegan, she presented herself before Tpai. "Your brother's spirit," she exclaimed, "has met me, and here is the wound he has made in my side with an assegai: he reproached me for remaining with people who had treated me so ill." Tpai, either willingly or actually imposed upon by this strange occurrence, countermanded the army; and, if we are to credit the good people in these parts, the wound immediately healed! For several months subsequent to this period, she took it into her head to crawl about upon her hands and knees; and it is only lately, I understand, that she has resumed her station in society as a biped. The animal necklace, before alluded to, is by no means an uncommon ornament among this tribe. Yesterday I observed a woman carrying an infant similarly arrayed: a lesser coil in due proportion being also twined about the little creatures neck. Being desirous to see the heir apparent before leaving, Tpai sent for him at my request, when Umtuchani, the hopeful chief, accompanied by his brother, soon appeared. Both are nice lads; the former about eleven or twelve years of age; but I could not regard them without some feeling of pity, as, with Tpai's sanguinary turn and love of power, it is doubtful whether he will permit the reins of government to pass into other hands dur *Manandaza died shortly after. A severe retribution is often inflicted upon this cruel tribe; but, unfortunately, it has generally fallen upon those, who are the least responsible. In their wars with the Amatembu, who, having killed their chief, Maddegan, in battle, have become their perpetual enemies, it has not been unfrequent to cut off the hands of the women who fall into their possession, in order the more readily to procure the brass rings and armlets that many of them wear. Two of these unfortunate creatures were observed at Impoza—one deprived of both, the other of one hand. How humbling is this view of humanity-desperately wicked indeed is the human heart when left to itself; and, until the light of the Gospel illumine these dark places of the earth, they will ever remain as designated by the unerring Word of God, eminently "the habitations of cruelty." May it please the God of all grace to cut short his work in righteousness, and deliver these poor captives from the bondage of Satan, and the shadow of death in which they are now sitting. Disappointed in the object of my visit (not a single individual volunteering to accompany me inland), we returned to the village we had left on Thursday before sunset. Sunday, 30th. "Who maketh thee to differ from another and what hast thou that thou didst not receive ?"-(1 Corinth. iv. 7.) Oh! what a thankless heart I bear, Though fraught with love my days have been; Yet how reluctant to declare The goodness and the truth I've seen. Why am I now exempt from pain, From pining want, and sickness spa But deeper, higher blessings still That I should e'er have known the sound Why am I thus to differ made, While millions still in darkness lie, Whose hearts would gladly have obeyed, Who would not have rebelled as I! "Tis only grace-and grace alone, Forever be its power proclaimed, A brand from out the burning caught- Some foretaste of their rapture lend. So when th' appointed days shall cease, And this cold heart no more shall beat; Long as eternity shall run A deeper gratitude will glow; |Port and the Tugăla to withdraw; and, notwithstanding two entire regiments were stationed there, the whole moved off, and have never since occupied any portion of the country to the southward of that river, which is now considered as their boundary in that direction. A simultaneous movement was at the same time made by the inhabitants of Port Natal, both white and black, who, naturally apprehensive of retaliation on the part of Dingarn, left the country, and fled beyond the Umzimcoolu. The greater part of the latter soon returned, but many belonging to Mr. Fynn, Mr. Ogle, annd Mr. Cane still remained, and have established themselves in the places referred to, forming permanent villages, and cultivating the ground. Their people still acknowledge them as their chiefs, and are prepared to remove again to Port Natal whenever it may be required, regarding themselves as totally distinct from the neigh boring states, among whom they have never been incorporated, although surrounded by them and living with them on the most friendly terms. The united population of these villages, which are prettily scattered over the neighboring hills, is estimated at fifteen hundred, every individual of whom would repair to Port Natal on the first an nouncement of its being placed under the protec tion of the British government As a proof that no hostile intentions were then in contemplation, Dingarn, soon after the arrival of the fugitives on the Umzimcoolu, despatched ten messengers, in cluding my present servant Umpondombeeni, to apologize for the attack upon the Hottentot wagon, and to request the white men would return. Shortly after a few did return, but the settlement was not generally re-occupied until about nine months subsequently. In the afternoon of this day my wagon arrived from Bunting, and as I was still buoying myself up with the hope of procuring a sufficient number of volunteers from among the English service in the hut in the forenoon. Kafir in the open air in the afternoon; about sixty-neighboring villages to prosecute the inland jourfive natives attended. Tuesday, Sept. 1st.-In reference to these locations which have been severally distinguished as places belonging to Mr. Fynn, Mr. Ogle, or Mr Cane, some explanation is necessary. In the month of June, 1833, Dingarn's army, on their return from Tpai's country, attacked a wagon belonging to some Hottentots on the right bank of the Umzimcoolu, and murdered all the people excepting three. The account soon reached Port Natal, and it was rumored that this was but the commencement of a general attack in contemplation upon the settlement. On their way home, a large detachment of the Zoolu army passed the neighborhood of Port Natal, which at once induced the natives to give full credence to the reports of their hostile designs; and, without waiting the developement of their plan, they mustered in large parties, in some instances assisted by the white people, and commenced firing upon them from the bushes as they pursued their route. The Zoolus, unaccustomed to the use of the muskets, and surprised at this unexpected attack, gave way, and unresistingly fled in all directions until they regained the main body, when the whole made the best of their way home. No sooner was the affair related to Dingarn, than he ordered all his people then inhabiting the district between the ney, all hands were soon occupied in constructing a new tilt, and getting provisions and every thing ready for the journey. Thursday, 3rd.-Nothwithstanding every effort, with the powerful inducement of cattle as a reward, not an individual would come forward, and the very name of the expedition had caused such a panic among the natives, that, although Mr. Ogle had engaged to accompany me, it was found necessary to abandon the attempt in this direction; and, every thing being ready, I set out this morning on my return to Port Natal, taking the wagon with me. Saturday, 5th.—Although the European seasons are here reversed we were not altogether without our September sport. Soon after we had left the habitable district, two natives brought intelligence that they had fallen in with two elephants at a little distance in advance of the road we were taking. As soon as we came to the spot they had pointed out, we left the wagons in charge of a few people, and went in quest of them. After walking about two miles, a party of natives still on the look out, assured us that they had entered a wooded ravine, for which we immediately made. Groups of natives (Amapondas) occupied the heights in all directions to prevent their escape, but would not venture themselves nearer. We 12 pass between the people and the loose cattle which they were driving. This is the largest species of the African deer, the males standing as high as a horse, and frequently running as fleet, though it is by no means so easy to overtake a doe even when well mounted. Sunday 6th. "And the soul of the people was much discouraged because of the way."-(Numbers xxi. 4.) How oft our treacherous hearts conspire If but delayed, in whole or part, Too apt to judge, by sense we deem Our ways and wisdom oft the best; To lead us to our heavenly rest; went down to the skirts of the wood, and occasion- of the year it is comparatively empty, and can ally caught a glimpse of their huge bodies through scarcely be said to fall, a few trickling rills only findthe openings, and a few shot were fired chiefly to ing their way to the base of the acclivity. In order dislodge them from their retreat, as it was quite to distinguish this from many other equally nameless impossible, from the intricacy and tangled nature waterfalls on this route, I have ventured to call it of the underwood, to obtain a proper aim. Tired the Waning Fall, in indication of its rapid increase at length by such fruitless attempts, we entered and decrease according to the season of the year. the wood by paths worn by the elephants them-Soon after leaving the neighborhood of this roselves, and penetrated very near to the spot where mantic glen, several elands were seen on the open they were standing, but still there was no possi-ground; one actually approached so near as to bility of obtaining a full view of them without being too much exposed, as it would have been quite impossible to have escaped through such a labyrinth had either of them been inclined to pursue. As it was, we had more than once to make off with all speed, whenever they thought proper to make a rush. The natives were so sanguine as to our success, that they had actually lighted fires, and were assembled around them in anticipation of the expected feast. Although they kept at a respectable distance from all danger, they contributed much to the interest of the scene, by frequently advancing to the skirt of the wood, shouting with their united voices, and striking their shields with their assegais, in order to induce our noble game to betake themselves to the open ground. Thus engaged, the night closed in upon us; and, becoming too dark to discern even an elephant among the thick boughs, the wood was no longer tenable, and we were reluctantly obliged to abandon the pursuit. This resolution was no sooner formed, and we had commenced the ascent, than crash went the bushes, and out they both sallied, the cow halting from the effect of a wound; but, notwithstanding we all gave instant chase, they were soon out of sight, beyond the reach of our guns. On this the hungry Amapondas quitted their fires supperless, and we proceeded by moonlight to our wagons without a single tooth as a trophy. As we walked along, Daniel (a Hottentot,) the driver of Mr. Ogle's wagon which accompanied me, related a very remarkable incident which happened to him some time ago while in the pursuit of an elephant near the Umzimcoolu. So suddenly had he come upon the animal, while watching his movements in a thick wood, that, before he had time to retreat, he felt the pressure of his trunk actually wound round his head. Had the grasp been lower it would have been fatal, but most providentially it merely lifted the cap from his head; and instantly, on finding himself liberated, with that presence of mind which danger often induces, he dived between the animal's fore-legs, and, passing quickly in his rear, eventually effected his escape. In order to make up for this detention, we proceeded for about three hours by moonlight, and the next day, about eleven, reached "the waterfall." To the Umsicaba, a few miles beyond which I am now writing, the road to me is new, being the wagon track which I have not before travelled, and which has given me an opportunity, with which I have been much gratified, of a scramble among the rocks and precipices of this singular glen, which breaks so abruptly from the level of the country over which we had been travelling, that you suddenly approach a perpendicular cliff overlooking an extensive view, and from which the cataract descends to a great depth below. At this season But could we see the germs of pride, The spirit that too oft compels, Though oft we seem again to trace Lord! never leave me to my will, In all the way my steps direct; From faithless fears my soul protect; So shall enduring peace be mine, Thy rod and staff shall be my stay; "Twill rise to realms of endless day: Forenoon, English service in the open air— Afternoon, Kafir, ditto. Monday, 7th.-Unable on account of the tide, to ford the Umtendo, which we reached on Satur day afternoon, we were obliged to wait until eight o'clock; a detention which I did not regret, as the scramble up the opposite acclivities, which was effected without accident, was performed under the softened light of a full moon, giving to one of the most difficult wagon passes that can be imagined, and which to a novice in South African travelling would be regarded as an utter impracticability, a peculiar interest, which it would be difficult to describe. Part of my retirement yesterday was spent in view of the romantic cliffs and woods which margin this beautiful river, about a mile from its entrance into the sea. It was one of those beauteous spots which, while they gladden the eye, should lead us, as Cowper beautifully observes," From nature up to nature's God;" and cause us to break forth in the words of another poet : These are Thy works, Parent of good! Almighty thine this universal frame. Yesterday afternoon some natives arrived with an answer to a letter I had sent to Port Natal, requesting, if the sloop had arrived, that she might be detained until my return, as I wished to take a passage by her to Algoa Bay; but it contained no such cheering news-nothing had entered the Port since my departure. I was glad, however, to find that my truant horse, "Pilgrim," who so unhandsomely deserted me near the Umcamas, had been found not far from that river, and taken back to Berea, and that I might expect him shortly to be forwarded on to meet me on the road. Should it be necessary after all to attempt the inland route, which is said to be more accessible from Port Natal, his services will be valuable, and I shall not regret the long holiday he has taken. vancing to attack my wagon driver, who had followed him without a gun: happily I came up at the time, and, although equally unarmed, he made slowly off, stopping occasionally and looking over his shoulder, as he deliberately ascended the bank. It is most probable he had been attracted by the pork which was still hanging about the wagons. Notwithstanding their usual timidity, frequent instances have been known in which natives have been attacked by them. Mr. Ogle related one which occurred in the Zoolu country, when he was passing through the district of Clomanthleen, in lieutenant Farewell's employment. While sleeping in a hut, with several natives belonging to the party, a hyena entered, and, seizing one of them by the forehead, dragged him towards the door-way, but was unable to proceed with his prey, as the wicker-door, which slides within two short posts, had swung back and partly closed the opening by which he had forced his way. In this predicament, the screams of the man, and the efforts of both, soon awoke the rest of the party, who, to their great surprise, found this unwelcome companion a prisoner among them. Shouting to the people in a neighboring hut, some burning faggots were introduced, which had the instantaneous effect of liberating the sufferer, and ejecting the disappointed intruder. the natives in good spirits; the strong and stringy Yesterday a buffalo was shot, which has put all flesh of these animals being as delicious, in their estimation, as the tenderest beef to an European palate. The poor beast, which was an aged one, before it ceased to plunge and tear the ground, and of immense size and power, stood four shots and even after he fell, rolled over and over down the slope of the hill in his efforts to raise himself again upon his feet. Twice already have we Saturday, 12th.-On Wednesday morning a been stopped by the rain, this being the month herd of wild pigs, about forty, were seen, and eager- when it usually commences in this latitude. Some ly chased by the people. My driver shot one, which of our halting places, and particularly our nightly was a very seasonable supply. On the same bivouacs, are truly picturesque;-often among evening we reached the Umzimcoolu, but, as it romantic scenery, sheltered, when practicable, by was just high-water, were obliged to wait until rocks, or branches of trees cut for the purpose; midnight, when we crossed at the mouth. As while the blazing fires shed a peculiar light over Mr. Ogle, with a wagon laden with elephants' the motley features of the surrounding group.teeth, was in company, the party was somewhat Not even the designs of Salvator Rosa, Bassano, numerous, and the oxen had strayed so far, that or any of the other great masters of claro obscuro it was long after the river was reported to be ford- which I have seen, have ever conveyed to my able that they could be collected. The descent mind the real peculiarities of these wild situations: to the beach is steep, and the night was so dark, the fact is, they are inimitable--much must althat in order to save the wheels of the wagons, ways be left for the imagination, and it is on this which more than once sunk into the burrows of very account that in all descriptive scenes poetry the ant-eater, they were obliged to be supported so far surpasses canvas representations. One occasionally by ropes and reims,* to prevent them may indeed illustrate the other, but to my mind from going over. In the mean time, the tide had the former has always the superiority. Of all the rapidly increased; the oxen soon lost their foot-party, my servant, Umpondombeeni, was not the ing, and, before the hind wheels had entered the least grotesque; having picked up on the beach stream, the front pair were swimming. It was a large sponge, which exactly fitted his head, and indeed a gracious providence that brought us which he decorated at the crown, which was safely through, the wagon itself being more than once lifted by the heave of the waves. On the following evening I was surprised at the audacity of a hyena. It was dark when we approached the bank of a small brook, covered with brushwood, and in this vantage-ground a large fellow, who had just quitted his lurking-place, was ad * A Dutch word signifying leather thongs. peaked with the tail-feathers of a fowl that had been killed. As this was the first time that I had seen his head covered in any way, I was highly amused at the extraordinary change it had made in his appearance, while the cap itself, which he persisted in wearing during the remainder of the journey, reminded me of the antique drawings of Dacian helmets, and was by no means unbecoming. On reaching Mr. Cane's village, where we stopped some little time this morning, I found my horse. Two men, we understood, had recently been drowned in an attempt to cross the Umzimcoolu at, the upper ford. Had they waited until the ebb tide, there would have been no danger, but this is a point of experience to which few of them have yet arrived; too frequently acting upon an absurd notion that when the moon has set the water has likewise reached its minimum. Including the above, three persons have been drowned at the same river within the short space of two months. Unfortunately, the natives of this part of Africa have not the slightest idea of a canoe, and but very few of them can swim. When the trading sloop, about fifteen tons, anchors in Port Natal, "The Ship" is announced, and numbers flock to the beach to behold the wonder. The prolific mattingoolo, so generally abundant near the sea, was now entirely out of season-not one was gathered during the whole journey, to our no small regret, as we were living chiefly on meal, without even sugar to make it more palatable. Sunday, 13th. "It is well."-(2 Kings iv. 26.) When wave on wave our souls oppress, And troubles like a flood o'erwhelm ; When tempest tost in deep distress, No pilot seems to guide the helm"Tis grace alone that storm can quell, And cause us to pronounce-""Tis well." Grace, like the tree Elisha found, Can make the bitterest waters sweet; Though all seems dark and dreary round, It sooths the deepest grief we meet; And though our hearts too oft rebel, Inclines them to confess" "Tis well.” Hushed in the storm-its fury laid, "It is I-be not afraid!" Thy Saviour and thy God is near! No more the billows rage and swell, Cheered by His presence-all is well. Like suffering Job, the soul can cleave, Submission is thy work indeed But Thou has promised more than this; Lord, let my soul from sin be freed, Make me thy chastening rod to kiss ; Make faith and love within to dwell, And then, indeed, it will be well. What though rebuked and chastened here, In that bright world of light and joy, The mercies of our days to sum. Performed English service in the morningKafir in the afternoon. Tuesday, 15th.-Yesterday morning I left the wagons about five miles on this side of the Umcamas, and rode to Berea. No vessel had arrived, and it was the general opinion, to which I could not but acknowledge the painful probability, that she was lost. Since my absence, a native in the service of Mr. Plankenberg has been killed by an elephant near the Mavooti. The hunting party to which he belonged had bivouacked for the night, when suddenly they were surprised by a troop of elephants, approaching close to their sleeping place. They had scarcely awoke when they were obliged to fly for their lives-all, excepting the deceased, crept under the neighboring bushes, and remained perfectly still, were unmolested, while he, endeavoring to effect his escape by running, attracted their notice, and was immediately seized and trodden to death. On the arrival of my wagon this afternoon, preparations were commenced for a journey across the Quathlamba mountains, it being now my intention to endeavor to reach the colony by that route, every other being completely closed; and, after communicating with his Excellency, to proceed directly to England, in the hope of procuring missionaries to occupy the stations now formedhaving as yet been unable to forward one single letter to the Church Missionary Society on this important subject, although many have been writ ten. Monday, 21st.-The hyena which had unceremoniously broken into the hut where the meat was kept, and devoured part of it on Saturday, returned last night, and finished the remainder, carrying even the door of the hut, which was found almost broken to pieces, to a considerable distance. This is the hut which was originally used as the school, and on Sunday for the English service. Thursday, 24th.-On Tuesday afternoon the equipment was so far advanced, that we left Berea, and spanned out on the flat opposite to Mr. Collis's, in order to take in the remainder of the provisions. Solitary as was my abode at this place-a humble grass-hut, affording nothing, either within or without, which in common parlance might be inIcluded within that most comprehensive of all English words, "comfort"-still it had been my "home," and was not divested of many pleasing associations; but it was not until I had actually turned my back upon it, and was descending the hill, that I became sensible of the place it already occupied in my affections. I had just taken leave of my faithful servant Umpondombeeni, to whose attachment I could not be insensible. Though reluctant to leave his wives, he mearly asked my leave to visit them at the Tugăla, and return in time for the present journey; but this I thought unreasonable, and sent him home, with directions |