tleman, and verify the title, as to anecdote and observation. Here and there the Catholic appears, blinking the two important features of the question,-one the re-introduction of papal authority into this realm,-the other the refusal of protestants to recognize doctrines not sanctioned by the Bible. The author calls it persecution, if civil, political, and ecclesiastical institutions object to things, which in his judgment are inoffensive matters of course; but which by his opponents are deemed alarmingly dangerous. But as these things are by no means prominent characteristics, are not obstructions in the highway of the book, it is not worth while to notice them any further. The work contains many judicious and curious notices, some of which we shall extract. It appears, that at Rome a tax is paid of 18 scudi (or 41.) for the privilege of reading old books, mostly of education and Catholic piety. So much for any encouragement given to the Catholics even to understand their own creed. St. Peter's and St. Paul's are in our judgments only splendid caverns, not churches. The author makes many just remarks concerning St. Peter's. Beginning with the Colonnade, he says: "It appears too small for the building to which it leads; and four rows of pillars are most unnecessarily crowded together to support an useless roof that would have rested as safely on half that number. These pillars are not formed of one single block, but of many separate stones, which plurality of stones in one column has a shabby appearance. The obelisk and fountains in the centre of the space enclosed by the colonnade, have a too ornamental and gardenlike air; which is increased by the shape of these fountains, similar to those generally seen in gardens, but formed of a greater number of squirts, which divide up the mass of water. The colonnade is on each side joined to the Church by a naked wall; it is decorated only by some scarce perceptible pilasters, which seem to break off its connection with the main body of the building. The façade of the Church I can only compare to a new-built hotel de ville, town hall, or some other public building; not to a Church-that is the last thing to which it can be assimilated. Pillars and pilasters, placed one on the other; the intermediate space occupied by arched and oblong gateways, by square and long windows-some with, some without balconies-and by mezzonini, sometimes open, sometimes blocked up with bass-reliefs, as if to save window tax; a small pediment rising over one third only of the extent of façade; this pediment, and the rest of the entablature at each end of it, surmounted by a high wall, ornamented with pilasters and square windows, and supporting a stone balustrade, above the two ends of which arise two clocks with pink-coloured faces, which themselves suppartly concealed by this wall and balustrade, port a tiara and two keys; three domes even from the distant point from which I then viewed them, but which, as I approached nearer, entirely sunk behind this vile screen. Such is the façade of St. Peter's." i. 47. Our author then proceeds to criticise the interior: "The side ailes I then perceived to bear no proportion with the center, and that, although so narrow, they are also encumbered by tombs of Popes and Sovereigns. The transept, crociata, appeared to me too narrow, and not sufficiently ornamented. Looking from the west end [the Church is entered from the east end] down the center aile, a bad effect is produced by windows seen over the doors, and which communicate between the Church and the second story of the portico. The plain, oblong, sash windows, placed in many parts of the Basilica, particularly those round the dome, dome itself I say nothing; the boast rehave a drawing-room appearance. Of the corded of Michael Angelo is in some sense fulfilled; a dome, is true, but not a pantheon, is raised in the air; an architectural difficulty has been overcome; but has an architectural beauty been gained? ought a dome to be placed on huge pillars of masonry, like the cover of a pepper-box standing on stilts? I think not. The interior of the dome of St. Peter's is not visible from the entrance of the Church. The whole of it can be seen by those only who stand immediately under it, and even then its proportions cannot be judged of. On account of the height to which it is raised, it cannot be perceived how great is its expanse of arched roof. When a dome is on the earth, as the Pantheon, its form, its majesty, and its extent break at once on the spectator, who sees it rise from the ground, and sublimely bend above him; it forms of itself a grand hall, every part of which is present to the eye. But the dome of St. Peter's has not the least relation to the hall below; and the conviction of its atter inutility pervades the mind, at the same time that the strained eyes and distorted neck give sensible proofs of the inconvenience of its situation. The end of architecture is to create a fine object, at the same time that a want is supplied; that therefore which is unnecessary and useless, is devoid of its greatest claim to admiration. "An easy staircase leads to the roof: I was disappointed, on reaching it, to find none of that grandeur and bustle, mentioned with such enthusiasm by Eustace. On the contrary, the different glass lanterns of the various domes, which peep through it, have the appearance of so many glass hot-houses. The two minor domes, seen when at a sufficient distance, one on each side of the large one, are of no possible use; they have no communication with the inside of the Church, but are raised on pillars on the flat roof. Of what service are the enormous pillarcovered buttresses built against the great dome? If they were placed there to support it, they have ill fulfilled their office, for the dome is split. These buttresses give it the ungraceful appearance of being too wide for its height." Pp. 49-51. It appears that, when a brigand in the Papal State is tired of robbery and assassination, he has only to capitulate -be pardoned—and pensioned for life. i. 75. The Apollo, the Laocöon, &c. are placed in cabinets on pedestais too close to the wall for their backs to be visible, and have bars of iron fixed in their spines, to support them. i. 99. As to the Vatican library, it can be only presumed that there are books in the cases, for they are never opened without a special order, and, as there is no door-keeper, " none can enter the library, when the librarian happens to be beyond hearing of the knocker." Pp. 101-102. Our author wishes, that Rome had remained uninhabited-been only a heap of ancient ruins; and so do we, for modern buildings spoil it. The following reflections are highly sentimental-worthy of Madame de Stael: "Excepting a few of the principal monuments, the other remains of ancient Rome present little interest. Let Antiquaries admire, study, and explain each remnant. I am unable to confine myself in this manner; to embarrass my mind with details, the which always lessen, whatever is in itself really grand. I can look only at the whole, at the ensemble, and what an ensemble! Here, then, stood Rome; here on this ground! This is the spot on which my thoughts had been so long rivetted, that had so long attracted my desires! And now that they are accomplished, what do I find? a wilderness? No, that were preferable to the crowds and cares that have again risen from this consecrated soil. A desert were more congenial to my imagination than the life that covers this grand wreck. Set aside the modern town, and suppose, only for an instant, the Pantheon, the Forum, and the Coliseum to be standing alone; to be towering in solitary grandeur, like the temples of Paestum. Suppose them surrounded with the minor, but nevertheless giant limbs that still remain of the capital of the world; suppose them diminishing as they depart from the center, and finally losing themselves in a sublime and uninterrupted desolation. Such are the reflections that must press upon the mind of the stranger, who, visiting in succession every fragment of antiquity, turns away discontented with every object that successively strikes him as unworthy of the city of which it is a relic." Pp. 106, 107. concerning our countrymen, in which There are many curious anecdotes our readers will easily recognize the genuine features of John Bull. It seems, that it is the custom, during the Carnival at Rome, for persons who are acquainted, to throw bonbons (sugarplums) at each other. The Romans patronize it but little, "while the Engfish carry it on with all the fury and boisterousness of schoolboys." i. 111. During the ceremonies of the Holy week, places in the Churches were partitioned off for the English, "who carried with them cold meat, fowls, and bread, which they ate during the celebration of the offices, and threw the bones and waste pieces on the Church-floors." 129, 130. The Neapolitan "Geornale" (newspaper) related, that an English surgeon had killed his wife with a pokero; and the Editor annexed a note, saying, "we do not know if this pokero be a domestic or surgical instrument." ii. 13. An English man-of-war having anchored off Baix, "all the officers, even the cabin-boys, set up as declared and intrepid antiquaries, and landed with boat-loads of sailors, provided with spades and pickaxes. Parties of men were sent out to mark places for the next day's excavation. One of them reported the discovery of a capital remain. It turned out to be a modern monument, with the arms of the King of Naples. The sailors had put the ropes around it to pull it down, when the officers discovered the mistake." We shall close this account of Anglicisms with the following anecdote: "An Englishman purchased in the Pontine marshes two little pigs, whose race he admired, and which he intended to take in his carriage to England. He was very naturally anxious that they should be well fed, in order that they might support the fatigues of the long journey they were about to undertake; but his French Valet demanded imperiously whether he had been hired as Valet de Chambre, or to feed pigs? swearing that the pigs might die, if they liked, for from that moment he would never again touch them. 'Our countryman, resolving to do any thing rather than abandon his pigs, was therefore obliged to hire a boy to feed them." P. 146. We all know the outcry which was raised against Government, in the matter of (as the lawyers call it) the late Queen Caroline. We knew the scandal concerning it to be rife all over Italy, before proceedings were commenced. The following anecdote will satisfy the impartial reader that the evidence was not fabricated, as some pretended, for a Court purpose. At Terni is the Palazzino, a neat countinghouse belonging to the Conte. "My guide informed me that in this house the Princess of Wales and Bergami had passed a fortnight in each other's company. He testified as to their having been always seen walking together, and to their having retired at sight of strangers, but he said, that no one from Terni had been called as witness to England." ii. 165. If Cato could again revisit the earth, what would he say, when he saw RoMANS drest in round hats and London cut coats; and ROMAN rooms, covered with English carpets, and papered with views of Paris. i. 27, 28. Even English fish-sauces abound. i. 110. We have only room to add one curious thing more, out of many; viz. an island to be sold near Baiæ, with a ducal title annexed, for only four hundred pounds! i. 239. So much for foreign titles! and what a prize for an English puppy! We can justly recommend these Travels as frequently curious, and always entertaining. The Author is particularly entitled to praise for his sentiment, which in places assimilates with success that of the "Sketch Book." and entertainment, as well as the Statistics, unite in rendering it valuable for reading, as well as reference. One thing particularly pleasurable we derive from it, viz. that, as in Italy and the South of Europe, difference of opinion in religion and politics, and national jealousies, render the English unpopular; so, on the contrary, in the North, the "very name of Englishman carries with it the stamp of integrity, and is a sufficient passport to the best and highest society which the countries can afford." P. 504. We shall notice some curious particulars. Danish carriages resemble a four-wheeled English phaeton, but have a window, which may be dropded down in front, into a frame, fixed to the top of the apron, making it quite close when necessary (p. 21). At certain times of the year, when hydrophobia usually appears, all dogs seen abroad must be muzzled, a precaution which our author thinks might be adopted in England (Ibid). The Church of our Saviour has a curious steeple, which is ascended by 365 steps, one-third of which form a circular or spiral staircase at the outside of the building, covered with copper, and made secure by a firin railing (38). In p. 90 we have a long and most interesting account of the beautiful Queen of Prussia-her letters to her father-her dying hours, and inter alia the following statement of her interview with Napoleon. It had been deemed advisable, that this lovely Queen, although in a weak state of health, should repair to head-quarters to endeavour by her commanding address, to obtain an influence over Napoleon, and gain from him some alleviation of his cruel mandates against the tottering kingdom of Prussia. There are two accounts of this interview. One of these Mr. Smith says he derived from a person, who "Lodged immediately opposite the King of Prussia's apartment, and at the first interview which Napoleon had with the Queen, could distinctly see both, as they stood together at the front window. "The countenance of the Queen was particularly animated, and she appeared to dwell with much force on the miseries which her people suffered from the French yoke. Napoleon rested his arm on the window, his head reclining on his hand, and seemed during most part of the time to receive the address of the Queen with the greatest com posure, looking earnestly at her. Occasionally, however, when she appeared very warm, he raised himself, and seemed somewhat embarrassed, but again relapsed into the same posture." The second account is this: "As soon as the Queen arrived, Napoleon waited upon her; and it was to her an easy task how to conduct herself during the first moments of that singular meeting. She received Napoleon with a refined elegance, and such a commanding address, as superior powers of mind alone can give;-first lamented that he had been obliged to ascend to her apartments by such miserable stairs [she lodged over a mill], and inquired how the northern climate had agreed with his health, during the preceding winter. She then proceeded to the object of her visit ;she had come to exert her influence, in endeavouring to obtain for Prussia a peace, which would at least be supportable. Napoleon possessed but little gallantry, consequently the intercession of this noble woman was entirely fruitless. Of the conversation at this singular conference, during which the Queen gave many proofs of a noble and elevated soul, I shall only further notice, in conclusion, one of her replies, which excited the admiration of the bye-standers. Napoleon asked her, But how dared you commence the war against me,'-and there was something terrible in the tone in which these words were uttered. The Queen answered with calm, yet dignified composure. Sire, il étoit permis à la gloire de Frederic, de nous tromper sur nos moyens, si toutefois nous nous sommes trompés.' This reply was heard by the French minister Talleyrand, and by him repeated to the writer." P.98. floors of which are formed of small squares of oak, without nails," (144). The seat of Field-marshal Lubormerski likewise consists of a small house of two stories only, surrounded by an extensive garden. The groundfloor is formed as a hermit's cave, with walls of a substance exactly resembling rock (incongruously intermixed with looking glass), and in another room with a painted screen over the window, in order to produce an artificial dimness (143). Here we shall pause a moment to notice the folly of erecting permanent buildings, where only a day or two's residence is desirable. A fine couvenient tent is the proper thing; and with camp kitchens and other conveniences of camp furniture is far better than the wasteful extravagance of regular houses, doomed to non-habitation and ruin. Mr. Smith, in p. 149, states a curious fact concerning the acquisition of foreign languages: "From the difficulty, owing to the number of consonants, of pronouncing the Polish dialect, the natives can with ease acquire the accent of any other tongue." P. 149. He also tells us, that he occasionally met with a "Female Jewish banker, of immense wealth, whose sole conversation was on mercantile affairs; and she would talk of the French obligations, or the English stocks, At Memel, owing to the almost exclusive connexion during the war with Great Britain, not only is our language We rejoice that we English have spoken frequently, but port wine has no she-bankers, who are men of busibeen introduced; indeed the bias to- ness, and personally dabble in consols. wards what is English is so great, that In our judgment, all the peach-bloom Mr. Smith says, if our timber duties of the female character must be destroywere moderated, a much more exten- ed by the dealer and chapmanship of sive and reciprocal trade would be the buying to sell again, a very different thing result, p. 121. At the battle of Eylau, from common marketing and shopNapoleon took his station in the Church ping, which is a mere morning's amusesteeple, built of wood, and covered with ment. But business-business which shingles, through which peeping-holes shuts up the heart, makes of a woman were made for him. The steeple was a man spoiled-makes an automaton perforated in several places by bullets, chess-player of an angel, a term which so that he must have been in consider- philosophers may use in reference to able danger, p. 125.-Our author in that grace, disinterestedness, and pup. 129 commends the fortress of Grau-rity which distinguish the feelings and dentz, because it is a mile from the city, a situation which prevents the destruction of the latter in case of siege. The Royal Palace of Cronckarnio consists of very large gardens, but a small house, of only sixteen apartments, "the affections of women; not because poets so denominate pretty human playthings of eighteen or nineteen. In p. 153 we find reaping with a scythe, provided with a cradle, to lay the swathe straight to the ground. The poverty of Prussian towns may be known by the postmaster at Grieffenberg, being also attorney, surgeon, apothecary, and accoucheur; the last branch of his profession being denoted by the figure of a stork over his door; a bird held sacred by females, who deem it a very favourable omen, if one of the species build her nest near the house during their pregnancy (p. 154). At Berlin, there is, it seems, an iron foundery, where small trinkets "are prepared, to which Mr. Smith saw nothing similar in England" p. 166. In recompence, it seems, we have not only manufactured better cotton stockings, but undersold the Prussians at their own doors. Ibid. Blücher (the drunken dragoon, as Napoleon called him in spleen, but who was far his master in the art of successful retreat,) was a man, whose integrity had a nobility of principle, equal to that of Leonidas); and we are sure that every possible account of him will be interesting to our readers. By the way, has there ever been a Life of him published? en "Prince Blucher, being at his estate in Silesia, I had not an opportunity of seeing that gallant veteran; but I accompanied a banker to inspect his palace in the Brandenburg-square. The house was fitted up in the most elegant style, and one room tirely furnished with presents from different sovereigns. Amongst the paintings, I noticed portraits of our late revered Monarch, George III., and of his present Majesty, as Colonel of the 10th Hussars, very finely executed; of the King and late Queen of Prussia; of the late Emperor of Russia; of Napoleon; a very curious one of the Emperor of China; and the celebrated full-lengths of the Buonaparte family, by Robert, viz. the Princesses Borghese and Pauline, Joseph and his wife, Louis and his wife, and Madame Murat: the features of the last are extremely beautiful. The study was ornamented with engravings of Christ Church, Oxford, and the coloured views out of Boyer's Triumphs of Europe'." P. 168. He was lodged at Christ Church, Oxford, during the visit of the Royal Sovereigns in 1814. It is still told of him by students of the day, that he was seen early in the morning at his lodgings there, sitting in his shirtsleeves, smoking his pipe; and that, at the University dinner, he took up the lobster sauce, and ate it without accompaniment. At the celebrated Leipsic fair, amongst other sign boards, were frequently to be seen "The Duncans from Glasgow,' and the M'Gregors from Paisley;' neither the length of the journey, nor (at that time) the little probability of a brisk fair, could prevent the indefatigable Scotchman from penetrating thus far. Indeed it must be North are to be met with in the most disacknowledged, that our brethren of the tant countries; and to their credit be it said, are almost universally successful and respected." P. 261. Every body knows that the explosion of the Bridge at Leipsic prematurely, by mistake of a corporal as pretended, occasioned a great loss to the French upon their retreat. Our author (p, 265) states, that it was, however, effected by direct orders from Buonapartè, because the Cossacks were dreadfully mangling his rear, and the allies, rapidly advancing, on which account he knowingly sacrificed Poniatowsky and the Poles. Hanover should, it seems, be spelt Hannover, and pronounced Hannover. Hanoverian mail, which is a common -Our author sadly complains of the covered cart. From the connection of that country with England, our readers may take an interest in the following statistical table. "COMPENDIUM OF HANNOVER.-Extent, 14,835 square English miles, or 9,494,400 aeres inhabitants, in 1816, 1,325,000. In the same year the marriages were 13,786; births, 50,257; deaths, 81,264.-Religion, Lutherans, 1,050000; Catholics, 160,000; Reformed, 90,000; remainder Mennonites, Moravians, and Jews. National income secret; but supposed to be 12,000 gulders per annum (about 1,500,000/). The monarch is the largest land-owner. The Vice-roy draws from the Treasury annually 36,000 rix dollars (5,500l.) The Assembly of States consists of 10 deputates, of which 101 are chosen for, but not by the Clergy, 49 by Ritters (land-proprietors), and 42 by City Corporations.-The Military are 12,940, of which 6,300 (or 10 battalions) are infantry." P. 287. In p. 347 mention is made of an ingenious American buoy, provided with a vane, which, when moved with the wind, shakes a number of small bells, fixed in the inside, so as to be heard, when from darkness it cannot be seen. P. 347. In Holland we find a picture with five lights introduced into it (348); a Church clock marked " William Sprakel fecit 1670" (352); the men, wearing their hats at Church (356); hackney coaches, attached to sledges (360); |