CHAPTER I. EUROPEAN ROUTE-OUTWARD. MOTIVES, ETC.-FRANCE-BOULOGNE-ROMISH PREACHING-CAVIGLIA-FRENCH DILIGENCE LYONS ROMISH SUPERSTITIONS — THE RHONE-AVIGNON- ROME DOGANA-ST. PETER'SPANTHEON-ANCIENT ROME-ROME: HOLY WEEK"-THE POPE-PAPAL PONTINE MARSHES-TERRACINA-APPIAN WAY-FONDI-MOLA-TOMB OF CICERO ST. AGATHA CAPUA-NAPLES MONTE POSILIPO- -VIRGIL'S AND OF HOST -SICILY-SCYLLA MELITA MALTA-SYRA-CRETE-MAHOMMEDAN DEVOTIONS-FIRST VIEW WHEN preparing this narrative, principally for the perusal of the members of a beloved flock at whose request it was undertaken, I felt that, in order to give a view of the manner in which the period of my absence from them was passed, I must introduce many a scene and topic already familiar to those whose reading has lain in the way of voyages and travels. I do not expect to add much to the impressions made on the public mind by travellers more extensive, and authors more gifted than myself; but I just entertain the hope, that many, who have not had much opportunity for perusing what has been already written upon the scenes of my pilgrimage, may participate the deep interest I have felt, and share the instruction I have derived from a visit to the most intensely interesting localities in the world; and B certainly, when I left the shores of my native land, with broken health and unfitness for the toils of parochial duty, it was under the persuasion that I was not about to travel for my own selfish gratification, but with an extended motiveand I think a high one too, comprehending in it a desire to benefit my flock as well as myself. It is not an easy matter to depict the state of mind with which I prepared for an undertaking that looked so much like enterprise, to one, whose life had been spent within the narrow ocean-girdle of Britain, and much of it in the comparatively retired occupations of a Christian Pastor. Difficulties I knew were to be met, and dangers, perhaps, to be encountered, from the very nature of the countries and climates through which I proposed to travel, which might be trying and distressing to one, whose past connexion with home and the scenes and employments of home had been the source of comfort and delight; but still, a great point was to be gained; and scenes which had become endeared and sacred to me ever since the Bible first poured its light and truth into my heart, seemed to invite me at a distance; and well I knew that God, who had in ancient days manifested himself there to patriarchs and prophets and apostles-and especially in his own dear Son, would still be there in the energy of his power, and in the tenderness of his love, and in the richness of his gospel-grace. As a Christian man, I went forth to visit the birthplace and cradle of Christianity, with my Bible for my guide-book and solace; and it is a record of impressions made upon a Christian mind that I wish to present in these pages. It is neither my desire nor intention to describe emotions. and sensations occasioned by the presence of venerable and sacred objects, for they, of necessity, must be peculiar to the tone and habit of individual minds, and therefore, not unfrequently obscure, and generally unsatisfactory to others, whose susceptibilities have never been awakened by the actual presence of the objects to which they may refer. Mere |