THE DANUBE-SKELEGLADOVA-NEW AND OLD ORSOVA. 441

and wandered among the bazaars, marking the semi-oriental appearance and habits of the people. How poor-how uncleanly! The Pasha of Widdin (Hussein Pasha), was an active instrument in the hands of the late Sultan Mahmoud, for the slaughter of the Janissaries; and was promoted to his present post as the reward of his sanguinary merit. I had curiosity enough to wish for a view of him, but he was absent on account of an insurrection, which was then rife. We were, however, presented by Mr. La Fontaine, to his son-a youth of about sixteen, and also to an officer, acting as lieutenant during the Pasha's absence. They were seated on a dewan, in a room whose latticed windows looked out upon the Danube. Soon after taking our seats, we were served as usual with coffee and pipes-the amber mouth-pieces of which were studded with diamonds. The young Turk remained silent during the visit, glancing at us now and then with a look of curiosity and inquiry. The lieutenant was very conversable on small matters. He expressed a vehement desire to visit England, but avowed an unwillingness to travel so far by water.

About noon on the ninth day, we reached Skelegladova, where we were transferred to towing boats, for the purpose of passing the rapids-a part of the river where the steamer was impracticable. The boats are made without keels, on account of the great number of rocks which are sometimes but slightly covered. This towing is a very irksome affair, and a great trial of patience. From Skelegladova the scenery, on either side, becomes really bold and beautiful, something after the manner of lake-scenery in England. In the evening we reached New Orsova, situated on an insular promontory, northward, having in connection with it a Turkish fort on the opposite side of the river. We accompanied Count Stürmer on a visit of ceremony to the resident Pasha, preceded by a few poor, half-starved looking soldiers, with drums and fifes, and with the sound of a salute from the few small cannon of the fort ringing in our ears. The echo among the surrounding rocky heights was very curious. First, it

442

OLD ORSOVA-MEHADIA-WALLACHIAN PEASANTRY.

was like a loud peal of thunder; then it was carried off to a distance, so as to be scarcely audible; again it returned, and rumbled on till the next gun was fired. In about another hour we reached Old Orsova, which is the frontier town of the Austrian dominions, and where we were destined to perform a sort of brief quarantine. Immediately on landing we were all conducted to the Lazaretto, and made the best of it; it was but for a night and part of the next day. They who have endured a Turkish quarantine will be little disposed to complain of an Austrian one. Thanks to the kind Count Stürmer for a considerable diminution of disagreeables.

Early on the following morning we were waited on by certain official personages, whose business it was to examine our baggage, passports, &c. They performed their duty with as little inconvenience to us as possible, and furnished us with the proper certificates of having submitted to the quarantine and other regulations. Once more in Europe, we thus became again subject to the annoyance of passports and other matters of police-an unwelcome change for us who had passed from Alexandria to Sinai-from Sinai to Beershebafrom Beersheba almost to Dan, with as much unrestraint as we are accustomed to in our own free country. Being again at liberty, we enjoyed a delightful day's excursion to Mehadiathe Matlock (I may so call it), of Hungary; for certainly it bears great resemblance to that lovely place of resort in England. Mehadia is celebrated for its mineral springs. It lies just within the border of Hungary-that border which separates it from Wallachia. The drive from Old Orsora occupied about three hours. On either side of the road, hills of great boldness and beauty, richly clothed with beech, fir, and other forest trees, and skirted by carefully cultivated vineyards, gave a great charm to the scene; while a small branch of the Danube, winding like a thread of silver by the road side, made sweet music in coursing over its rocky bed. We saw great numbers of the Wallachian peasantry. Their costume is picturesque, and their gait graceful. The

WALLACHIAN PEASANTRY, VILLAGES, ETC.

443

women (often very comely) wear a great quantity of hair braided in bands and twisted round the head, to which they commonly add the ornament of natural flowers. I frequently observed that the hair was of various colours; and on enquiry, was informed that a peculiar and very ancient custom prevails, in compliance with which a woman of the present day usually wears the hair of several generations mingled with her own, her mother's, grandmother's, and great grandmother's which on their decease descends in the way of natural inheritance. The peasantry appear to be a cleanly, industrious, and happy people, and most respectful in their behaviour to strangers. The Wallachian villages are very picturesque in their situation, and graceful in their appearance-partaking frequently of the Swiss character. It was delightful again to see the spires of Christian churches peeping up amidst the masses of fine foliage. The roofs of the houses, churches, and cottages are mostly covered with wood, cut in the form of slates or tiles, and fastened with nails to the rafters. The usual mode. of travelling, among the humbler inhabitants of Wallachia, is in heavy carts or waggons rudely constructed with poles, and drawn by oxen of a handsome breed. We returned to Orsova by the same route, after spending a delightful and happy day; and made preparations for resuming our journey by land towards Drencova-a distance occupying about ten hours, for the purpose of avoiding some dangerous rapids in the Danube.

September eleventh.-I was awakened at five o'clock this morning by the sound of the early bells announcing the opening of the sabbath. Their tones forcibly reminded me of my own, and increased in my heart a desire which almost grew into impatience, for the time when I should again enjoy sabbath ordinances with my beloved flock. I was very unwilling to renew my journey on the Lord's day, but it could not be avoided. We started soon after eight o'clock, and proceeded by a fine new road along the banks of the Danube, in many parts cut out of the bold rock, and con

444

DRENCOVA-SEMLIN-PETERWARDEN.

structed at the sole expense of Count Zichini-a large-hearted and munificent Hungarian nobleman, who seeks in every way to improve the state of his country. This celebrated road is most substantially made, and finished upon the principle of the macadamized roads of England. The scenery of the whole route was magnificent, and often drew from us all the strongest expressions of delight. On the opposite side of the river are still to be seen the remains of the road or causeway formed by the Emperor Trajan-a work of immense labour and boldness. On reaching Drencova, we were compelled to croud altogether in one small hotel for the night, in order to be ready for recommencing our Danube navagation on the following morning. The only person who was really annoyed by the inconveniences to which we were exposed, was a fussy Frenchman, who seemed both by temper and habits but ill calculated for roughing it up the Danube. What a pity that people who cannot put up with traveller's fare, do not keep quiet at home. Certainly the whole scene at Drencova was very comic; and I dare say our friends and fellow travellers have had many a laugh over it. The adventures of travellers are often wondrously amusing; and the shifts to which they are obliged to submit, especially in such a country as this, make them increase their estimate of the comforts and conveniences of home.

Once more upon the Danube-we anchored for a few hours at Semlin, and with a fine view of Belgrade, the position of which is bold and commanding. The mosques and minarets are sufficient proofs of its continued subjection to the Turkish domination. Beyond the city of Belgrade, we could just descry the white tents of a party of Servian insurgents then under arms. We next touched at Peterwarden, but not so as to make any particular observation; and then for two days proceeded, without any object of interest whatever, between the flat shores formed by the extensive plains of Hungary. But for our delightful companionship on board, it would have been a dreary time indeed.

THE DANUBE-PESTH AND BUDA.

445

September sixteenth.-By five o'clock this morning, we reached Pesth-the modern capital of Hungary, where we spent the whole day agreeably enough. Pesth, and Buda the ancient capital, when viewed as parts of one picture, form a bold and interesting scene. Pesth has a fine esplanade to the water's edge, flanked by a noble range of hotels, and several public buildings upon a large scale. On the opposite side of the river is Buda, occupying a commanding elevation, and approached from Pesth by a bridge of boats. The highest point is occupied by the palace of the Viceroy, the uncle of the present Emperor of Austria. Soon after breakfast we visited the cathedral. It is in very good taste. The nave is constructed without the usual pillars, and supported by pillasters in the walls. The choir is upheld by columns in the form of nave-pillars, of dove-coloured marble, with gilt capitals. It is not separated from the nave by any screen; and its effect is lightness itself, and undoubted elegance. The demeanour of the assembled congregation was worthy a better form of christianity.

There is a bold suspension bridge in process of erectionsaid to be the largest ever undertaken, for the purpose of permanently connecting Pesth and Buda. It was commenced about four years ago; and by this time, I presume, the foundations of the piers may be completed. The architect or engineer, is Mr. Clarke, an Englishman. The estimate for this spirited undertaking is said to be £300,000. While engaged in examining the work, Count Stürmer presented us to Count Zichini-the munificent Hungarian to whom I have already referred. His appearance and manners were those of a thoroughly bred, intelligent man-full of energy and force. He conversed briefly with us in English, with perfect facility. The English language is much cultivated in Hungary, and English literature is highly esteemed. We afterwards walked through the principal parts of the city, which gives proof of being the capital of an improving country. Perhaps the effect of it might be a little heightened, by its strong contrast to the scenes we had so long been familiar with. Pesth is well supplied with excellent shops, furnished apparently with