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down the coast, and continue along the West Coast of Africa. At three o'clock, we were about opposite Oporto. Being now pretty well, and the weather fine, it is pleasant sailing along at the rate of 120 miles per day, being able to read, write, or work, as best suits
inclination. 30th. First day. This has been spent more like a Sabbath than any previous. The day, has been unusually well adapted to the occasion. The captain read a sermon to the men as before, and then a prayer and thanksgiving after a storm. I have been along to the men this evening, and have read the 25th chapter of Matthew to them. They received me kindly. One of them exhibited considerable acquaintance with the scriptures. They have manifested much apathy with regard to religious subjects. Several of them refused to come to the reading this afternoon, alleging that they must employ their time in washing or mending their clothes: but it is quite evident that the true reason is an aversion to the consideration of religious subjects.
“We have had a dry deck to-day for the first time since leaving Shields.
“Twelfth Month 31st. Saw Lisbon rock, distant about twenty miles. The sun dipped below the horizon about twelve minutes before five o'clock, making the day nine hours and thirty-six minutes long in the last day of the year. There is half-an-hour of good twilight after sun-set.
“1839. First Month 1st. We have nearly reached our greatest southern latitude, and want a change of wind.
4th. A fair wind this morning, which soon brought us within sight of land. I admired the boldness of the rugged hills on both sides of the Straits. On the African side we had the Atlas mountains patched with snow. Nearer we had a chain of hills, with the town of Tangiers. On the European side is Cape Trafalgar, with the bay
where the sanguinary battle was fought. The next object of interest was the old Spanish town of Tariffa. We could discern the inhabitants.
6th. First day. I endeavoured to spend the day in a devotional manner, and have been mercifully favoured to experience a little of the light of His countenance, whom to know is life eternal. Have been instructed this evening by reading “William Law on the Spirit of Prayer." Gave a few tracts to the men, but have deeply to lament that I can do so little for them; sunk as they appear to be in forgetfulness of God. May He graciously turn their hearts to the one way of salvation through our Lord Jesus Christ.
“ First Month 14th. Put into the harbour of Toulon, to wait for a fair wind. We have come past Marseilles, to which place we were bound, but could not make the port.
-15th. I have been twice on shore to-day. My first impressions of France are very favourable.
"— 17th. I am learning the language rapidly, and can ask for any thing I want: but on other subjects I am rather at a loss.
20th. This is the first Sabbath I have spent in France, and I must confess myself shocked at the total want of the religious observance of it. Business as usual in the morning, and vanity fair, music, and foolery in the afternoon.”
The following extracts from one of his letters, on reaching Marseilles, will be perused with interest:
“Marseilles, Second Month, 1839. “ Here I am arrived at Marseilles at last. I landed at Toulon, and came here by diligence. In coming across the Gulph of Lyons, the wind droye us too much to the eastward, and we could not make our port: and as the nights
were very stormy, and the wind continued from the west and north-west, the captain put into Toulon, to wait a favourable change, where he remained three or four days.
"I was desirous of seeing the city, and of landing there; but felt a good deal of hesitation, as I did not know how far I might be able to make myself understood ; and I had no letters of introduction to persons there, which might have materially smoothed the
way for me. After considering the matter, I took courage, and resolved to venture, and cast myself amongst strangers, speaking to them a strange language, and being alone. I did so; and succeeded beyond my most sanguine expectation ; and think I never enjoyed myself so much as the first week I was in France. Every thing was new and interesting to me. The only drawback seemed to be, that I had too much pleasure. I was too much interested; too many ideas crowded upon my imagination; and for a few nights I slept badly. The change was so great from the ship, where we could see nothing but the blue sky over our heads, and the sun pursuing his daily course, and the blue waters under our feet, varied only by the ripple or spray made by the motion of the vessel; and, perhaps, once a-day, a sail in the horizon -and, with the aid of the glass, and straining our eyes a little, we could make out the important fact of whether she was a schooner or a brig. Here we could scarcely catch a new idea, or improve an old one, that had not been resolved in the mind twenty times before.
“To be suddenly transplanted from such a situation, and landed in a foreign country, where all was new: the houses, the streets, the people, the language, the shops, the ships, the cafes, the fields, the mules, the goats, the bells, the priests, the soldiers, the sailors, the rocks, the plants, nay, every thing was new and strange. The effect was, as it were, electrical; and ideas crowded upon the mind so much
faster than they could be digested, that it kept up a continued excitement, and high state of enjoyment; seeing as much in an hour, as would reasonably supply subjects for contemplation for half a-day; it was quite impossible to arrange all the thoughts in the day time, and par consequence, they encroached upon the night. It reminded me of a clock that has lost its pendulum, or a watch its balance,-it ticks so much faster than it ought to do.
“As this was the case, I found it necessary to avoid too much of it. By this and other precautions, and the lapse of a little time, I begin now to resume my usual tone, and have had the enjoyment of several good nights' rest.
“From Toulon I went to Hyeres, distant about twelve miles ; a place often recommended for invalids. Immediately behind the town is a hill, up which I climbed, to have a view. It is little more than one solid rock, with a small portion of soil upon it. Notwithstanding the paucity of soil, it is cultivated to the very top; chiefly for the more hardy vegetables, such as beans and corn. Where too stony for crops, it is overgrown by wild plants; and would be a rich treat for the botanist, &c. From the hill
, the prospect is most delightful. There is the sea, with the Hyere islands at the distance of a few leagues, and vessels of various sizes passing along, seen for a considerable extent of coast. The town immediately underneath, with the champaign or level country stretching out, and planted with the orange, the vine, the fig, and the olive. On the other side again, there are hills beyond hills, beautifully clothed with verdure, and planted with various kinds of firs and other trees, of which I know not the names ; altogether, it is one of the most interesting spots that I ever visited, and afforded me great pleasure; and had I not been obliged to come here for my letters, I should certainly have stayed there some time.
“The aspect of the country all the way from Toulon to Hyeres, and thence hither, is hilly. Toulon is surrounded with hills, much of it is cultivated in terraces. The vine appears to be the principal crop, with ridges of wheat between the rows, which are either double or treble. The olives are planted round the fields, or so as not to prevent the growth of the vine. The olive is a graceful looking tree, rather resembling a pear tree in growth, and a laburnum in leaf. The land appears to be divided into small lots; and on each of them is a neat stone-coloured house, with green Venetian blinds. They look quite like villas, standing as they do a little distance apart, and with the olive and other trees interspersed; the whole has the appearance of a garden, with their neat looking cottages in the midst. Compared with our hinds or small farm houses, these look greatly superior: much more of the appearance both of comfort and ornament. On every hand, we see evidences that this is indeed a south land; and what is more, it abounds with springs of water; indeed, at Toulon, I think the abundance of water pleased me more than any thing else. There are a great many public fountains in the streets and squares, ornamented with curious or elegant devices, all spouting out water, clear as crystal, and the waste water runs down the streets in streams, and must tend very greatly to the cleanliness, coolness, and healthiness of the city. Most of them are covered with moss, and several have beautiful jets, &c., &c.
“First Month 21st. To-day I went to Marseilles, and, immediately on arrival, to the post-office, where I found three letters, &c., waiting for me; these were truly acceptable, and it was most gratifying to have good accounts from home. I was astonished to find myself overcome, even to tears, by the emotion they produced. In reading the expressions of sympathy and kind interest of my relatives,