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3rd. First day. Walked out into the city this morning. Met crowds of people going to church. I must say that to see even the superstitious observance of the Sabbath, pleased me better than the apathy that prevails in France. There is a conscientiousness in superstition; whilst infidelity is, as it were, seared with a hot iron.
“ - 9th. Arrived at Florence, my spirits greatly depressed from a variety of causes."
10th. First day. Walked by the river-side this afternoon, and sought retirement in my chamber for an hour or two in the middle of the day ; but have felt much devoid of spiritual comfort, though earnestly sought after. In the Lord's time, I trust it will be graciously sent for my consolation.
12th. Started this morning for Pisa, and had the mortification to be turned back at the gate for a defect in my passport. I had got the signature of the office at the city palace, as good for Leghorn and Rome, and thought all was right; but it now appears that other signatures are necessary : of this I had no conception, as Leghorn, Pisa, and Florence, are all in the same Grand Dukedom. To add to my difficulty, the signature of the British Consul could not be obtained till twelve o'clock, too late for me to get forward to-day. I have seen the time when I could have borne this trial of patience with a degree of philosophy: but my feelings have been so much depressed for some time past, arising, I believe, from my complaint, that this trial affected me rather too deeply. There were some objects of interest in Florence, which I had omitted to see, but I could not muster resolution. I tried at one place, but could not enjoy it. I found a solitary walk by the sea-side, and a recourse to prayer, the best means of calming my troubled spirit. I now begin to feel very desirous of being at home again. My complaint seems far from
being cured, if it has not taken deeper hold. May I so employ my time, as to be prepared for the final change ; as I cannot but look to the possibility, not to say probability, of its taking place at no very distant period.
- Third Month 13th. To Pisa to-day. Pleasant company and fine weather. Ascended the far-famed leaning tower. Although out of the perpendicular, it is a very pleasing structure.
16th. Embarked for Civitta Vecchia. Too much wind, afraid to venture out.
17th. Held my meeting at a hotel, to little sensible benefit.
18th. Arrived at Civitta Vecchia, about eleven o'clock, but passports, senatory regulations, &c., put us too late to reach Rome that night. Was truly glad to receive letters from home, giving a good account, being the first I have received for six weeks. It gave me unspeakable pleasure, the more so, as I did not expect them at this place. Enjoyed a solitary walk by the sea, reading, and thinking of home affairs.
“ Third Month 19th. Had a pleasant ride to Rome, with two Englishmen, two Americans, and an agreeable young Frenchman. Have had a hasty view of St. Peter's and of the city, from an elevated spot. I could not help reflecting, as I beheld the now limited size of this once great city,
How is the mighty fallen !' Still there is enough left to make it be justly regarded as one of the most interesting cities of the world. Amongst the places I inspected, whilst in Rome, was a dark, damp dungeon, where, it is said, the A postles Peter and Paul were imprisoned. I saw, also, the palace of Nero, from whence it is said, he looked out to see the city in flames. It has been recently excavated, and laid open to view.
24th. First day. Employed in reading, writing, and retirement in ny chamber. A walk in the evening.”
About this time, he writes, in reference to his late trials, " I have had some serious thoughts respecting my complaint, and as to whether I should live to see the termination of another year, sensible that I am loudly called on to seek to be prepared for the great change. Found some little comfort in remembering, that · Whom the Lord loveth, he chasteneth ;-and if we endure not chastening, then are we not sons. But even these considerations were inadequate to restore the tone of my troubled mind. I believe the principal cause of these feelings was the change of atmosphere, the state of my nerves, with pulse 90 to 100, with the fatigue, &c., of land-travelling in a foreign country, with so imperfect a knowledge of the language, especially of the Italian.
“I feel now like a child, who had fallen down-and after a good cry, brightens up again, laughs heartily, and forgets his sorrows. I have now English and American society, and am in quite as good spirits as I would desire to be. I have to-day been seeing some of the finest statuary in the world, at the Museum. The dying gladiator is beyond all praise. The attitude and expression of countenance are so impressed upon the inanimate marble, that it strongly excites feelings of commiseration. There are a number of ancient busts of emperors and philosophers, as Julius Cæsar, Caligula, Adrian, Marcus Aurelian, Septimus Severus, and Maximus, Virgil, Seneca, Plato, Diogenes, Archimedes, Demosthenes, and Socrates. It is wonderful what skill the ancients possessed in these arts; and in what a perfect state some of their works have been preserved to the present day.
“ It is said, that the remains of the Apostle Peter are buried under the immense fabric, 448 feet in height, which now bears his name. It is a magnificent edifice. The quantity of ornament is prodigious; but, in my opinion, ill be fitting a place of Christian worship.”
Whilst at Rome, he felt inclined to see the objects which usually interest travellers in that splendid city, and to visit some of the monuments of her ancient greatness, as well as those of Papal superstition, by which she is still distinguished. He was warned before leaving home to be careful to give no countenance, under whatever circumstances he might happen to be placed, to the idolatrous or superstitious usages which are known to exist in countries where the Roman Catholic religion prevails. To take off his hat in places which were superstitiously regarded as holy, he knew would be wrong, and, therefore, he denied himself the gratification which he might otherwise have enjoyed, believing that his curiosity should not be gratified, at the expense of his peace of conscience. On one occasion, however, being with some other young men, surveying the exterior of the building, called St. Peter's Cathedral, and declining to enter the interior with them, one of his companions took off his hat, and he was persuaded to compromise his testimony. But, when in the cool of the day, in his evening retirement, he was concerned to examine the actions of the day, and to bring them to the light, that it might be seen whether they were wrought in God, he saw that he had been unfaithful, though in what to many is a small matter, and he was deeply humbled under a sense of his transgression.
From Rome he proceeded to Naples, visited the remains of Herculaneum, and some other objects of interest, in this crowded and populous city; and then proceeded to Malta. We will give another extract from his journal :
“Fourth Month 7th. Arrived at Malta late last night. Getting to an English colony, and once more handling shillings and sixpences, seems almost like home again. After breakfast, walked out to see the fortifications. The nfternoon was spent in retirement, in my own room ; and
I trust, though deeply sensible of my unworthiness, I have been favoured to derive some edification.
"Fourth Month 9th. Agreed with the captain of the Mazeppa, for a passage to London.
11th. Veletta, the capital of Malta, stands upon a hill; many of the streets are so precipitous, that they are composed of steps, like stairs, which render many of them almost impassable for carriages. The town was clean and neat, which was particularly pleasing, after witnessing the filthiness of some of those in Italy.
"I am now reminded of a remark I have heard in England, that our countrymen abroad, when they meet, are always talking about the quality of their dinners, and the prices at the hotels. I do not think I have heard more of this than might be expected, but have myself felt how much the constant change from house to house, and the necessary precautions against imposture, tends to cherish a disposition to dwell on these subjects. Add to this, the change of currency as you pass from one state to anotherthe almost unavoidable consequence is considerable thought upon these engrossing and comparatively low topics ; I have at times felt it to an unpleasant degree without seeing how to avoid it. Whilst due attention to economy is proper and laudable,—to be constantly thinking about pauls, scudiis, and carolinis, is inconsistent with a mind upon
those objects which are alone worthy of our primary affections. "I called upon the agent of the Bible Society at Malta.
a German, and appeared to be a humble-minded serious man ; but more like a man of study than one who has much intercourse with the world. He received me very kindly as a friend of the Society, but they do not appear to have much more to do here than transmitting the books to other stations. He says, in the modern Greek