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Whilst at Rome, he felt inclined to see the objects which usually interest travellers in that splendid city, and to visit some of the monuments of her ancient greatness, as well as those of Papal superstition, by which she is still distinguished. He was warned before leaving home to be careful to give no countenance, under whatever circumstances he might happen to be placed, to the idolatrous or superstitious usages which are known to exist in countries where the Roman Catholic religion prevails. To take off his hat in places which were superstitiously regarded as holy, he knew would be wrong, and, therefore, he denied himself the gratification which he might otherwise have enjoyed, believing that his curiosity should not be gratified, at the expense of his peace of conscience. On one occasion, however, being with some other young men, surveying the exterior of the building, called St. Peter's Cathedral, and declining to enter the interior with them, one of his companions took off his hat, and he was persuaded to compromise his testimony. But, when in the cool of the day, in his evening retirement, he was concerned to examine the actions of the day, and to bring them to the light, that it might be seen whether they were wrought in God, he saw that he had been unfaithful, though in what to many is a small matter, and he was deeply humbled under a sense of his transgression.
From Rome he proceeded to Naples, visited the remains of Herculaneum, and some other objects of interest, in this crowded and populous city; and then proceeded to Malta. We will give another extract from his journal :
“Fourth Month 7th. Arrived at Malta late last night. Getting to an English colony, and once more handling shillings and sixpences, seems almost like home again. After breakfast, walked out to see the fortifications. The afternoon was spent in retirement, in my own room; and
I trust, though deeply sensible of my unworthiness, I have been favoured to derive some edification.
“ Fourth Month 9th. Agreed with the captain of the Mazeppa, for a passage to London.
“—llth. Veletta, the capital of Malta, stands upon a hill; many of the streets are so precipitous, that they are composed of steps, like stairs, which render many of them almost impassable for carriages. The town was clean and neat, which was particularly pleasing, after witnessing the filthiness of some of those in Italy.
"I am now reminded of a remark I have heard in England, that our countrymen abroad, when they meet, are always talking about the quality of their dinners, and the prices at the hotels. I do not think I have heard more of this than might be expected, but have myself felt how much the constant change from house to house, and the necessary precautions against imposture, tends to cherish a disposition to dwell on these subjects. Add to this, the change of currency as you pass from one state to anotherthe almost unavoidable consequence is considerable thought upon these engrossing and comparatively low topics; I have at times felt it to an unpleasant degree without seeing how to avoid it. Whilst due attention to economy is proper and laudable,—to be constantly thinking about pauls, scudiis, and carolinis, is inconsistent with a mind fixed
upon those objects which are alone worthy of our primary affections.
“I called upon the agent of the Bible Society at Malta. He is a German, and appeared to be a humble-minded serious man ; but more like a man of study than one who has much intercourse with the world. He received me very kindly as a friend of the Society, but they do not appear to have much more to do here than transmitting the books to other stations. He says, in the modern Greek
there are good openings; the people are anxious for instruction, and a spirit of inquiry is prevalent. In the Italian states, the way is very much shut up, and nearly as much so on this island.
The editor of a newspaper is now imprisoned by a British government, for the small offence of having called the Roman Catholic Church 'an abominable system.' A few years ago, the government would not allow the New Testament to be used in the schools, but the restriction is now removed. The conditions on which the English took possession of the island has been the plea for these proceedings.
“ Fourth Month 14th. Distributed a few of my remaining religious tracts, amongst the English ships-was in some cases cordially and in others coldly received, but hope some little benefit may result. Was graciously owned by the Father of Mercies, in my meeting in the afternoon ; feeling a renewed confidence that, however unprofitable, I am one of his servants.
“— 16th. Took my luggage on board, expecting to sail. Found as passengers, an officer's wife, with her three children. I was glad to find her a professor of religion. 17th. Sailed out of the harbour; had a brisk wind in our favour.
19th. Becalmed all day. The sea smooth, so that we have recovered our appetite, and can read ; but still, as is usual in such cases, time feels long, and hangs rather heavy on our hands; this feeling ought not to be encouraged; so precious a gift should not be thus lightly esteemed ; may we rather endeavour so to occupy and improve it, as to be able to render up our accounts with joy, and not with grief.
“Fourth Month 21st. First day. I regret to say this day has been far from satisfactorily spent. No kind of religious service on board, and scarcely any recognition of its being the Sabbath, with so much noise and distraction as to render
private retirement next to impossible. Beside this, I had to mourn over one transgression, in the middle of the day; and, in the evening, during a discussion on the subject of war, I carried it on in a too confident spirit; my fellowpassenger saw, and very properly rebuked, the arrogant tone which I had assumed.
24th. The north coast of Africa in sight-a fine breeze-running eight or nine knots per hour, until the evening. About ten o'clock the wind suddenly took the sails right a-back, when the ship would not answer the helm; which occasioned a great noise. There was also the sound of water washing over the deck; the whole coming so unexpectedly, caused no small trepidation to my fellowpassenger and her children. She very properly betook herself to prayer, and to reading the Scriptures, in which I was glad to join, endeavouring to sympathise with her, though I was convinced there was no real danger.
29th. First day. Not spent to much more edification than the last; but we read a chapter aloud in the evening, in the cabin, I think to some profit."
Our voyagers entered the Straits of Gibraltar on the Ist of Fifth Month, but the current being strong, and the wind also contrary, they were detained in the bay about eighteen days. Whilst here, it was evident that the disease, under which this dear invalid was suffering, was making insidious progress. It is probable that a cold which he took, by getting wet through, in an unexpected heavy shower of rain, whilst surveying this celebrated rock, accelerated its course. Of this he appeared very sensible. In his journal we find these remarks :
“Fifth Month 14th. On going ashore this afternoon, was thrown into a violent fever, by a very moderate walk in the sun. My pulse rose to 120. From a return and continuance of my cough, and one or two other symptoms,
white beans; of which last, three-pence worth will dine & family. Their clothes are rather coarse, but whole and clean. They appeared to be an industrious people. The goverment takes great pains for their education ; but the people are careless.
“Religion appears low, as indicated by the thin attendance at the places of Worship, especially of men,-the neglect of the Sabbath, and paucity of books. Hospitals
“ Houses are good, many of them four stories high, with Venetian blinds, earthenware floors, lofty rooms, windows, many of them down to the floor, but not air tight. It is next to impossible to warm the rooms. The towns are walleds, ometimes treble.
“I was disappointed in Montpelier ; but there is a splendid elevated square, laid out with walks and shrubberies, handsomely ornamented with sculpture, with a bronze colossal statue of Louis XIV. The aqueduct is an imposing piece of masonry, with two tiers of arches, upwards of 200 in number. The reservoir is beautiful.
“Aix, in Provence, is celebrated for a powerful thermal spring of mineral water. I took a bath : the thermometer 92.
“On arrival at Nice, I soon found that I had entered another kingdom. I was taken with my trunk to the policeoffice, where they demanded if I had any books. Of these they took possession, not even allowing me the dictionary to assist me in the language. It was not until the English Consul had been in person at the office, and made out a list of them, to be sent round to the inspectors appointed by the clergy, that I could get them again. I felt it very unpleasant, especially as I had three Italian Testaments; but these escaped their notice. I was taken to the office without being allowed to wash, or take any refreshment, though just coming off a journey, in which the diligence only stopped