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twice for meals, in the thirty-five hours: but fortunately, I had stopped over night half way, or it might have been worse. I had to go five times to the police-office, and twice to the English Consul's.
“Nice is a spreading town, very airy, with abundance of accommodation, at moderate rates. There are a great many English and fashionable people. The city is hemmed in by hills, except toward the sea, which is an unfailing source of interest. Nice appears to be a desirable place for residence, excepting for the hills, which limit the walks of debilitated persons.
"Many persons speak a little English in Italy, more than in the south of France, and more still speak French. I have not much difficulty in obtaining any thing I want, but cannot easily maintain a conversation, especially with strangers; and I find a great difference in persons, some may
be understood much easier than others.
“The further south, the more rain we have had. Very few fine days since leaving Congenies. I have frequently been kept in the house by it.
“When at St. Luc, on my way from Aix, finding I was likely to have a twenty hours' ride-part of it in the night, I resolved to walk a few miles onward, arranging to have my luggage forwarded, so as to allow of my resting over
I walked sixteen miles, taking it leisurely. The day being fine, and the country interesting, I much enjoyed it. It is quite common to see laden carts upon
the roads - on First days. They work in the forenoon, windmills going, &c., much as on other days.”
Amongst the privations of continential travellers, to be precluded the exercise of public worship, in a manner consonant with their own religious views, cannot be the least. In a letter from Genoa, to his cousin, the subject of this Memoir thus describes his feelings :
“Though cut off from uniting with my friends in the performance of this religious duty (public worship) myself, for the present, I trust my Sabbaths are not altogether unprofitably spent. Happily for us, we live in a day when we know that it is not absolutely necessary for any man to say to another, “Know the Lord ;' but when we have a Teacher, who cannot be removed into a corner, and can hear a voice behind us, saying, “This is the way,
in it. Oh!
dear cousin! may we be careful to follow our Guide ; and, not trusting in our own strength, seek for ability to walk in the narrow way—that way which leads to sanctification and purity of heart. When all the pleasures of this world, beautiful as it is, sink into nothing, in comparison of the enjoyments we may expect in those heavenly mansions, prepared for the followers of the Lamb. May we, then, experience by the operation of his Holy Spirit, a preparation for an entrance therein, when it shall please him to summon us from this transitory state of existence to that which shall never have an end.
“I hope thou wilt excuse me for treating a little on things almost too high for me; but in the absence of oral intercourse, it does me good to put my thoughts down upon paper; and I believe we are both desirous of travelling in the same road; it is, perhaps, not too great presumption for one fellow-pilgrim to salute another, and wish each other "God speed.””
Journal. “ Third Month 2nd. Arrived at Genoa, after a twenty-nine hours' ride, per the mail, and finding the inn locked up, we had to rouse the waiters. I did not suffer nearly so much from fatigue as by diligence; the speed being quicker, and only four inside, it is not so depressing to the spirits. We had all to turn out, a few miles from Nice, and our luggage was more minutely inspected than mine had ever been before.
3rd. First day. Walked out into the city this morning. Met crowds of people going to church. I must say that to see even the superstitious observance of the Sabbath, pleased me better than the apathy that prevails in France. There is a conscientiousness in superstition ; whilst infidelity is, as it were, seared with a hot iron.
“ — 9th. Arrived at Florence, my spirits greatly depressed from a variety of causes.'
10th. First day. Walked by the river-side this afternoon, and sought retirement in my chamber for an hour or two in the middle of the day ; but have felt much devoid of spiritual comfort, though earnestly sought after. In the Lord's time, I trust it will be graciously sent for my
12th. Started this morning for Pisa, and had the mortification to be turned back at the gate for a defect in my passport. I had got the signature of the office at the city palace, as good for Leghorn and Rome, and thought all was right; but it now appears that other signatures are necessary : of this I had no conception, as Leghorn, Pisa, and Florence, are all in the same Grand Dukedom. To add to my difficulty, the signature of the British Consul could not be obtained till twelve o'clock, too late for me to get forward to-day. I have seen the time when I could have borne this trial of patience with a degree of philosophy: but my feelings have been so much depressed for some time past, arising, I believe, from my complaint, that this trial affected me rather too deeply. There were some objects of interest in Florence, which I had omitted to see, but I could not muster resolution. I tried at one place, but could not enjoy it. I found a solitary walk by the sea-side, and a recourse to prayer, the best means of calming my troubled spirit. I now begin to feel very desirous of being at home again. My complaint seems far from
being cured, if it has not taken deeper hold. May I so employ my time, as to be prepared for the final change ; as I cannot but look to the possibility, not to say probability, of its taking place at no very distant period,
“ Third Month 13th. To Pisa to-day. Pleasant company and fine weather. Ascended the far-famed leaning tower. Although out of the perpendicular, it is a very pleasing structure.
16th. Embarked for Civitta Vecchia. Too much wind, afraid to venture out.
17th. Held my meeting at a hotel, to little sensible benefit.
18th. Arrived at Civitta Vecchia, about eleven o'clock, but passports, senatory regulations, &c., put us too late to reach Rome that night. Was truly glad to receive letters from home, giving a good account, being the first I have received for six weeks. It gave me unspeakable pleasure, the more so, as I did not expect them at this place. Enjoyed a solitary walk by the sea, reading, and thinking of home affairs.
“ Third Month 19th. Had a pleasant ride to Rome, with two Englishmen, two Americans, and an agreeable young Frenchman. Have had a hasty view of St. Peter's and of the city, from an elevated spot. I could not help reflecting, as I beheld the now limited size of this once great city,
How is the mighty fallen !' Still there is enough left to make it be justly regarded as one of the most interesting cities of the world. Amongst the places I inspected, whilst in Rome, was a dark, damp dungeon, where, it is said, the A postles Peter and Paul were imprisoned. I saw, also, th palace of Nero, from whence it is said, he looked out to see the city in flames. It has been recently excavated, and laid open to view.
“24th. First day. Employed in reading, writing, and retirement in my chamber. A walk in the evening.”
About this time, he writes, in reference to his late trials, “I have had some serious thoughts respecting my complaint, and as to whether I should live to see the termination of another year, sensible that I am loudly called on to seek to be prepared for the great change. Found some little comfort in remembering, that “ Whom the Lord loveth, he chasteneth ;-and if we endure not chastening, then are we not sons. But even these considerations were inadequate to restore the tone of my troubled mind. I believe the principal cause of these feelings was the change of atmosphere, the state of my nerves, with pulse 90 to 100, with the fatigue, &c., of land-travelling in a foreign country, with so imperfect a knowledge of the language, especially of the Italian.
“I feel now like a child, who had fallen down—and after a good cry, brightens up again, laughs heartily, and forgets his sorrows. I have now English and American society, and am in quite as good spirits as I would desire to be. I have to-day been seeing some of the finest statuary in the world, at the Museum. The dying gladiator is beyond all praise. The attitude and expression of countenance are so impressed upon the inanimate marble, that it strongly excites feelings of commiseration. There are a number of ancient busts of emperors and philosophers, as Julius Cæsar, Caligula, Adrian, Marcus Aurelian, Septimus Severus, and Maximus, Virgil, Seneca, Plato, Diogenes, Archimedes, Demosthenes, and Socrates. It is wonderful what skill the ancients possessed in these arts; and in what a perfect state some of their works have been preerved to the present day.
"It is said, that the remains of the Apostle Peter are buried under the immense fabric, 448 feet in height, which now bears his name. It is a magnificent edifice. The quantity of ornament is prodigious; but, in my opinion, ill befitting a place of Christian worship."