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there are good openings; the people are anxious for instruction, and a spirit of inquiry is prevalent. In the Italian states, the way is very much shut up, and nearly as much so on this island. The editor of a newspaper is now imprisoned by a British government, for the small offence of having called the Roman Catholic Church "an abominable system. A few years ago, the government would not allow the New Testament to be used in the schools, but the restriction is now removed. The conditions on which the English took possession of the island has been the plea for these proceedings.
“ Fourth Month 14th. Distributed a few of my remaining religious tracts, amongst the English ships,—was in some cases cordially and in others coldly received, but hope some little benefit may result. Was graciously owned by the Father of Mercies, in my meeting in the afternoon ; feeling a renewed confidence that, however unprofitable, I am one of his servants.
"16th. Took my luggage on board, expecting to sail. Found as passengers, an officer's wife, with her three children. I was glad to find her a professor of religion. 17th. Sailed out of the harbour; had a brisk wind in our favour.
19th. Becalmed all day. The sea smooth, so that we have recovered our appetite, and can read; but still, as is usual in such cases, time feels long, and hangs rather heavy on our hands ; this feeling ought not to be encouraged; so precious a gift should not be thus lightly esteemed ; may we rather endeavour so to occupy and improve it, as to be able to render up our accounts with joy, and not with grief.
“Fourth Month 21st. First day. I regret to say this day has been far from satisfactorily spent. No kind of religious service on board, and scarcely any recognition of its being the Sabbath, with so much noise and distraction as to render
private retirement next to impossible. Beside this, I had to mourn over one transgression, in the middle of the day; and, in the evening, during a discussion on the subject of war, I carried it on in a too confident spirit; my fellowpassenger saw, and very properly rebuked, the arrogant tone which I had assumed.
24th. The north coast of Africa in sight-a fine breeze-running eight or nine knots per hour, until the evening. About ten o'clock the wind suddenly took the sails right a-back, when the ship would not answer the helm; which occasioned a great noise. There was also the sound of water washing over the deck; the whole coming 80 unexpectedly, caused no small trepidation to my fellowpassenger and her children. She very properly betook herself to prayer, and to reading the Scriptures, in which I was glad to join, endeavouring to sympathise with her, though I was convinced there was no real danger.
29th. First day. Not spent to much more edification than the last; but we read a chapter aloud in the evening, in the cabin, I think to some profit.”
Our voyagers entered the Straits of Gibraltar on the Ist of Fifth Month, but the current being strong, and the wind also contrary, they were detained in the bay about eighteen days. Whilst here, it was evident that the disease, under which this dear invalid was suffering, was making insidious progress. It is probable that a cold which he took, by getting wet through, in an unexpected heavy shower of rain, whilst surveying this celebrated rock, accelerated its course. Of this he appeared very sensible. In his journal we find these remarks :
“Fifth Month 14th. On going ashore this afternoon, was thrown into a violent fever, by a very moderate walk
My pulse rose to 120. From a return and continuance of my cough, and one or two other symptoms,
in the sun.
white beans; of which last, three-pence worth will dine a family. Their clothes are rather coarse, but whole and clean. They appeared to be an industrious people. The government takes great pains for their education ; but the people are careless.
` Religion appears low, as indicated by the thin attendance at the places of Worship, especially of men,--the neglect of the Sabbath, and paucity of books. Hospitals
“Houses are good, many of them four stories high, with Venetian blinds, earthenware floors, lofty rooms, windows, many of them down to the floor, but not air tight. It is next to impossible to warm the rooms. The towns are walleds, ometimes treble.
"I was disappointed in Montpelier; but there is a splendid elevated square, laid out with walks and shrubberies, handsomely ornamented with sculpture, with a bronze colossal statue of Louis XIV. The aqueduct is an imposing piece of masonry, with two tiers of arches, upwards of 200 in number. The reservoir is beautiful.
Aix, in Provence, is celebrated for a powerful thermal spring of mineral water. I took a bath : the thermometer 92.
“On arrival at Nice, I soon found that I had entered another kingdom. I was taken with my trunk to the policeoffice, where they demanded if I had any books. Of these they took possession, not even allowing me the dictionary to assist me in the language. It was not until the English Consul had been in person at the office, and made out a list of them, to be sent round to the inspectors appointed by the clergy, that I could get them again. I felt it very unpleasant, especially as I had three Italian Testaments; but these escaped their notice. I was taken to the office without being allowed to wash, or take any refreshment, though just coming off a journey, in which the diligence only stopped
twice for meals, in the thirty-five hours: but fortunately, I had stopped over night half way, or it might have been worse. I had to go five times to the police-office, and twice to the English Consul's.
“Nice is a spreading town, very airy, with abundance of accommodation,
moderate rates. There are a great many English and fashionable people. The city is hemmed in by hills, except toward the sea, which is an unfailing source of interest. Nice appears to be a desirable place for residence, excepting for the hills, which limit the walks of debilitated persons.
“Many persons speak a little English in Italy, more than in the south of France, and more still speak French. I have not much difficulty in obtaining any thing I want, but cannot easily maintain a conversation, especially with strangers; and I find a great difference in persons, some may be understood much easier than others.
"The further south, the more rain we have had. Very few fine days since leaving Congenies. I have frequently been kept in the house by it.
“When at St. Luc, on my way from Aix, finding I was likely to have a twenty hours' ride-part of it in the night, I resolved to walk a few miles onward, arranging to have my luggage forwarded, so as to allow of my resting over First day. I walked sixteen miles, taking it leisurely. The day being fine, and the country interesting, I much enjoyed it.
It is quite common to see laden carts upon the roads - on First days. They work in the forenoon, windmills going, &c., much as on other days.”
Amongst the privations of continential travellers, to be precluded the exercise of public worship, in a manner consonant with their own religious views, cannot be the least. In a letter from Genoa, to his cousin, the subject of this Memoir thus describes his feelings :
“Though cut off from uniting with my friends in the performance of this religious duty (public worship) myself, for the present, I trust my Sabbaths are not altogether unprofitably spent. Happily for us, we live in a day when we know that it is not absolutely necessary for any man to say to another, ‘Know the Lord;' but when we have a Teacher, who cannot be removed into a corner, and can hear a voice behind us, saying, “This is the way, walk ye
in it.' Oh! my dear cousin! may we be careful to follow our Guide; and, not trusting in our own strength, seek for ability to walk in the narrow way—that way which leads to sanctification and purity of heart. When all the pleasures of this world, beautiful as it is, sink into nothing, in comparison of the enjoyments we may expect in those heavenly mansions, prepared for the followers of the Lamb. May we, then, experience by the operation of his Holy Spirit, a preparation for an entrance therein, when it shall please him to summon us from this transitory state of existence to that which shall never have an end.
“I hope thou wilt excuse me for treating a little on things almost too high for me ; but in the absence of oral intercourse, it does me good to put my thoughts down upon paper; and I believe we are both desirous of travelling in the same road; it is, perhaps, not too great presumption for one fellow-pilgrim to salute another, and wish each other God speed.””
Journal. “Third Month 2nd. Arrived at Genoa, after a twenty-nine hours' ride, per the mail, and finding the inn locked up, we had to rouse the waiters. I did not suffer nearly so much from fatigue as by diligence; the speed being quicker, and only four inside, it is not so depressing to the spirits. We had all to turn out, a few miles from Nice, and our luggage was more minutely inspected than mine had ever been before.