"By what route have you come to Egypt?"

ces. Troubled by no scruples of conscience, he | myself by his side, my companions after me, and avails himself of all means to accomplish his ob- a dragoman took his position in front. I now give jects. When the powerful body of the Mamelukes literally the conversation. He said to me, placed themselves in the way of his progress, he hesitated not, but by one fatal blow he extinguished the race. History records no more cold-blooded butchery; Machiavel never conceived a perfidy more profound than that which characterised this proceeding. Such was the man I now proposed to see and converse with face to face.

I replied By the way of Damietta from Syria." "Have you been long in this country?” "Between two and three weeks. I proceeded from Damietta to Cairo through a beautiful and interesting country. I have been much gratified in seeing a land so attractive from its fertility, its history and its antiquities."

"What has been your object?"

66

This is true," he said, with apparent satisfac

When I arrived at Cairo, I informed Mr. Glyddon, our Consul, of my wishes on this subject, and he forthwith wrote to Mr. Todd, the Vice-Consul "We have heard much in America of the proat Alexandria, and requested him to make such gress of this country in civilization and regeneraarrangements if possible, that I might have an in- tion under the auspices of your Highness. I was terview the day of my arrival. This was neces-anxious to see this advancement." He bowed sary as I anticipated that I should not be able to with great courtesy and said "he did not aspire so remain more than three or four hours in this city. high as to be the regenerator of Egypt." I replied, Mr. Todd had informed Bognas Bay, the Prime" Your Highness has certainly produced great Minister, of my anxiety to enjoy the honor of a changes in this country. One may now travel from presentation to his Highness, and he requested that the Mediterranean to Sennar with as much secuwhen I arrived it should be immediately made rity as in any country in the world.” known to him. I reached Alexandria at ten at night and sent to Mr. Todd to inform him, wishing to ensure a presentation in the morning. He "And the great works which have been consent to the Minister, but the messenger found him structed have restored Egypt to its ancient ferin bed. In the morning he sent again at an early tility. America now feels her influence in the hour, but being indisposed the premier did not rise markets of the world as a formidable rival in the until half past nine. All this haste was important, as sale of cotton." the Pasha does not receive after twelve. At length, To this he responded, "It is nothing—a drop in at half past eleven, I was waited on by the nephew the ocean. Have you locusts in America?" of his Excellency, Bognas Bay, with many apolo- "We have, but not in such numbers as to do any gies and regrets on his part, that sickness prevent-injury. They appear to have been destructive ed his calling in person, and was informed that his Highness would receive me at any time before twelve.

tion.

here this season.'

"No, as soon as they appeared I had them destroyed. There are none left; but for this, they would have done much injury."

As soon as a carriage could be prepared we started, the Consul, the nephew, my companion and myself. This was true. With his usual energy he had When we arrived at the palace it was past twelve. declared war upon the locusts and occupied his The Pasha had given a grand reception that morn- troops with the conflict. They were engaged ing, his son Ibrahim having just arrived; but all had many days in killing them. Besides, he gave dispersed. The nephew said he would go in, leaving premium to the Fellahs for all they destroyed. The us in the carriage, and see if it were then possible result was, the enormous swarms which were layto get in. He returned in a moment and informed us ing waste the country in all directions, were soon that his Highness would receive us. We imme- exterminated. I saw the effects of their ravages, diately entered, saw two or three waiters about the but the locusts themselves had disappeared. Even door, but no soldiers, and passed into a large hall. the garden of Ibrahim Pasha, on the island of Here the Lord Chamberlain, or Maitre de Cere- Roda near Cairo, had suffered from them severely, monies came out to meet us. To him Mr. Todd a number of the trees having been killed. announced our names, and we advanced to the He then remarked "that rats were the greatest door of a large apartment and there in the centre foes to their agriculture, that it was not possible of the room, stood the remarkable man we sought. to destroy them; that they were born of the earth;; We bowed ourselves into his presence with the that he had seen one in the process of transition three bows usually given to royalty. He received when one half was rat and the other half earth us graciously after the European manner, not ma- I looked surprised, doubting if I understood il king the Turkish salutations. In a moment after, interpreter correctly, for he spoke French and he motioned to the divan, inviting us to a seat, and very well. The Pasha then emphatically repeated preceding, seated himself in a corner, where an what he had said, the interpreter announcing de ornamented cloth, wrought in gold, was thrown tinctly "une moitie rat et une moitie terre." As over, as it seemed to designate his place. I placed he had seen it himself, it was of course no longer

to be doubted. I remarked that in going from excavated for the purpose of irrigation, astonish Cairo to the pyramids I had seen great numbers the voyager. The river is gay with picturesque coming out from the crevices of the earth. These boats floating on its surface, many devoted to pleaare the cracks in the soil caused by the process of sure, but the greater number laden with the rich drying after the inundation has retired. He asked imports and exports of the country. In the ports, if we had them in America. I said not that spe- ships are seen from every clime and a busy comcies, (to wit, those born of the earth.) merce meets you on the wharves. In the cities, Coffee had been brought and drunk. Conversa- long lines of camels, the ships of the desert as tion now flagged. I was at a loss to know whether Napoleon called them, following each other in Inpipes were coming or not. Having remained suffi- dian file, bringing to market the productions of the ciently long, as I thought, I took my leave. interior, attract the attention of the stranger. I had a good opportunity of examining the coun- The traveller from Turkey is struck with the entenance and general appearance of the Pasha. tire change in the habits of the population. The His eye is acute and rapid in its movements; in pipe is no longer the business of life. Though color a glittering black and indicative of great in- still enjoyed as a luxury, it is not the engrossing telligence. The general expression of his face is occupation. Existence is no longer expended in good-humored-nothing which would indicate a puffs of smoke. A busy industry is seen on all savage or sanguinary disposition. The murderer sides. Farmers, artisans, soldiers, men of state of the Mamelukes is not seen in his visage. The are all pressing on with an activity and perseverforehead I could not see, as it was covered by his turban, but I am told that it is high and good. His person is short and corpulent, and the whole appearance that of perfect health, though he is now seventy-four years old.

His dress was very simple, consisting of a kind of cloth jacket, such as is worn by the Greeks, and the full trowsers of the Albanians, without orders, ornaments or arms of any sort. His manners reserved, unpretending and equally destitute of grace and coarseness, without embarrassment and without effort.

During our interview, the two or three servants we found in the room retired. This was very different from the state usually maintained in these countries and in high contrast with what I had seen in my interviews with the Pashas of Syria and Damascus. When I was presented to them, a large retinue of officers and servants was in attendance and nothing could be more formal and stately than the ceremonies of my presentation. Indeed Turkish etiquette is generally rigid, cumbrous and oppressive as the old Spanish code.

Upon the whole, the appearance of the Pasha is not such as to induce one at first sight to pronounce him a remarkable man. I am not sure that if I had seen him in a crowd, I should have demanded who he was. The remark which Johnson made of Burke is certainly not applicable to him.

ance which calls to the mind of an American his own home beyond the "far Atlantic." Movement has succeeded to inaction. The dosing, dreamy Turk has been succeeded by the bustling, noisy, chattering Fellah.

Yet, in spite of all these apparent evidences of change and prosperity, it is doubtful if the present people of Egypt are in any better condition for the existence of Mehemet Ali. He has brought order out of chaos, but it is the order of an unrelenting and merciless despotism. All Egypt is regarded and governed by him as his farm and the population as his slaves. This idea is the basis of all his police, all his laws and his whole system of polity. The land is his and the inhabitants are his.

The unit is every thing, the many are nothing. He believes that Rome was made for Cæsar. The various innovations which have been introduced, have all reference to the improvement of his revenue, the consolidation of his power and the advancement of the various objects of his ambition. The interest of the people has never entered into his plans, nor occupied any portion of his consideration except as a part of the machinery necessary to the accomplishment of his designs. The engines of his factories have for him the same sort of interest. Improvements are introduced into the one and the other with the same views. Boys are trained and educated for the manufactoThough I have heard much of the great changes ries, and all improvements in machinery are imeffected in Egypt, they surpass my expectations. ported. Schools are established to make soldiers, The police is now as efficient as in any country of to give instruction in the art of war, that this arm the world; the life and property of foreigners are of despotism may be strengthened, but the general perfectly secure; beautiful villas are seen on the improvement of the man, the elevation of his chaNile rivalling even those of Italy; magnificent palaces, lovely gardens and all the appendages of a luxury often combining with oriental taste the There never was probably a despotism so pervarefinements and inventions of European skill and ding, so generally and oppressively felt by each fashion adorn Cairo, Alexandria and even Dami- and every one of a numerous people. None are etta. The country seems well cultivated, and the too low for its reach, none are so high that they numerous and enormous canals which have been' do not feel its weight upon their necks. Many na

VOL. X-47

racter and his moral advancement have never fallen within the sphere of his considerations.

it was common for the inhabitants to maim themselves to prevent enlistment. But such has been the demand for troops, maiming is no longer a protection, and some battalions of men are now seen who have lost an eye, and others that have lost several of their fingers. Yet nothing can rescue them from the demands of their master but absolute inability. If the trigger finger is gone the others are called into requisition.

tions are enslaved, but here the principles of na- [ and the numerous hosts marched into that country. tional and individual slavery are combined and The service is so unpopular, that ten years since wrought out practically. Among all the populations I have seen in the Old World, none has appeared to me so degraded, so abject, so low in the scale of humanity. It is a common remark here, that the kourbash, which is an enormous whip, made of the elephant's hide, is the steam engine of Egypt. It is certain that the lash is nowhere else applied so liberally; and it seems to be the great instrument for carrying on the industrious movement of this country. Personal liberty has no existence except for foreigners, and for them, in many respects, it is almost without limit. The Arab of the desert looks with pity upon his brethren on the banks of the Nile; and well he may; he is free as the air that sweeps over his sands-shot over their heads, wishing them success, that he depends on his own arm for his protection and subsistence. Wanderer and savage as he is, he is a noble man.

I was informed by our Consul at Beyrout, that in the attack on that place by the English, in the late campaign in Syria, it was a subject of surprise, that so few Egyptian shot took effect. It was afterwards ascertained that the troops had designedly

they themselves might be driven out of Syria and relieved from so odious a service.

The system of monopolies is another portion of If there is a canal to be made, a factory to be the administration of the Pasha, most injurious to built, or a war to be waged, the poor Fellahs are the interests of the people. The poor peasant can collected and put to the work, whatever it may be, not sell his cotton or his grain, or any of the proas a large proprietor in Virginia would gather his ducts of his industry except to the Pasha or his negroes from his different estates on occasion of agents. And if he wishes to purchase a pound of some unusual undertaking. Thus, when the great sugar or a pair of shoes, or should he want the use Mahmoudic canal was decided on, all the laborers of a boat on the Nile, he is again obliged to go of lower Egypt were put in requisition, and it is to another set of agents or favorites, who may said, at one time, two hundred and fifty thousand have these monopolies, and pay those prices which men were employed. They were marched in mul- men find it their interest to charge, who have titudes under their Sheiks along the line of the in- no competition, or only such as is found among tended canal, and each chief had his share allotted a few who enjoy a part of the monopoly. On him. Thus was executed this stupendous work, this subject, the foreigners located in this counto which I have before referred, in the short space of six weeks. It is doubtful if the history of the world can present another example of so gigantic an undertaking concluded with such celerity. It is said that twenty thousand laborers were sacrificed on this occasion. It is probable that this statement is exaggerated, yet it is certain that great mortality prevailed and many thousands were believed to be the victims of the urgency of the Pasha. It is still a subject of prejudice, and one in which foreigners are also involved, as having advised the work.

try have been particularly sensitive, because it affects so seriously their interests; and complaints have been made, and remonstrances have been multiplied time after time by the Consuls of different powers.

At length, in 1838, a treaty of commerce was concluded between France and the Ottoman Porte, by which the latter was bound to destroy all monope lies throughout its dominions which affect the productions of agriculture. The Porte also renounced the use of Tes Rérés for the purchase of merchandise, or for transporting it from one place to another. But there is no cause, from which this unfortu- The Pasha having received due notice of this nate country has suffered more under its present treaty from the Sultan, pretended the necessity of ruler than from his passion for war. A want of an arrangement with the Fellahs and asked three laborers is now severely felt, and the population has years to prepare for carrying it into execution. greatly diminished. Mr. Falt, in his work on To withdraw himself from the importunities of the Egypt, written in 1834, states that some years Consuls and merchants, he went into Upper Egypt before, the population was estimated, according to and there remained a long time. Finally he procertain calculations which were then made, at two mulged a decree abolishing the monopoly of boats and a half millions; but of them, at least one half on the Nile. A cry of joy was now heard this of those fit for military service had been taken to was proclaimed the commencement of a new era. form and recruit the armies of regular troops and Some Europeans prepared boats. But lo! an unfor the service of the Navy. He considered at expected difficulty now arose-sailors were not to that time, that from this source the population had be obtained. Ibrahim Pashaw, Abbas Pashaw and sustained a loss of half a million of souls. Now Cherif Pasha are proprietors of a vast number of the loss is much greater since the wars in Syria boats and derive from them large revenues. They

possessed themselves of all the sailors. And if of it freely and regards the achievement as a great the foreigners engaged some Fellahs, they learned "coup de politique." This treacherous assassinain a short time that a gendarme of a divan had tion of the aristocracy of all Egypt he deems sufseized them in the name of his master. The Euro- ficiently justified from the fact that they stood in peans claimed them, and behold the response which the way of his progress, and their sacrifice was they received. "The barks are yours, but the men necessary to secure his absolute power. This is belong to the Pasha, and our master disposes of as might have been anticipated. He has shed too them as he pleases." In the meantime, while the much blood and been too familiar with scenes of public were discoursing of the acts and intentions death and carnage to place much value on human of the government, the Pasha, by his agents, pur-life. When myriads have been sacrificed on the chased all the grain of Upper Egypt at ten francs altar of his ambition, the few hundreds, relieved of the bedebbe, transported it to Alexandria and sold their lives on this occasion, occupy but small space it there at sixteen. And thus has he, in spite of in his "mind's eye." But he knows full well the the treaties of the Porte and all the efforts of the estimation in which the act is held in Europe; and Counsuls, continued to keep in operation his sys- says he intends to have two great paintings taken, tem of monopolies up to the present time. one of the murder of the Mamelukes, the other of He always professes to Europeans an anxious the execution of the Duke d' Enghien by Napoleon, desire to introduce into Egypt the sciences and the and the two may go down to posterity together. arts of Europe, to make his people a civilized peo- I have expressed the opinion that it is doubtful ple. But to arrive at this object he says it is indis- if the present population of Egypt is in any better pensable that his government should extend its condition for the existence of Mehemet Ali. But action over all the sources of production-that the posterity may profit. A very different opinion has native should be in his hands an instrument docile prevailed in Europe and America. Impressed by to his will. That being without instruction and his transcendant genius, astounded by his daring in a state of brutality since many ages, the Egyp-energy and wonderful successes, and dazzled by tian will never accept of civilization if it is not the halo of his military glory, men have for the forced on him. This is the sophistry with which most part hailed him as the regenerator of the he amuses Europeans and attempts to conciliate land of the Pharaohs. The seed he has planted may European Courts. His acts but attest the sincerity

of his declarations.

hereafter produce fruit; the light he has introduced may in times to come make its way to the minds of the miserable Fellahs. The material improvements he has executed, his public works, the magnificent structure he has reared, the canals he has excavated, the lands reclaimed from the desert, all these will remain as monuments of his reign. His manufactories which he has nurtured with so much care and at so great an expense will probably pass away with him. They are a forced product, unsuited to the country and its circumstances.

Among all the changes which this extraordinary man has introduced into this country, perhaps there is none which has more astonished the natives than the manner he has adopted of disposing of the inmates of his Harem. Among the elevated Turks and Arabs, such as the Sultans and wealthy and powerfal Pashas, the women of the Harems even after the death of their lords, have always been preserved as sacred relics. Subsequent marriages have not been permitted. Their doom has been to pine in The protection which he has extended to foreignseclusion and mourn the departed-" to blush un-ers and their constant contact with the citizens of seen, and waste their fragrance on the desert air." the country have probably diminished their preMehemet Ali has very justly deemed this usage judices and their bigotry. These beneficial effects irrational and cruel to the fair sex. The result is, since he has become old, he has been acting as his own administrator, and he has disposed of most of his fair ones in matrimony to his most illustrious Generals. He has thus been able at the same time to reward the services of distinguished officers, by this high and extraordinary mark of honor and to manifest his regard to the ladies of his household by preventing their sacrifice after his decease.

may be the prelude to greater changes. They have been forced to see in many things the superiority of our usages. No innovation was more strenuously and violently resisted than the European discipline of the troops. It led even to revolution and came near costing the Pasha his throne. Now the results of their own campaigns have shown its great advantages. The introduction of steam upon the Nile and in the manufactories has had the same I was curious to know what views are now enter- tendency. The habits of living adopted by the tained by the Pasha of that great event which Pasha and the officers of State and of the army, is considered in all the Western world as the great the use of knives and forks, the drinking of wine reproach of his life, as the stain which no good can and the conformity in many other things with our efface. I mean the murder of the Mamelukes. I habits may eventually produce more harmony with made inquiries on this subject of those who are the Christian races. Though this very conformity familiar with his sentiments. Nor regrets nor com- has caused a prejudice against the Pasha and a panctions have ever been felt by him. He speaks renewed want of confidence in the orthodoxy of his

Tho' many a heart that held thee dear
Had mourned thy early doom,
Less bitter far had been the tear
Which now bedews thy tomb.

No longer will the cannon's roar
Disturb thy dreamless sleep!
Thy youthful comrades never more
Shall hail thee on the deep!

Ye winds! breathe softly o'er his grave!—
Sweet flowers! in beauty bloom,
To deck the turf, where sleeps the brave
Within his narrow tomb.

faith. The young men who have been educated in France and Italy at his expense, must also bring with them on their return European ideas; and these will obtain a certain degree of diffusion. It would seem that they must penetrate the dense darkness which envelops the natives. And yet so wide is the line of separation which divides the very few who constitute the aristocracy from the enslaved Fellahs, that all light must be very slow in its passage. The wretched peasant, galled by the lash of his imperious master, cares but little for light or information which gives no improvement to his condition. And if, perchance, his benighted intellect should be sufficiently illumined to perceive that from these innovations have been derived new means of strengthening his shackles, this indifference is converted into aversion. And again, when he finds that the new system tends to a destruction of that faith in which he reposes his hopes of a happy existence hereafter, his aversion becomes phrensy. We have but little idea of the pride and enthusiasm with which the Mahommedan cherishes his religion. It is a question which admits of no argument. Doubt entails disgrace— By reference to the act of Congress of the 2nd denial brings death in time and eternity. Religion of March, 1821, "to reduce and fix the military is the soul of his existence. If you touch this peace establishment," which I have regarded in all you reach the heart's blood. Nor can any important change be hoped for on this subject, until general cultivation brings religion within the reach of reason, when feeling and prejudice may be submitted to the test of investigation.

NOTES ON OUR ARMY.

NO. V.

"An Army is a collection of armed men, obliged to obey one man."-Locke.

TO THE HON. THOMAS H. Benton.

my communications as the basis of our present organization, it is perceived that no separate and distinct ordnance corps was then deemed necessary, and none was retained in our Army. Our then Secretary of War, the most able and efficient we have ever had, the Hon. John C. Calhoun, profiting by the experience of foreign services, and seeking the interest of his country instead of the welfare and advancement of individuals, secured an organization for our little Army combining effieiency and harmony with economy and unity of action. Peace-meal legislation has at length deprived us of every feature which recommended that establishment, and we are now clogged by checks and balances to such an extent that it is almost impossible for the different branches of the service to keep from open warfare. Encroachment after encroachment has been made upon our peace organization, by nearly every branch of our staff, as must already be apparent to you, but in no instance have they been more rapid and injurious—I had almost said, destructive to the interests of the Army-than will be exemplified by a glance at the Ordnance Department. The act of Congress of the 2nd of March, 1821, based upon the experience of foreign services, merged the ordnance of our Army in the Artillery, and provided for one supernumerary Captain to each Artillery regiment for ordnance duties,—a field officer of Artillery being detailed to superintend the duties of the department, and the law specially providing for the further deItail of such Artillery officers for ordnance duties, as might be deemed necessary. It is perceived by reference to the official register of the British