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one cannot but lament, that so much money should have been so unprofitably employed. It was his folly, and he ought to suffer for it. But, after all, I cannot discover the great value of these marbles. Not a single piece is perfect. You see the body of a man, without a face or an arm; the mouth and lips of a female figure, without the upper part of the head; and the piece which has been most admired here, is the head of a horse, without any under jaw, with no nostrils or ears, but one eye, and half the crest of the mane broken off. If they were wanted as models of sculpture, casts could easily have been taken of them, at Athens; and architects would better improve their taste by seeing a drawing of a whole temple, than by examining an unwieldy block of marble, which once formed part of a column. I should suspect myself of want of taste, if I were not supported in my opinion by and who have sufficient enthusiasm for every thing Grecian; by

, who has no moderate feelings upon any subject; and by, who has a high relish for all the pleasures of taste. Yet Mr. West speaks with admiration of these marbles, and Mrs. Siddons fainted, or affected to faint, with emotion, at the sight of them. They reminded me of a story in Hierocles;—a man had a palace to sell, and by way of recommending it, carried about with him a brick as a specimen.

I left the building wearied and displeased; and gladly threw myself into the carriage, and drove to Stoke Newington to visit Mrs. Barbauld. I found her an agreeable, sensible woman, with infinite good nature in her countenance and

manner; but nothing that denoted a very powerful mind, or even marked the rank which she really holds among literary females. A volume of Mr. Buckminster's sermons lay upon the table. She told me it had been her constant companion ever since she received it; that the sermons were the best in the world, uniting the good sense of the English, with the fervor of the French divines. We talked of the comparative state of learning in England and America; and she confirmed all the accounts, which I heard before, of the deplorable ignorance of the lower classes in this country. Numerous as the learned and well informed persons undoubtedly are, seven persons in eight are unable to read and write. We spoke of the late wonderful victory of the Duke of Wellington at Waterloo, and of the terrible slaughter by which it was gained; but I could not ascertain her opinion of the present war. She says it will be time enough for America to write books in the next century,-she ought now to be cultivating her soil, and laying in a stock of learning and taste, to be employed, when the glories of England have passed away. She deprecated the introduction of large manufactories among us, and especially the employment of young children in them. An attempt, she added, was making to procure an act of Parliament, prohibiting the employment of children, under ten years of age, for more than ten hours a day. How great must be the evil, when such is the remedy! She did not appear to have a very accurate notion of the geography of America, and I have found no one who had. They seem to think here, that Boston, Philadelphia, and Washington, lie close together, like Liverpool, Man

chester, and Bristol. It was with difficulty I could escape from her hospitality, for, after I had declined her invitation to dinner, she insisted upon my partaking her beef-steak as a lunch. I did not see Miss Aikin, whom I had hoped to find with her.

This morning we went to see West, and were politely shown into his picture rooms. There is nothing to be seen in England more wonderful than these. It seems impossible for an individual to have painted over so much canvass in a century, as the pictures which he still retains in his own possession. In about eighteen months he is going to collect together, in one gallery, all that he has ever painted, and make one grand exhibition. He says they will fill a room four hundred feet long, fifty wide, and forty-two feet high! The Louvre in Paris, which contains the accumulated treasures of six centuries, and of fifty artists, is only one third larger. I had much conversation with him; the substance of which I will endeavour to abbreviate. He does not know how soon he began to paint,-it was as soon as he began to speak. At seven years his inclination was fixed, though he had never heard of painting or painters. At twenty, he went from Philadelphia to Rome. There his mind was so much excited, he was so constantly in the clouds, that he was unable to stay more than three months at a time. This state of extreme agitation continued till after he was twenty-five, when it gradually settled into a placid enjoyment of his art. After three years spent in Italy, he returned through France to England on his way to America, and arrived in London about the time of the first

exhibition of paintings. Nothing was painted at that time but portraits,-portraits of men, women, and children, horses, and dogs, and cats. He put in two small pictures, and, not knowing that he possessed any remarkable talents for painting, was surprised at the attention they received. Since that time, he has constantly resided in England. The king has been his great patron and friend; and some time (about the American war) employed him for fourteen years together at Windsor. It was the king who first turned his attention to Scripture subjects, in which he so much excels. The second picture which he has painted for the Philadelphia Hospital is much better than the first. The British Institution are so well convinced of this, that they have given him several hints, that if his countrymen are not satisfied, they are perfectly willing to exchange. His picture of Christ Rejected, he says, has not its fellow in the world,-not in execution, he added with a smile, but in subject. It has every passion, of which the human countenance is susceptible; and all the intermediate characters are there delineated, from the robber Barabbas to the Saviour of the world. I have purchased, and shall bring home with me, a few sketches, taken from this picture, which will give you some idea of the great original. Some of Mr. West's pictures are, he says, thirty-six feet in height. Christ Rejected, which is twenty-four feet long and sixteen feet high, he calls, pleasantly enough, a half-size.

Rotterdam, July 4, 1815.


WHO would have thought last year, dear, that I should now be writing to you from Holland? Next July, perhaps, we may be taking the air together on Mount Caucasus, or enjoying a moonlight walk on the banks of the Danube. may be settled in Paris, and gathering flowers in the Netherlands. Two years ago we were living quietly in P, neither wishing, nor dreaming of a change; now two of us are wandering through England, like Noah's dove, seeking a resting-place; and two more are journeying they know not where, in search of they know not what. What will be the change of the

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We left London last Thursday afternoon, spent the night at Ingatestone, and reached Harwich on Friday noon. Our passage had been previously engaged in one of the Government Packets; but as the wind was contrary, we did not sail till Sunday morning. We had a very uncomfortable passage of about thirty hours to Helvoetsluys, in a little vessel of sixty tons; and about forty persons on board. We all suffered more from sea-sickness, than in our whole voyage from America; and our sufferings were not alleviated by the consideration, that we had been most grossly defrauded. At Helvoetsluys we hired two carriages for Rotterdam. One was een postwagen met twee paerden (I can talk Dutch with the best of them)—a long narrow cart, without any top, mounted upon four wheels.

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