inscriptions and broken pillars, but nothing of sufficient moment to attract attention. At Bovianum, now Boiano, which Livy describes as an opulent and important place, part of the ancient walls are still to be seen. It is placed at the foot of the lofty range of mountains, called Molise, and we can easily believe, from its situation, that it may be deprived of the light of the sun during some of the winter months. It was here that we found one of the sources of the river Tifernus, to which we before alluded, bursting with great force from the side of the mountain. In the south of this province we find the Furcæ Caudinæ, the true position of which has caused much controversy among antiquaries. Dr. Cramer gives a very fair statement of the whole subject: we are prepared, however, to dispute the correctness of the opinion which he advocates, but we cannot now enter on the subject. From an examination of the ground, we are persuaded that Cluverius was right in placing the scene of the disaster in the narrow defile beyond S. Agata dei Goti, in a glen formed by the rivulet Faienza, a tributary to the Volturno. At Beneventum, which remained firmly attached to the Romans during the whole of the second Punic war, there is a very magnificent triumphal arch erected to Trajan, an obelisk of the age of Domitian, the remains of the theatre, and part of the ancient bridge across the river Sabatus. Considerably to the south, on the banks of the Calor, we find the small village Taurasium distinguished as the spot where Pyrrhus was totally defeated by Curius Dentatus, and to which the Romans in later times removed a considerable body of Ligurians. At the modern village of Taurasi, there are considerable remains, and several sepulchral inscriptions, one of them to a person of the name of Virgilius. In speaking of the position of Ampsancti Lacus, Dr. Cramer states it is near the village of Frigento: to be correct, he ought to have said that it is three miles distant, and is now known to the inhabitants by the name of Mefiti, from its sulphureous exhalations. From being ignorant of its modern appellation, we had much difficulty in discovering its position, and had nearly been baffled, after travelling upwards of thirty miles to examine it. We approached it from Taurasi, and many miles before we reached the spot, the volcanic nature of the soil, and the bareness of the country, gave us warning that we must be in the vicinity of this lake, of which Virgil (Æn. vii., 563) gives us so beautiful a description. The noise, however, was by no means of so tremendous a character as the poet has described; the water was thrown up in jets, in several parts to the height of about four feet; but there was not much sound accom

panying it. The sulphureous exhalation was so strong, that we were obliged to keep to windward, and on attempting to descend towards the brink of the lake, which was fifty feet below us, we soon began to feel the effects, and were happy to escape beyond its influence*.

We have now reached the province of Lucania, to which we shall attach the district of the Bruttii, and make our remarks on both at the same time. It will be most convenient to run along the western coast to Rheggio, and then proceed up as far as Tarentum. Landing at the mouth of the river Silarus, which still possesses, as formerly, the property of incrusting, by means of a calcareous deposit, any pieces of wood or twigs thrown into it, we ought to find the Portus Alburnus. There is no appearance, however, at present, of any such haven, nor does it seem possible that the shore should ever have admitted of its construction. Here also was situated the Templum Junonis Argivæ, said to have been founded by Jason and the Argonauts. We tried to discover some remains on the left bank of the Silarus, where Strabo places it, but we were unsuccessful. At present there is only a small tower, evidently of no great antiquity. The hills to the south-east of Pæstum were called formerly Petilini Montes, to which Spartacus retired, after being defeated by Crassus, and they derived their name, it is said, from a town Petilia. In his map, Dr. Cramer has quite mistaken the position of these mountains, and of Mount Stella, by which name they are now known. Stella is to the west of the river Alento, and not to the east, lying so close to the sea, that it seems at your feet, and rising to such a height, that, when the weather is clear, the distant island of Stromboli may be seen distinctly. On its declivity are the ruins of a castle of the middle ages, called Castellucio di Stella, and on its summit a chapel, and the remains of a monastery to which it belonged, but we in vain sought for any fragment which should prove that we were on the site of the ancient Petilia. Velia, which is said to have been founded by the Phocæans, when they fled from the armies of Cyrus the Elder, and celebrated in later times for its school of philosophy, is not at the distance of three miles, as stated by the author, from the river Heles; it is scarcely one mile, and about one quarter of a mile from the sea, at the spot now called Castellamare della Bruca The city stretched along the brow of a hill, and its walls may be traced here and there for upwards of two miles. There are a number of sepulchral inscriptions in Greek characters, scattered in the fields: one ruin which they

* See Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, vol. ii. p. 62.

called Catacombe, is a vaulted chamber, now half filled with earth; on the roof there is an inscription in a circle, some letters of which we were able to make out, but the greater part was illegible.

Proceeding along the coast till we arrive within two miles of Cape Palinurus, we reach a tower which the inhabitants have honoured with the title of Sepolcro di Palinuro; it is built of brick, and is evidently of a late age. Though it is several miles from any village, it is curious that there should be a fair held here annually. It is well known that a number of the vessels of Augustus were shipwrecked against this headland. The inhabitants show a cave, which can only be entered from the sea, into which they affirm the bodies of the sailors were tossed, and in the lapse of ages were petrified by the nature of the rock. As a proof of the correctness of their statement, they point out what they assert to be the legs and arms of these sailors. It will be at once conjectured that it is one of those grottoes found in all limestone countries; it is filled with magnificent stalactites of various forms, some of them, no doubt, resembling the limbs of human beings: but to those who have seen the very extraordinary shapes which the stalactites assume in the grotto of Adelsberg, and other similar natural caves, it would not be considered as worthy of much notice. At the mouth of the Melphes, there is said to have been a city called Palinurus ad Melphem: the ruins found on the hill above this stream are certainly of the middle ages, though there may have been a Greek town of an earlier date on the same site. The ruins of Pyxus or Buxentum are found on the exact site of Policastro, and not near it, as Dr. Cramer states. In the cathedral, there are several marble pillars with inscriptions, built into the walls upside down. The ruins of Scidrus are found along the north side of a beautiful little bay close to the village of Sapri. The edifices are evidently of Roman construction, and on one side a mole has been thrown out into the sea to form the harbour. Blanda, a small village mentioned by Livy (xxiv. 20.) is placed by Dr. Cramer at Maratea: the true site, however, seems to have been nearer the coast, where some ancient remains are found, and a tower which they call Torre di Venere. The position of Laus, too, we found to be not exactly at the village of Scalea, according to the author, but half a mile further on in the plain below, close to the banks of the river of the same name.

Considerably further south, there was a city called Temesa, or Tempsa, of great antiquity, celebrated for its copper mines, to which Homer is supposed to refer in the Odyssey. Its

situation has not yet been fully determined. We found, ten miles to the north of Amantea, a tower called Torre di Mesa, and some appearance of ancient ruins. In the mountains in the vicinity, the inhabitants state that there is every appearance of mines, but our time would not permit of our proceeding to investigate the truth of the statement. The modern name certainly might very easily be a corruption of Temesa. Dr. Cramer is wrong in placing Terina at the modern village of Nocera, which is three miles, and not five, from the coast. The ruins of Terina are found close to the shore, on a hill called Torre del Piano, which has evidently been levelled for the purpose of building. The proprietor of the ground, with whom we spent the night at Nocera, stated that many coins and small earthenware lamps, were found at this spot. The remains of the aqueduct can still be traced. There can, we think, be no doubt that Vibo (as Dr. Cramer says) was situated at Monte Leone; designated by Cicero illustre et nobile municipium.' There was a festival here in honour of Proserpine, when the women assembled to gather flowers, and twine garlands for their hair; in the festival of the Madonna, we found that nearly the same ceremonies were performed as in ancient times to the pagan goddess.

We now cross to the opposite coast, and, as we descend from the lofty ridge of the Apennines, we cannot help being struck with the melancholy and deserted appearance of this portion of Italy, formerly so populous and well cultivated. Dr. Cramer seems not to be certain respecting the position of Locri, one of the most powerful cities of Magna Græcia. Now we think that there can be no doubt that it was not situated at Gerace*, which is evidently a village of the middle ages, but five miles distant on the coast, where very considerable ruins are found. The Temple of Proserpine, one of the wealthiest and most sacred shrines in Italy, which was plundered by Dionysius the Elder, is pointed out by the inhabitants, though they can produce nothing to prove the truth of their assertion. The walls of the city can be traced on

*Niebuhr, in one of his notes, denies the truth of Swinburne's account of the small village of Bova, found about thirty miles to the south of Locri. As Swinburne states it to be a colony of modern Greeks, while Niebuhr imagines it to be a remnant of the old Greek nation settled here in the glorious days of Magna Græcia, we may take this opportunity of confirming Swinburne's account. We met at Gerace one of the inhabitants of this village, and he stated, that the tradition of his countrymen was that they had come over in the time of Scanderbeg, as many Albanians did at the same time, whom we find in various parts of the kingdom of Naples. We observed also, that his language was the exact Romaic dialect with only very slight variations, which would scarcely have been the case if Bova be a remnant of the Italian Greeks.

one side quite distinctly close to the shore, and about half a mile inland the foundations of two temples or public buildings are observed where the ground begins to rise gently. Dr. Cramer is not correct in supposing that Gerace is situated on the Mons Esopis of Strabo, if Gerace is not Locri. As to the position of Caulon, we would fix it at a spot called Calamona, about a mile from the sea, and three from Castelvetere, where many sepulchres have been found containing coins of the Greek cities. Between this hill and the sea there is an extensive plain where the memorable overthrow of the Crotoniata took place, when they were defeated by a force of ten thousand Locrians. The ruins of Scyllacium are found nearer to the coast than the modern village of Squillace, where they are generally placed. About twenty miles from this town, at a village, Tiriolo, which is equidistant from both seas, there are numerous Greek coins found, but its ancient name is unknown. Here too was discovered the celebrated tablet, prohibiting the Bacchanalian orgies throughout Italy, which we saw, if we recollect right, in the Public Museum at Vienna. There is a lofty mountain. behind it, from which you can distinguish Mount Etna and Stromboli when the day is clear. The next point of any importance along the east coast is the Promontorium Lacinium, on which was situated the Temple of Juno, to whom Æneas presented a brazen vase on his arrival in Italy. Here Hannibal caused an inscription to be engraved, recording the number of his troops and their several victories and achievements. The ruins are still to be seen at this promontory, now called Capo di Colonne. Some of the foundation stones are ten feet in length, and five rows still remain. Above these appears 'opus reticulatum,' of which immense masses lie scattered up and down. There is a large piece of wall running down to the sea about thirty feet in height. A single Doric column remains, but it is difficult to imagine how it should have been placed in its present position. It is raised like a monument above what appears to be the ancient base of the Temple, on a pedestal of four rows of stones, each about the breadth of one foot. The stones are placed on each other without mortar. The length of the Temple on the west side, where it is tolerably perfect, has been about four hundred feet. The side which faces the point is almost entirely destroyed. There is now a small chapel to the Madonna del Capo, whose festival the people of Cotrone celebrate in the month of May, but we could not discover that there were any particular customs observed. The land, at the distance of about one mile and a half before