to grow up from the root; the rest are cut off and this practice is often called, by the Greeks, CLEANING. After walking for some time, we arrived at a very interesting object-a forest of lemon-trees extends up the hills, and affords a most beautiful appearance, loaded with its golden fruit. Logothetes computes that there are more than 10,000 lemon-trees: in all directions, men were employed in gathering the lemons; but the principal time is December and January. In time of peace, cargoes of lemons are sent to Constantinople and other places. I was received at Poros with much hospitality, by Basil Budures. Hydra. March 19, 1828-According to a calculation lately made, there are 18,000 Hydriots resident in the island: besides these, there are 2000 or 3000 strangers. After various visits, I retired to my room, and spent some delightful moments: my faith was renewed. I saw the evidence for the truth of Christianity in its brightness, and I rejoiced with joy unspeakable. If I had always such clear conviction in my mind, I should in truth verify the lines "I tread the world beneath my feet, And all the earth calls good and great." here during the war. One of the Hydriot vessels having been blown up by accident, a false report was spread, that a Turk, who was on board, had been the cause of it. Instantly, 300 Turks, who were prisoners in the island, were brought forth and massacred: the marketplace streamed with blood, and the adjacent sea was crowded with dead bodies. Instances occurred of boys, only ten years old, hacking to death athletic Turks of more than forty years of age. condition of the Youth of Hydra is most unhappy: there are no Tutors, no Libraries, no means of passing their time usefully they seem to grow up in complete inaction. I know not how life can be endured in such a manner. The March 23-Having obtained permission from the Primates to preach, I mounted the pulpit in the principal Church, after the close of the Liturgy. I saw around me a large assembly: there was even a considerable number at the outside. My text was, If the Son shall make you free, you will be free indeed. I spoke for about an hour, and after wards conversed with the Hegoumenos and others of the Clergy. I informed them of the zeal of my countrymen for the extension of Christianity; of the exertions of the Bible Society; of the conversion of the South-Sea Islands; and of similar subjects. I have been greatly shocked with various recitals given me relative to the state of anarchy in which Hydra has long been placed. A man died here some time since who confessed, on his deathbed, that he had murdered seventeen, men and one woman. Another Hydriot is still living with impunity, who has killed the father of the Conduriettis, and five or six other Greeks: one of these was his brother-in-law. At the breaking out of the Revolution, he assassinated all the Jews who were in the island, eleven in number; and he has murdered eleven or twelve Turks in cold blood. March 24-The persons to whom Mr. Brewer and I had entrusted Scriptures for sale have not been very active: one of them has sold five copies of the large, and three of the small edition: the other, eleven of the large, and two of the small. I myself have been more successful; having sold, by means of my servant, during the few days I have spent here, twenty-three copies of the large, and thirty-six of the small edition. I also sold four copies of Mr. Jowett's Commentary on the Acts of the Apostles, and a considerable number of Tracts. To some poor persons I gave a few Testaments, and other books, gratis. I departed from Hydra thankful for all the favours which I have received in that island. As the weather was exceed ingly calm, we did not arrive at Kastri (the ancient Hermione) till after sun-set. Kastri. March 25-They inform me that there are in Kastri 200 houses. I have been conversing with the four Priests who live here, and with other inhabitants. To each of the Priests I presented an Ancient Greek Testament, and seven copies of the large Testament were purchased: many more would have been sold, if I had had them. We walked together over the site of the ancient Hermione: little or nothing remains of all its temples and buildings. Tragopogon porrifolius, Reseda lutea, and many other ornaments of the vegetable kingdom, now flower and flourish where men once lived. The ancient town was situated on a peninsula, between two excellent harbours: Kastri is built on a rising ground behind : March 26,1828 Sunday-This morning I rose very early, in order to be ready for Church. The Sermon, however, did not commence till sun-rise. The bell sounded, and I found a considerable Congregation assembled in the Church, called the Metropolis. After an immense number of Kyrie Eleesons, a Priest called out "Begin," and I accordingly commenced with a short prayer. I afterward preached from the words, Be ye reconciled to God. The people, who are almost all of the lower orders, seemed lost in astonishment; being evidently quite perplexed at hearing a Frank preaching about Christ, whilst they did not observe him kissing pictures, crossing himself, or performing any other of those actions which they always account the most essential marks of Christianity. I confide in God alone for a happy result of my endeavours. Almost immediately after the Sermon, I went to a Monastery, which is at the distance of half-an-hour: an inscription over the gateway denotes that it is dedicated to our Saviour and the wonderworking Anargyri. Here I found a considerable number of Manuscripts, and spent much time in examining them. Amongst the rest, there are two Lectionaries of the Acts of the Apostles and the Epistles. They are evidently of no great antiquity, as they are on glazed paper with cursive letters and accents. It is not, however, unworthy of notice, that both of them omit the disputed passage, 1 John v. 7. March 27-Conversing with the Hegoumenos and another Caloyer, the latter made a remark, which I have frequently heard repeated in Greece; viz. that the English believe in the transmigration of souls. Whence this idea had its origin, it would be difficult to determine. Another man lately observed, that he had always understood there were exceedingly few Christians in England. Kranidi. The distance from Kastri to this place is an hour-and-a-half. They assure me that there are here 700 houses. Soon after my arrival, I called on Joseph, the Bishop of Andrussa, his who had written to me a very friendly Letter whilst I was in Egina. He is one of the most virtuous and well-informed Prelates of the Morea. We had much interesting conversation; and he described to me sufferings whilst detained a prisoner, with the other Bishops, in Tripolitza. Having observed that it was the spoils of Tripolitza which gave rise to the dissensions and other evils which proved so injurious to the Greek cause, he added, that this circumstance gave him to understand the reason why God had commanded an utter destruction of the spoils taken at Jericho.. Indeed, the evils which have been occasioned, during the Greek Revolution, by the captive women and the plunder, seem calcu lated to throw some light, not only on the prohibition of spoil, but also on the command of utter extermination laid upon the Israelites. The Turkish Women have been a snare even to several of the Greek Bishops; and they have thereby occasioned not only incalculable injury to these Ecclesiastics themselves, but they have also brought infinite scandal on their profession. I walked with a nephew of the Bishop to a Monastery, about a mile distant, at the port. This young man informed me, that, during the three years which the Bishop has resided here, no less than twenty-eight murders have been perpetrated at Kranidi. In the Monastery, I looked over a volume of Modern-Greek Sermons: according to the table of contents, one of the Discourses shews that the Holy Virgin suffered more than all the Martyrs, and even more than Christ Himself!' Kranidi has the reputation of being an extremely healthy place. It suffers, however, from the scarcity of water: no springs are to be met with: a few wells, some of which become frequently dry in summer, are the only resource of the inhabitants. In Hydra, and Kranidi, where there are no fountains of water, but where, that precious article must be obtained from precarious cisterns or wells, we understand the force of Jeremiah, ii. 13. My people have forsaken me, the fountain of living waters; and hewed them out cisterns, broken cisterns, that hold no water. The vicinity of Kranidi is cultivated to a considerable extent, being chiefly laid out in vineyards. Many of the inhabitants are also employed in maritime pursuits, being celebrated for their seamanship. The com mon language here, as well as at Hydra and Kastri, is Albanian; and some of the women understand nothing else: the men all understand Modern Greek. on March 28,1828-This morning, though I have not mounted a pulpit, I have had an excellent opportunity of preaching the Truth. Having called the Bishop, he drew me into conversation on Saint Worship, and other practices which need reformation in the Eastern Church: it led to a lengthened discussion, in which I found occasion to lay before the Bishop, and all present, many important truths: I am happy to say, that a very favourable impression appeared to be produced. The Ekonomos and others afterward paid me a visit. By one of them, I sent a copy of Mr. Jowett's Commentary on the Acts of the Apostles to a Hermit residing on the Island of Belle Poule: he is represented as being a very learned man, who reads every book which he can possibly obtain. I regret, exceedingly, that I have not with me any more of the Modern-Greek Testaments: I might have sold a considerable number at Kastri and Kranidi. I distributed a few of the Hellenic, which I had remaining. I spent nearly three hours with the Bishop, and find much reason to rejoice in the friendly disposition which he manifests. He intimated his intention of corresponding with me. I was particularly delighted to find that the Commentary on the Acts, which I had sent him from Ægina, had afforded him the greatest satisfaction. He could scarcely find words strong enough to express his admiration of it: he preferred it much to their own Commentaries. Napoli di Romania. March 29-For the second time, I find myself in this celebrated fortress. We sailed from the port of Kranidi at eight o'clock, and in six hours arrived here. March 30-I have distributed several copies of Lord Lyttleton on St. Paul, and of Bishop Porteus's Evidencesbooks which I find of great value in the present crisis. March 31-Since I was in Napoli, our Agent has sold all the Scriptures with which he was entrusted; viz. 30 small Testaments, 17 large, and one Hellenic; and he has paid me, deducting the per-centage, 124 piastres, 30 paras. I hope soon to send him a much larger supply. Visited with much pleasure the Lancasterian School: it has 170 scho lars, and is in excellent order: many Boys repeated, at length, passages of Scripture History. The Malta Publications have been much used in this school. Called on N. Skuphas, and conversed with his sisters. They shewed me the Pilgrim's Progress," and "Law on Education," which their father had sent them from Smyrna. In the latter work he had written, “Read it once, and twice, and often." April 1-I presented a supply of books, for the School of Demitzani, to Niketas Kallas, one of the Managing Committee; and others for the Lancasterian School in Napoli. April 2-I reached this place, from Napoli, in about three hours. Napoli is an unhealthy spot; and though it is much improved by the new police regulations, still it is a dangerous place. Dr. Bailly, a French Physician, is said to advise"In Napoli, eat no meat, drink no wine; but as soon as you arrive at Argos, eat and drink whatever you please." I am glad to observe a large extent of corn land near Argos; but I am informed that much less than usual is this year cultivated. Too often the proverb has been literally verified, in regard to Greece-One soweth, and another reapeth (John iv. 37). Approaching Argos, we found the Panitza flowing with water, but the Xerias (Inachus) dry. Last winter, two boys were drowned in the Inachus, attempting to cross it when the waters were high. I have found here three Schools, each of them with about twenty scholars; and distributed Tracts amongst them. Two of the Demogerontes and the Politarch called upon me. After giving them books, one of them read aloud the whole of the February Number of the "Philanthropist." The Politarch, whose tall and martial figure appears to have raised him to his post, inquired whether any reward after death was to be expected, for fighting in deferce of country and religion. I examined the Oracular Cave described by Dr. Clarke. The fictile superstructure and altar have entirely disappeared; but the cavern, which was employed to delude the superstitious multitude, still remains. It would have been well if such delusions had been practised by the Antients only; but the history of Modern Greece would, I fear, be a much longer catalogue of lying wonders. Niketas, one of the most celebrated Chieftains of the Morea, is here at present. On account of his warlike deeds, he has received the appellation Tupkopάyos, "Turk-eater." He described to me, with much interest, some of his most celebrated achievements. He estimates the loss of the Turks at Dervenaki and the other Pass, in which he engaged the Pacha of Drama, at 6000 men. Like Kolokotroni, he was formerly in General Church's regiment, in Zante. He spoke with warmth, as all other Greeks do, of the debt of gratitude which they owe to Great Britain, for undertaking their cause. Captain Hamilton he called Ψυχοπατὴρ, Adopted Father of Greece." Tripolitza. April 3,1828-I write amidst the Ruins of Tripolitza. Few places afford more scope for serious reflection. View it seven years ago, filled with population, secure and numerous-the abode of Beys, Pachas, and every rank of the community. Here the proud Turk stalked along in his fancied greatness, little dreaming of the terrible overthrow which so speedily awaited him. Then behold Tripolitza suddenly filled with alarm and apprehension, crowded with refugees, so as probably to contain within its walls 40,000 persons, and enduring a blockade of seven months! Next, the tremendous catastrophe!-thousands upon thousands are slaughtered, thousands are reduced to slavery the streets literally flowed with blood! Immediately followed a visitation of Providence on the infuriated victors-a pestilence, which extended itself to the most-distant parts of the Morea, and which carried off five or six thousand souls! Afterward, Tripolitza becomes a flourishing Greek town; and is, apparently, given up to the same fatal security which before had seized the Turks. But suddenly the news is brought that Ibrahim Pacha approaches the town is evacuated-the spoil is left for the conqueror, and once more Tripolitza is a Mussulman possession. Last of all, but thirty-seven days ago, the Arab army abandons the place, but not till it had utterly destroyed every building within it! Tripolitza is now empty, and void, and waste (Nahum ii. 10); but the poor Greeks are beginning to flock again to their desolate houses, and once more hope for peace and security. We set out from Argos very early in the morning, and were almost 11 hours in reaching Tripolitza. The road is, for the most part, dreary; leading over lofty and barren hills, the principal of which is Mount Parthenius. In England, where the roads are so excellent, we do not readily perceive the force and just application of the Scriptural figures, derived from a stone of stumbling, and rock of offence (Isaiah viii. 14. and similar passages); but in the East, where the roads are for the most part nothing more than an accustomed track, the constant danger and impediment arising to travellers from stones and rocks fully explain the allusion. Tripolitza is situated on a lofty plain, surrounded on all sides by mountains; so as strongly to remind me of the words, As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about His people, &c. (Psalm cxxv. 2.) The climate is remarkably cold in winter; snow in large quantities, and frost of a severe description, being frequent. In summer it is considered an agreeable residence, on account of the coolness of the nights. The Demogerontes and others treated me with kindness. The ruins by which we were surrounded afforded an excellent topic from which to offer serious observations; and I directed their attention to a nobler city, to one which hath foundations, whose builder and maker is God. I also gave him some books for the Lancasterian School, which they intend to renew. In the precincts of one of the principal Mosques, an apartment formerly occupied by one of the attendants employed in Mussulman Worship had in part escaped destruction: here I spent the night. Mistra, April 4-I arrived here after a very long journey. We left Tripolitza about 3 o'clock in the morning, and reached Mistra only an hour before sunset. After crossing the Plain of Tripolitza, we first descended to the dry channel of winter-streams, and had uninteresting scenery. Afterward, the climate became genial, and the country beautiful. The shrubs are most ornamental; at one time the hills being white, with a beautiful Erica; at other times yellow, with a showy Spartium. The Arbutus, Evergreen Oak, Mastic, and other shrubs, grow most luxuriantly. I also observed the Anemone Apennina, the Fritillaria Meleagris, a fine species of Iris, and other beautiful flowers. But little cultivation was visible either to-day or yesterday. For the last three years, much land has been suffered to lie waste. The prophecy Isaiah vii. 23, 24, has been almost verified in the Morea; and the traveller adopts the language of Jeremiah (iv. 2, 6), I beheld, and, lo! the fruitful place was a wilderness, and all the cities thereof were broken down. Descending on the Vale of the Eurotas, Mount Taygetus bursts upon the view in a most striking manner. The Eurotas was flowing clear and rapid, and might easily have been forded. We crossed it by a high bridge of one arch. According to the information which is given me, Mistra contained, before the Revolution, 800 houses.* At present, all the Turks are gone, and there are about 150 Christian Families. The Arabs came four times to Mistra; twice unexpectedly they burnt all the houses and churches, whilst the wretched inhabitants fled to the mountains. In one of these expeditions, the Arabs actually ascended to the very summit of Mount Taygetus. 66 April 5, 1828-I find myself amidst the Ruins of ancient Sparta. The place is now called Magoula, being about threequarters-of-an-hour distant from Mistra. The walk is one of the most delightful that can be conceived, leading amidst olive and mulberry plantations and vineyards, and surrounded on all sides by the most enchanting scenery. Add to this, The voice of the nightingale never was mute." And who, except for the ruined hamlets which occurred in the way, would ever have conceived that the tide of war had so recently and so furiously swept over these fields? The ruins cover a considerable space of ground, but have little in them that is striking to a superficial observer. A Theatre is the most remarkable object. The site of the town is now cultivated. The scenery is thus described by Dodwell: All the plains and mountains that I have seen are surpassed, in the variety of their combinations and the beauty of their appearance, by the Plain of Lacedæmon and Mount Taygetus. The landscape may be exceeded in the dimensions of its objects; but what can exceed it in beauty of form and richness of colouring ?" 66 I met with a man amongst the ruins who told me a story which is, I trust, *Pouqueville and Sir William Gell give a much more considerable population. My informants, in regard to the former population, were persons of good information; and the Priests computed the present number of inhabitants, by actually naming and enumerating each family. characteristic of one Moderu Spartan only. He choked one of the Turkish Prisoners at Napoli to death, by applying his fingers to his throat! This method of execution was preferred, in order that no injury might be done to his rich clothing. April 6-This morning, soon after midnight, almost as brisk a fire of musketry commenced as if Ibrahim Pacha was again approaching. In this manner the Greeks were displaying their joy at the arrival of Easter. Long before sun-rise my friends were faring sumptuously on lamb and other dainties, finding such a repast a fine treat after the fast of fifty days. In the afternoon, I accompanied Agallopulos and many other friends to the Metropolis. Here we conversed much with the Bishop and others, and were present at the Vespers. Easter-day is the chief festival of the year in the Greek Church; and the Gospel is chaunted, with innumerable prefaces and repetitions. An accompaniment on the bell had rather a ridiculous effect. For forty days after Easter the common forms of salutation are suspended in Greece; and' in their room are substituted the words, "Christ is risen:" the reply is, "He is risen indeed." It is usual also for the parties to kiss each other; and to present eggs, coloured red. In the evening, I rode up to the Castle, with the General, George Iatrakos, and spent the night with him. April 7-I visited the ancient Amyclæ, now called Sklavo-chori. The ride was exceedingly delightful, leading through the Village of Agianni, and over the plains of the Eurotas. Passing under the olivetrees, I noticed, as I have frequently done before, how easily the accident which befel Absalom might actually occur. It is necessary to be continually on one's guard against the branches of trees; and when the hair is worn in large locks floating down the back, as was the case with a young man of the party, any thick boughs interposing in the path might easily dislodge a rider from his seat, and catch hold of his flowing hair. The custom of wearing the hair exceedingly long, which St. Paul condemns as effeminate, in his First Epistle to the Corinthians (xi. 14), is still common in Greece, especially amongst the Priesthood. Absalom doubtless wore his hair in this manner (2 Sam. xiv. 26); and Homer celebrates continually the καρηκομόωντες Αχαῖοι.† "Achæans, with the head of flowing hair." |