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to grow up from the root; the rest wards conversed with the Hegoumenos are cut off : and this practice is often and others of the Clergy. I informed called, by the Greeks, CLEANING. After them of the zeal of my countrymen for walking for some time, we arrived at a the extension of Christianity; of tho very interesting object-a forest of le exertions of the Bible Society; of the mon-trees extends up the hills, and conversion of the South-Sea Islands; and affords a most beautiful appearance,
of similar subjects. loaded with its golden fruit. Logothetes I have been greatly shocked with vacomputes that there are more than rious recitals given me relative to the 10,000 lemon-trees : in all directions, state of anarchy in which Hydra has men were employed in gathering the long been placed. A man died here some lemons; but the principal time is De time since who confessed, on his deathcember and January. In time of peace, bed, that he had murdered seventeen cargoes of lemons are sent to Constanti men and one woman. Another Hydriot nople and other places. I was received is still living with impunity, who has at Poros with much hospitality, by Basil killed the father of the Conduriettis, and Budures.
five or six other Greeks: one of these was Hydra.
his brother-in-law. At the breaking out March 19, 1828— According to a calcu of the Revolution, he assassinated all the lation lately made, there are 18,000 Hy
Jews who were in the island, eleven in driots resident in the island : besides number; and he has murdered eleven or these, there are 2000 or 3000 strangers. twelve Turks in cold blood. After various visits, I retired to my March 24-The persons to whom Mr. room, and spent some delightful mo
Brewer and I had entrusted Scriptures for ments: my faith was renewed. I saw sale have not been very active: one of them the evidence for the truth of Christianity has sold five copies of the large, and three in its brightness, and I rejoiced with joy of the small edition : the other, eleven of unspeakable. If I had always such clear the large, and two of the small. I myself conviction in my mind, I should in truth have been more successful; having sold, verify the lines
by means of my servant, during the few “ I tread the world beneath my feet,
days I have spent here, twenty-three coAnd all the earth calls good and great."
pies of the large, and thirty-six of the small
edition. I also sold four copies of Mr. -Heard of a terrible scene, acted
Jowett's Commentary on the Acts of the here during the war. One of the Hy- Apostles, and a considerable number of driot vessels having been blown up by Tracts. To some poor persons I gave a accident, a false report was spread, that few Testaments, and other books, gratis. a Turk, who was on board, had been the
I departed from Hydra thankful for all cause of it. Instantly, 300 Turks, who
the favours which I have received in that were prisoners in the island, were
island. As the weather was exceedbrought forth and massacred: the market- ingly calm, we did not arrive at Kastri place streamed with blood, and the ad- (the ancient Hermione) till after sun-set. jacent sea was crowded with dead bodies.
Kastri. Instances occurred of boys, only ten
March 25- They inform me that there years old, hacking to death athletic Turks
are in Kastri 200 houses. I have been of more than forty years of age. The conversing with the four Priests who live condition of the Youth of Hydra is most here, and with other inhabitants. To each unhappy: there are no Tutors, no Li
of the Priests I presented an Ancient braries, no means of passing their time
Greek Testament, and seven copies of usefully: they seem to grow up in com
the large Testament were purchased : plete inaction. I know not how life can be endured in such a manner.
many more would have been sold, if I
had had them. We walked together over March 23~Having obtained permis- the site of the ancient Hermione: little sion from the Primates to preach, I or nothing remains of all its temples and mounted the pulpit in the principal buildings. Tragopogon porrifolius, ReChurch, after the close of the Liturgy. seda lutea, and many other ornaments of I saw around me a large assembly: the vegetable kingdom, now flower and there was even a considerable number flourish where men
The at the outside. My text was, If the Son ancient town was situated on a peninshall make you free, you will be free indeed. sula, between two excellent harbours : I spoke for about an hour, and after- Kastri is built on a rising ground behind
it. Fevers prevail here in August and who had written to me a very friendly September. The inhabitants are for the Letter whilst I was in Ægina. He most part poor ; and support themselves is one of the most virtuous and either by working as day-labourers, or well-informed Prelates of the Morea. by a few boats which sail to the neigh. We had much interesting conversabouring ports. I found a Schoolmaster tion; and he described to his teaching ancient Greek to twenty scho- sufferings whilst detained a prisoner, Jars; but he was preparing to depart. with the other Bishops, in Tripolitza.
March 26,1828 : Sunday— This morning Having observed that it was the spoils I rose very early, in order to be ready for of Tripolitza which gave rise to the disChurch. The Sermon, however, did not sensions and other evils which proved commence till sun-rise. The bell sounded, so injurious to the Greek cause, he and I found a considerable Congregation added, that this circumstance gave him assembled in the Church, called the Metro to understand the reason why God had polis. After an immense number of Kyrie commanded an utter destruction of the Eleesons, a Priest called out “Begin,” spoils taken at Jericho.. Indeed, the and I accordingly commenced with a short evils which have been occasioned, during prayer. I afterward preached from the the Greek Revolution, by the captive words, Be ye reconciled to God. The peo women and the plunder, seem calcuple, who are almost all of the lower orders, lated to throw some light, not only on the seemed lost in astonishment; being evi- prohibition of spoil, but also on the comdently quite perplexed at hearing a mand of utter extermination laid upon Frank preaching about Christ, whilst the Israelites. The Turkish Women they did not observe him kissing pic- have been a snare even to several of the tures, crossing himself, or performing Greek Bishops ; and they have thereby any other of those actions which they occasioned not only incalculable injury always account the most essential marks to these Ecclesiastics themselves, but of Christianity. I confide in God alone they have also brought infinite scandal for a happy result of my endeavours. on their profession. I walked with a Almost immediately after the Sermon, nephew of the Bishop to a Monastery, went to a Monastery, which is at the di- about a mile distant, at the port. This stance of half-an-hour : an inscription young man informed me, that, during the over the gateway denotes that it is de- three years which the Bishop has resided dicated to our Saviour and the wonder- here, no less than twenty-eight murders working Anargyri. Here I found a con have been perpetrated at Kranidi. In siderable number of Manuscripts, and the Monastery, I looked over a volume spent much time in examining them. of Modern-Greek Sermons : according Amongst the rest, there are two Lection to the table of contents, one of the Disnaries of the Acts of the Apostles and courses shews that 'the Holy Virgin the Epistles. They are evidently of no suffered more than all the Martyrs, and great antiquity, as they are on glazed even more than Christ Himself!' paper with cursive letters and accents. Kranidi has the reputation of being It is not, however, unworthy of notice, an extremely healthy place. It suffers, that both of them omit the disputed pas- however, from the scarcity of water : no sage, 1 John v. 7.
springs are to be met with : a few wells, March 27—Conversing with the He some of which become frequently dry in goumenos and another Caloyer, the lat summer, are the only resource of the inter made a remark, which I have fre- habitants. In Hydra, and Kranidi, quently heard repeated in Greece; viz. where there are no fountains of water, that the English believe in the transmi. but where that precious article must be gration of souls. Whence this idea had obtained from precarious cisterns or its origin, it would be difficult to deter- wells, we understand the force of Jeremine. Another man lately observed, that miah, ii. 13. My people have forsaken he had always understood there were ex me, the fountain of living waters ; and ceedingly few Christians in England. hewed them out cisterns, broken cisterns, Kranidi.
that hold no water. The vicinity of KraThe distance from Kastri to this nidi is cultivated to a considerable explace is
hour-and-a-half. They tent, being chiefly laid out in vin assure me that there are here 700 Many of the inhabitants are also emhouses. Soon after my arrival, I called ployed in maritime pursuits, being celeon Joseph, the Bishop of Andrussa, brated for their seamanship. The com
mon language here, as well as at Hydra lars, and is in excellent order: many and Kastri, is Albanian ; and some of Boys repeated, at léngth, passages of the women understand nothing else: the Scripture History. The Malta Publimen all understand Modern Greek. cations have been much used in this
March 28,1828–This morning, though school. "Called on N. Skuphas, and conI have not mounted a pulpit, I have versed with his sisters. They shewed had an excellent opportunity of preach
Pilgrim's Progress,' and ing the Truth. Having called “Law on Education," which their father the Bishop, he drew me into conversa had sent them from Smyrna. In the tion on Saint Worship, and other prac latter work he had written, Read it tices which need reformation in the once, and twice, and often." Eastern Church: it led to a lengthened April 1-I presented a supply of discussion, in which I found occasion to books, for the School of Demitzani, to lay before the Bishop, and all present, Niketas Kallas, one of the Managing many important truths: I am happy to Committee; and others for the Lancassay, that a very favourable impression terian School in Napoli. appeared to be produced. The Eko
Argos. nomos and others afterward paid me a April 2— I reached this place, from visit. By one of them, I sent a copy of Napoli, in about three hours. Napoli Mr. Jowett's Commentary on the Acts is an unhealthy spot; and though it is of the Apostles to a Hermit residing on much improved by the new police regulathe Island of Belle Poule: he is repré- tions, still it is a dangerous place. Dr. Bailsented as being a very learned man, ly, a French Physician, is said to advise who reads every book which he can pos In Napoli, eat no meat, drink no wine; sibly obtain. I regret, exceedingly, that but as soon as you arrive at Argos, eat I have not with me any more of the and drink whatever you please." I am Modern-Greek Testaments : I might glad to observe a large extent of corn have sold a considerable number at land near Argos ; but I am informed Kastri and Kranidi. I distributed a few that much less than usual is this year of the Hellenic, which I had remaining. cultivated. Too often the proverb has I spent nearly three hours with the been literally verified, in regard to Bishop, and find much reason to rejoice Greece-One soweth, and another reapeth in the friendly disposition which he (John iv. 37). manifests. He intimated his intention of
Approaching Argos, we found the Pacorresponding with me. I was particu- nitza flowing with water, but the Xerias larly delighted to find that the Com- (Inachus) dry. Last winter, two boys mentary on the Acts, which I had sent were drowned in the Inachus, attempting him from Ægina, had afforded him the to cross it when the waters were high. greatest satisfaction. He could scarcely I have found here three Schools, each of find words strong enough to express his them with about twenty scholars; and admiration of it: he preferred it much to distributed Tracts amongst them. Two their own Commentaries.
of the Demogerontes and the Politarch Napoli di Romania.
called upon me. After giving them March 29–For the second time, I find books, one of them read aloud the whole myself in this celebrated fortress. We of the February Number of the “Philansailed from the port of Kranidi at eight thropist.” The Politarch, whose tall o'clock, and in six hours arrived here. and martial figure appears to have raised
March 30—I have distributed several him to his post, inquired whether any copies of Lord Lyttleton on St. Paul, reward after death was to be expected, and of Bishop Porteus's Evidences for fighting in defence of country and rebooks which I find of great value in the ligion. I examined the Oracular Cave present crisis.
described by Dr. Clarke. The fictile March 31-Since I was in Napoli, superstructure and altar have entirely our Agent has sold all the Scriptures disappeared; but the cavern, which was with which he was entrusted; viz. 30 employed to delude the superstitious small Testaments, 17 large, and one multitude, still remains. It would have Hellenic; and he has paid me, deducting been well if such delusions had been the per-centage, 124 piastres, 30 paras. practised by the Antients only; but the I hope soon to send him a much larger history of Modern Greece would, I fear, supply. Visited with much pleasure the be a much longer catalogue of lying Lancasterian School : it has 170 scho wonders.
Niketas, one of the most celebrated in reaching Tripolitza. The road is, for Chieftains of the Morea, is here at pre the most part, dreary; leading over lofty sent. On account of his warlike deeds, he and barren hills, the principal of which is has received the appellation Tupkopávos, Mount Parthenius. In England, where “Turk-eater.” He described to me, with the roads are so excellent, we do not much interest, some of his most cele readily perceive the force and just apbrated achievements. He estimates the plication of the Scriptural figures, derived loss of the Turks at Dervenaki and the from a stone of stumbling, and rock of ofother Pass, in which he engaged the fence (Isaiah viii. 14. and similar pas. Pacha of Drama, at 6000 men. Like sages); but in the East, where the roads Kolokotroni, he was formerly in Gene are for the most part nothing more than ral Church's regiment, in Zante. He an accustomed track, the constant danger spoke with warmth, as all other Greeks and impediment arising to travellers from do, of the debt of gratitude which stones and rocks fully explain the alluthey owe to Great Britain, for under- sion. Tripolitza is situated on a lofty taking their cause. Captain Hamilton plain, surrounded on all sides by mounhe called Yuxotatrip, “Adopted Father tains; so as strongly to remind me of the of Greece."
words, As the mountains are round about Tripolitxa.
Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about His April 3,1828-Iwrite amidst the Ruins of people, &c. (Psalm cxxv. 2.) The climate Tripolitza. Few places afford more scope is remarkably cold in winter; snow in for serious reflection. View it seven years large quantities, and frost of a severe ago, filled with population, secure and nu description, being frequent. In summer merous-the abode of Beys, Pachas, and it is considered an agreeable residence, every rank of the community. Here the on account of the coolness of the nights. proud Turk stalked along in his fancied The Demogerontes and others treated greatness, little dreaming of the terrible me with kindness. The ruins by which overthrow which so speedily awaited we were surrounded afforded an excelhim. Then behold Tripolitza suddenly lent topic from which to offer serious obfilled with alarm and apprehension, servations; and I directed their attention crowded with refugees, so as probably to a nobler city, to one which hath foun to contain within its walls 40,000 per- dations, whose builder and maker is God. sons, and enduring a blockade of seven I also gave him some books for the Lanmonths! Next, the tremendous cata casterian School, which they, intend to strophe !-thousands upon thousands are renew. In the precincts of one of the slaughtered, thousands are reduced to principal Mosques, an apartment forslavery — the streets literally flowed merly occupied by one of the attendants with blood! Immediately followed a employed in Mussulman Worship had in visitation of Providence on the infu- part escaped destruction: here I spent riated victors-a pestilence, which ex the night. tended itself to the most-distant parts of
Mistra, the Morea, and which carried off five or April 4—I arrived here after a six thousand souls! Afterward, Tripo- very long journey. We left Tripolitza. litza becomes a flourishing Greek town; about 3 o'clock in the morning, and and is, apparently, given up to the same reached Mistra only an hour before sunfatal security which before had seized set. After crossing the Plain of Tripolitza, the Turks. But suddenly the news is we first descended to the dry channel brought that Ibrahim Pacha approaches of winter-streams, and had uninteresting the town is evacuated-the spoil is left scenery. Afterward, the climate became for the conqueror, and once more Tripo- genial, and the country beautiful. The litza is a Mussulman possession. Last shrubs are most ornamental; at one time of all, but thirty-seven days ago, the the hills being white, with a beautiful Arab army abandons the place, but not Erica; at other times yellow, with a till it had utterly destroyed every build- showy Spartium. The Arbutus, Evering within it! Tripolitza is now empty, green Oak, Mastic, and other shrubs, and void, and waste (Nahum ii. 10); grow most luxuriantly. I also observed but the poor Greeks are beginning to the Anemone Apennina, the Fritillaria flock again to their desolate houses, and Meleagris, a fine species of Iris, and once more hope for peace and security. other beautiful flowers. But little cul
We set out from Argos very early in tivation was visible either to-day or yesthe morning, and were almost 11 hours terday. For the last three years, much
land has been suffered to lie waste. The characteristic of one Moder Spartan prophecy Isaiah vii. 23, 24, has been al- only. He choked one of the Turkish most verified in the Morea; and the tra. Prisoners at Napoli to death, by applyveller adopts the language of Jeremiah ing his fingers to his throat! This me(iv. 2, 6), 1 beheld, and, lo! the fruitful thod of execution was preferred, in order place was a wilderness, and all the cities that no injury might be done to his richt thereof were broken down. Descending clothing. on the Vale of the Eurotas, Mount Tay April 6- This morning, soon after midgetus bursts upon the view in a most night, almost as brisk a fire of musketry striking manner. The Eurotas was flow commenced as if Ibrahim Pacha was again ing clear and rapid, and might easily have approaching. In this manner the Greeks been forded. We crossed it by a high were displaying their joy at the arrival bridge of one arch.
of Easter. Long before sun-rise my According to the information which is friends were faring sumptuously on lamb given me, Mistra contained, before and other dainties, finding such a repast the Revolution, 800 houses.* At pre a fine treat after the fast of fifty days. sent, all the Turks are gone, and there In the afternoon, I accompanied Agallo are about 150 Christian Families. The' pulos and many other friends to the Me Arabs came four times to Mistra; twice tropolis. Here we conversed much with unexpectedly : they burnt all the houses the Bishop and others, and were present and churches, whilst the wretched inha at the Vespers. Easter-day is the chief bitants fled to the mountains. In one festival of the year in the Greek Church; of these expeditions, the Arabs actually and the Gospel is chaunted, witli innuascended to the very summit of Mount merable prefaces and repetitions. Ar Taygetus.
accompaniment on the beli haď rather a April 5, 1828 —I find myself amidst ridiculous effect. For forty days after the Ruins of ancient Sparta. The place is Easter the common forms of salutation: now called Magoula, being about three are suspended in Greece; and in their quarters-of-an-hour distant from Mistra. room are substituted the words, “Christ The walk is one of the most delightful that is risen :" the reply is, “He is risen incan be conceived, leading amidst olive and deed." It is usual also for the parties mulberry plantations and vineyards, and to kiss each other; and to present eggs, surrounded on all sides by the most en coloured red. In the evening, I rode up chanting scenery. Add to this, “The to the Castle, with the General, George voice of the nightingale never was mute.” Iatrakos, and spent the night with him. And who, except for the ruined hamlets April 7-I visited the ancient Amyclæ, which occurred in the way, would ever now called Sklavo-chori. The ride was exhave conceived that the tide of war had ceedingly delightful, leading through the so recently and so furiously swept over Village of Agianni, and over the plains of these fields ? The ruins cover a conside the Eurotas. Passing under the oliverable space of ground, but have little in trees, I noticed, as I have frequently done them that is striking to a superficial ob- before, how easily the accident which
A Theatre is the most remark befel Absalom might actually occur. It able object. The site of the town is now is necessary to be continually on one's cultivated. The scenery is thus de- guard against the branches of trees; and scribed by Dodwell: * All the plains when the hair is worn in large locks and mountains that I have seen are sur floating down the back, as was the case passed, in the variety of their combina- with a young man of the party, any thick tions and the beauty of their appearance, boughs interposing in the path migkt by the Plain of Lacedæmon and Mount easily dislodge a rider from his seat, and Taygetus. The landscape may be ex catch hold of his flowing hair. The cusceeded in the dimensions of its objects; tom of wearing the hair exceedingly long, but what can exceed it in beauty of form which St. Paul condemns as effeminate, in and richness of colouring?"
his First Epistle to the Corinthians (xi. I met with a man amongst the ruins 14), is still common in Greece, especially who told me a story which is, I trust, amongst the Priesthood. Absalom doubt
less wore his hair in this manner (2 Sam. * Pouqueville and Sir William Gell give a much more considerable population. My inforinants, in
xiv. 26); and Homer celebrates continuregard to the former population, were persons of ally the καρηκομόωντες Αχαίοι.t good information; and the Priests computed the present number of inhabitants, by actually naming and enumerating each family.
+ “ Achæans, with the head of Aowing hair."