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Agianni has still 80 families : before left the Eurotas at the Village of GeorIbrahim Pacha's arrival it had 100. We gitza. Here we were overtaken by a very passed by a Turkish tower-like residence heavy rain, which we were obliged to about one hour further, in which fifteen bear patiently for more than an hour. Greeks kept Ibrahim Pacha's army at At length we reached the Mill of Lobay for fifteen days; and, last of all, gara, where we found shelter for the when he was on the point of blowing night. The Village of Longanico is an them up with a mine, they effected their hour distant. In the mill, I met with a escape to the mountains, in the night. Caloyer from the Monastery of St. Small towers of this description abound George, which is four hours distant, on in Greece; and they are frequently the mountains. He could not read; but mentioned in the Scriptures (Matt. xxi. I sent some Tracts by him to the He33. Luke xiii. 4. xiv. 28; and in the Old goumenos. He told us, that the other day Testament). Silk is a very important a wolf in the neighbourhood had deproduction of the province of Mistra: stroyed eighteen sheep. Oh! that there before the Revolution, 18,000 okkas were had been no wolves of another and a yielded annually; at present, only 7000 worse description in these countries ! or 8000
but, alas ! some of those who have asI have distributed a considerable num sumed to themselves the office of Chris.ber of books in Mistra, and hope to send tian Teachers, must be referred to the many more from Napoli: I have also number of those of whom St. Paul prosent books to the villages of this pro- phesied, Acts xx. 29—After my departing vince. In the whole province of Mistra shall grievous wolves enter in among you,. there are said to be 30,000 souls. not sparing the flock.
In the evening, I walked up to the "Wolves shall succeed for Teachers, grievous Metropolis, to take leave of the Bishop. wolves, He pressed me so strongly to spend the
Who all the sacred mysteries of Heaven
To their own vile advantages shall turn, night with him, that I could not refuse.
Of lucre and ambition." ** My visit afforded me such an oppor
April 10-Every thing reminds me that tunity of making known the Truth as I
I am in Arcadia: the country all the way always highly value. The Bishop was
to Leondari is enchanting: Nature apvery inquisitive on religious subjects;
in all her wildness: the whole land,
pears and I was enabled to inform him of the
hills, and dales, is a beautiful forest, or most important points of difference be
rather a natural park. The spaces between our respective Churches, with
tween the trees are occupied by pasgreat freedom. The permission, which Protestant Bishops and Clergymen have ture-grounds, where the shepherds feed
their flocks : they have, invariably, to marry, appeared extraordinary to him and his attendants : he approved of the large crook, which we observe in it, however, and spoke of an Eighth pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses.
At Leondari we find the same desolaGeneral Council, when the same liberty
tion which everywhere else marks the would be given to themselves. I met with much hospitality and friendship at steps of Ibrahim Pacha. A few houses
have lately been rendered tenantable. Mistra; and feel convinced that such
I observed several ancient and almost amicable intercourse with the Greeks may, by the Divine Blessing, be greatly the Castle of Mistra : one of them
ruined Churches, resembling those near serviceable to the cause of Truth. If the
served as a Mosque before the RevoluGreeks are not hindered by their Go
tion: now, again, it has become a Chrisvernment, I believe there will soon be
tian Temple. Before the war, there were a wide and effectual door open amongst
at Leondari 50 or 60 Grecian Families, them.
and 200 Turkish: now about 20 Greek Leondari.
Families have re-assembled. My prinApril 3, 1828—The Bishop, at parting, requested me to write to him." At cipal acquaintance here is the Oekono
mos Panagiotteo : he is a mild, pleasing eight o'clock, started for Leondari. After reaching the Eurotas, we pro
character. I presented him with a few
books for the people, and engaged to ceeded, for a considerable distance, along its banks : it is beautifully fringed house I met with twelve or thirteen
send him more from Napoli. In his with the Platanus, with poplars, and other
ragged peasants; and delivered a Distrees: villages appear to the left, on the declivities of the mountains. We
* Milton's Paradise Lost, Book xii. 503. (RECORD, May, 1830.]
coarse to them, to which they listened rains. The cavern, which was the object with much attention. Here, as every of our expedition, is in the face of the where, I gladly embrace every oppor- rock, and it was not without danger that tunity of testifying repentance towards God, we scrambled up to it: we entered it to and faith towards our Lord Jesus Christ. a considerable distance, without reaching Karitena.
the extremity. In this cave, no less than April 11, 1828 - From Leondari we 1000 persons, by actual enumeration, crossed the Plain of Megalopolis, to found shelter. They had provisions for Karitena: the journey employed us five months; and when the Arabs came six hours. The Ruins of Megalopolis and fired at the mouth of the cavern from were a short distance to the right, the crest of the rock, they laughed at their situation being marked by a soli- their efforts. The Israelites in ancient tary cypress : on the left was Mount times resorted to similar means of deLycæus. About half way, we reached fence, Judges vi. 2. 1 Sam. xlii. 6. Isaiah the Alpheus, and crossed it just below ii. 19. From one of the rocks above, the Karitena. Immediately after my arrival Greeks precipitated a poor Arab PriI gave away a few Tracts : but I soon
My attendant assured me that had reason to repent this proceeding, for his limbs parted from his body before he the house was almost instantly beset by reached the bottom. an immense number of boys, clamorous At Karitena, it is still usual for schoolfor books. I was unable to satisfy them, boys to have a small clean board, on which as my stock is but small.
Went up to the master writes the Alphabet, or any the Castle which Kolokotroni has lately other lesson which he intends his scholars built, and visited his mother : the old to read. As soon as one lesson is finished, lady had with her a little boy, her great- the writing is marked out, or scraped out; grandson. I was rather amused to and the board may thus be continually hear her always designating her son, the employed for writing new lessons. Not celebrated Chieftain, by the appellation, only does this instrument harmonize, in
The Old Man." She soon began con its use, with the writing-table mentioned versing concerning “the Almighty;" and Luke i. 63, but the Greeks call it by the thus afforded me an opportunity of shew Very same name, πινακίδιον.* ing the importance of having that Great April 13-I preached in the principal Being for our Friend. She requested Church, from the words, If ye then be one of the Captains, who was present, risen with Christ, seek those things which are to give me the answer.
above: but I lament to say, that I preached April 12–Before the Revolution, there without energy and effect. Of what imwere in Karitena 200 houses; of which 36 portance it is for a Minister of the Gowere Turkish, the rest Greeks : there are spel to have his own mind always deeply now only 82 families here. In the pro- affected by those important truths which vince are 140 Villages, which Spilios he proclaims to others ! then, and then Kolas counted off to me on his string of only, will his words fall with weight upon beads. The province may contain 30,000 the hearts of his hearers. souls. Kolokotroni having informed me, be more awful,” says Baxter,
than a in Ægina, that I should see at Karitena dead preacher preaching to dead hearers
the retreats of the Greeks,” I to-day the living truths of the Living God!” went to ex ne one of them. The ex- May such a character be never applicursion has been a most extraordinary cable to myself or any other Missionary!
After descending a steep path, The Greeks observe those early habits, almost to the channel of the Alpheus, we in regard to the time of Divine Service, turned off upon the right bank, climbing of which we find 'such frequent mention along the edge of a dangerous precipice, in the Sacred Writings. They have ge and having precipices far more tremen nerally finished their Liturgy before an dous impending over our heads. The Englishman leaves his bed : hence, at scenery is most romantic: on both sides, Hydra, Karitena, and other places where the river has three abrupt banks; they I have preached in the Churches, I have terminate in hills of great height, and been literally in the situation of the Proare adorned with the most beautiful phets, rising up early and speaking unto forest scenery. The river rolls between, them (Jerem. vii. 13). In Karitena I contracted into a very narrow channel ; and, at this time, it was rolling tumul
* I have since found that this Writing-table is tuously along, being swollen by the late
" What can
common in other Greek Schools.
left fifty Tracts, for distribution, with the script of St. Matthew; and various others, Oekonomos; besides others which I gave containing Discourses of different Fathers. to a schoolmaster.
Demitzani. Soon after the Service, I set out for the Walked from the Philosophou to DemitMonastery of Kalami : the road leads zani. To my surprise, on approaching the over picturesque hills and dales. Near to town, a large portion of the inhabitants, the Monastery, we came, to my surprise, headed by the Priests, came out to meet to very extensive ruins of polygonal ma Bells also were rung; and patasonry: they are the remains of the ancient raroes fired. Little more could have been Gortys. After conversing for a short time done, had the Governor himself arrived : with the three or four Monks in the Mo such a reception as this I felt to be somenastery of Kalami, we proceeded to the thing more than is suitable to a MissioMonastery of Agianni. Leaving the nary, and would gladly have dispensed little Church of St. Andrew, which is with it. It gave me, however, an opporsituated on the banks of the Gortyna, tunity of addressing a great part of these, we ascended one of the most romantic my kind friends, on the subject of Religlens which I ever beheld. On both gion; and they listened with seriousness. sides, the rocks tower to a prodigious With two of the principal Priests I have height, having their precipitous faces had some free conversation, and, I am adorned by the most elegant sylvan happy to say, with good effect. I scenery. Down this tremendous height laboured to shew them that the imfall very beautiful cascades : at the bot portant part of Religion was not either tom of the abyss, the Gortyna roars and the immersing or sprinkling in Baptism; dashes along, more frequently heard than nor even whether the Holy Spirit proseen. In the face of the rocks are many ceeded from the Father only, or from the of those caves in which, for the last Father and the Son conjointly; but that three years, the Greeks have found re it consisted in a genuine conversion of the fuge from Ibrahim Pacha. Most of disposition and character of men. them have the entrance in part walled The School of Demitzani is by far the up; and their situation and form give most celebrated in the Morea. It was them, in some degree, the appearance established 65 years ago, by Hadji Gerasiof martins' nests. The Monastery of mo. The first master was Agapius. From
Agianni itself is else than one of all quarters, scholars resorted hither; and these caverns,
with its exterior built up there were sometimes as inany as 220. on a larger scale : it required no small Many Bishops and other distinguished toil to reach it. Here we found three or characters were educated here : among four Caloyers, and several families which the rest, Gregorius the Patriarch, who had fled hither for refuge in these trouble was put to death by the Grand Signior. some times. “Never,” they said, “had There was formerly a library of about a Frank made his appearance there 1500 volumes connected with the School; before.” I delivered to them a discourse but great part of the books have perished, on the danger of an unconverted state: having been used for making cartridges they listened with much attention. The at the siege of Tripolitza. distance from hence to the Monastery of There are about 350 houses in Demitza. Philosophou, could we have employed ni, and most happily they have escaped wings to fly across the valley, is short; that general ruin in which almost every but we had to descend and ascend, to other part of the country has been in cross the foaming Gortyna on a tree volved. There are at Demitzani several thrown across it, to climb over most powder-mills : the inhabitants, however, abrupt and dangerous precipices, and to acknowledge that they cannot produce wander about in a thick forest without gunpowder equal to the European. footpath. At last, after many a weary
Zatouna. step, we reached the Monastery: our April 15—I walked over to Zatouna, a horses had gone round, from the Church neighbouring village of about 150 famiof St. Andrew's, by another road.
lies, and was received with equal or even April 14, 1828—In the Monastery of with greater honours than at Demitzani. Philosophou I have found several Manu- The Priests and principal inhabitants scripts. One of them is a fine Lectionary met me on the brow of the hill, from of the Gospels, on vellum, and held in which their village first makes its appeargreat veneration, as a miracle-working ance; and, with bell-ringing and firing of Gospel. There is also on vellam, a Manu- patararoes, accompanied me to the Church.
Here all joined in singing an Easter tain from the duties of marriage; to Hymn; which ended with the accustomed give up all Turkish property which had chaunt for the three Sovereigns who fallen into their hands; and to use have so happily interfered for the wel no other weapon than the sign of the fare of Greece. It was truly affecting Cross. He solemnly assured the misto observe the enthusiastic manner in guided multitudes, that in this manner which they implored long life on these the Turks would all perish, and themtheir benefactors. As I had now a Con- selves would be defended from on high. gregation assembled before me, I de- I should myself have been rather dislivered a regular Discourse from the posed to consider the man as deceived, Bishop's seat, pressing upon them those than a deceiver, were it not for the iminfinitely important interests, in compa mense sums of money which he amassed rison of which, all else is less than non by means of his preaching. I have thing, and vanity. I also gave them an been assured that he collected no less account of the Bible Society, and urged than 700,000 piastres, the offerings of the importance of procuring and studying the enthusiastic multitudes. Their eyes the Holy Scriptures. I am sorry to find were opened when Ibrahim Pacha came that at Zatouna the old divisions have and put the old man to death, and took not yet ceased; but they complained possession of his treasures. much to me of some individuals who dis April 17 - This morning I enjoyturb the peace of the community: they ed much freedom in preaching in the have actually excommunicated five of principal Church, and warned my hearers them, and taken other steps of a nature of their danger, and admonished them, rather too violent. Before I departed, I that in no other name under heaven distributed Tracts amongst the Children could they hope for salvation, except the of the School: 60 or 70 of them were Name of Christ. assembled.
In Livargi are about 150 houses. A valuable relic of the Library of De From Ibrahim Pacha they have suffered mitzani still remains; viz. a beautiful nothing; as they submitted to the Turks, Manuscript of the Homilies of St. Basil. or “worshipped,” according to the comIt is on vellum, large folio, beautifully il mon expression. From their own counluminated. I have also found a volume trymen, however, they met with severe containing several Manuscripts bound up sufferings : Sisinnes and Gennæos came, together. That which is most beautifully and, according to their account, ruined written is the Aphorisms of Hippocra- them by exactions. Here is a Schooltes ;” another is the “Melissa (Bee) of master, with about forty scholars: I gave Antonius.” The latter was written, ás him Tracts. The inhabitants have also the copyist testifies, in the year 1587. resolved to establish a Public School, Livargi.
and have engaged a Master. April 16, 1828– We set out about two April 18–I feel persuaded that a very hours before day-light; and at sun-set ar serious religious impression has been prorived at the Village of Livargi. On the duced on many persons in Livargi. May way we crossed the River Rophias (the it be permanent! I proceeded to the Moancient Ladon), one of the finest streams nastery of Sopato, and found here a conin Peloponnesus. All along its banks, siderable number of vellum Manuscripts plane-trees abound, deriving nourishment of the Fathers. Had any Traveller the from its waters. They strongly remind me time to examine the Manuscripts which of the beautiful similitudes in the First still exist in Greece, believe he might Psalm, and in Jeremiah xvii. 8. In the find some valuable relics. At Sopato East, this and various other Scriptural are about 150 houses. images, which are furnished by the pe
Kalavrita. culiarity of the climate, are well under April 19–The road to Kalavrita is at stood. In our own country,where moisture first mountainous; and all the hills are never fails, their force is not perceived. adorned with forests. We found scarcely
Approaching Tripotama, we saw, on any thing but ruins in the town of Kathe left, the Monastery erected by the lavrita: before the Revolution it had Monk who lately became so famous about 800 houses, Turkish and Greek. throughout the Morea. This old man I noticed that the Greeks had treated a preached to the Greeks to abstain from large Mosque here as we find that the theft and other sins, and strongly pressed Israelites, under Jehu, treated the Temupon them to fast perpetually; to abs-ple of Baal, 2 Kings x. 27.
this Church the privilege of PhiladelWe arrived in the evening at Megas- phia (Rev. iii. 8), Behold, I have set bepelaion. This is by far the most exten- fore thee an open door, and no man can sive Monastic Establishment in the Mo- shut it! and may all those who are perrea. It contains 150 Monks. During the mitted, as Heralds of the Gospel, to ocRevolution, it has become a species of cupy this sacred opportunity of doing fortress, having a very strong position. good, be men filled with the most tender There were assembled here no less than affection towards the members of this 5000 Refugees; and though Ibrahim communion; and endowed with such Pacha came twice and made attempts heavenly wisdom, and aided by such upon them, he was unable to effect divine power, that they may be enabled any thing. The Caloyers informed me
to apply the Oriental Church, the that the Monastery was founded 1400 words of the Prophet, Arise, shine, for years ago; but their papers are lost. thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord The great attraction to Megaspe- is risen upon thee ! laion is a celebrated picture of the April 21–With Germanos and others, Panagia, which they seriously believe to I have had valuable opportunities of be the workmanship of the Evangelist pointing out the leading errors of the Luke. A considerable part of the Mo. Greeks: when questioned by them on nastery is, as its name denotes, “a Large various subjects, I declared my faith, and Cave:" a striking precipice of 400 feet gave my reasons for it. When truth is impends so far over it, as almost to developed in this friendly manner, I find secure it from any annoyance from the effect good. above; and it is surrounded by the most
Phonia. romantic scenery.
Our journey to-day has been of a most April 20, 1828 : Sunday - This morn mountainous description. We reached ing I preached in the Church, from these the region of snow, and looked down words—If ye then be rison with Christ, upon the Gulf of Lepanto. The comseek those things which are above. A very mon Crocus, the Fumaria Bulbosa, a large number of persons was present, Hyacinth, and many other plants, were not only of the Caloyers, but also of the flowering beautifully on the very verge Refugees. They listened with great at of the snow. We traversed extensive tention.
Pine Forests; and, after descending from Let me record it as an instance of pes the lofty mountain of Chelmos, we found culiar liberality in the Oriental Church a very populous country. In all direcand in the Greek Nation, that a Protes- tions, villages appeared beautifully situtant Minister has been permitted often ated: the principal is Klouchines. On to preach in their Churches, and even one of the neighbouring summits of Chelat the most solemn Services of their Re mos, one of the greatest disasters befel ligion. At Egina, I preached four times, the Greeks which they have experienced with the sanction of the President of the at the hand of Ibrahim Pacha. A vast, Legislative Body, and with many mem concourse of people had fled to that lofty bers of that very body for my hearers : eminenee, supposing that it would prove in that instance the Laity shewed their inaccessible to the Arabs: but, unhapliberality. At other times, I have met pily, the words of Jeremiah were litewith a similar display of good feeling on rally applicable to them— Truly, in vain the part of the Clergy. The most pecu is salvation hoped for from the hills and liar example of the latter description oc- from the multitude of mountains (iii. 23). curred on this occasion, in the large Neither rocks nor snows prevented the Monastery of Megaspelaion. Here I Arabs from springing, like wolves, upon preached to a Congregation of probably their prey; and hundreds of the poor more than 100 Monks, with the sanction Greeks were precipitated headlong down of the Superiors of the Monastery, and the rocks, and hundreds led away into in that very Chapel where they preserve captivity. and worship the picture of the Virgin The women, in these parts, are of a which is attributed to the pencil of St.
most laborious character: they are everyLuke. Whatever may be the future where seen at work in the fields, and the state of Greece, I shall always cherish most toilsome employments of agriculture amongst my fondest remembrances these are performed by their hands. The men, instances of kindly feeling ; and I shall as I am informed, leave them for five earnestly pray, May God bestow on months or more in the year; and are