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ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE AT ROME.

children, three of whom are committed to the care of each nun; but few are reared.

November 7. Elizabeth, Richard, and I, have had a delightful walk on the Trinita di Monte, between rows of acacia. This garden, &c. is one of the magnificent works of the French. The su shone so brightly, and the influence of its beams was so powerful, that we could bear no heavier clothing than that which we generally wear in

summer.

LETTER XV.

Rome, Sunday, November 14, 1819.

WE have had the privilege of hearing our churc service, and a sermon preached by the Rev. Mr. ———, an English clergyman. Apartments were taken for the purpose, in a house near the Colonna Trajana, and this is the third winter in which they have been so employed.

November 18. This day the Abbe Taylor's funeral procession passed down the Corso, at the head of it were a number of priests in long black cloaks and hoods, their faces covered with a cowl; after them came a great company of barefooted Carmelites, their garments of coarse brown cloth

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descending to the feet, and tied with a rope round the waist; the cowl of the same material, covering the head and face, with holes cut for the eyes and mouth, and sandals on the feet; they were followed by another company like the first, and after them a larger company of priests; then the bier on which the body lay dressed as when living, the face and feet uncovered. Priests surrounding it, bearing lighted torches, and all the while singing a solemn requiem, in which the whole procession joined, as they passed slowly on to the church, where the body will remain on a catafalque, until a sufficient number of masses shall be said for the soul, and then the last rites will be performed. Processions of this description pass daily along the Corso, and only vary in the dress; that of the monks and priests according to their order, and that of the deceased according to rank and circumstances: sometimes the poor inanimate form is decorated with jewels and richly embroidered satin. We have been told that the first nobility, as a penance, frequently walk in these processions in the dress of the barefooted Carmelites; and, by that slight punishment, unknown to any but themselves and their confessors, make expiation for manifold and aggravated offences. O what a religion of gross errors! When will the light of truth dawn upon these benighted minds, to teach them that vain ceremonies will never appease the wrath of an omniscient Judge, who is of purer eyes than

G

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ROME-PROTESTANT BURIAL-PLACE.

to behold iniquity, and will not pass by the transgressor!

Tuesday, November 23. We visited G's studio, rich in its collection of specimens of inlaid marbles, vases, cups, and urns. After we had seen this, he displayed, what we admired above them all, his beautiful landscape paintings, one of which is a superb view of the Forum Romanum; he then directed our attention to views which he had taken of Killarney, during his residence in Ireland, and with no little satisfaction we saw that they were strikingly beautiful, even among Italian scenery. He spoke of our country and of his delightful abode there, in a rapturous strain; and added, that nothing but the climate, which did not agree with his health, should ever have forced him to leave the Emerald Isle.

We

November 25. I have had a pleasant walk with the children, to see the interesting spot allotted as a burying-place for Protestant foreigners. It is just on the outside of the ancient walls of Rome, part of which still remain in the place where stands the pyramid of Caius Cestius. wandered among the tombs for a considerable time, reading the inscriptions on the stones, which record the early death of many an English youth and maiden, who probably had left their native home with all the buoyant expectation of their years but the gay visions are flown. Here, in this narrow spot, their deserted bodies moulder in

FESTIVAL AT MONTE TESTACCIÓ.

123

the dust, while their mourning parents are obliged to retrace their solitary journey, deprived of those for whose sakes they were probably induced to visit foreign climes. Many such reflections occupied my thoughts as I lingered round this sacred repository of the dead, where no inclosure is permitted to guard the tombs from the insults of bigotry. Many of them have been broken and defaced with mallets by an unrestrained rabble, who claim merit to themselves in thus evincing their detestation of heretics. During the time of their saturnalian festival, elated with wine, they pour down from Monte Testaccio, and conclude the revelry of the day by this sacrilege. This the English and German Protestants could not witness without the most poignant feeling; and they have been instigated to use every effort in their power, (first raising a liberal subscription, which they lodged in the hands of Torlonia, the banker,) to have the place which contains the remains of beloved relatives or friends, enclosed by a wall, railing, or sunken fence; but their repeated applications have hitherto, under different pretexts, met with a decided negative.

Of Monte Testaccio, which beautifully shelters this sequestered spot, I will insert an account written by a friend.

"A festival is held at Monte Testaccio, little known to travellers, but well worthy of observation, from being a remnant of the ancient Saturnalia.

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FESTIVAL AT MONTE TESTACCIO.

Here are the general wine vaults of the city. The air penetrating through the crevices of the broken fragments of pottery, of which this hill is composed, preserves a constant freshness beneath the surface, which fits it peculiarly for this purpose. Each Sunday and Thursday during the month of October, almost the whole population of Rome, rich and poor, throng to this spot, where innumerable tables are covered with refreshments, and the wine is drawn cool from the vaults. It is impossible to conceive a more animating scene than the summit of the hill presents. Gay groups dancing the saltarella, intermingled with the jovial circles which surround the tables; the immense crowd of walkers who, leaving their carriages below, stroll about to enjoy the festive scene; Rome and its environs spread in wide expanse below; the tomb of Caius Cestius, and even the tombs of the Protestants, which, though forming a contrast to the general gaiety of the scene, add a touching interest, not unpleasing to a feeling mind. Here Pinelli regularly attends to obtain subjects for his characteristic pencil, and may be seen every afternoon, accompanied by his two faithful mastiffs."

Saturday, November 27. The clergyman who has so kindly officiated for the English every Sunday, received a message this day from the Duchess of D, expressing a wish to see him without delay, on a business of the utmost importance. On his obeying her summons, he found that it was to