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CHURCH OF ST. DOMINICO.

another signal being given, as slowly as it had lowered itself, and began a gentle and measured pace, the man guiding it by a halter, which was fastened to its head. Richard, in his exalted situation, looked like a fly. At the accustomed signal, the obedient camel again sunk on his knees to be unburthened, and we saw with admiration how he suffered himself to be governed by a being so greatly his inferior in size and strength. Thus it is ordered by the omnipotent Creator, who gave to man the dominion over the fish of the sea, the fowl of the air, over the cattle, and over all the earth!

The church of St. Dominico is adorned with paintings by Tempesta, representing the history of Santa Clara, the foundress of an adjoining convent. The fresco ceiling is painted by some other artist, and depicts the Cross which spoke to a person kneeling before it, bidding him carry it from the Duomo of Sienna, where it then was, to Pisa, where it wished to be; which being done, all the bells in the town began to ring of themselves, the moment it was brought within the gates; and Santa Clara, with all her nuns, came to meet it, and accompany the escort which conveyed it, to the chapel of her convent, where it still remains with the sarcophagus before it, which contains the body of Santa Clara. We were permitted to look at both through an iron grate, over which hangs a crimson damask curtain.

NICE ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE. 317

I am afraid that you will be tired of hearing these foolish stories: I can only say, that I have related to you very few of them indeed, in compa→ rison of what I hear continually.

LETTER XLIV. ́

Pisa, March 21, 1822.

I HEAR that our Church Service is now conducted on a regular plan at Nice. Government has given up a chapel for that purpose. What a revolution in sentiment! Twenty years ago the Inquisition would have interposed its strong arm. At present, it is said, that there are many Protestants, even among the Italians, near Leghorn, though the priests endeavour to persuade them that Protestants are not Christians. The Bible is carefully kept from them, nor can a copy be procured under twenty guineas: it is a great work, consisting of twenty volumes, Latin and Italian; and is, therefore, from its price alone, a sealed book, even to many of the priests themselves. What a blessing might attend the labours of a few missionaries with the Bible in their hands! The Hindoos are scarcely in more need of them. One of our friends, on

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MANNERS AND GOVERNMENT.

hearing some of them say that they had never supposed that we were Christians, translated for them some of the most material doctrines of our Church, which, they said, convinced them that we are better Christians than they could have supposed. Reformation, with all its train of illumination and blessings, would indeed render this place a terrestrial paradise. The sad corruptions which poison the very source of domestic happiness, would then be removed; and men would be seen in company with their wives, giving and receiving mutual proofs of affection, as in our happy land. No woman here is supposed able to walk without the support of an arm, but that arm must not be her husband's. He, in his turn, must guard some other weak creature from the dangers which might await her tottering steps. Some years ago this horrid system was confined to the rich and great; now it has descended to the humble shop-keeper. O may it never pollute the simple peasantry, who now are the most virtuous, and, consequently, the happiest class of people here! The government is lenient, perhaps too much so; since death is never inflicted for any crime. The only difference made between murderers and thieves, is the duration of confinement; the first being condemned for life, the last for a limited period. Murderers, or other malefactors condemned for the highest crimes, are distinguished by wearing yellow jackets. The streets of Pisa, like most of the towns of Italy, are

DULNESS OF PISA.

319

always clean. The galley slaves sweep away all the dust, which otherwise would incommode us; when the rain falls in torrents, it washes the flagging, and in an hour's time you would not know that any had fallen. The English complain much of the dulness of Pisa. To those who love gaiety it must necessarily be dull, for every family comes for the health of some member of it, and of course all evening society beyond quiet tea parties, which end at ten o'clock, is precluded. There is a theatre and opera, but I am told both are below mediocrity.

All our former acquaintances are not like Signor L. Signor F. appeared really glad to see the family again; while he sympathised with us in the great afflictions which we have sustained. He often comes in the evening, and says that he has a strong predilection for English society; his brother has the same, but from conscientious motives gave it up; or rather from strong feelings, for, having adopted the general idea, that there is no salvation for Protestants continuing faithful to their creed, he could not bear to know and to love people in this world whom he believed he had no chance of meeting in the next. They are both gentlemanly in their manner: but none of the young men, even those attending on the Grand Duke, have any air of what we should call fashion. The Duke himself, the archbishop, and some of the canons in their long scarlet robes, have a very dignified appearance. The priests form no small part

320 CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF PISA.

of the population here, as in every other town in Italy. At an ordination which a friend of mine witnessed, he said there were thirty-two little boys, some of whom did not appear to have reached their tenth year, who received the first or the second order of priesthood, and thirty more who received the third. These boys wear white surplices trimmed with lace or muslin, and clerical cocked hats. It is both absurd and melancholy to see such little creatures devoted to they know not what. Upon the whole the general character of the people here is pleasing, though from what we have heard, more than from any thing which we have seen, we think it is not estimable. They appear anxious to oblige, but expect a recompence for every thing. There is a politeness in their mode of expression, and an air of gentility when they accost you with a, "ben levata, Signora ;" or in the evening, "felice notte," for which you might look in vain even amongst a higher class with us. I believe if you do not ascend a single step above the peasantry you may find good virtuous wives, and attentive mothers, who are industrious and cleanly in their habits, to which their neatly furnished cottages bear testimony. The most disgusting objects in the streets are the old women, many of whom without caps, and their grey locks wild and rough, might well have given their ancient poets the idea of the snaky locks of Tisiphone. Eagerness about trifles is a strong characteristic of the Italian women; and they have