. No murmuring billow breaks, but all is hufa'd; But hark! the full affembled owls begin To fhriek their orgies mid't the rocks and woods. We now landed at the first convenient place, and walked on the turnpike road near two miles to Monmouth where we flept, and in the morning took a curfory view of this ancient capital, of this formerly a Welch, but now an English, county. It is fituated at the conflux of the Wye and Munnow, whence it derives its name, it difplays many marks of antiquity, and has been much more flourishing than at prefent. The general white complexion of the houses gives it a neat and animated look; but the only buildings worth notice are the church and town-hall, both very handfome, and the latter may vie with most places of much greater confequence. The Britains called it Mynwy; on the north fide, where it is not guarded by the river, it was originally encompaffed with a strong wall and fofs. In the midst of the town are the ruins of the caftle, which flourished at the conqueft. At that time William the fon of Baderon had the custody of those four carucates of land, within the caftle, which were the king's demefne. Withenock, his fon, furnamed de Monmouth, built a church within the castle, and gave it to the monks of St. Florence, at Salmure in France. His fon Baderon, in the reign of Henry II. granted to the monks at Monmouth, in exchange for Hodonock, three forges, fituate upon the river Wye, free from any toll, paffage, foreftage, or any other custom for the iron made therein. By this it appears, how anciently the iron works before defcribed were carried on in these parts. His grandfon John, baron of Monmouth, who had the cuftody of the castle of Striguil, 15th of Henry III. gave about that time to the monks of St. Florence at Salmure, in pure alms, the hospital of St. John at Monmouth. This nobleman having no iffue male, in confideration of certain lands, which Prince Edward granted him for his life, gave to the faid prince, and his heirs for ever, his caftle and honor of Monmouth, and all other his lands and tenements, which grant was confirmed by the king 13th September, 40th Henry III. and in the 41st of that king he died. From this time it continued in the crown, and enjoyed many privileges; but derived its greatest glory from giving birth to Henry V. (from hence, furnamed of Monmouth) the great conqueror of France, and second ornament of the Lancaftrian family, who, by direct force of arms, fubdued that kingdom, and reduced, Charles VI. to the greateft extremity. This was alfo the birthplace of the famous hiftorian Geffrey of Monmouth, mentioned before as buried at Abingdon. In order to vary these scenes as much as poffible, we difmiffed our boat at Monmouth, and went by land to Tintern-abbey; as the upper part of the river affords most variety in a boat, this plan was undoubtedly the belt. As we proceeded on the road to Chepstow, and paffed Troy-house, a fine old feat of the duke of Beaufort, now only inhabited by a steward and farmer, the autumnal glow of nature, attendant on nocturnal fhowers, gave us the highest idea of the town's charming fituation and scenery, Parody on part of the firft Scene, A&t third, of the Grecian Daughter. VOL. II. G G protected protected on all fides by hills of the fweeteft verdure, even to their utmost fummits, the ftreams of Vaga murmuring at their feet.* As we afcended the hill before us, each progreffive step afforded an infinite variety of waving mountains, vallies and woods, interfperfed with white cots, feats, &c. &c. and backed by the majeftic heads of Sugar-loaf, and Brecknockshire black mountains. Having gained this lofty fummit, we deviated a little to the right of the road, to observe the diftant ruins of Ragland castle, once a most powerful and glorious place. Thomas ap Gwillem ap Jenkin, (ancestor of the Herberts) obtained it by marrying Maud, daughter and heir of Sir John Morley, knt. lord of this caftle and other large poffeffions, in the time of Richard II. from hence it came to the earls of Pembroke, and from them to the earls of Worcester, in the fame manner as Tintern and Chepitow. William, firft marquis of Worcester, maintained this castle with a garrifon of 800 men from 1642, to Auguft 19th, 1646, without receiving any contribution from the country, and then yielded it to Sir Thomas Fairfax upon very honourable terms.. This was among the laft places in England that held out against the rebels. Then it: was that (according to Gilpin's expreffion) "Cromwell laid his iron hand upon it, and fhattered it into ruins; to which it owes it prefent picturesque form." All the timber in these parks that lay near the house, was cut down and fold, which (though there was no coppice wood) amounted by the account of the committee themselves to 37,000 cords of wood. The lead of the caftle was fold for 6,000l. and a great part of the timber to the citizens of Bristol, to rebuild the houses on the bridge there, that had been lately burnt. The lofs to the family, during the troubles, was computed at 100,000l. an estate to the value of 20,000l. per annum being fequeftered, befides what they fold in those neceffitous times.t The aspect from hence became dreary and unpleasant, and the fervency of the noontide fun was now almost as intense as Midfummer, without a fhade to guard us from its powers. We now left the great road at the village of Turlington, and paffed through hollow and uncouth tracks, feldom attempted by any carriages but those of the natives; after a few fpecimens of pleafing reclufe scenery, we enter a profound dell for several miles; a gurgling brook winding through the umbrageous cavity which fupplies a number of large iron works above the village of Abbey-Tintern : Mr. Tanner is the oftenfible manager; the duke of Beaufort the great proprietor. We infpected the principal furnace, and faw the ore, which is moftly brought from that vaft source, at Furness in Lancashire, diffolved by the blaft of immenfe bellows, worked upon the modern construction of cylinder pumps. They have a method of feparating the best qualities from the drofs, by a water wheel and hammers, from which they collect confiderable quantities of pure metal, and the powder fells to the glass-houses for their ufe. Lower down are various forges, for the purpose of striking this mutilated ore, into every requifite fize and form of the broadeft bars to the finest wires. Iron, the most ufeful, and through the wife diftribution of Providence, the most common of all metals, is plentifully found in all parts of the British dominions. It is found in Cornwall, Cumberland, Derbyshire, Devon, Durham, Gloucestershire, "Mon- *Mr. Gray's obfervation on this fweet place is thus found in a letter, dated May 24th, 1771, giving an account of his preceding fammer's tour, in which the river Wye was the principal feature. mouth, (fays he) which is a town I never heard mentioned, lies on the fame river, in a vale, that is the delight of my eyes, and the very feat of pleaure." +From the time this caftle was rendered uninhabitable, the family have fixed their chief refidence at Badminton, in Gloucefterfhire. Hants,. Hants, Kent, Lancashire, Monmouthfhire, Shropshire, Somerfet fhire, Staffordshire, Suffex, Warwickshire, Wiltshire, Yorkshire, and in a great many other parts of North-Britain, Ireland, and in North America. The Romans probably were the first who wrought our mines, their medals having been found amongst the heaps of flags and cinders. The ore hath various appearances; fome is called brush ore, as being composed of threads growing on a red kind of earth, or hanging from the tops of caves, or old works, fome in ftones of a reddifh, blue, or grey colour, fometimes in a fort of ftiff unctuous clay, and fometimes in a black fand.* The veins or loads, like thofe of tin, are of very different dimenfions, and their contents of very different natures, which rather than their fize determine its value. Some ore is roafted before it can be fmelted. This laft operation is performed in a large open furnace, the fuel and ore, being mixed, and the fire kept to the greatest heat by immenfe bellows, moved by a large water wheel. It is from this and other improvements, that our mines yield much more than formerly; when they fcarce made in their foot-blafts or bloomeries, 100 weight in a day, leaving as much or more metal in their flags; whereas they now make several tons of iron in the fame space, and leave a mere cinder. When the metal is melted, it is let out of the receivers into a bed of fand, which hath one large, and several small divifions, in which it cools. The iron in the large divifion is called a fow, and in the smaller, pigs. Pig iron, the metal thus fit for fome ufes, fuch as pots, kettles, bombs, and other coarfe works, is not malleable. In order to give it that neceffary quality, it is carried to the forges, and there heated and hammered in various directions, till the heterogeneous matter, or vitrious impurities being expelled, it is thoroughly incorporated and welded together. From this forge, which is called the finery, it is taken to another called the chafrey, where it is also heated and hammered into large bars. After this it is divided at the flitting mills, and then is ftiled bar iron. In this ftate it is complete as a commodity, and fit for fale; the ufes of which are too many, and too well known to admit or require an explanation.† There are but few forts of iron which, though useful in other refpects, are fit for being converted into fteel. The red iron ore from Furnefs in Lancashire, produces an iron, which is as tough as Spanish iron, it makes very fine wires; but when converted into bars, it is not esteemed fo good as that which is got in the foreft of Dean and other places. The melting or cafting of steel was introduced at Sheffield, about 40 or 50 years ago, by one Waller from London, and was afterwards much practised by one Huntsman, from whom steel so prepared, acquired the name of "Huntsman's caft fteel." It was at first fold for 14d. but may now be had for 10d. a pound; it cofts 3d. a pound in being melted, and for drawing ingots of it into bars of the fize of razors, they pay only 6d. a 100. Before this art was introduced at Sheffield, all the caft fteel used in the kingdom. was brought from Germany. Steel is made from iron by cementation, which by the fkill and industry of the artificers is raised to a very high value in all the finer manufactures, particularly at Woodstock, as we there defcribed. The reafon why we have fo much iron imported, is because the inhabitants of those countries abounding in wood, can make it cheaper. For iron being smelted in an open fire with charcoal, the oil of which is fuppofed to make it tough, few parts of this kingdom can afford the expence. In Colebroke dale, in Shropshire, pit coal has been used with fuccefs, which if generally introduced with the fame fuccefs, would be very advantageous to the nation. *Plot's Natural Hiftory of Staffordshire, p. 150.-Woodward's Hiftory of Foffils, vol. 1. p. 223, &c. - Hill's Hillory of Foffils, p. 629, and Borlafe's Natural History of Cornwall, p. 195, as cited in Campbell's Survey. + Campbell's Survey. Watfon's Chemistry. We now approached the venerable object of our deviation, Tintern Abbey, hid in a moft fequeftered fpot by the river Wye. Before these populous manufactures were here thought of, how paffing excellent muft this fituation have been for monaftic life and difcipline. However thefe iron works have been very anciently in ufe in different parts of the banks of the Wye, as has appeared under Monmouth. The ruins of Furnefs muft yield to Tintern, both in point of picturefque beauty, prefervation, and curiofity; we might gaze with fresh delight and admiration for hours on this perfect skeleton of Gothic architecture The internal dimenfions from eaft to weft are 77 yards, from north to fouth 53. The eaft, weft, north, and fouth windows, and centre arches, are of an equal height 67 feet, the weft window itself is 60. The following is the account given of its origin. This abbey, dedicated to God and the Virgin Mary, was founded about the year 1131, by Walter Fitz-Richard de Clare, lord of Carewen and Monmouthshire. Richard de Clare, furnamed Strongbow (nephew to the founder) gave divers lands and privileges to the abbot and monks hereof, who were of the Ciftercian order, obliging them to pray for their fouls and thofe of his and his wife's anceftors. Roger de Bigot, earl of Norfolk, added to thefe benefactions. It has been famous for the tombs and monuments of feveral great perfons, principally of the aforefaid Walter de Clare; Gilbert, earl of Pembroke, brother to the founder; Walter, earl of Pembroke, and marfhal of England, and his brother Anfelm, laft earl of that family; William Herbert, earl of Pembroke, who being in the difputes between the houfes of York and Lancaster, was taken prifoner in Banbury fight, and being beheaded, lies buried here. Befides the effigy of Gilbert de Clare, which is in good prefervation, and fome others, the key ftones of many arches are feen in a perfect ftate of fine fculpture. The duke of Beaufort takes great delight in having the whole of this magnificent relick preferved, which before was in a state of mouldering obscurity. its fuppreffion the revenues were rated at 1921. is. 4d. per annum The following lines from Mason's English Garden, book first, are a fine poetic picture, applicable to the fcenes we have been defcribing. "In thy fair domain," fays the author, addreffing the genius of his country, "Many a glade is found, The haunt of wood-gods only; where if art And there are fcenes, where, tho' fhe whilom trod, And ruthlefs fuperftition, we now trace Her footsteps with delight; and pleas'd revere Not her, the praife is due; his gradual touch Monaftic, which, when deck'd with all its fpires, Of antique oaks darken thy fide long hills; Dart their white heads, and glitter thro' the gloom; Bear on its brow the fhiver'd fragment huge At Of 1 Of fome old Norman fortrefs; happier far, After a difficult accefs, through a narrow rough lane, to the fummit of the hill which leads to Chepstow, the contraft was more wonderful; from the narrow confines of the wildest dell, and the fecluded haunts of monastic folitude, to the vast expanse that here bursts upon our view; towns, villages, feats and woody lawns, with the noble Severn rolling to the ocean, and thofe iflands called the Holmes, are the objects of this fublime fcenery. Between this and Chepstow ftands Persfield, famous for the much admired walks of the ingenious Mr. Morris, which we now vifited. This place originally belonged to the Rous's, and was bought by Mr. Morris, and beautified moft confonant to the na-tural endowments of rock and water. He enjoyed it till within these three years, most hofpitably inviting all company to partake of its inimitable delights. The grounds are now not in fuch perfection, nor fo extenfive; the whole length of them is about five miles, but fince the prefent purchafer, Mr. Smith, has had the place, one half are grown wild and not at prefent difplayed. He has however begun to open them again, and is greatly altering the whole; whether his new models will be more valued than the originals, time and taste must determine; many of the beautiful ferpentines, I fear, from what we now obferved, will be thrown into ftrait lines. The whole was an advantageous purchase for 26,500l. and this gentleman intends foon to erect a new and excellent manfion. The first view we had after we entered this fcenery of enchantment, was a pleafing fight of Chepstow caftle, cliffs, &c. Alfo Landcaught cliffs and the broad Severn beyond. The next opening, we beheld a wonderful dip of 500 feet perpendicular into the Wye, whofe waters were not fo agreeable and lucid as above, where the briny waves . of ocean had not adulterated them. We next came to a fweet point, called the Pleafant View, truly descriptive of its name. Next from a bench, land-caught woods and rocks were most majestic and fine, the river winding nobly underneath; oppofite the cave are bow railings with a feat, which if we compare the works of nature with those of art, may be called a front box of one of the compleatest theatres in the univerfe; the whole appears from hence a perfect circular theatre, marked out by the furrounding woodfringed cliffs. Here wants no painted canvafs to exprefs its fcenery, nature's fweet: landscape is quite enough, and inftead of an artificial fky depicted over our heads, the blue vault of heaven hangs fublime and lovely. Returning from this we afcended on a path above the cave which leads to a fimilar box to the one defcribed, that is called the Lovers Leap. Having taken a final view of the fcenery from this tremendous precipice, we were conducted to the corner of an adjacent field, where ftands the Temple, commanding a moft glorious profpect in an oppofite direction; the conflux of Wye and Severn, the Briftolchannel opening into the main fea, the fmoke of that great city on the oppofite hores, interfperfed with fnow-white houfes, &c. while the reflexion of the fetting fun gilded their windows, that fhone like real fires; thefe together with other diftant profpects of ftupendous hills on the Welch coaft, the abrupt rocks, immenfe woods, and all the fofter beauties of improvement, confpire to render Persfield a scene that fills the breast with delight and adiniration above all others. Chepflow is a Saxon name, and fignifies a market or place of trading, in British it is called Kafwent, or Caftelh-Gwent. It is a place of no great antiquity, and many affirm that it had its origin not many ages paft, from the ancient city Venta, which flourished about |