Early next morning the fun's bright beams gave a more ferene aspect to the sky, and we journeyed on the next stage to Columpton, fituate on the river Columb; the general tenor of the country was rich, hilly, and extenfive. About half way near the bleak hill of Maiden-down, we pass the divifion of the two counties and enter Devon northeat. Its name fignifies what it really is, a heap of vallies and hills. The foil is various, the hills in these parts naturally barren, and the lower grounds fruitful, but the whole much improved by manure. The air is mild and healthful in the latter, but very fharp on the former, which we now felt; and arrived at Columpton well prepared to enjoy a comfortable breakfast. This is a larger and better market town than the laft, and difplays more of the woollen manufacture; King Alfred bequeathed it to his youngest fon Ethelward, with other lands in this county, Somersetshire, and Hants.

From hence to Exeter we paffed much hilly ground and through a very picturesquevillage of mofs-clad houfes, called Bradninch. Next faw on our right, Sir Thomas Ackland's at Columb-John, a very neat white manfion, beautifully fituated under a wood-crowned knowl, furrounded with a park of deer, and a fine vale in front, graced with the pleafing objects of a lofty village tower, and distant hills. From the fummit of Stock-hill, two miles from Exeter, you have a glorious circular profpect, the ground gradually falling every way from this centre into a deep and beautiful vale, enriched with various feats, villages, and the fair city; the vast circumference rising again to a noble range of verdant mountains, heaped and interfected in most variegated order; while on their diftant tops the fea-mark towers diftinguifh its frontier country, and the river Ex opening towards the fouth winds broadly to the channel. The common traffic and business of this county is moftly done by horfes with panniers and crooks; the former are well known every where, but the latter are peculiar to the west, and are fimply conftructed, with four bent heavy sticks in the shape of panniers, but the ends aukwardly projecting above the rider's head; with these they carry large loads of hay or garden vegetables. The country people ride in a prodigious large boot of wood and leather hung instead of stirrup to the horse's fide, and half open, which they call gambades. Query whether Bunbury did not from hence take the idea of his burlefque horfemanship of Geoffrey Gambado?

The city of Exeter and capital of this county is fituated on a gradual descent on the eaft fide of the river Ex, whence it derives its name, according to an old verfe of Alexander Neckham, once prior of St. Nicholas.

Exoniæ famâ celeberrimus Ifcia nomen
Præbuit.

The Ex, a river of great fame

To Exeter has given name.

It was called by the Britons Pen-Caer and Caer-Ifk, (i. e.) a city on the river Ifc; the Ifca of Ptolemy; the Ifca-Danmoniorum in the Itinerary of Antonine; by the Saxons. Exan-cefter, and now abbreviated to Exeter.

Before we begin to defcribe this city in its prefent ftate, it may not be improper to take fome notice of its antiquity, and alfo the various changes it has undergone at different periods. When Ifca firft fell under the Roman jurifdiction is not clearly afcer-tained. Camden thinks it was not built fo early, as to have been conquered by Vef- pafian, which Geoffry of Monmouth afferts. Yet in the time of the Antonines it was probably of confiderable note; for Antoninus continues his Itinerary to this city, and

4:

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no further. Upon the Saxons invading Britain, fuch as refufed to fubmit fled either beyond the Severn, or to the ancient Danmonii, Devonshire and Cornwall; where they formed a kingdom, which was not fubdued till about 400 years after. During the reign of Alfred, the Britons in this county were fo overcome as to join in affifting that hero, when he drove the Danes from Exeter: but in 875 they returned with great violence, plundered and fet fire to the city. This however was a trifling calamity to what it fuffered in 1c03, (being betrayed by one Hugh, a Norman, the governour :) when it was laid level from the east to the weft gate, and the whole inhabitants massacred in the moft cruel manner, by Sueno, the Dane, and his horrid barbarians. It had searce time to recruit when William the Conqueror took poffeffion of it, after a clofe fiege and obftinate refiftance. At that time (according to the furvey) “ the king had in this city 300 houfes: it paid 15 pounds a year, 48 houfes were deftroyed after the king came into England." After this it withstood three violent fieges, first by Hugh Courtney, earl of Devon, in the civil war between the houfes of York and Lancafter. Again, Perkin Warbeck, declaring hiinfelf to be Richard duke of York, fecond fon of King Edward IVth, violently attacked this city, but the people believing him to be an impoftor, defended themselves with great bravery, till Edward Courtney raised an army and relieved them. For this valiant oppofition, Henry VIIth, with an unufual effort of his nature, paid the citizens a vifit, bestowed on them great commendations, and left them his fword he then wore, to be carried before the mayor on public occafions, and alfo gave them a cap of maintenance. He lodged at the treasurer's houfe in the Clofe, and ftayed there feveral days. A third fiege happened in 1549, when the feditious Cornifh rofe in oppofition to the new religion in the reign of Edward VI. but the inhabitants, though almost reduced to famine, continued loyal, till lord Ruffel arrived with an army and obtained fuch a victory over the rebels, that the 6th of August was afterwards annually obferved as a day of thankfgiving, and the king rewarded them with the rich manor of Ex-Ifland.

On the highest part of the hill on which this city is built, and on the north-east extremity, ftands the remains of Rougemont caftle, fo called from the redness of the foil. Grafton, in his chronicle, fays, it was the work of Julius Cæfar; afterwards the feat of feveral Saxon Kings, and fince of the dukes of Cornwall. Within the caftle walls a chapel was built, by the lady Elizabeth de Fortibus, countefs of Devon, who endowed it with lands, called the Prebends of Hays and Catton, for the payment of certain weekly fervices therein to be performed. This town and caflle held out fome time against the Conqueror; but a part of the walls falling down, it was furrendered at difcretion. William contented himself with only altering the gates of the caftle, as a mark of its being fubdued; at the fame time he either rebuilt or much repaired the whole edifice, and bestowed it on Baldwin de Briono, husband of Albreda, his niece, whofe descendants by the female line enjoyed it, together with the office of the fheriff of Devon, which feems to have been annexed to it, till the 14th of Henry III. anno 1230; when that prince refuming into his own hands fundry caftles and forts in this realm, difpoffeffed Robert de Courtney, in whofe family it had been for three defcents. the reign of Henry IV. John Holland, duke of Exeter, had a fine mansion within the caftle, of which no traces are remaining, Anno 1413, the city being vifited by King Richard III. he was, during his ftay, nobly entertained by the corporation. On feeing the castle, he commended it highly, both for ftrength and beauty of its fituation; but hearing it was named Rougemont, which from the fimilarity of the found, mistaking for Richmond, he fuddenly grew fad; faying, that the end of his days approached ; a prophecy having declared he fhould not long furvive the fight of Richmond. In the

In

year 1588, at the lent affizes held here, an infectious diftemper, brought by fome Portuguefe prifoners of war, confined in the caftle, destroyed fir John Chichefter, the judge; eight juftices; eleven out of the twelve, impannelled jurors; with divers other perfons affembled on this occafion. In 1655, John Penruddock and Hugh Grove, both Wiltfhire gentlemen, having joined in an unfuccefsful attempt, in favour of Charles II., were here beheaded; when many of inferior rank were hanged at Havitree gallows. The ruin represented in Mr. Grofe's view 1768, which is the entrance into the caftle yard, was part of the exterior walls or out-works; thefe enclose a confiderable space, in fhape fomewhat like a rhombus, with its angles rounded off; they were defended by four towers, two on the west, and two on the eaft fide. Its terrace and walls afford a delightful profpect of the city and furrounding country.

The ftreets and buildings in general wear the venerable afpect of antiquity. The principal street and thoroughfare is very long and spacious, and to the weft very much improved by an elegant bridge of three large arches over the river, and numerous small ones continued up the street to bring it to a level, which has been finished about ten or twelve years, and coft near 20,000l. In the eaft part ftands the cathedral originally a monaftery, founded by King Athelftan for Benedictine monks, and made an epifcopal fee by Edward the Confeffor, the building was carried on by Leofric, and various have been the after additions for almoft 400 years, and yet the uniformity is fo congruous as to appear like the workmanship of one architect. But we cannot speak of the external appearance in any other light than as heavy and unpleasant, particularly when viewed within the precincts; a very different idea is given within, in every refpect magnificent and pleafing. The whole length including the library beyond the altar is about 390 feet, breadth 70, and tranfept 135. The whole was lately new repaired and varnished with most suitable combination of colours, very unlike that taudry mixture which fo much defiles the dignity of Wells. The body of this church is ufed for public preaching, and early prayers, and filled with pews, a throne for the bishop, &c. in a manner I never faw before. The weft window is adorned with modern painted glafs, reprefenting feven of the apostles, St. Paul, Luke, Matthew, Peter, Mark, John and Andrew, with the arms of those nobility and gentry of the diocefe, at whose joint expence it was executed with much tafte and ingenuity, by Mr. Picket of York. The fcreen displays much fancy and magnificence of antiquity, reprefenting from the creation to the afcenfion in curious colours. Over this is a fuperb organ, esteemed very fine, the largest pipe being fifteen inches diameter, two more than that of the celebrated one at Ulm. The choir is particularly light and beautiful, the east window contains good old painting; the altar piece finely devifed and ornamented with a perspective view of the infide of the church painted in the reign of James I. and the throne of moft curious workman. fhip, the carvings of the canopy are 60 feet high. We could meet with no directory or defcription of the tombs, &c. nor has any pocket companion of this fort yet been publifhed, fo that our account must be very fhort and imperfect; Humphrey Bohun, earl of Hereford, Hugh Courtney, earl of Devon, and his lady, Lord Chichester, bifhops Stafford, Stapleton, Brounfcombe, Lacy, &c. fir Thomas Speke, fir Richard Stapleton, fir Peter Carew having 17 coats of arms all impaled on the tomb, dated 1575, feveral other Carews, and Knights Templars, lying crofs-legged in armour; and a fine monument in the lady's chapel, to the memory of the famous judge Dodderige, obiit 1628, æt. 73.

VOL. II.

"Learning adieu, for Dodderige is gone
To fix his earthly to the heav'nly throne."

Another principal building, fituate at a finall distance eaft of the city is the Devon and Exeter hofpital, for the benefit of the decayed, fick, and indigent, one of the most laudable charities ever encouraged, which reflects great credit on its firft founder, Dr. Alured Clark, dean of this church, 1740; and though fupported by a very bountiful fubfcription, yet I was told that the numbers of poor manufacturers with which it is crowded, render it necessary to raise an immediate fupply by further contribution. This woollen business, though not fo flourishing as formerly, employs an abundance of hands, and is chiefly wrought in the furrounding villages, and brought here to be dyed, &c. which we faw in pafling over the bridge amongst the fuburbs, confifting of dye-houfes and drying frames, fpread in crowds on the banks of the river.

From hence we afcend the immenfe hill of Halldown, near feven miles in length and three broad; about half-way up we have a pleafing view of Halldown house, the elegant feat of fir Robert Palke, bart. built after the manner of Buckingham house, and well furrounded with plantations. Though in itself a barren flinty common, this vaft fummit displays one of the nobleft profpects in this kingdom. To the fouth a most glorious expanse of fea, with the river Ex winding from the city into it, begirt with numerous villages, feats, &c. the other three points affording at the fame time fome of the boldest and most beautiful inland scenes imaginable. The evening closed in too fast to give us all its charms in perfection, fuch as the adjacent new tower-like fummer-house might yield upon a favourite day. We now defcended with hafte to our place of rest, the fmall old market town of Chudleigh, which gives name to a very ancient family, and title of baron to the Cliffords, fir Thomas, lord high treasurer of England, being created by Charles II., whofe feat, called Ugbrook, is clofe adjacent.

Early next morning the wind blowing mild, but mifty, from the fouth-west, and threatening rain, we proceeded to Afhburton: about half a mile on this road hang the rude heads of a large black marble rock, which commands a wild view of the hills, woods, and vales beneath; this curious ftratum, found in large bodies in this part of the country, we faw here converted by fire into very useful lime for dreffing and im proving the land, a great part of which is arable and pasture, as well as abounds in cyder fruits, this year fo uncommonly plentiful. In these marble quarries they get large blocks, and fend them to Plymouth, London, &c. which for hardness and variety of veins are little inferior to foreign productions. Paffing over fome rugged moors we faw on our left the feat of Mr. Templar. Afhburton is a neat market-town of one principal street, built chiefly of the white flate found in these parts. It has a large handfome church, built cathedral-wife, with a tower 90 feet high, and a leaden fpire. Claims alfo the privileges of a very ancient borough by prefcription, under the government of a portrieve, chofen annually at the lord's-court. The choice of the two members is by the voice of all houfe inhabitants, who are returned by that officer. It is likewife one of the four stannary towns for the county, and gives title to a new-made law lord (Dunning) now deceased, an original inhabitant, if not a native. After breakfast we left this place for Plymouth, the long ftruggle between the fun and clouds, at length ended in violent rain, which continued the remainder of the day; in the midst of which we arrived at Ivy bridge, but without being able to fee the beauties of this romantic fituation. We dined at a moft excellent inn, and afterwards proceeded without much obfervation till we approached the vicinity of Plymouth, in which are feveral good feats, particularly one at Saltram, belonging to lord Borringdon*, whose fituation and hang

Lord Borringdon died here Tuesday, April 28, 1788. He was made a Peer 1784.

ing woods by the fide of this arm of the sea might be deemed worthy much attention, was there not fo great a rival (Mount Edgecumb) juft oppofite.

Plymouth is fituated between two very large inlets, made by the union of the Plym and Tamar with the channel, which form a most noble bay, or found, for fhips of the greatest burden. The inlet of this fea, which extends many miles up the country north, to the river Tamar, is called Hamouze, and parts Devon from Cornwall. The other which receives the Plym, is called Catwater, an harbour capable of containing any number of veffels, which is appropriated chiefly for trade, to Virginia, the Sugar Islands, and the Streights. In the reign of Edward III., we find this place confiderable; afterwards it much decayed, and dwindled into a small fishing town; about two centuries ago the convenience of the haven gave rife to its increafe, and now we fee it a moft flourishing and able port, protected by a strong fort, built by Charles II. confifting of five regular baftions, &c. The docks for building and repairing war fhips, begun by King William III. in 1691, are now brought to the highest perfection, which we fhall defcribe anon in the order we faw them. Our first bufinefs was to view the streets and buildings of the old town, which engroffed but little of our time, being vile and almost dangerously narrow; it has however two handfome churches, St. Andrew, and Charles-church, fo called from its being dedicated to the memory of Charles I. This being a borough town under the government of a mayor, &c. the streets about the town hall we faw now crowded with people about to choose a new one, as is usual at this feafon of the year.

We went next to vifit Mount Edgecumbe, the delightful feat of the noble lord of the fame name, fituate on the oppofite fide of the Ham-ouze. The way from hence is through Stonehoufe, a populous place, to the dock; here we were attacked by a violent ftorm, which threatened awhile' to prevent our promised pleafure; this ceafing, we foon arrived at Dock, which furprized us with a very large difplay of fpacious streets, interfecting each other at right angles, very different from the place we had juft left; as the inhabitants here are chiefly mechanicks, &c. belonging to the docks, the houses are flightly built, either of plaifter, or flate stone, abundantly got hereabouts, and will not bear a minute inspection, but have a good effect at a distance. Leaving our carriage we walked to the paffage, and croffed without any difficulty about three quarters of a mile to the other fide of the water, which thus divides the two counties. A ring at the bell just beyond procures a neceffary attendant, who fhews and explains the whole of this terreftrial paradife. A gradual afcent up the lawn leads to the house, an ancient Gothic ftructure with three fronts; the east looking full upon the Sound.

The internal improvements, that were now making, prohibited our inspection; take therefore Carew's account (publifhed 1605,) which is lively and accurate; "Upon this fouth fhore, fomewhat within the island, ftandeth Mount Edgecumb, a house builded and named by fir Richard Edgecumb, father to the now poffeffor: and if comparisons were as lawful in the making, as they prove odious in the matching, I would prefume to ranke it for health, pleafure, and commodities, with any fubjects houfe of his degree in England. It is feated against the north, on the declining of a hill, in the midst of a deer park, neere a narrow entrance, through which the falt water breaketh up into the country, to fhape the greatest part of the haven. The house is builded fquare, with a round turret at each end, garretted at the top, and the hall rifing in the midft above the rest, which yieldeth a stately found, as you enter the fame. In fummer, the open cafements admit a refreshing coolnefs: in winter, the two clofed doores exclude all offenfive coldnefse: the parlour and dining chamber give you a large and diverfified profpect of land and fea; to which under-ly St. Nicholas Ifland, Plymmouth fort, and