I fuppofe it was during the hour of recreation, or in playtime, when I got to Eton; for I faw the boys in the yard before the college, which was inclofed by a low wall, in great numbers, walking and running up and down.

Their drefs ftruck me particularly: from the biggeft to the leaft, they all wore black cloaks, or gowns, over coloured cloaths; through which there was an aperture for their arms. They alfo wore befides, a fquare hat or cap, that feemed to be covered with velvet, fuch as our clergymen in many places wear.

They were differently employed; fome talking together; fome playing; and fome had their books in their hands, and were reading; but I was foon obliged to get out of their fight, they ftared at me fo, as I came along, all over duft, with my flick in my hand.

Ás I entered the inn, and defired to have fomething to eat, the countenance of the waiter foon gave me to understand, that I fhould there find no very friendly reception. Whatever I got they seemed to give me with fuch an air, as fhewed too plainly how little they thought of me; and as if they confidered me but as a beggar. I muft do them the justice to own, however, that they fuffered me to pay like a gentleman. No doubt this was the first time this pert bepowdered puppy had ever been called on to wait on a poor devil, who entered their place on foot. I was tired, and asked for a bedroom, where I might fleep. They fhewed me into one that much resembled a prison for malefactors. I requested that I might have a better room at night; on which, without any apology, they told me, that they had no intention of lodging me, as they had no room for fuch guests; but that I might go back to Slough, where very probably I might get a night's lodging.

With money in my pocket, and a consciousness, moreover, that I was doing nothing that was either imprudent, unworthy, or really mean, I own it mortified and vexed me, to find myself obliged to put up with this impudent ill-ufage from people who ought to reflect, that they are but the fervants of the public, and little likely to recommend themfelves to the high by being infolent to the low. They made me, however, pay them two fhillings for my dinner and coffee; which I had juft thrown down, and was pre paring to fhake off the duft from my fhoes, and quit this inhofpitable St. Christopher, when the green hills of Windfor fmiled fo friendly upon me, that they feemed to invite me first to visit them.

And now trudging through the fireets of Windsor, I at length mounted a fort of hill; a fteep path led me on to its fummit, close to the walls of the castle, where I had an uncommonly extenfive and fine profpect, which fo much raised my heart, that in a moment, I forgot not only the infults of waiters and tavern-keepers, but the hardship of my lot, in being obliged to travel in a manner that expofed me to the fcorn of a people whom I wished to refpect. Below me lay the most beautiful landscapes in the world; all the rich fcenery that nature, in her best attire, can exhibit. Here were the fpots that furnished thofe delightful themes, of which the mufe of Denham and Pope made choice. 1 feemed to view a whole world at once, rich and beautiful beyond conception. At that moment what more could I have wished for.

And the venerable caftle, that royal edifice which, in every part of it, has strong traces of antiquity, fmiles through its green trees, like the ferene countenance of fome hoary fage, who, by the vigor of an happy conftitution, still retains many of the charms of youth.

Nothing infpired me with more veneration and awe, than the fine old building St. George's church; which, as you come down from the caftle, is on your right. At the fight of it, paft centuries feemed to revive in my imagination.

But

But I will fee no more of thofe fights which are fhewn you by one of thofe venal praters, who ten times a day, parrot-wife, repeat over the fame dull leffon they have got by heart. The furly fellow, who for a fhilling conducted me round the church, had nearly, with his chattering, deftroyed the fineft impreffions. Henry the Eighth, Charles the Firft, and Edward the Fourth, are buried here. After all, this church, both within and without, has a moft melancholy and difmal appearance.

They were building at what is called the queen's palace; and prodigious quantities of materials are provided for that purpose.

I now went down a gentle declivity into the delightful park at Windfor; at the foot of which it looks fo fombrous and gloomy, that I could hardly help fancying it was fome vaft old Gothic temple. This foreft certainly, in point of beauty, furpaffes every thing of the kind you can figure to yourfelf. To its own charms, when I faw it, there were added a molt pleafing and philofophical folitude; the coolnefs of an evening brecze; all aided by the foft founds of mufic, which, at this diftance from the caftle, from whence it iffued, was inexpreffibly fweet. It threw me into a fort of enthu fiaftic and pleafing reverie, which made me ample amends for the fatigues, difcourte fies, and continued crofs accidents I had encountered in the courfe of the day.

I now left the foreft; the clock ftruck fix, and the workmen were going home from

their work.

I have forgot to mention the large round tower of the caftle; which is also a very ancient building. The roads that lead to it are, all along their fides, planted with fhrubs; thefe being modern and lively, make a pleafing contraft to the fine old moffy walls. On the top of this tower the flag of Great Britain is usually displayed; which, however, as it was now late in the evening, was taken in.

As I came down from the caftle, I faw the king driving up to it, in a very plain, twowheeled, open carriage. The people here were politer than I used to think they were in London; for I did not fee fingle perfon, high or low, who did not pull off their hats as their fovereign paffed them.

I was now again in Windfor; and found myself not far from the caftle, oppofite to a very capital inn, where I faw many officers and feveral perfons of confequence going in and out. And here at this inn, contrary to all expectation, I was received by the landlord with great civility, and even kindness; very contrary to the haughty and infolent airs which the upftart at the other, and his jackanapes of a waiter, there thought fit to give themselves.

ers.

However, it feemed to be my fate to be ftill a fcandal and an eye-fore to all the waitThe maid, by the order of her master, fhewed me a room where I might adjust my drefs a little; but I could hear her mutter and grumble as she went along with me. Having put myself a little to rights, I went down into the coffee-room, which is immediately at the entrance of the house, and told the landlord, that I thought I wished to have yet one more walk. On this he obligingly directed me to ftroll down a pleasant field behind his house, at the foot of which, he faid, I should find the Thames, and a good bathing-place.

I followed his advice, and this evening was, if poffible, finer than the preceding. Here again, as I had been told I should, I found the Thames with all its gentle windings; Windfor fhone nearly as bright over the green vale, as thofe charming houfes on Richmond hill, and the verdure was not lefs foft and delicate. The field I was in, feemed to flope a little towards the Thames. I feated myfelf near a bufh, and there waited the going down of the fun. At a diftance I faw a number of people bathing in the Thames. When after fun-fet, they were a little difperfed, I drew near the fpot I 3Y 2

had

had been directed to; and here, for the first time, I fported in the cool tide of the Thames. The bank was steep, but my landlord had dug fome fteps that went down into the water; which is extremely convenient for those who cannot swim. Whilst I was there, a couple of smart lively apprentice boys came alfo from the town; who, with the greatest expedition, threw off their cloaths and leathern aprons, and plunged themselves, head foremost, into the water, where they oppofed the tide with their finewy arms till they were tired. They advised me with much natural civility, to untie my hair, and that then, like them, I might plunge into the stream head

foremost.

Refreshed and ftrengthened by this cool bath, I took a long walk by moon-light on the banks of the Thames; to my left were the towers of Windfor, before me a little village, with a steeple, the top of which peeped out among the green trees; at a dif tance two inviting hills, which I was to climb in the morning; and around me the green corn-fields. Oh! how indefcribably beautiful was this evening, and this walk! At a distance among the houses, I could eafily defcry the inn where I lodged, and where I feemed to myself at length to have found a place of refuge, and an home; and I thought, if I could but ftay there, I should not be very sorry if I were never to find another.

How foon did all these pleafing dreams vanish! On my return the waiters (who from my appearance, too probably expected but a trifling reward for their attentions to me) received me gruffly, and as if they were forry to fee me again. This was not all; I had the additional mortification to be again roughly accofted by the cross maid, who had before fhewn me to the bed-chamber; and who, dropping a kind of half courtesy, with a fuppreffed laugh, fneeringly told me, I might look out for another lodging, as I could not fleep there, fince the room she had by mistake shewn me, was already engaged. It can hardly be neceffary to tell you, that I loudly protefted against this fudden change. At length the landlord came, and I appealed to him; and he with great courtesy immediately defired another room to be fhewn me; in which, however, there were two beds; fo that I was obliged to admit a companion. Thus was I very near being a fecond time turned out of an inn.

Directly under my room was the tap-room; from which I could plainly hear too much of the converfation of fome low people, who were drinking and finging fongs, in which, as far as I could understand them, there were many paffages at least as vulgar and nonfenfical as ours.

This company I gueffed, confifted chiefly of foldiers and low fellows. I was hardly well lulled to fleep by this hurly-burly, when my chum (probably one of the drinking party below) came ftumbling into the room and against my bed. At length, though not without fome difficulty, he found his own bed; into which he threw himself juft as he was, without ftaying to pull off either cloaths or boots.

This morning I rofe very early, as I had proposed, in order to climb the two hills, which yesterday prefented me with fo inviting a profpect; and in particular, that one of them on the fummit of which an high white houfe appeared among the dark green trees; the other was close by.

I found no regular path leading to thefe hills; and therefore went straight forward, without minding roads; only keeping in view the object of my aim. This certainly created me fome trouble. I had fometimes an hedge, and fometimes a bog to walk round; but at length I had attained the foot of the fo earnestly wifhed-for hill, with the high white houfe on its fummit, when, juft as I was going to afcend it, and was already pleafing myself in the idea with the profpect from the white house, behold I

read thefe words on a board: Take care! there are fteel traps and fpring guns here. All my labour was loft, and I now went round to the other hill; but here were also steel traps and spring guns, though probably never intended to annoy fuch a wanderer as myself, who wifhed only to enjoy the fine morning air from this eminence.

Thus difappointed in my hopes, I returned to Windfor, much in the fame temper and manner as I had yesterday morning from Richmond-Hill; where my wifhes had

also been fruftrated.

When I got to my inn, I received from the ill-tempered maid, who feemed to have been stationed there on purpose to plague and vex me, the polite welcome, that on no account fhould I fleep another night there. Luckily, that was not my intention. I now write to you in the coffee room, where two Germans are talking together, who certainly little fufpect how well I understand them; if I were to make myself known to them, as a German, moft probably, even thefe fellows would not speak to me, becaufe I travel on foot. I fancy they are Hanoverians! The weather is fo fine, that notwithstanding the inconveniences I have hitherto experienced on this account, I think I fhall continue my journey in the fame manner.

Oxford, June 25

TO what various, fingular, and unaccountable fatalities and adventures are not foottravellers expofed, in this land of carriages and horses! But, I will begin my relation in form and order.

In Windsor, I was obliged to pay for an old fowl I had for fupper; for a bed-room. which I procured with fome difficulty and not without murmurs, and in which, to compleat my misadventures, I was disturbed by a drunken fellow; and for a couple of dishes of tea, nine fhillings, of which the fowl alone was charged fix fhillings.

As I was going away, the waiter, who had ferved me with fo very ill a grace, placed himself on the ftairs, and faid, " pray remember the waiter!" I gave him three halfpence on which he faluted me with the heartieft G-d d-n you, fir! I had ever heard. At the door ftood the cross maid, who also accosted me with-" pray remember the chamber-maid!"-" Yes, yes," faid I," I fhall long remember your most ill-mannered behaviour and fhameful incivility," and fo I gave her nothing. I hope fhe was ftung and nettled at my reproof: however the ftrove to stifle her anger by a contemptuous, loud horfe laugh. Thus, as I left Windfor, I was literally followed by abufes and curfes.

I am very forry to fay, that I rejoiced when I once more perceived the towers of Windfor behind me. It is not proper for wanderers to be prowling near the palaces of kings and fo I fat me down, philofophically, in the fhade of a green hedge, and again read Milton, no friend of kings, though the first of poets. Whatever I may think of their inns, it is impoffible not to admire and be charmed with this country.

I took my way through Slough by Salt-hill, to Maidenhead. At Salthill, which can hardly be called even a village, I faw a barber's fhop; and fo I refolved to get myself both shaved and dreffed. For putting my hair a little in order, and fhaving me, I was forced to pay him a fhilling. Oppofite to this fhop, there ftands an elegant house, and a neat garden.

Between Salt hill and Maidenhead, I met with the first very remarkable and alarming adventure, that has occurred during my pilgrimage.

Hitherto I had fcarcely met a fingle foot paffenger, whilft coaches without number every moment rolled pafs me; for, there are few roads, even in England, more

crowded

crowded than this western road, which leads to Bath and Bristol, as well as to Oxford. I now alfo began to meet numbers of people on horfeback; which is by no means an ufual method of travelling.

The road now led me along a low funken piece of ground between high trees, fo that I could not fee far before me, when a fellow in a brown frock and round hat, with a ftick in his hand a great deal stronger than mine, came up to me. His countenance immediately struck me, as having in it fomething fufpicious. He however paffed me; but before I was aware, he turned back and afked me for a halfpenny, to buy, as he faid, fome bread, as he had eat nothing that day. I felt in my pocket, and found that I had no halfpence; no, nor even a fixpence; in fhort, nothing but fhillings. I told him the circumftance, which I hoped would excufe me: on which he faid, with an air and manner the drift of which I could not understand, "God blefs my foul!" This drew my attention ftill clofer to the huge brawny fift, which grafped his ftick; and that clofer attention determined me immediately to put my hand in my pocket and give him a fhilling. Meanwhile a coach came up. The fellow thanked me, and went on. Had the coach come a moment fooner, I fhould not eafily have given him the fhilling; which, God knows, I could not well fpare. Whether this was a foot-pad or not, I will not pretend to fay; but he had every appearance of it.

I now came to Maidenhead bridge, which is five and twenty English miles from London.

The English mile-ftones give me much pleafure; and they certainly are a great convenience to travellers. They have often feemed to eafe me of half the distance of a journey, merely by telling me how far I had already gone; and by affuring me that I was on the right road. For, befides the distance from London, every mile-ftone informs you, that, to the next place is fo many miles: and where there are croisroads, there are direction-pofts, fo that it is hardly poffible to lofe one's-felf in walking. I must confefs that all this journey has feemed but as it were one continued walk for pleasure.

From Maidenhead-bridge, there is a delightful profpect towards an hill, which extends itself along the right bank of the Thames: and on the top of it, there are two beautiful country feats, all furrounded with meadows and parks. The first is called Taplow, and belongs to the earl of Inchiquin; and a little farther Cliefden, which also belongs to him.

These villas feem all to be furrounded with green meadows; lying along thick woods; and, altogether, are most charming.

From this bridge, it is not far to Maidenhead; near which, on the left, is another prospect of a beautiful feat, belonging to Pennyfton Powney, efq.

All this knowledge I have gained chiefly from my English guide; which I have constantly in my hand; and in which every thing most worthy of notice in every mile is marked. Thefe notices I get confirmed or refuted by the people at whofe houfes I ftop; who wonder how I, who am a foreigner, have come to be fo well acquainted with their country.

Maidenhead is a place of little note; for fome mulled ale, which I defired them to make me, I was obliged to pay nine pence. I fancy they did not take me to be either, a great, or a very rich man. For, I heard them fay, as I paffed on, "A ftout fellow!" This, though perhaps not untrue, did not seem to found in my ears, as very respectful.

At the end of the village was a fhoe-maker's fhop; juft as at the end of Salthill, there was a barber's fhop.

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