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way of stone, with an inscription, signifying the time of its building, and G. F. at the end of it; there are also two large arm-chairs very heavily made, altogether of wood, and carved on the back; one was for George Fox, and the other for his wife to set in: there is also an ebony bedstead, which George Fox left for Friends who were travelling, to lodge on. The meeting-house stands high, and commands a beautiful prospect of the country and town of Ulverstone. Swarthmore Hall is a large pile of antique building, with an avenue into the yard, where Margaret Fox's carriage used to enter by a gate-way of rough stone arched on the top. The house as well as the farm, is at present the property of some person not a Friend, and rented: the rooms are large, particularly that where the meeting used to be held: it is paved with stone down stairs; up stairs, the wainscotting round the room is carved,* as well as the wood-work over the chimnies, with some representations of Scripture passages. Margaret Fox lies buried about a mile from thence, where Friends buried their dead at that time. We walked to town by the paved way on which the family used to walk, which is mostly shaded with trees. There are about twelve families of Friends, who keep up the meeting. Going over these grounds caused me to feel serious, but not superstitious. At Elijah Salthouse's, he showed me their ancient Monthly Meeting book in the days of George Fox, which was curious, and also an old folio bible printed in 1541, in old English text, with rough plates; it has a chain and small padlock to it, by which it was formerly chained to the wall in the meeting-house; it is in pretty good keeping for its age. The reason alleged for its being chained in the meeting-house is, that in that day, cavillers at the doctrine delivered were sometimes present, and Friends referred to the text to satisfy them, and also to show to the world that the calumny thrown on Friends of rejecting the bible, was false. It was likewise made use of by poor Friends who came from a distance to meeting, and would be there before the time, who employed themselves in reading it;-a far more consistent and becoming employment than many now are in the practice of before meetings begin, such as conversing about news, trade, politics, &c. The weather being stormy, and the meeting so far from Ulverstone, only about two hundred attended, many of whom being religious people, it was held to satisfaction, yet I did not feel myself relieved. "14th. The minister of the Independent congregation, sent to know if we inclined to accept of their house this evening, which he

*This ornamental work was no doubt performed in judge Fell's time.

should cheerfully make ready for us if we thought proper. Believing I should not feel clear without his offer was accepted, we did so, and the meeting was large; the people conducted well, and through the condescension of our heavenly Father, it was a refreshing time to me, believing that Truth was much in dominion; and I retired to rest, easy to proceed in the morning.

"15th. Got to Kendall, to George Stewardson's; was much oppressed with a cold :the weather so wet, they said there had not been a dry day for a month past, which had much injured the harvest, the wheat growing in the shock, and a great deal of hay being nearly rotten.

"First-day, 17th. The meeting was larger than any I have seen, except London and Bristol; and an appointed one this evening was very large and crowded; it was supposed there were fourteen hundred persons within doors and many out; the Author of all good was mercifully pleased to be with us, and it concluded in thanksgiving.

"19th. Attended their week-day meeting, wherein I was silent: appointed one to be held at six o'clock this evening, for all who inclined to attend; which, though it rained very hard, was large, consisting of about one thousand people, who behaved becomingly. My cold and hoarseness made it trying to me to speak, yet it closed comfortably the minister of a dissenting congregation was much affected, and took leave of me with expressions of unity, and prayers for my preservation and return to my friends in peace. our female ministers are travelling in Scotland and these northern parts of England; but no man Friend, except Thomas Scattergood and myself; David Sands is in Wales. What hath or doth hinder them, but the too great attachment to the pursuits of this world. O! what a pity, in such an abundant field of labour as this country affords! Lord, loosen our Society more and more, that they may be ready to enter the field thou art opening in Europe.

A number of

"21st. At Cockermouth; where there are about twenty families of Friends, who keep up the meeting. The wages of labouring people here are very low; men twenty-one pence per day, and find themselves;-most of the people, men, women and children, wear clogs, made of leather above and wood and iron for the soles, which seems to be general in the north of England, except for such as are of considerable property.

"22nd. Appointed a meeting for six o'clock this evening; a number of Friends came in from the country, among whom was John Hall, of Broughton, a minister; the meeting was large and satisfactory.

but such as purchase that privilege of the duke of Roxborough. Notwithstanding their plenty, they are six pence sterling per pound, so the poor must taste them but seldom.

would stay over first-day; it was however still and quiet throughout.

"30th. Went on-passed through a large town called Dalkeith, and arrived at Edinburgh in the evening.

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"First-day, 24th. Attended their forenoon meeting at Wigton, at which were Mary Watson and Mary Sterry; the former had good service. I did not think myself authorized to appear by way of ministry, as indeed I seldom "29th. Very little notice being given, the do among Friends. The members of society meeting was small; at the close of which I in Cumberland and Westmoreland, appear to appointed another at six o'clock in the evening. be a plain, honest people. Arrived at Carlisle I felt much discouraged at having a meeting in the evening, and a meeting being appointed here; the minds of the people not appearing at six o'clock, it was large; several of the open towards Friends; but about two hundred clergy attended; and through the condescen- attended. I thought Truth did not reign, and sion of our heavenly Father, it was a solid, to me it was a low, and I feared a fruitless satisfactory time. Appointed another meet-season; yet the people said they hoped we ing for to-morrow evening. There are about thirty-two families of Friends here, and there may be fifteen thousand inhabitants in this city. Many Friends came in from the country to the meeting; and also some people of note in the town, and some of the clergy: the peo- First-day, tenth month 1st. Friends have ple were remarkably still, and the Lord fa- built a new meeting-house in a retired place, voured us with a truly consolating meeting; which will contain about five hundred persons. my mind felt quite relieved, and I had an af- There are about twelve families of respectable fectionate parting with many of the people. Friends residing here; and we went to the "27th. Lodged at Hawick, forty-four miles meeting, in expectation of seeing our members from Carlisle. The labourers on their farms, alone; but the people came in until there were live generally in a cluster of twenty or thirty three hundred, who appeared becomingly, and houses; are meanly accommodated in small it was on the whole to satisfaction. Appointed mud cottages with thatched roofs, almost like another meeting at six o'clock in the evening, stables; the children and most of the women at which about five hundred attended, among without shoes-turf is the common firing, and whom were many high professors, who betheir bread of oatmeal. Arrived at Kelso a haved well; it was thought to be a favoured little past eleven o'clock, and finding that the meeting, and I left it peaceful and easy, and widow Margaret Anderson and two daughters appointed another for third-day evening. This were gone to meeting, we went and sat down city is said to contain one hundred thousand with them; they and one man, not an ac- inhabitants, though it does not cover a great knowledged member, composed the whole deal of ground. The houses are in general meeting; some others who are descendants higher than in any city in Europe, from five of Friends join them on first-days. Their to ten stories; the ground being very costly, lonely situation affected me, and I could not it is almost covered with building, and scarcely but reflect on my dear native city and the any yards. In the new city, the houses are meetings there, where there are so many to large, plain and substantial—they generally encourage and strengthen one another. Oh! have stone stair cases in one quarter of the what advantages do Friends in such places building, which ascend to the top of the house; enjoy, and how thankful ought they to be! and frequently the several stories are occupied May the sight of many poor and solitary ones by different families, and have from four to be remembered by me, if the Lord spare me eight chambers each: these families may be to get home, and be a perpetual incitement to from six to eight or more in one house, mostly walk worthy of his manifold mercies. There unacquainted with each other. The space bewas something solid and precious attended us, tween the joists and ceilings and floors, is filled and we were glad we had sat with them. I with a composition of saw-dust, &c., which proposed a meeting for the people of the place; prevents the communication of sound, and the but it being thought the notice would be too families are more conveniently accommodated short for this evening, it was appointed for ten than might be expected. At present there are o'clock to-morrow forenoon. The lands being no American students north of Virginia at the farmed out in large tracts, the poor can get college. Our friends say, they do not desire none; and the farmers who employ them, feed to see Friends' children sent here from Amerithem with skim, or as they call it, blue milkca, it being generally destructive of their morals and oatmeal, made into crouder or hasty-pud- and religious principles.

ding, potatoes, turnips, kale, &c., but very "Tenth month 3d. The meeting this evenlittle meat. The river is well stored withing was large and comfortable; a number of salmon, but none are suffered to take them, men of science attended, and it closed in rev

erent thankfulness to the Author of all our deferred until after our meeting in the evening. mercies. Yesterday evening our friend Phoebe The convenience of the hall being enlarged Speakman, with her companions Ann Crowley by a different arrangement of the seats, and and J. Birkbeck, came in from their journey opening two rooms adjoining, the whole were to the north. so closely stowed, that I had very little ex"5th. At the week-day meeting this fore-pectation we should be able to hold the meetnoon, about forty Friends and a few others ing to satisfaction, and expressed my fears to attended. Phoebe Speakman had good service, | the people. They endeavoured however, to to the comfort of all; her call seems altogether be still, became very solid and attentive, and to our own members. At the close of the I saw scarcely any uneasiness. The meeting meeting, finding my mind not yet relieved, I closed solemnly in prayer, after which it was proposed a public meeting at six o'clock. Our some time before we could get the people to Friends here set a good example, by shutting move, so that we could get through, and numup their shops while they go to meeting. The bers followed us to the inn door. It was meeting in the evening was very large and thought there were one thousand or more ascrowded, many men of letters attending, and I sembled; and it was said many hundreds entered it in fear and trembling for the precious went away who could not get in. The three cause, which is often my case. I think I can men aforementioned, came to the inn; we say, I seek not mine own honour, but above all found them strong in their opinions; one the exaltation of Truth and its testimony. The seemed to be what is termed a Fatalist, and people behaved in a solid manner from the thought that Judas could not have done anybeginning, and it proved, through Divine con- | thing but what he did, nor any man else from descension, a relieving meeting, and I took the beginning of the world. They appeared leave of the people with much tenderness. to be men of good education, and the points After meeting, some pious persons expressed themselves in an affectionate manner. I hope the kind expressions of some after meetings, will only have a tendency to make me more humble and sensible that to me belongs nothing, but all to Him, whose is the kingdom, the power and the glory, and all the praise of his own works for ever: our rejoicing is the testimony of our consciences, not the well-done of the people.

were argued with coolness, and they parted in a very friendly disposition. We don't know that much was gained; but we all concluded nothing was lost, as they were driven to their shifts, and willing to drop the argument, and said they wished there was a body of Friends settled at Dundee. I retired to rest thankful for the merciful preservation and help through the day.

"9th. The town of Dundee stands on the "7th. Rode to Leith, and took passage in river Tay, about eight miles from the sea, and a pinnace across the water to Kinghorn; then as well as almost every village and town in taking post-chaise, we passed through the town England and Scotland, has many soldiers in it. of Kircaldy and several lesser towns, and got Dined at our friend Alexander Webster's, who to Dundee in the morning of the 8th. Two | is under convincement; his wife, who continrespectable men, Alexander Webster and Wil- ues with the Baptists, was pleased with our liam Smith, visited us, who appear to be con- | visit to Dundee, was very kind, and I hope vinced of our principles and very friendly. preparing to be of one mind with her husband. Some notice having been given, and a large hall well seated, we went to the meeting with expectation of seeing very few, as it was the time that all the different places of worship began, and the people are very exact in this country, in attending their places of worship and keeping the first-day religiously in their way. However, about four hundred, came, mostly men, and after a few minutes, behaved well. It was thought to be a comfortable meeting, and I appointed another at six o'clock in the evening. Having at the meeting in the morning used some expressions, inviting such as were not satisfied with the doctrine, to call on me and express their minds, three respectable citizens of the place, but of Deistical principles, joined our friends in the street, professing a desire for an interview with me, which I thought had best be

Another meeting being appointed for this evening, the people hired a man, as they did yesterday, to preserve order and keep the rude boys out of the house. Although we went before six o'clock, the house was nearly full and became very crowded. I was led to speak plainly against the doctrine of Deism—the people behaved quietly and some were much tendered; and though I did not think Truth triumphed so much as last evening, yet it was a relieving time to me, and the meeting broke up in solemnity. William Smith's wife was at it, with which he was rejoiced, and she confessed feelingly to the truths she heard.

"10th. Parted affectionately with William Smith and Alexander Webster, who said they were strengthened by our visit; but a young woman, who is also under convincement, and lives with a rigid aunt, was not suffered to

come to any of our meetings, nor to see us; which was a grief to those two men, and to her also. They meet together at times like Friends, and I cannot but hope Truth will one day be more prosperous in Dundee than it is at present, though the absurd doctrine of unconditional election and reprobation, so rigidly held by many, must first be renounced. Our landlord acknowledged he was much edified by our meetings, and parted with us with many good wishes. Rode through a fine grain country, pretty much in sight of the sea, and got to Montrose, and visited a widow Milne and daughter, the only Friends at that town, and had a religious opportunity with them to our satisfaction.

"11th. Went to Urie, the place of Robert Barclay's birth and death. The present possessor is lately come to the estate: he is a young man of eighteen, named Robert, and was out hunting;-the likeness of Friends seems quite extinguished; the father of this young man retained a regard for our profession, in the early part of his life, but went off, got to be a member of parliament, and died about two years past. The young man's preceptor told us, he knew Mr. Barclay would have been glad to see us; and asked us to stay until he returned from hunting, and to dine there about four o'clock, which we declined, having determined to be at Aberdeen in the evening. The library room, which is small, is the place where Robert Barclay is said to have written his works ;-there are a great many ancient Friends' books, all Robert Barclay's writings, and nearly all the pieces in opposition to him, and many other books of more modern date on different subjects. The meeting-house, which has not been made use of for a number of years, stands within a few yards of the dwelling-the ministers' gallery and some other seats remaining; but it now appears to be a place for broken furniture and lumber. The preceptor took us about half a mile from the dwelling, to the top of a little mount, the highest land in the neighbourhood, which was the burying-place of Friends; the family are buried together, and now inclosed by a house built over them, at the expense of David Barclay of London; they consist of seven graves: it is probable that several of the family died in other places. We left the former residence of the excellent apologist and defender of our faith, with heaviness of mind, and with reflections upon the impossibility of the best of men conferring grace and virtue upon their descendants. The country from Urie to Aberdeen was very poor; the distance about fourteen miles.

some of the Friends had gone to their meeting; but our friend John Elmslie meeting us in the street, took us to his house; and after a little refreshment, we also went to meeting, where there were only two men and eight womenit was held in silence; and at the close I ap pointed one for the people of the town, at six o'clock in the evening; which, though not large was thought satisfactory. The town is small, and the people generally in low circumstances.

"13th. Went on to our ancient friend George Cruikshank's, who lives with his son John, who married a daughter of John Wig. ham's. This family appear exemplary in their house and manner of living, and may be gifted for service in the church. Our friend George Cruikshank's daughter was very ill; she bears her lingering painful disorder with great patience and resignation, and we had a comforta ble religious opportunity in her room. six o'clock went to a meeting appointed at Inverary, a village about two miles off; the house held about three hundred people, was well filled, the people quiet in the time of si lence, serious, tender and attentive. I thought them more like thirsty ground than in any other place we had been at in Scotland, and the Lord favoured us with a memorable time, to our great comfort; the praise of all was rendered to him, whose due it is: the people were very thankful, and expressed much desire for another meeting. O! my dear friends of Philadelphia-how gladly would these, and many more in desolate places as to vital religion, receive the crumbs that fall from your spiritual tables almost untasted.

"14th. Our ancient Friend went with us to Kinmuck, four miles, to the family of John Wigham, who are settled on land which they have improved, being managed by his eldest son, a hopeful young man. The village of Kinmuck is about half a mile distant, quite small, but has several families of Friends and a meeting-house. Rode to Aberdeen about fourteen miles. A letter being received from Philadelphia, mentioning that symptoms of the yellow fever had again appeared there, it was affecting to me; but having left all in obedi ence to my apprehended duty, I commit all to Him whose power is sufficient to control and stay the hand of disease, when and where he pleases.

"First-day, 15th. Notice having been given to other professors, the meeting was held in Friends meeting-house, which was comfortably filled: there are but six families of Friends belonging to it. After a little time the people behaved orderly and were very at "12th. Passing through a poor country and tentive; it grew more and more solid, and with hard riding we got to Old Meldrum-ended to satisfaction. Appointed another for

six o'clock to-morrow evening. This town stands upon the river Dee; the land round it is not rich, and the people are employed in knitting worsted, woollen, cotton and raw silk stockings; also spinning the yarn for them and for linens: there are many rows of good houses, the streets well paved, and in general more cleanly than the other towns we have passed through in Scotland; the city is supposed to contain twenty-five thousand inhabi

tants.

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little fuel, and the bleakness and exposure of the country to cold winds, require a hardy race of people to endure; which they certainly are. My two travelling companions, George Miller and William Farrer, made some remarks on Americans using the word thee' instead of thou,' where the latter would be most proper; they were of the mind that it was a departure from our testimony, and had crept in from a desire of pleasing others by a soft accommodating form of "16th. The meeting this evening was very speech, and was inconsistent with the prac crowded; it was thought that four hundred tice of our ancient Friends. I never thought got in, and a vast many went away for want it proceeded from a desire to evade our testiof room-all the avenues for air being stopped, mony, but through custom had prevailed in it became very warm and trying. Although many from ignorance of grammar rules;— many had to stand, they presently got quiet, we are, however, recommended by an apostle, and a solemnity prevailing, the people con- to hold fast the form of sound words. Arrived tinued attentive and were tendered. We at Dundee in the evening. Our two conbelieved it was a season not soon to be vinced friends, Alexander Webster and Wilforgotten; the Lord's good presence having liam Smith, called upon us, and appear to been thankfully witnessed, all the praise was have gained strength to avow the principles of rendered to him, who is now and for ever Friends more openly than heretofore, and to worthy. After meeting, a sensible man came sit down together on first-days in silence, with to our lodgings, and told us he had for several such who incline to sit with them. The acyears been a seeker after Truth-was thank-counts they gave us, and the comfortable feelful for what he had now heard, and wished using of our minds, induced us to believe we had to stay longer in Aberdeen, having no doubt been rightly directed to visit this town again. he could obtain a place for a meeting that would hold one thousand or fifteen hundred people, who he thought would come if we had another; but feeling my mind clear, I did not think it laid upon me. Agreed to breakfast with this man to-morrow, and I retired to bed, thankful for the help and preservation through the day.

"17th. Went accordingly to see John Melles and his wife and children; who appeared to be people of good circumstances, and were very open and friendly. They said many people marvelled that I spoke as I did last night, without notes, as all the preachers in Scotland use them, and supposed I had been bred to the ministry, &c.; so little idea have many in the present day, of the nature of our ministry. We left Aberdeen, and after passing through much poor country, chiefly in oats, arrived at a village called Lawrence Kirk in the evening. "18th. Rainy and cold; instead of proceeding direct for Glasgow, as I was in hopes of doing, I found my mind turned to go by Dundee again. We were well accommodated at the inn, and had good wheat bread on the table as well as oat cakes; but the latter is the bread of the poor. The people in the country appear to be poor, many of the women and children were without shoe or stocking, though it was quite cold, and the highland mountains on our right covered with snow on the tops. Considerable oats and barley yet to cut, and much more to get in and stack. They have

"19th. The Tradesmen's Hall was again seated, though not so conveniently as before, we being placed in the middle, and the people not inclining to go to the far end, they blocked up the door way, and prevented many from getting in; had it been otherwise arranged, we believed it would have been filled. About five hundred attended, chiefly of the most respectable inhabitants. My mind was in a remarkable manner tenderly affected towards them, and through the gracious condescension of our heavenly Father, the opportunity was to our great comfort and thankfulness. After meeting, two religious men and a woman who had an uncommon knowledge in the Scriptures, and were of a tender spirit, visited us. They expressed their convictions in all the foregoing meetings, as well as this, though they had never heard a Friend before, and were united with the doctrines they had heard, and were only come to have further information as to some points in which they still had doubts, particularly whether water baptism and the sacrament so called, were not enjoined for Christians to observe as a standing ordinance of Christ. We had much freedom in exchanging sentiments with these tender people, who had read some parts of Barclay's Apology, lent to them by Alexander Webster since we were first there; they said they had never heard those matters so clearly stated as in this opportunity, and could say they now thought there was not anything essential

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