Whilst the Dr. showed himself the finished scholar by recitations from Pope, Byron, Milton and Moore; his head indeed appeared as a grand depositary, in which were hoarded all the beauties of the English Poets. This early specimen of varied taste and talents and of complaisance in the one half of our party gave me a sure prospect of a pleasant journey. But, alas, all our sweets were embittered, our prospects blasted, and his own brilliant endowments smothered by one leading passion in the Dr.-by intemperance. The ravages made by that single vice on that accomplished young man, and otherwise affectionate, were so dreadful, so abhorrent, that I shall, even at the risk of a digression from the path of my narrative, attempt to sketch them, in the hope that if young men have a true conception of his actual state, they would abhor the taste or even the smell of ardent liquor. He became indeed insane before the end of our journey.

Instead of the glass of pure wine that is safely taken now and then by people travelling in France on a dusty road and under a burning sun, the Dr. would take a bumper of strong brandy. Two days and one night (Paris being three days and two nights' journey from Lyons) had nearly elapsed before the tippling produced any other visible effect than inflamation of the eyes, and eruptions on his face. The first symptoms of insanity broke out on the evening of the second day; trembling and puffing; pulling off and putting on again his shoes; starting from seat to seat, from the middle to the corner, and from the corner to the middle seat, to guard his toes and corns from the contact of others. Now he yelled that the French lady on the opposite seat ruined his toe, and grasping her foot, he gave her a woeful shake. Seized as if with a shock of electricity, she screamed, Monsieur, vos etes tres grossier. Sir, you are extremely rude.' The terror and confusion of the three ladies by this time can be better conceived than expressed; they appeared not to understand the cause of his aberrations. Now the old lady, in her dignified tone, exclaims, For goodness sake why not let his toes and corns alone.' Whilst, in reality, no body at all touched them. Soon after, the young Irishman sympathizing with his mother and sister vociferates, 'What, man, do you want to scare the ladies to death?' As to threats and reprimands, he was

to them callous as the stone. So with continual tremor and blowing on his part, terror and vigilence on the ladies' part, we journied on until midnight, when we entered a village sixteen miles from Lyons. Descending by a long and narrow street we received light from two brilliant lamps that hung far below at both sides of a Police office. The nearer we approached them the clearer became `our view of each other in the vehicle. Hitherto had the Dr's motions been traced by feeling and touching, and with the glimmering light of the stars, but now he is seen in this new light more busy than ever he was, about his extremities. The three ladies on the back seats are wide awake to all the movements of his hands and feet

Strange to relate! behold at the hour of midnight, when all nature, save our party, was buried in profound sleep; when no voice nor sound, save that of our carriage, was heard, the Dr. starts from his seat, casts his fiery eyes across upon the matron and with uplifted, expanded paws as if to parry off the fierce beast of prey, pointing to her shawl, screams, the wolf the wolf!

Meanwhile the panic rises to the highest degree. The females rush to the door, exclaming, 'O la, let us go out, let us out for goodness sake before we are murdered.' The scene was indeed laughable, if the piteous state of the patient had not rather called for tears and grief. The young Irishman and the three women held a council in the street on the emergency. But as the English was the language of the majority, the French young woman was able to take no part in the deliberation, though the agitation of her frame showed clearly that she was not indifferent in this discussion. The matron' moved that we do abandon our seats and hire some other conveyance in the morning.' But her son replied that as the Priest takes the matter so easy, why should we be alarmed; moreover why should we all be afraid of one man, be his physical powers and madness ever so great. To this his sister answered, 'What, if he would draw his penknife to kill the wolf and thereby destroy my mother.' Her reasoning was over-ruled by her brother, who rejoined, When you three take the back seats as usual and the Priest and I will set at his right and left hand, we can all keep a close watch upon him for the remainder of our journey, which is now

but sixteen miles. This motion passed. They re-entered the carriage, having privately imparted to me their plan of defence and solicited my co-operation. Now the coachman cracked his whip and onward we moved. No better sentinels could be than the ladies until daylight. The Dr. as soon as a tavern is seen opening the door, rushes in his vamps out of the coach, swallows a bumper of cogniac, throws a crown upon the counter, whereas a few sous would suffice, and, with the agility of a bird, he returns to his seat. A dose so potent might be expected to excite his head more, but, it made him calm, stupid, languid.

Having parted with him in Lyons, the Irish family and I kept together for Avignon, a town sanctified for three hundred years by the residence of the Vicar of Christ. Whilst they were preparing dinner for us at the Hotel of the Golden Arm, we ascended by a grand escalade the lofty, conical rock, upon which stand in awful ruins the Churches and palaces of His Holiness. In What bosom would not a view of Avignon excite grief and pity for the vanity of earthly things; faith and hope in the promises of God. Heretics now ardent in pursuit of error, soon fall into eternal oblivion. The Vicar of Christ in Avignon or in Rome unshaken as the rock, because his Divine Master prayed that his faith shall not fail: LUKE Xxii. 32. Not less feasted by the reflections on the Rock of Avignon than by the soups and dainties of the tavern, we continued our route. But I am doomed soon after to lose my pious safe companions; they taking an eastern road for north Italy, I held the line for Marsailles, to the end of going, if possible, by water to some port in the States of the Church.

Soon after we took up on the road a young man of imposing dress and address, who had like to prove to me a disastrous fellow traveller, a melancholy substitute for the matron and her children. He passed himself as a Spaniard though his ruddy face and broken English would declare that he was born under a northern sun, perhaps in Holland, Prussia, or Denmark. He said that from a long residence and acquaintance in Marsailles he was able to procure for me comfortable private lodgings. Driving into the City at eight o'clock A. M. he and I delivered our trunks (his was a large one of a broken lock, which he had, there is no doubt, filched

from some fellow traveller) in charge to the agents at the coach office, and went to see these lodgings. After having visited and examined three or four of them, he abruptly turns to me and says that he had an invitation to breakfast from a friend, that it might be better for me to breakfast in the next coffee room, and that we would meet in an hour at the coach office to fetch away our trunks.' But instead of following his suggestion, I went directly thither, and, to my astonishment, I met him actually going out the door, with two little boys carrying both trunks. He had like to leave me in a foreign land stript of every thing in the world, save the half worn clothes on my back. But thou, O, God has said I will not leave thee, neither will I forsake thee: HEE. xiii. 5.

And what a novel scene opens to my view in Marsailles! The whole extent of the harbor really covered with a forest of masts; the flag of all nations under the sun waving aloft; all tribes and people mingled together in the streets and upon the wharves, loading and unloading wagons; landing and shipping goods; all tongues and dialects, the French, English, Dutch, Spanish, Portugese, Italian, German, Greek, and the Arabic gingling in the ear. Although riches and traffic smother the divine seed, the Churches and convents were here in fine preservation; hundreds were prostrate before each altar, not during the solemnities alone, but throughout the whloe day.

1

Here I met, as I expected, a feluca, called the Sparanza, a barge of the schooner kind, destined for Civita Vecchia, which is a sea port on the Mediterranean, within forty miles of Rome, and deemed myself fortunate in obtaining from her a passage, bed and board, for sixty francs; but it turned out a bad bargain in the end. They gave me, at our first interview, to understand that they had all preparations made to sail in two days, however the sun rose eleven times before we left the harbor; and that at a time when expedition and economy was suitable to my purse. Out they moved at last on a fine evening with a fair and gentle breeze, keeping not a south east course for Civita Vecchia; but east along the shore; and at night-fall they put into a little bay called Bidou, close by Frejus, celebrated for Bonaparte's landing from Elba. When I asked in broken French of the captain and

mate, who had a little knowledge of the French also, why they came to anchor such a fine evening; and why not pursue the direct course for the destined port; they casting an eye upon a thick and black cloud that was gathering from the north east, replied, Avremo il tempo cativo. 'We will have bad weather.' And the event verified their foreknowledge. For the gale that began soon after, and that continued five days and nights, would certainly overwhelm the Speranza in the Mediterranean waves had she continu ed on her course. Whilst she stood securely moored in a basinlike bay, shaded by lofty hills on all sides, bidding defiance to the warring elements, the crew and I beguiled the tedious day in picking on the green hills some little herbs; which formed, when saturated with the Italian oils, the most delicious salad. As the Speranza's sea store was perhaps not more abundant than my travelling means, they were not less impatient of delay than I. Consequently they got under weigh as soon as the weather moderated, keeping again the same easterly course. The cabin, which was a small apartment of ten feet square, and five high, was flanked with a bench to sit upon, over which were suspended with strings, two hammocks, one for the captain, and the other for the mate. I held by agreement peaceable possession of the cap. tain's berth ever since the commencement of the voyage, until the second night after our departure from this bay; when he, without any previous explanation or apology, turned himself into it; saying, you shall sleep in it no longer.' Again when he went upon deck to look out, I threw myself into the bed. Hereupon he sprung in fury through the cabin, squared his fists, gnashed his teeth, and with fury depicted in his fiery eyes, he gnawed, like a dog, the bed-clothes; but as his threats made no impression upon me, unsheathing his long knife, he cut the hammock strings, in hope, that the fall would heave me out; but, on the contrary, my extended frame brought down both ends of the bed simultaneously upon the bench beneath, where I continued stretched as upon a pallet bed. Now in particular, are his menaces vehement; nor are threats indeed wanting on my part either; though neither understood the other's language; what could not be expressed in words was conveyed by signs and grimace. Beholding his fury,