[275] of surface. The southern portions, which form the basin of the Orinoco, spread into the vast plains or llanos, which have been already described.

The soil of this country is generally rich, especially in the basin of the Orinoco. Its temperature, like that of New-Granada, varies with the elevation, from extreme heat to extreme cold; but the greater part has a fine and temperate climate. The productions are equally various and rich.

There are no mines of consequence to divert the inhabitants from agriculture, which is therefore in a better state than in other parts of South America. Still there is a great want of industry and enterprise, in improving the natural advantages of this fine country. Most attention is paid to the raising of cattle and the cultivation of cacao. These, and the usual productions of the Torrid Zone, furnish articles of export. One-fifth of the inhabitants only are whites.

Caraccas, the metropolis of this country, is situated in a valley, 2,900 feet above the sea. It is extremely subject to earthquakes, by one of which it was nearly destroyed in 1812. La Guira, its seaport, is on the coast, seven miles from the city. It has not a good harbour; but its commerce is extensive and important.

Porto Cavello, on the west of La Guira, is a port of considerable trade. Cumana is one of the principal towns of Venezuela, with a healthy climate, but subject to earthquakes. Its inhabitants are chiefly engaged in commerce or fisheries. Barcelona is chiefly a place of trade. Angostura, on the Orinoco, is also a place of some commerce.

GUIANA.

This name is applied to the whole tract lying between the Orinoco, the Cassiquiari, and the Amazon, which is in fact a vast island, enclosed by these rivers and the ocean. It is divided into the Spanish territories on the north; the Brazilian on the south; and the French, Dutch, and English, on the coast. A range of mountains separates the Portuguese or Brazilian possessions from the rest.

This country has been but partially explored, and most of the settlements are on the coasts, or the banks of the rivers. The greater part is occupied by the Indians, some of whom feed on human flesh. The coast is low and flat. The interior rises sometimes into mountains, and sometimes spreads into vast plains. It is generally level and fertile. The climate is hot, moist, and unhealthy. The vegetable productions are peculiarly delicious and luxuriant.

The Spanish and Portuguese territories are chiefly unsettled. The British and Dutch colonies, on the Essequebo, Demarara, Berbice, and Surinam Rivers, form an extensive plain, covered with flourishing plantations, between the sea and the forests. They are divided by numerous canals and dikes, and well cultivated. Surinam is the only division which now belongs to the Dutch. French Guiana is less improved in its condition.

Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana, has a large convenient port, and is noted for the pepper which bears its name. Paramaribo was the capital of the Dutch colonies on the Surinam River, about twenty miles from the sea. It is well built, and has a fine road for ships.

New-Amsterdam is the chief town in Berbice, intersected, like the Dutch towns in Europe, by canals. Stabroek is the principal town of Demarara, and the centre of commerce for this part of Guiana.

Brazil is equal in extent to the whole territory of the United States, and occu pies about one-third of South America. The coast is settled by Europeans; but the interior is a vast forest, of which they have explored only a small part.

The soil is generally well watered and fertile, and the aspect of the country is beautiful. The climate varies from the Equatorial to the Temperate. The interior enjoys the peculiar advantages of an elevated tract in a warm climate. The productions, both of the Torrid and Temperate Zones, flourish in the latitudes and elevation adapted to them. Brazil is not less rich in mineral treasures, supplying a large part of the diamonds of commerce, besides other precious stones, and the precious metals, to a great amount. There is not probably any country in the world which enjoys greater natural advantages, in the excellence of its soil and

climate, the luxuriance and variety of its vegetable productions, and the value of its minerals. Yet in consequence of the character of its inhabitants, it is far behind most civilized countries in improvements, wealth, and power.

The people are excessively indolent, and the state of education is very low. The passion for mining, and for the rapid acquisition of wealth, leads to the neglect of every species of industry. Almost all the labour is performed by negroes. Agriculture is wretched, and manufactures scarcely exist. Commerce is carried on under every disadvantage, from the want of enterprise, and the oppressive restrictions of the late government, which monopolized some of the most important branches. The roads, the cities, the houses, the food, and the manner of living in Brazil, are all marked with the effects of indolence and carelessness, which deprive the people of many of the comforts enjoyed in less favoured countries.

Rio Janeiro is the most important, populous, and commercial city. It is situated on a narrow strip of land, between the sea and the mountains. Its harbour is one of the finest in the world. It has extensive foreign commerce, and is also the great mart of the interior. It is said to be centuries behind the European capitals in the comforts of civilized life. Bahia, or St. Salvador, is the second city of Brazil in size and commercial importance. It is divided, like Quebec, into a lower and upper town; and the streets have so steep an ascent, as to prevent the use of carriages.

Pernambuco is a populous and commercial town, sometimes considered as including the town of Olinda, not far distant. It is divided into three portions by the river on which it stands. One of these divisions, called Recife, is the seat of trade. The harbour is protected by a singular reef of rocks, resembling a work of art, with a narrow passage, which admits only one vessel at a time. Porto Seguro is a considerable town on the coast.

St. Paul's is one of the most noted towns of the interior, and a place of some refinement. Villa Rica is the capital of Minas Geraes, and the centre of a mining district formerly very important. Tejuco is the capital of the diamond district. Villa Boa, near the centre of Brazil, is a populous and flourishing mining town.

PERU.

Peru is a long, narrow tract, lying on both sides of the Andes. It is divided into High and Low Peru. Low Peru is an inclined plane, from ten to twenty leagues broad, extending from the ocean to the first chain of the Andes, or the Cordilleras of the coast. It is excessively hot and sterile, in consequence of the entire want of rain; and deserts of thirty to forty leagues in length, are frequent on the coast. High Peru lies between the two principal ridges of the [277] Andes, considerably elevated above the sea. Its climate is therefore excellent. The surface is various, but the soil is generally fertile. On the eastern declivity of the Andes, the country gradually descends into the extensive, grassy plains of

Brazil and Venezuela.

The vegetable products of Peru comprise those of tropical and temperate climates. The Peruvian bark is peculiarly valuable. The mountainous districts, which are too sterile for cultivation, abound in mines of gold, silver, and mercury; but some of the most valuable formerly included in Peru, are transferred to the government of La Plata.

Peru is thinly populated, and there is a total want of good roads, bridges, and canals, to facilitate transportation. Industry is discouraged for want of an opportunity of carrying its products to a market, as well as by causes common to other parts of South America. Agriculture is much neglected; and this fertile country is entirely dependent on others for its supplies of bread. Manufactures are in no better state. So many valuable articles of export are produced, that commerce is still very important. It is chiefly with La Plata, and is carried on over the Andes.

Lima is the metropolis of Peru, and is one of the most wealthy and commercial cities in South America. It is distinguished for the magnificence of its public buildings, the luxury and ostentation of its people, and the rich ornaments of silver, gold, and precious stones, with which its churches are filled. It has ni

versity, and there is a taste for literature among many of the inhabitants. Callao, about six miles distant, is its port, and one of the best in South America.

Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Peruvian empire, is situated in the interior, in a province of this name. It has many fine buildings, and retains something of its former magnificence. Arequipa is one of the largest and best built cities of Peru, situated on an elevated plain. Aranta, its port, has a good harbour, but difficult of access. Guamanga is well built, and has a university. Tarma and Truxillo are small towns, the capitals of the two provinces of the same name, north of Lima. Guanca-Velica is the most elevated city on the globe, nearly three miles above the level of the sea. It is celebrated for its mines of mercury, gold, and silver.

CHILI.

Chili is a narrow tract lying chiefly on the declivity of the Andes, and extending about 1,200 miles in length, between the sea and the mountains. Only eight or nine narrow passes exist through this barrier, which divides it from the rest of South America; and the passage over the Desert of Atacama on the north is almost equally difficult. It is watered by 120 rivers, all of which have a short course and rapid current; but several are navigable half their length by ships of the line. It is commonly divided into two portions, the maritime and the midland country. The maritime country is intersected by three chains of mountains, parallel to the Andes. The midland country is an elevated plain.

The climate is remarkably fine and salubrious. In the northern provinces it rarely rains, and thunder is scarcely known in any part of the country. The dews are abundant. Volcanoes are numerous among the Andes, and earthquakes occur several times a year.

The soil is very fertile, particularly in the valleys of the Andes, and produces the vegetables of Europe, as well as many peculiar to this country, in profusion. It farnishes the finest grain, vines, and olives, and abounds with oranges and lemons. Whole forests of apple, peach, and pear trees are found in the southern provinces. [278] The portion of Chili, south of Conception, is possessed by independent tribes of Indians, with the exception of the fortress of Valdivia.

The Chilese are intelligent, hospitable, and humane. They appear to be superior in industry to other inhabitants of South America. There is little education, and before the revolution there was no printing press in the country. Agriculture is conducted with all the skill necessary in this productive region, and its fruits are very abundant. The chief labour required is in irrigation. Manufactures and mechanic arts are in a low state. The products of agriculture and mines are exported to a considerable amount; and Chili chiefly supplies Peru with wheat. Santiago, or St. Jago, the capital, is finely situated near the mining region, and is the emporium of the commerce of Chili. Valparaiso is the port of Santiago. It has an excellent harbour and a considerable amount of commerce.

Conception is the third city of Chili, and is considered the metropolis of the southern part. Talcahuano, its port, is six miles distant, and has a fine harbour. Coquimbo and Copiapo have good harbours. Valdivia has one of the finest on the coast; but it has no cultivated country around it to give it importance. The city is five miles from the sea, on a river of the same name.

Chiloe, and the adjacent isles, are inhabited by the Chilotes, a very ingenious race of Indians subdued by the Spaniards.

The island of Juan Fernandes, off this coast, was the residence of Alexander Selkirk, whose story gave rise to the romance "Robinson Crusoe."

THE UNITED PROVINCES OF LA PLATA, OR BUENOS

AYRES.

This country, formerly a viceroyalty of Spain, is now independent, and is composed of a number of states, whose boundaries are not well defined or settled. It was divided into eight intendancies. That of Buenos Ayres is on the south, and Paraguay lies north of it on the River Paraguay. Salta and Cordova (formerly Tucuman) lie between these provinces and the Andes. Potosi, Charcas, Cocha bamba and La Paz, in the mountainous mining districts on the north-west, which

were formerly a part of Peru, now constitute the independent republic of Bolivia or Upper Peru, embracing also the provinces of Chiquitos and Moxos. The two latter are chiefly occupied by Indians, partially civilized by the Jesuits.

The southern part of La Plata lies in the basin of the Paraguay, and spreads out into an immense plain, between that river and the Andes of Chili. The unin habited pampas, already described, extend into Patagonia on the south to an unknown distance, presenting a vast expanse of waving grass, and affording pasture to innumerable herds of cattle. The hills which occasionally occur, seldom rise more than 500 feet. Lakes are numerous. The northern districts are rough, mountainous, and barren, but rich in mineral treasures.

The climate of this extensive region is varied by the latitude, but still more by the situation of the ground. The plains are excessively hot in summer. The coast has a temperate climate, and water freezes but slightly in the winter. The elevated tracts have the customary varieties of temperature. The productions vary with the climate, including those of the Temperate and Torrid Zones.

The people of La Plata, like those of other parts of South America, are little cultivated in any respect. Agriculture is scarcely attended to. Manufactures are in a low state. The cattle of the pampas, and the mines of the upper pro- [279] vinces, furnish the chief articles of export; and commerce is now free from the restrictions formerly imposed.

The government of these provinces does not appear to be fully settled, nor the union completed. Great efforts are now made in Buenos Ayres for the introduction of knowledge and arts. Such was the state of the country formerly, that a person educated at one of their colleges never saw a printing press, until he visited Buenos Ayres after the revolution. With the greatest exertion, it must be long in arriving at the state of improvement of European countries.

Buenos Ayres is the chief city, and centre of trade, of the southern part of South America. It is well built and fortified and is increasing in wealth and population. The River La Plata is here thirty miles wide, but it does not form a safe harbour, on account of the storms which frequently occur. Monte Video, on the north shore of the La Plata, is 120 miles east of Buenos Ayres, on a peninsula. Its harbour is deep, and the best on the river. Cordova is a mart for the trade of the interior.

PARAGUAY.

Paraguay was a province of the viceroyalty of La Plata, but is not connected with the new republic. It is an independent community, composed chiefly of civilized Indians, under the direction of a European chief, who appears to exercise absolute authority. Strangers are not allowed to visit it, and our knowledge of its present state is very limited.

It is a level region, extremely well watered, and fertilized to a great extent by annual inundations. Its climate is generally moist and temperate. Its vegetable productions are varied and valuable, and it is remarkable for the matte, a plant which is used like tea among the Chinese, and which it exports in large quantities to all the surrounding countries. Its trade in this and other productions is im portant.

Assumption is the capital of Paraguay.

UPPER PERU OR BOLIVIA.

The new republic of Bolivia embraces the provinces which were formerly called Upper Peru. It is an elevated region, surrounded by the Andes and their branches, and the Brazilian mountains, giving rise to numerous and large streams. It is extremely rugged and mountainous, and in some parts desert. Its climate is generally cold on account of the elevation, and its vegetable productions few and scanty. Still there are some districts which are level and fertile; and some which are even so hot as to produce cotton.

The chief wealth of this country consists in its mines of silver and gold, which have long been celebrated as the richest in the world. Its commerce in the precious metals is immensely valuable; and supplies the inhabitants with all the

luxuries of other countries. It is also the centre of trade between La Plata and the western coast.

Potosi is situated in a cold and sterile region, but its mines give it immense wealth and importance. It is divided into the city, and the Ingenios, or laboratories of the mines. It is the centre of all the commerce between Buenos Ayres and the interior provinces, and is immensely rich in gold and silver. Its luxury and dissipation are proportioned to its wealth. Charcas, or La Plata, is a neat city in a fine climate. It has a university, two colleges, and a law school. La Paz is a well-built city, in a fertile but cold region. It is remarkable for an almshouse, the only institution of the kind in South America.

INDEPENDENT TRIBES OF SOUTH AMERICA.

The Native Tribes of South America are accustomed to gain their subsistence by cultivation; and the luxuriance of vegetation in the Torrid Zone, renders a small spot of ground sufficient to supply the wants of a tribe. Hence they were always more numerous than the Indians of the United States territory; and they have not been diminished or driven away, as the North American Indians have been by the cultivation and settlement of their hunting grounds.

The independent tribes occupy the southern projection of South America, usually called Patagonia; and the central regions, termed Amazonia.

PATAGONIA.

Patagonia extends from the pampas of La Plata, to Cape Horn. It has never been fully explored or described. Its surface is varied by the Andes, which pass through it, and descends gradually to the level of the pampas on the north. It has the climate and productions of Buenos Ayres in the northern parts; but the southern appear to have all the inclemency and sterility of the Frozen Regions. Patagonia is inhabited by two principal nations of Indians, each divided into several tribes. The Puelches occupy the Atlantic coast, and extend for some distance into the interior. The Moluches are in the western section, extending across the Andes to the Pacific Ocean. Some of the tribes, especially those on the Straits of Magellan, are remarkable for their stature, and generally measure [280] six feet and a half in height. None of these Indians have been civilized. They have learned the use of horses from the Spaniards, and sometimes rob the caravans on the pampas. They exhibit a warlike and ferocious spirit.

The Araucanians of Chili are the most powerful and warlike of all the Indian nations in the southern part of the continent, resembling the North American Indians in their character, and particularly in their fondness for eloquence. They are more intelligent and cultivated than any existing tribe of natives.

They have maintained their independence, by a series of bloody wars for two centuries, although surrounded by the Spaniards of Chili; and their ambassadors are now received as residents at the Spanish capital. They have acquired many of the arts necessary to subsistence, and exhibit a degree of literary taste which is scarcely found in any other natives. They are divided into several tribes governed by hereditary chiefs, who are all subject to a general elected for the purpose, in time of war. Their government seems to be administered as regularly as in civilized nations.

The Abipones are an independent nation residing on the banks of the River La Plata. They have a bold and warlike disposition; but they are much less cultivated and interesting than the Araucanians.

AMAZONIA.

Amazonia, although not a political, or even a natural division of South America, is a convenient term to designate the vast wilderness which forms the interior of Brazil, Peru, Guiana, and Colombia, lying on the Amazon and Orinoco Rivers. It is nominally included in these governments, but is really controlled by numberless tribes of Indians, whose character is scarcely known, and whose territory is almost unexplored. The climate and aspect of the country, so far as examined, resembles that of the surrounding regions.