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the situation required, taking care to make them rest upon a beam, and to have the deck properly shored up below.

Finally, give the shears the necessary rake by means of the guys.* and set taut the guys and heel tackles. Also five or six feet above the deck, on each leg put two cleets, for the purpose of applying two stout lashings from them above to the dead-eyes in the channels below, in order to give greater security; this being done, the shears may be considered ready.

TO TAKE IN THE MIZZENMAST.-Tow the mizzenmast alongside with the head aft, and the garland lashed on the forward part of the mast, above the centre; lash a pair of girtline blocks on the mast-head, and reeve the girtlines; bend the shear-head girtline to the mast below the bibbs, to cant it. Over-haul the main-purchase down abaft, thrust the strap through the eyes of the garland, toggle it, and secure the toggle by a back lashing. Take the fall to the capstan and "heave round;" when the heel rises near the rail, hook on a heel-tackle to ease it inboard. Get the mast fair for lowering by means of the girtlines, wipe, the tennon dry, and tar both it and the step; "lower away," and step the mast.

Some distance may be saved by using no garlands, and having the purchase blocks lashed to the mast. The mast being stepped and wedged temporarily, "come up" the purchases, man the guy and heel tackles, and transport the shears forward for taking in the mainmast.

The object of taking in the mizzenmast first is, because the breadth of beam is less aft than forward, and the heels of the shears being spread more as they go forward, the head lashing consequently becomes tauter; moreover, if the mizzenmast was taken in last the bowsprit must be got in first, and thus the advantage of securing the shears to the foremast-head when getting in the bowsprit would be lost.

TO TAKE IN THE MAIN AND FOREMAST.-Proceed in the same manner as in getting in the mizzenmast, bousing the shears forward with their shoes, by means of the heel tackles. It is better not to use garlands, when the shear legs are rather short, as lashing the purchase blocks to the mast shortens the distance. If the ship has a topgallant-forecastle, it would be well to step the mast forward of the shear legs, for the brake of the forecastle comes abreast of the partners; and in a case of this kind it would be well to take in the foremast first.

The main-tackle must be brought nearly to the plum of the mast-hole.

+ The rule in this case is to take the height of the rail to the position of the lower block, when the tackle is block and block; and lash the lower block to the mast alongside, at a less distance from the heel than from the block to the rail, and must be above the part that takes the combings.

TO TAKE IN THE BOWSPRIT.-Having stepped and secured the foremast, carry the forward guys aft and rake the shears over the bow; toggle the lower block of the main-tackle to a garland lashed to the upper part of the bowsprit, inside of the centre. Put on the cap, and carry tackles or guys from the bowsprit-head to the cat-head, and clap on a heel-tackle or guy. Heave the bowsprit, and direct it by the small tackles and guys.

If the ship has a topgallant-forecastle, the bowsprit cannot be taken in with the shears without the assistance of a derrick, on account of the brake of the forecastle, it not being prudent to step shears on the top of it.

SENDING A TRESTLE-TREE ALOFT.-One girtline is used, the trestletree is slung with a span, so as to hang square, and to keep the girtline clear of the midship part which is to land on the hounds of the mast.

When both trestle-trees are in their places, they are bolted together through the mast-head. (A rope is clove-hitched round the mast-head for the men to steady themselves with whilst working aloft.)

TO PLACE A LOWER CROSS-TREE.-One girtline is bent to the crosstree on its own side, and is stopped to the opposite arm amidships. -"sway away." When above the trestle-tree cut the upper stop, it will then hang square. The men aloft place and bolt it down to the trestle-trees.

TO GET THE TOPS OVER THE MAST-HEADS.-Place the top on deck abaft the mast; get a girtline on each side of the mast-head, and pass the end of each under the top, through the holes in the after part; clinch them to their own parts, and stop them to the fore part of the top with slip-stops. Have a guy to the fore, and another to the after part of the top. Make the ends of a span fast to the after corners of the top, and bend a girtline from the mast-head to the bight of the span, and stop it to the forward part of the top. Sway away on the girtlines. When the fore part of the top is above the trestle-trees, cut the spanstops; and when the after part is above them, cast off the slip-stops. When the lubber-hole is high enough to clear the mast-head, haul on the forward guy, and let the top hang horizontally by the girtlines. Lower away, place, and bolt it.

The tops may be got over without the span and girtline, by stopping the two girtlines first rove to the middle as well as to the fore part of the top, and cutting the upper stops first. The fore and main tops are sent up from abaft, and the mizzen from forward.

ON CUTTING LOWER RIGGING.-Draw a line from the side of the partners abreast of the mast, on the deck, parallel to the channels, and

to extend as far aft as they do. On this line mark the places of each dead-eye, corresponding to their places against the channels. Send a line up to the mast-head, and fasten it to the mast by a nail above the bibbs, in a range with the centre of the mast, and opposite to the side the channel line is drawn upon. Then take the bight of the line around the forward part of the mast, and fasten it to the mast by a nail, opposite the first nail, so that the part between the nails will be half the circumference of the mast-head; then take the line down to the mark on the channel line for the forward dead-eye, and mark it as before; and so on, until you have got the distance between the mast and each mark on the channel line. Now cast off the line from the mast-head, and the distance between the end of the line and each mark will give you the length of each shroud from the lower part of the mast-head. And to make allowance for one pair of shrouds overlaying another, you may increase the length of the pair put on second-that is, the port forward ones-by twice the diameter of the rigging, the third pair by four times, and so on.

For the length of the fore, main, and mizzen-stays, take the distance from the after part of the mast-head to their hearts, or to the place where they are set up, adding once the length of the mast-head for the collar. The standing stays should be once and a half the circumference of the shrouds.

FITTING LOWER RIGGING.-Get it on a stretch, and divide each pair of shrouds into thirds, and mark the centre of the middle third. Tar, worm, parcel, and serve the middle third. Parcel with the lay of the rope, working towards the centre; and serve against the lay, beginning where you left off parcelling; serve as taut as possible. In some vessels the outer thirds of the swifter are served; but matting and battens are neater, and more generally used.

Formerly the middle third was parcelled over the service, below the wake of the futtock-staff. Mark an eye at the centre of the middle third, by seizing the parts together with a round seizing. The eye of the pair of shrouds that goes on first should be once and a quarter the circumference of the mast-head, and make each of the other in succession the breadth of a seizing larger than the one below it.

Parcel the score of the dead-eye, and heave the shroud taut round it, turning in with the sun if right-hand laid rope, and against the sun if hawser-laid; then pass the throat seizing with nine or ten turns, the outer turns being slacker than the middle ones. Pass the quarter seizings half way to the end, and then the end seizings, and cap the shroud, well tarred under the cap.

Make a Matthew Walker knot in one end of the lanyard, reeve the

other end out through the dead-eye of the shroud, beginning at the side of the dead-eye upon which the end of the shroud comes, and in through the dead-eye in the channels, so that the hauling part of the lanyard may come in-board, and on the same side with the standing part of the shroud. If the shroud is right-hand laid rope, the standing part of the shroud will be aft on the starboard, and forward on the port side, and the reverse if hawser-laid.

The neatest way of setting up the lower fore-and-aft stays is by reeving them down through the bull's-eye, with tarred parcelling upon the thimble, and setting them up on their ends, with three or four seizings. The collar of the stay is the length of the mast-head, and is leathered over the service. The service should go beyond the wake of the foot of the topsail, and the main-stay should be served in the wake of the foremast. The main-stays are now frequently set up to strong bolts in the deck.

RIGGING THE FORE, MAIN, AND MIZZENMASTS.-Before the trestletrees are sent up, white lead the mast-head in the wake of them, overhaul down the girtlings, and bend on the trestle-trees, with the after chock out, "sway away;" when above the bibbs, slip the stops so as to let them come down gradually into their places; then the after chock is sent up, let in, and bolted. Tar the mast-head in the way of the rigging, overhaul again the girtlines for the bolsters, which are covered well with tarred canvas-sway them aloft and stop them. The girtline blocks are now lashed to the after part of the trestle-trees. Next the shrouds are hoisted over the mast-head-the starboard forward shroud first, then the port, and so on, alternately, taking care that the seizing aloft bears in a parallel direction, between the two lower dead-eyes which the shrouds will be set up to. As each pair of shrouds are put over the mast-head, drive them down as close as possible; the stay is now to be placed abaft, and below all.

TO RIG A BowSPRIT.-Lash collars for the forestay, bobstays, and bowsprit shrouds, and put on the bees for the topmast stays; fit the manropes, pass the gammoning, and set up bobstays and shrouds.

TO SEND UP A TOPMAST.-Get the topmast alongside, with its head forward. Lash a top-block to the head of the lower-mast, reeve a mast-rope through it from aft forward, and bring the end down through the trestle-trees and reeve it through the sheave-hole of the topmast, hitching it to its own part a little below the topmast head, and stopping both parts to the mast at intervals. Snatch the rope and sway away. As soon as the head is through the lower cap, cast off the end of the mast-rope, letting the mast hang by the stops, and hitch it to the staple in the other end of the cap. Cast off the stops, and sway away.

Point the head of the mast between the trestle-trees and through the hole in the lower cap, the round hole of which must be put over the square hole of the trestle-trees. Lash the cap to the mast, hoist away, and when high enough, lower a little and secure the cap to the lowermast-head. (This is when it cannot be put on by hand.)

TO SEND TOPMAST CROSS-TREES UP.-If the cross-trees are heavy, they may be placed in the following manner :-Sway away until the topmasthead is a few feet above the lower cap. Send up the cross-trees by girtlines, and let the after part rest on the lower cap, and the forward part against the topmast. Lower away the topmast until the cross-trees fall into their place, and then hoist until they rest on the shoulders.

PLACING TOPMAST RIGGING.-Tar the mast in the wake of the rigging, and clothe the bolsters as the lower ones; then the shrouds are swayed up and placed over the topmast-head, the first pair on the starboard forward, then the port, and so on with the other pairs. Backstays are hoisted and placed the same as the shrouds-stays are swayed up and lashed abaft the topmast-head.

TO CROSS A LOWER YARD.-Bring it alongside with the opposite yard-arm forward, reeve the yard-rope through the jeer block of the mast-head, make it fast to the slings of the yard, and stop it out to the yard-arm. Sway away, and cast off the stops as the yard comes over the side, and get the yard across the bulwarks. Lower yards are rigged now with iron trusses and quarter blocks, which would be fitted before rigging the yard. Hook on the clew-garnet block-the lifts, brace pennants, and foot-ropes are spliced or hooked into rings with thimbles on an iron band round the yard-arm, next the shoulders. Reeve the lifts and braces, get two large tackles from the mast-head to the quarters of the yard, and sway away on them and on the lifts, bearing off and sluing the yard by means of guys. Secure the yard by the iron trusses and haul taut lifts and braces.

TO CROSS A TOPSAIL-YARD.-Proceed as with lower-yard; when above lower-stay hook brace-pennants and lifts on-sway away-when high enough, square with lifts, and parral it.

THE MIZZEN TOPSAIL-YARD is rigged nearly the same as the main and mizzen, but the brace-blocks are on the foreside.

JOINING SHIP AND FITTING HER OUT.-Suppose you join a ship having only her lowermasts and bowsprit standing-first, secure the bowsprit by means of the bobstays, gammoning, and shrouds; next get the tops over the mast-head, then tar and parcel the bolsters well, and place them, then get the rigging over the mast-head in the order stated before; set the rigging up and stay it, next, get the lower cap on, the topmast up, topmast cross-tree on, topmast rigging over, &c.

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