ceed the bulbs, roses to follow, then pelargoniums, fuchsias, chrysanthemums, etc., to wind up the routine. The two sets of roses grown for the purpose consist of common Provence and Hybrid Perpetuals, to make two displays, one succeeding the other. They are all grown in eight-inch pots, and by a very simple process. In February they are all turned out of their pots, their roots moderately shortened, and their shoots cut back to five or six buds. They are then repotted in a mixture of half turfy loam and half rotten stable dung, the stuff being rammed into the pots with a wooden rammer. They are then packed as close together as possible in a bed of cocoa-nut dust, and so left till the middle of April. A large dung bed is then made up by throwing long dung together, four or five feet deep, sprinkling it with water from time to time as the work proceeds; and on this, when beaten smooth with the fork, the pots are placed and packed to their rims with cocoa-nut dust. The bed is not covered, and no particular care is taken to ferment the dung as for an ordinary hot-bed, because being in the open air it is not likely to heat immoderately. At the same time it would not be judicious to heap up a large bulk of material that had not already gone through a first heating, as there would be danger of burning the roots of the roses, and the heat would be as brief as it was fierce. With abundance of water the plants bloom superbly, and

being in the open air they have their full size, colour, and fragrance; and by putting them on these beds in batches a succession may be obtained for plunging out. The only care taken in respect to a succession in my own case is, to put in the Provence roses a fortnight or three weeks before the Perpetuals. This ensures an early bloom of the Provence, which are used up in time to be succeeded by the first bloom of the Perpetuals.

The following are a few useful varieties to grow on their own roots for plunging out, and to select a few for the window or greenhouse.

ROSE AND CHERRY COLOUR.

Anna Alexieff, H. P.

Anna de Diesbach, H. P.

Baronne Prevost, H. P.

Bourbon Queen, B.

Caroline de Sansal, H. P.

Comtesse de Chabrilland, H. P.

François Premier, H. P.

George Cuvier, B.

Jules Magottin, H. P.

La Reine, H. P.

Madame Cousin, B.

Madame Hector Jacquin, H. P.

Madame Breon, Ch.

Madame Knorr, H. P.

Mrs. Bosanquet, Ch.

Mademoiselle Haiman, H. P、

Sir J. Paxton, B.

William Griffith, H. P.

CRIMSON.

Beauty of Waltham, H. P.
Cramoisie Superieure, Ch.

Charles Lefebre, H. P.
Eugene Appert, H. P.
Fellenberg, N.

Géant des Batailles, H. P.

General Castellane, H. P.
General Jacqueminot, H. P.
Madame Laffay, H. P.
Prince Albert, B.

Prince Leon, H. P.

Victor Verdier, H. P.

POT ROSES FOR EXHIBITION.

The sizes of the pots in which roses are grown for exhibition must be determined by the schedules of the shows whereat they are to be exhibited. But it is impossible to grow roses fit for show in less sized pots than nine inches diameter; and for grand specimens the pots must be fifteen inches in diameter. Between these two extremes the cultivator must take his choice, according to the requirements of the schedule and his own means and taste. As a rule, the best plants for show are those worked on

short straight brier stems, six to eighteen inches high, but Manetti bushes are eligible and so are trained climbers on Boursault, Banksian, Félicité, Manetti, and own roots. From the very first it must be borne in mind that to exhibit twelve the cultivator should have in hand at least thirty-six, and so on for every distinct effort at exhibiting, for it is impossible to rely upon having so many in bloom and in exhibition condition for such and such a day. If a hundred were grown, it might be difficult to find a dozen fit for show on a day perhaps well adapted to roses generally. But as the dates of shows are fixed before any one knows what sort of season it will be, the exhibitor must have two strings to his bow, first plenty of plants and secondly skilful management. Supposing stems to be preferred, the selection must be made in October or November, from a batch of budded plants that has been grown with a view to be flowered as specimens. Choose from these such as have a regular disposition of stout hard wood; if the shoots are as regular as the ribs of an umbrella, the better for the shape of the trees hereafter. But it is equally important to see that the roots are good, and of such a kind that the plants can be potted in the centres of the pots; for if there are huge knobs of underground timber, such as often occurs on old briers, they cannot be potted properly, and must be rejected. Having selected the plants, proceed to shorten the longer shoots

about a third of their length, and then pot them, using two parts sound turfy loam and one part rotten stable dung, and ramming the soil into the pots quite hard. Place the pots on a hard pavement of stone or slate out of doors, and fill in between the pots with sawdust or cocoa-nut dust. To protect them against injury by frost, a few uprights and rails may be arranged on which to throw mats or nets, as in the cut.

In case of very severe frost throw a little loose dry straw or hay amongst them, and they will escape unhurt. At the latter part of February, take them out and This must be done with care, them. prune and according to the rules laid down for pruning the particular groups and varieties. The operator must have in view the formation of a close and symmetrical head, and symmetry must be thought of more than size, because the size can be enlarged from year to year; but it is very difficult, if the head is badly shaped in the first instance, to improve it afterwards. Where two branches cross each other