VIEWS, CUSTOMS, and CURIOSITIES in SWITZERLAND. [From Mr. LEMAISTRE'S TRAVELS.] ATURDAY, Sept. 4, 1802. SAT We left Lausanne at seven o'clock; breakfasted at Meudon, where we found a good but extravagant inn; and arrived, about five in the evening, at Payerne, where we took up our quarters at the sign of the Hôtel de Ville. The country through which we traveled in the morning was poor, hilly, and barren; but about five miles from Payerne we came into a very pretty country, and passed through a fine wood of considerable extent. Sunday, Sept. 5.-We set out from Payerne at half past five in the morning, and arrived at Fribourg at eight. We traveled through a delightful country extremely well cultivated, and over roads uncommonly good. On entering the canton of Fribourg, we were much entertained with the dresses of the peasants: the women wear large straw hats ornamented with black lace, and their hair is plaited in large tresses round their head the men are dressed in red cloth waistcoats, and round hats with gold bands. The catholic churches are decorated with pictures over the door of each, and the tombs with colored crucifixes. Fribourg is a small but pretty town: the cathedral is a very fine building. I visited the convent of the Capuchins, which is still in existence, and went through the whole house. There are twentyfour brothers, or members, of this community. The one who received me took great pains to convince me that he was happy, and perfectly satisfied with his situation. I can only say-' Credat Judæus Apella; non ego.' In going away I offered money to my civil conductor; but he would not receive it; and insisted on giving me, as I left the monastery, a nosegay, the produce of the garden belonging to the house. "We afterwards went to the female convent of Ursulines. Five or six nuns appeared at the grate of the parloir; but, alas! not one was either young or pretty they were all, however, civil, talkative, and gay. These nuns amuse themselves with making artificial flowers, some of which we of course bought. "We then drove to the Hermitage, about four miles from the town. This is a spot which affords a curious instance of persevering and useless industry. It is a vast hermitage, consisting of a dormi tory, a chapel, a large saloon, a kitchen, and other apartments, cut out of a rock by the incessant labor of two men, who successively made this place their retreat. The first person who settled here was satisfied with forming an apart ment for his own use; but his successor consumed his life in bringing it to its present state. Unfortunately the present hermit, who is the third occupier of this singular habitation, was not at home: this circumstance prevented my seeing his own room; but I gained admittance into several chambers of considerable size, particularly the chapel and the hall. "The situation of this strange residence is romantic and beautiful. The The rock of which it is formed overhangs the river Sane; which,' as Mr. Coxe observes, after having meandered through two chains of mountains covered with wood, waters all the valley below.' "About two o'clock we returned to Fribourg, and, getting into our corbeille, (the horses of which we had left to rest, while we took this excursion in a carriage of the country), we continued our route towards Berne. The country through which we passed was well wooded, rich, and highly cultivated. The houses, built of wood, are without chimneys-the smoke being allowed to make its way through the doors or windows; and the roofs are of tile. When we came into the canton of Berne, we instantly perceived the change by the dress of the people, by the superior state of agriculture, and by the general appearance of wealth and comfort. The women are clad in black jackets, blue waistcoats, and straw hats; and their hair is dressed in long plaits which fall to the ground. We reached Berne at eight in the evening, and found very comfortable accommodations at the sign of La Cou ronue. Monday, Sept. 6.-We proceeded after breakfast this morning to view the curiosities of the town, The High-street is long, wide, and handsome. The houses are built of stone, and there are trottoirs, or flag stones, for foot passengers, with the addition of colonnades, or piazzas, of an elegant construction, which protect the inhabitants from the heat of the sun in summer and from the fall of rain in vinter. "The German language is spoken almost universally in Berne. Having missed the door of my inh in this street, it was long before I could find any person sufficiently conversant with the French either to understand or satisfy my inquiries. The cathedral is a handsome edince; and the terrace near it commands a most sublime and magnificent prospect, of which a country singularly rich and romantic-the Aar, a river of much beauty and the mighty range of Alps, which are seen in all their grandeur-form the objects. We ascended the top of the church, and thence the view was if possible still more picturesque. We also saw the town and environs to great advantage from this elevated spot. "After enjoying for some time this delightful landscape, we descended, and went from the cathedral to the public library. The collection of books is not large, but made with considerable judge, ment. The rooms appropriated to this purpose are handsome and lively. There is also here a museum of stuffed birds, fossils, and other curiosities in natural history. The walls of the different apartments belonging to this library are orna mented with the pictures of the former magistrates of Berne, clad in their official dresses. "We next visited the mint, or Hôtel des Monnoics, which is a small neat building. The manager, an Englishman by birth, had the politeness to show us the interior of this establishment, where several workmen were employed in coining small pieces of base money, composed of equal portions of sil ver and alloy. The value of each of these pieces is the tenth part of a batz, and a batz is worth two pence English. "From the mint we were conducted to the infirmary and the hospital. Hospital. The latter forms a large square, having a garden for its centre; is very airy, and apparently well managed. We did not go into the rooms; but we understood from every body that they were kept in great order. I smiled involuntarily at the patriotic prejudices of my guide, who, on my observ. ing that the hospital seemed uncommonly clean, exclaimed, with a deep sigh,Ah, monsieur, si vons l'eussiez vu avant la révolu tion, c'étoit bien une autre chose*." The Swiss, one may conclude from this remark, entertain so great an antipathy to their present government, that they consider every thing as deteriorated. According to this opinion, even washing, scouring, and sweeping, cannot be now so well performed as formerly. "We spent the rest of the morning in wandering over the town, which is uncommonly neat and pretty in every part. We dined at an early hour, and proceeded afterwards on our road to Thun, which is distant about eighteen miles from Berne. "We arrived at the former of these places at seven in the evening, after a delightful journey. The road was excellent, and the views more than commonly beautiful. A cultivated and well wooded valley, filled with pretty villages, was the country through which we traveled, and the towering Alps finished the landscape. "Tuesday, Sept. 7.-We left our carriage to await our return at Le Freyhoff, the little inn of Thun, and got into a boat covered with oiled skin and rowed by three men, at a little before nine o'clock this morning. After rowing for a short distance on the river Aar, we found ourselves on the lake of Thun; one bank of which presents majestic mountains (particularly le Niese and le Stockhorne), and the other, fine woods and rich vineyards. As we moved along on this wide and beautiful piece of water, we re marked le château de Oberhoffen, where formerly resided a bailiff of Berne, and near it a gentleman's seat, belonging to M. de Vatevell. Under the Nicse I perceived, in a sweet situation, a white little church, which seemed as if it had been an object placed there on purpose to increase the beauty of the landscape. Further on, on the same side, we observed the castle and church of Spietz, belonging for nerly to the barons of Boutenbourg, and at present to the ancient family of D'Erlach of Berne. "On the other bank, we noticed a curious old wooden house, with the horns of a deer suspended as a sign before it. The next objects which attracted our attention were the house and village of Meerlingen, The former of these is exactly midway between the extremities of the lake. The inhabitants of the village are considered, according to the prejudices of the country, as idiots; but M. Richart (whose traveling book 1 had with me) says that there is not the least truth in the report.-On a height above, stands a village church in a most romantic position. "We now approached a kind of bay. On the left were fir trees growing out of the rock; and on the right, fine woods, planted at the foot of the mighty mountains which stand above. After turning round * ‹ Oh, sir, if you had seen it before the révolution, it was then in a very ent state.' differ the the rock, which here projects, we perceived Neuhaus (or the new house), near which persons sometimes land, and take a direc: path to Utersee. On the right, close on the lake, a pretty little village, called Leisegal, demanded our attention and on the other side, a cascade falling from a vast eminence and above, a church built in the centre of the rock, which is itself covered with trees. "We arrived at the further extremity of the lake of Thun, a distance of nine English miles, at half past twelve o'clock. We here seemed to be in a spot secluded from the rest of the world; and it was impossible to view the vast features of nature which surrounded us without feeling a kind of involuntary awe. We proceeded on foot, no carriage being to be had at the water's side, to Utersee, a little dirty village built of wood. "We found, on our arrival at this place, that even in this sequestered part of virtuous Switzerland imposition was not unknown; and so great a price was asked for a low cart, with seats suspended on it, drawn by one horse (the only conveyance of which the country admits), that it was three o'clock before our arrangements were finally made. We at last set out, with a good horse, and a fine lad as driver, who walked by the side. The road was wonderfully romantic, wild, and indeed terrific. At first we passed through a fine plain, surrounded with the vast mountains of the country. We then began to ascend up a narrow road, on the side of a rapid torrent. The hills around were well wooded and well inhabited, for cottages were scattered about in abundance. Cows were grazing on the summit of the mountains, in rich fields, the ver dure of which was extremely beautiful. "After traveling in this manner, at the edge of precipices, during the space of two hours, we came in sight of the Youngfrau, or Maiden Mountain (called so because the foot of man has never been able to traverse it), covered with snow; and in another hour reached Lauterbrunen. The village stands in a situation truly romantic. We found here an inn of decent appearance; but having heard that tra velers were sometimes received at the parsonage-house, we sent our servant to the minister's, and requested the favor of accommodations for the night; which, on cendition that we would excuse the homely fare which his larder af forded, was readily and politely granted. We were welcomed to this peaceful mansion with much hospitality by its respectable owner, whose name is Zumelini; by his wife, a well-behaved young woman, who spoke French perfectly well; and by her mother, a respectable and sensible old lady. Tea was instantly served; after which our reverend host proposed walking with me round the neighbourhood. The Stoubbach, one of the most celebrated waterfalls of Switzerland, fronts the windows of this house; but though it rolls from a height of nine hundred feet, it is not a very striking sight at present, the extreme dryness of the season having deprived it of its usual quantity of water. After walking more than an hour, in a rich valley encircled by the sublimest mountains, and washed by the waters which fall from their summit, we approached the Youngfrau; and as I beheld with admiration its lofty white top, my attention was drawn to a fine waterfall, which, descending descending from that vast mountain, rushes with roaring impetuosity into the plain below. I had just time enough to contemplate, this and the adjoining glaciers, when night hid the scene from my view. An individual attempted some time back to rob the Youngfrau of her virgin honors; but his rashness was punished with death, for he was never heard of after the morning when he set out on the expedition. "I returned home with my respectable conductor, much delighted with the scenes I had witnessed, and not a little obliged by the civilities he had shown me. I should doubtless have likewise received much information from his conversation, had I been able to understand him; but, unfortunately, the German, of which I am totally ignorant, was the only modern language which he could speak. After several fruitless attempts at expressing to each other our opinions, we at last remembered that a medium of communication might perhaps be found by talking Latin. This experiment afforded some relief to the embarrassment under which we had hitherto labored; but the dif. ference of pronunciation still placed a considerable difficulty in the way of our conversation. The good man spoke Latin with considerable Auency (for, in foreign education, academical students are taught to speak as well as write the dead languages), while I expressed myself but imperfectly, never having had occasion, excepting in the schools of Oxford, to use that tongue. "We supped with this worthy family on water-gruel (which supplied the place of soup), and on trout caught in the neighbouring streams; to which were added 1 boiled eggs and fried liver. Our drink was the wine of the country; and the repast concluded with a glass of lanelle, a bottle of which was brought out in honor of the English guests, Every thing was given with such good will and cordial hospitality, that it was impossible not to be pleased-though I must confess, that, having traveled all day without eating, I should have considered a more substantial meal as better suited to the keenness of my appetite. Before we left the table, the minister pronounced with a solemn tone a prayer in German, answering, as I suppose, to our grace. We then adjourned to another room, where our landlord entertained us with a domestic concert. The good minister played the violin, and his wife the harpsichord. They were accompanied by the voices of their female servants, two pretty young girls, dressed in the costume of the country, who, being unable to read the notes, kept time by the motion of their fingers. The music, also the composition of our host, was wild and simple and it was with great truth I assured the ladies of the family, who offered many apologies for the poverty of this entertainment, that I preferred it to the finest efforts of studied skill.~ After listening some time to this music, we retired to a very comfortable bedchamber, and slept so soundly that we never heard a violent storm which raged during the night. "This day was passed in a most agreeable manner. After enjoying the novelty and grandeur of the sublime scenery which we had visited in the morning, we experienced an equal pleasure from the society of the good people whose guests we became in the evening: their plain |