Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

official reports of Captains Lewis and Clarke have not yet heen presented to the public; and doubt less, when they do appear, will in every respect be superior to, and will supersede Mr. Gass's journal. In the mean time, however, the book before us is by no means unworthy of notice, deficient as it is, and dry as it will be esteemed by most readers. The author bore a part himself in the expedition, and, as appears from an appended certificate by Captain Lewis, so conducted himself as to merit the "highest confidence and sincere thanks" of his commanders. We shall therefore proceed to give a short abstract of the contents of this volume.

On the 14th of May, 1804, the expedition quitted its port at the mouth of the Wood river, about a mile below the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, and proceeded up the former of these rivers, being embarked on board a batteau and two periagues. The stream being against them, their progress was slow, and occasional delays were also incurred by the necessity of depending for their supply of animal food on the produce of the chase, or the more precarious resource of fishing. Nothing worthy of particular remark occurs till the 2d of September, when they discovered on the bank of the river a fortification or breastwork, evidently constructed by an ancient people, in a state of much higher civilization than that to which the present inhabitants have attained. This work is a mound of earth forming three sides of a parallelogram (the river being the fourth side); the length of which is full 2,500 yards. Buffaloes, elks, deer, and a variety of smaller game abundant, so that no deficiency of provisions was experienced: bears, and wild goats were also occasionally met with, On the 20th of the

were

same month they passed a long chain of clay bluffs, at the foot of which the river runs, and thence acquires that muddiness of stream by which it is characterized.

On the 26th of September an interview took place between the par. ty of discovery and a tribe of the Sioux Indians. When the Indians saw Captain Clarke coming

"They met him with a buffaloe robe, spread it out, and made him get into it, and then eight of them carried him to the council-house. some of them came for Captain Lewis, About an hour after, and he landed; and eight of them carried him to the council-house in the same manner they had carried Captain Clarke. They killed several dogs for our people to feast on, and spent the greatest part of the day in eating and smoking. At night the women assembled, and danced till 11 o'clock; then the officers came on board until the morning. with two chiefs, who continued with us

[ocr errors]

here all day. Capt. Lewis, myself, and Thursday 27th. We remained some of the men, went over to the Indian camp. Their lodges are about eighty in number, and contain about ten persons each; the greater part women' and children. The women were employed in dressing buffaloe skins, for clothing for themselves, and for covering their lodges. They are the most friendly people I ever saw; but will pilfer, if they dirty: the water they make use of, is have an opportunity. They are also very carried in the paunches of the animals. they kill, just as they are emptied, without being cleaned. They gave us dishes of victuals of various kinds; I had never seen any thing like some of these dishes, nor could I tell of what ingredients, or how they were made.

"About 15 days ago, they had a battle with the Mahas, of whom they killed 75 men, and took 25 women prisoners, whom they have now with them. They promised to Capt. Lewis, that they make peace. would send the prisoners back, and

"About 3 o'clock, we went aboard the boat, accompanied with the old chief and his little son. In the evening, Capt.

Clarke and some of the men went over, and the Indians made preparations for a dance. At dark it commenced, Captain Lewis, myself, and some of our party went up to see them perform. Their band of music, or orchestra, was composed of about 12 persons beating on a buffaloe hide, and shaking small bags that make a rattling noise. They had a large fire in the centre of their camp; on one side the women, about 80 in number, formed in a solid column round the fire, with sticks in their bands, and the scalps of the Mahas they had killed tied on them. They kept moving, or jumping round the fire, rising and falling on both feet at once; keeping a continual noise, singing and yelling; In this manner they continued till 1 o'clock at night, when we returned to

the boat with two of the chiefs."

On the 8th of October, after having passed through the territory of the Kees, they arrived in that of the Rickaree Indians, a peaceable, well-disposed, and civilized tribe; who cultivate corn, beans, squashes, and tobacco, and navigate the river in coracles made of wicker-work, covered over by a buffaloe's hide. They are represented as handsomer, more cleanly in their persons, more friendly and industrious than any other tribe with whom communication was held during the whole of the expedition.

Still further up the river dwells the Mandan nation, with the chiefs of which Captains Lewis and Clarke had an interview. Finding them to be amicably disposed, presents of considerable value were distributed among them, and it was resolved to winter in their territories. For this purpose, on the 2d of November, a proper situation was chosen on which a fortified post was established, and huts were built for the accommodation of the party. This station, called Fort Mandan, was about 1600 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and in 47. 21'. On the 16th of November ice was seen floating in the stream, and on

the 6th of the succeeding month the river was completely frozen over.

The winter was spent in hunting, and in cultivating a friendly intercourse with the natives. No occurrence of much importance took place during this period, except the arrival of three traders belonging to the Canadian N. W. Company, in order to enquire the object of the expedition.

Towards the latter end of March the ice began to break up; and on the 7th of April Captains Lewis and Clarke, with 29 men, proceeded on their journey in two periagues and six canoes; the rest of the party returning to the mouth of the Missouri in the boat. On the following day they passed some high bluffs on the south of the river, one of which appeared to have been recently in a state of volcanic eruption, as it was thickly strewn over with pumice stone, and exhaled a strong odour of sulphur. On the 19th they passed another volcanic hill, and on the 26th arrived at the mouth of a large stream called the Yellow-stone river, which joins the Missouri. The latter was deep and rapid, and at the point of junction presented a breadth of 337 yards of water, and 190 of a sandy beach, the latter was shallow, and its breadth was 291 yards of water, and 561 of sand. The distance, including the windings of the river was, from the mouth of the Missouri 1888 miles, and from Fort Mandan 278. By the 27th of May the expedition had ascended the river about 2300 miles, and entered upon a barren, desolate and rocky country, which gives the author an opportunity of making the following observations on the varieties of country that they had hitherto passed through.

"From the mouth of the Missouri to that of the river Patte, a distance of more than six hundred miles, the land is generally of a good quality, with a sufficient quantity of timber; in many places

very rich, and the country pleasant and of the buffaloe roads are at least ten feet

beautiful.

"From the confluence of the river Platte with the Missouri to the Sterile

desert we lately entered, a distance of upwards of fifteen hundred miles, the soil is less rich, and, except in the bottoms, the land of an inferior quality; but may in general be called good secondrate land. The country is rather hilly than level, though not mountainous, rocky or stony. The hills in their unsheltered state are much exposed to be washed by heavy rains. This kind of conntry and soil which has fallen under our observation in our progress up the Missouri, extends, it is underssood, to a great distance on both sides of the river. Along the Missouri and the waters which flow into it, cotton wood and willows are frequent in the bottoms and islands; but the upland is almost entirely without timber, and consists of large prairies or plains, the boundaries of which the eye cannot reach. The grass is generally short on these immense natural pastures, which in the proper seasons are decorated with blossoms and flowers of various colours. The views from the hills are interesting and grand. Wide extended plains with their hills and vales, stretching away in lessening wavy rid ges, until by their distance they fade from the sight; large rivers and streams in their rapid course, winding in various meanders; groves of cotton-wood and willow along the waters intersecting the landscapes in different directions, dividing them into various forms at length ap pearing like dark clouds and sinking in the horizon; these enlivened with the buffaloe, elk, deer, and other animals which in vast numbers feed upon the plains or pursue their prey, are the minent objects, which compose the extensive prospects presented to the view, and strike the attention of the beholder. "The islands in the Missouri are of

pro

various sizes; in general not large, and during high water, mostly overflowed."

"There are Indian paths along the Missouri, and some in other parts of the country. Those along that river do not generally follow its windings, but cut off points of land and pursue a direct course. There are also roads and paths made by the buffalog and other animals; some

wide."

On the 3d of June they arrived at the confluence of two streams, one from the north, of a milky colour, and the other from the south; and not being able to determine which was the true Missouri, they halted, and detached a party up each of the streams to ascertain which was navigable to the greatest distance. Captain Lewis explored the north branch to the distance of about 60 miles, and found it navigable, free from islands, and flowing through a comparatively plain country, well wooded, and abounding in game. Captain Clarke, accompanied by Mr. Gass and four others, explored the southern branch to the height of a little more than 40 miles, through a high barren councovered with show, on the south. try, with a ridge of loay mountains By the 8th of June both parties had returned, and it was resolved to appropriate the name Missouri to the south branch, and to call the other Maria's river, On the following day the large periague and part of the stores and baggage were buried, and the expedition thus disencumbered began, on the 12th, to ascend the southern branch. After having proceeded about 50 miles, they came to an impassable rapid, and learnt by a party that had been sent on to explore, that in the next 15 miles there were five different falls, each of them 40 or 50 feet perpen-` dicular, with very rapid water between them. It was resolved therefore to construct some small wagwith their loading, and thus drag gons, on which to place the canoes them to the nearest part of the river above the falls. This resolution was taken on the 16th of June, and by the 14th of the following month, after much labour was successfully effected. The next day the voyage was resumed and on the 30th of

June, at a distance of 225 miles above the falls, they arrived at the confluence of three streams, in lat. 45° 2′ 53′′, so nearly co-equal, that they determined that the name Missouri should here cease, and that the three rivers should be called Jefferson, Maddison, and Gallatin. Up the former of these they proceeded, till the 17th of August, when the water became so shallow as no longer to be navigable. The canoes were accordingly deposited here, and Captain Clarke, with a party of 12 men and some Indians traced up the stream for a day and a half further, when they arrived at the spring bead of the river, distant from the Missouri about 3120 miles.

[ocr errors]

From the same mountain out of which Jefferson river issues, and at the distance of only a mile, rises one of the branches of the Columbia. The country, however, is so mountainous as to render this stream unnavigable; in consequence of which the party had to make a long and fatiguing journey through a cold and desolate tract, in the course of which they were more than once obliged to kill for food some of the baggage horses that they had procured from the Indians. At length on the 24th of September the different parties of the expedition united on the banks of a river, called by the natives Koos kooskee, a hundred yards broad, that falls into the Columbia. Here they employed themselves till the 6th of October in hunting, and constructing five canoes; and on the following day commenced their voyage down the river. On the 10th of the same month they arrived at the influx of a large stream from the west, called Kimooeenen, distant from their place of embarkation about 53 miles; and a navigation of six days more, during which they advanced 136 miles, brought them to the confluence of the Kooskooskee and Columbia, in lat. 46° 15′ 13". The

breadth of the former river, at the place of junction, is 475 yards, and that of the latter amounts to 860 yards. Hitherto they had found the navigation considerably obstructed by dangerous rapids, and the country through which their route lay was open and almost entirely destitute of trees and game. They passed by many Indian settlements, the inhabitants of which subsist on fish, wild roots, and dogs, the latter of which are domesticated. The change of food from flesh to salmon was prejudicial to the health of the whole party, which caused them to substitute dogs' flesh whereever they could, and they soon found it to be a strong and nourishing diet.

By the 22d of October they had proceeded 149 miles down the CoIumbia (passing in their way several Indian settlements, and through a country, still destitute of wood, at least in the vicinity of the river) and arrived in latitude 45°. 42' 57". at a great rapid, or rather a series of small falls which obliged them to undertake a portage of their canoes and baggage over a distance of about 1200 yards. The next day was occupied in a hazardous navigation of four miles through constant rapids, during which they saw several sea otters swimming about in the water. These animals are attracted hither in considerable numbers, as well as the Indians, on account of the great abundance of fish at these falls., On the following day the rapids still continued very dangerous, so that in one place the canoes were obliged to be unloaded, on account of which delay the whole progress did not exceed five miles. The 26th and 27th were employed in repairing the damages of the canoes and in hunting, the country though mountainous, now beginning again to be woody. On the 31st some more rapids occurred which occasioned

two very fatiguing portages, one of the canoes and baggage for about a mile, and another of the baggage only for two miles and a half, which employed the whole strength of the expedition during two days. At the distance of about eight miles below these last rapids the river opens to the breadth of a mile and continues its course, without any further obstructions, through a country for the most part level and thickly wooded to the sea As they approached the mouth of the river, the channel widened to three and even five miles, and the wind raised such a swell that it was not without difficulty that the canoes loaded as they were, could proceed. In consequence of which fourteen days were employed in a navigation of 176 miles, from the last rapids, and on the 15th of October the expedition arrived safely at the mouth of the Columbia, in latitude 46°. 19'. 17". on the shore of a spacious bay of the sea" at that time more raging than Pacific."

It was resolved to pass the winter here; accordingly a fort was erected in a convenient situation about seven miles from the sea, and a party was detached to the shore for the purpose of making salt. The winter was passed in hunting, and other necessary occupations, and in interviews with the native inhabitants. As a specimen of their mode of life we quote the following pas

sage.

"Thursday 13th.-The morning was fine, and two more hunters went out early. About ten, the hunters who had gone across the bay returned. and had killed two elk and two deer.

"I this day took an account of the number of pairs of mockasons each man in the party had, and found the whole to be 338 pair. This stock was not provided without great labour, as the most of them are made of the skins of elk. Each man has also a sufficient quantity of patch-leather. Some of the men went

out to look for the lost canoe, and killed two elk.

[ocr errors]

Friday 14th. We had a fine morning, and four hunters set out early. I went with a party and brought in the last evening. Two hunters, who had gone out yesterday morning, returned very much fatigued, and had killed nothing but a a goose and which they ate last night. While out to-day, I saw a number of musquitoes flying about. I also saw a great quantity of sheep-sorrel growing in the woods, of a very large size.

meat of the two elk which were killed

raven,

"Saturday 15th.-There was a fine pleasant morning. About noon, our hunters came in, and had killed four elk. A number of the natives came to the fort to-day.

"Sunday 16th.-Last night it became cloudy, and began to rain; and the rain ha continued all day. The Indians stayed about the fort the whole of this day. Yesterday, while I was absent, getting our meat home, one of the hunters killed two vultures, the largest fowls I had ever seen. I never saw any such as these, except on the Columbia river, and

the sea-cost.

"On the 17th, it rained occasionally during the whole of the day. We got a canoe from the natives, for which we gave an officer's uniform coat.

"Tuesday 18th. The weather was much like that of yesterday, and some hail fell in the course of the day. Some of the men are repairing the small canoes, and making preparation to return up the river, as soon as the weather will permit. One of the hunters killed an elk.

"The morning of the 19th was and it continued cloudy through the stormy, some hard showers of hail fell,

day.

"Thursday 20th.-The whole of this day was wet and disagreeable. We intended to have set out to-day on our return, but the weather was too bad. I made a calculation of the number of elk and deer killed by the party from the 1st of December 1805, to the 20th of March 1806, which gave 131 elk, and 20 deer. There were a few smaller quadrupeds killed, such as 'otter and beaver, and one racoon. The meat of some of the elk was not brought to the fort,

"Friday 21st.We had a cloudy wet

« AnteriorContinuar »