will scarcely move out of the way of an oar. Even the most prejudiced Frank will admit, while he scoffs at this ultra humane feeling, that the storks are capable of distinguishing the Turk from the Greek or Jew; for they unhesitatingly build their nests upon the houses of the former, while they cautiously avoid approaching the dwellings of the latter.

But we have wandered from the Hippodrome. Under the Greek emperors it was devoted to athletic sports and exercises; under the French monarchy, to jousts, and tilts, and tournaments; and in the hands of the Turks to the exercise of the short spear or jeered. Alas for the progress of reform the Hippodrome is now deserted, and the only remnant of Ottoman chivalry we saw, was a ragged lad kicking and whipping a sorry nag over the parched and solitary arena.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Les Eaux Douces-Engineer Barracks-Eyoub-Ancient Galleys--Bricks -Mounting Guard-Description of a Turkish Soldier-Power of the Sultan-Divan-The Officers composing it--Excursion to the Black SeaCyanea or Symplegades.

We took a boat this morning in order to explore the upper part of the Golden Horn. The river Lycus, which is formed by the united streams of the Cydaris and Barbyses, runs through a lovely valley, called by the Turks Kiat Hannay, on account of a paper manufactory which once existed there. The French residents term it la vallée des eaux douces, which the English Ramsbottoms of Pera have traduced into the valley of sweet waters. We passed, on our right, the Koomberadjee Kooshlahsin, or the engineer barracks, and, on our left, the mosque of Eyoub, or Job, a disciple of the prophet, and whose bones were miraculously found here, and who is revered as the patron of Constantinople. It is the only mosque which strangers are not permitted to enter. The walls are said to be encrusted with the rarest marbles, and the floor covered with the richest carpets. There is preserved here a piece of striped brown and white marble, bearing the print of the prophet's foot. The tomb of the saint is surrounded by a balustrade of silver, and near it a well of miraculous water, which is drawn up in silver buckets, and presented to the faithful in vases of the same metal. In this mosque is preserved the sacred banner of the prophet, which we are informed is only unfurled on great occasions. On the distant heights above are the infantry barracks of the Ramuschiflek, where the sultan took up his residence during the recent war with Russia.

As we proceeded up the harbour the water became very shallow, and a number of red painted posts served to mark out the channel. We passed a long low building, which was said to contain many worn-out state barges. Several, of a prodigious size, were rotting outside. One, in particular, must have been at least of 100 tons burthen, and was constructed with forty ports. It is, perhaps, the last representative of the ancient row-galleys in existence, and, according to the description given by Meibomius, is about the size of the ancient Roman trireme. The land on each side now became a level marsh, while the barren treeless hills beyond were covered with Jewish and Armenian cemeteries. As we proceeded, the river Lycus dwindled to a petty creek, tastefully fringed along its banks with picturesque brickyards. These were not exactly the poetical images which the pompous descriptions of travellers had led us to anticipate, and we accordingly endeavoured to pick up a little information from our caïkgee, by asking a few homely questions respecting the domestic manufacThe bricks are much smaller than ours, and in fact resemble in shape and size small flat tiles. They sell at from $3 87 to $4 50 per thousand. In our farther progress up the stream the marshes disappeared, the valley became narrower, and various clumps of majestic trees gave a refreshing coolness and shade to this secluded spot, which is pent up between barren hills. A summer-house of the sultan, and the building which gives its name to the valley, were the only objects worthy attention, and we saw nothing to warrant the ecstacies of tourists, who have drawn largely upon their imaginations in their descriptions of this place. Their raptures would have been far better bestowed upon Hooncair iscalessee, Buyukdery, and a dozen other delightful valleys which steal up from both shores of the Bosphorus.

tures.

At a small wooden building, near the water's edge, where we stopped to take pipes and coffee, we witnessed a scene which, to veterans like ourselves in the New-York militia,

was exceedingly diverting. Two soldiers were stationed on guard at this spot, and, as their duty was not particularly burdensome, they were quickly kicking their heels over the bank, and endeavouring to inveigle some small fish (smaris), about the size of our killifish, out of the water. They could not, however, be accused of deserting their post, for their muskets were stuck up in the grass some two or three hundred yards off, doing duty for their masters. As the reports are very general that discontents exist among the soldiers, we requested our guide to sound these amateur fishermen on this subject. They acknowledged that they were dissatisfied, but not on account of their pay, which they considered handsome enough-whenever they were so lucky as to obtain it. But what they did grumble at, was to be compelled to mount guard with no other provision than their ration of bread, and they were then endeavouring to supply the deficiency by fishing. Their tour of duty, however, they said, would expire in a few days, and upon their return to barracks they would be perfectly happy, for they would then receive their full ration both of bread and meat. These soldiers must have been luxurious dogs, to complain about the want of meat, for the labouring class, whose toil would seem to require a very substantial fare, are satisfied with one meal a day, consisting of a small loaf of bread, and a piece of watermelon, or a few black and bitter olives. Upon examining the muskets of these soldiers, which they permitted us to do freely, we found them to be of Turkish manufacture. There was little to criticise, except that the stock of one musket was broken directly across, and held together by the extemporary aid of a piece of rope, while the other was perfect in every respect, except that it wanted a trigger. Neither had flints, but, as the country is now in a state of profound repose and peace, these would be quite superfluous.

One of the greatest difficulties to be overcome under the new army regulations, was to conquer the aversion of

the soldiery to mounting guard. Nothing appeared to them more ridiculous than to be compelled to walk backwards and forwards for several hours with a gun on their shoulders, just like the restless Franks; and what to them seemed to be the climax of absurdity, was, to keep up the same farce during the night. In the good old times of the Janizaries, such puerilities as mounting guard were never dreamed of. Indeed, guards could then have been of no earthly use, for all the plunderings and murders were monopolized by those cut-throats themselves. The dress of the modern Turkish soldier has partaken of the general change which has occurred within the last ten years, and whatever it may have lost in picturesque effect, it has certainly gained in effectiveness for military duty. Instead of loose slipshod slippers, he now wears stout serviceable shoes, securely fastened by leather strings. The huge balloon chashkeers, which impeded his every movement, have given place to woollen trowsers, still rather ample about the nether man, but not so large as to prevent him from making a rapid charge upon the enemy, or from run

ning away. The glittering and flowing jubbee and bayneesh are well exchanged for a smart tight-bodied blue jacket, closely hooked in front, and allowing perfect freedom to the limbs; while the turban, infinitely varied in

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