laughable. Poles and oars were put in requisition, but, as every one pushed in the direction he pleased, we had a pleasing illustration of the doctrine of oppository forces, and the boat of course remained in the same spot. Matters. were, however, getting too serious to remain long in this situation. We struck a light, unfolded a chart of the bay, and from the bearings of the Brothers, a conspicuous landmark, we were enabled, by a small compass, to ascertain our actual position. This we explained to old Ali, who, ever since we grounded had kept hold of the tiller, and to all our questions gave only sulky replies. The truth was, he knew no more than the man in the moon where he was, and endeavoured to conceal his ignorance under a torrent of surly Inshallahs and Mashallahs. This was not to be borne, the men were willing to be directed by us if we would only give the word, and I accordingly stepped forward, and seizing an oar myself, directed the crew to push in the same manner. While we thus got fairly afloat, my companion stepped aft, and tumbling old Ali head over heels from the helm, coolly took his place. I expected to witness some outrageous exhibition of passion on the part of our old commander, but was agreeably disappointed when I saw him squat down in the bottom of the boat, and composedly commence lighting his pipe. He was no doubt meditating upon the impudence of his Yankee passengers.

By keeping a bright look-out we were enabled to continue our course. At one o'clock we passed the castle, a low insignificant work mounting 15 or 20 guns, apparently more for show than use; and at three in the morning we made fast to the custom-house wharf of Smyrna, some. what fatigued, but, on the whole, much gratified with our little voyage.

CHAPTER L.

Carnival-Concert-Modern Greek Language-Cassino Balls-Waltzing Private Theatricals-Mr. Arundel's Collection-Mr. Borel the Antiquarian-Counterfeit Coins-Ride to the Khammans-Public Slaughterhouse-Hot Springs-Explanation of certain Phenomena connected with these Springs-Turkish Politeness-Region about the Springs.

THE carnival at Smyrna is a season of gayety in which all sects appear to unite with equal animation. Concerts, balls, and private theatricals, succeed each other with stunning rapidity; and the French hospitality, and warmhearted attentions of the Smyrniots, render it impossible, even if one's wishes were adverse, to avoid participating in the festivities and amusements of the season. The και του xpove, or happy new-year, is heard from every lip, and the gayly-dressed crowds are hurrying through their rounds of visits, or hastening to some scene of amusement, and even the taciturn Turk seems to catch a portion of the general animation.

A concert, partly professional and partly got up by amateurs, was numerously attended this evening by the fashion of Smyrna. The concert was held in a large magazine, which has been neatly fitted up for the exhibition of private theatricals during the winter season. It is capable of containing 300 persons, and over the stage is inscribed in large characters the deprecating motto, "Si desunt vires, tamen est laudanda voluntas." The music was well selected, and my ears were greeted with strains which had formerly delighted them on the banks of the Hudson, the Elbe, the Seine, and Tagus. Of the execution it may be said that it was respectable, and the audience particularly indulgent.

As a local peculiarity I noticed that the front seats were

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secured for the genï loci, the consuls of the place and their respective families, and to them alone were distributed programmes of the entertaintment. To judge from this assembly, I should certainly award the palm of beauty to the ladies of Smyrna. There were several English and American ladies present, but they had so entirely adopted the manner, costume, and even language of the country, that it was almost impossible to distinguish them from their fair Smyrniot neighbours. I recollect holding a long and animated conversation with a young lady, who appeared to speak several languages with equal fluency with the exception of English, of which she candidly avowed herself to be ignorant, although she was the daughter of English parents. It sounds odd to an American to be formally introduced to a Mrs. Johnson, or Thomson, or Davis, or to a Miss Smith, or Black, or Wilson, and to find that they cannot speak a word of English. Greek is the language used in most families, and is the first language a child learns. It does not fall agreeably upon a foreign ear, owing to the very high pitch of ordinary conversation. When read with emphasis and due discretion by an educated lady, or as I have heard it spoken by the lovely Heleuitza F.; it is full of sweet and musical sounds, and hardly to be surpassed by that softest of all European languages the German. It certainly is more euphonous than colloquial Italian. The performance closed at the goodly hour of ten, and as carriages are unknown here, the company picked their way home through the dark and dismal streets, preceded by servants bearing lanterns.

The cassino balls, to which I was invited during my residence here, were well got up and brilliantly attended There was much variety in the dancing, but the graceful waltz was the deserved favourite: indeed, it was amusing to notice that when they commenced with an old-fashioned English country dance, or a quadrille, in the course of a few minutes every one was waltzing away independently

with their partners. I regretted to observe that the cardrooms were crowded with gentlemen, who, if they did not actually gamble, played much higher than gentlemen should permit themselves to do. Indeed, this vice prevails unfortunately to too great an extent among the European residents at Smyrna.

We had the honour of an invitation to private theatricals at the house of the French consul. The performances were Marriage de Raison et Partie Revanche; and the best praise I can award them is, that they did it almost as well as professional actors. The fair hostess (a daughter of the celebrated Didot) attracted merited applause; and his excellency the consul himself enacted the part of a pere noble with much talent. Sunday evenings are considered in Smyrna as most appropriate for these and similar entertainments.

The state of the weather and other causes have prevented me from putting in execution my intention of visiting Ephesus and Magnesia. This I the more regret, as I was to have been accompanied in the excursion by Mr. Brewer and Mr. Arundel. The latter gentleman had already made the tour of the seven churches, and was desirous of verifying some statements which have been published since the appearance of his "history." He has a small but exceedingly valuable collection of antiques, collected by himself in this country, which may almost be considered as the birthplace of Christianity. In his collection, which he politely permitted me to examine, I remarked a bronze candlestick, of very ancient workmanship, with seven branches, which, it will be recollected, is selected by the divine as typical of the seven churches of Asia. Another scriptural antiquity interested me exceedingly. It is a plain box, neatly turned out of plaster of Paris, or alabaster, and about the size of a shaving-box, with a cover of the same material. It was dug out of some ruins in Ephesus, if I remember aright, and when first in the possession of Mr.

Arundel, gave out an agreeable perfume. Is not Is not one forcibly reminded of "the alabaster box of precious ointment" which Mary used to anoint the feet of our Saviour. The collection of minerals belonging to Mr. Arundel is also extensively interesting, and characteristic of the region in which they have been collected.

The stranger in Smyrna will derive much information and pleasure from an acquaintance with Mr. Borel, who is well known to all the archaeologists of Europe. He has the reputation of being profoundly versed in numismatics, and his library relating to this subject is perhaps more extensive and complete than any similar private collection in the world. He has recently disposed of one of his collections for $30,000, and prosecutes his investigations with untiring zeal. I was indebted to Mr. B. for several hints on the means of detecting a genuine antique from a counterfeit, but the fear of being imposed upon has hitherto prevented me from making any collection beyond Turkish aspers, paras, and piasters. The name of an individual was mentioned who had obtained at Constantinople large sums of money by selling imitations of the rarest and most valuable coins to travellers. He was detected, and obliged to quit the country. Mr. B. has invented a machine, with which he is enabled to copy the impression of a coin or medal, and transfer it with the greatest possible exactness to paper.

One of the many pleasant rides about Smyrna led me along the shores of the bay towards Vourla. Accompanied by Mr. Brewer I passed out of the city by the customhouse and the Tunisian consulate, which is distinguished by its large red flag with the sword in the centre. This, in contra-distinction to the other consulates, is always kept unfurled to the breeze. After passing the barracks, the road lies near the seaside, and forms a delightful promenade, which might at a small expense be converted into an excel