Liman; 20. Anadol phaneraki (lighthouse). On the European side, after leaving Constantinople, we pass, 1. Galata; 2. Tophannah; 3. Foondooklee; 4. Kabatash; 5. Dolmabatchi; 6. Beshiktash; 7. Kooloodjaly; 8. Cherajoon yalisy; 9. Orta Keui; 10. Deftardar Boornoo; 11. Kooroochesmeh; 12. Arnoot Keui; 13. Bebek; 14. Kaiyalah (cemetery); 15. Roomeli Hissar; 16. Sheytan Akoonteseh (Devil's Current); 17. Balta Liman; 18. Boyagi Keui; 19. Ameergan Ogloo; 20. Tokmah Boornoo; 21. Isthenia; 22. Selvi Boornoo; 23. Yeni Keui; 24. Kalender; 25. Therapia; 26. Buyukdery; 27. Sarrayah; 28. Yeni Mahalli; 29. Roomeli Kavak; 30. Buyuk Liman; 31. Keribehek; 32. Roomeli Phaneraki, or lighthouse.

The waters were covered by myriads of seafowl, which, as they are undisturbed by the Turks, exhibited no signs of fear on our approach. Indeed, they were so entirely free from alarm, that they would merely move out of the reach of the oars, without rising from the water. Considerations of policy have undoubtedly had their influence in preventing these birds from being disturbed, for they perform a useful part as scavengers, in removing the animal and vegetable. matter which must necessarily be daily discharged from a large city. I have, however, already had opportunities of witnessing the kindness universally manifested by the Turks towards the brute creation. It is not an uncommon thing to see open boats in the Golden Horn loaded with grain, and literally covered with flocks of ringdoves feeding undisturbed. Besides these water-birds, there are others, which are constantly on the wing, and hence termed by the Turks Yengwan, which the Franks have translated into "ames damnés," in allusion to their perpetual restlessness.*

In some parts of the channel the current runs with so much rapidity, that we were obliged to approach the shore, which is here lined by a continuous quay, and accept the

* A species of Podiceps.

assistance of persons who are in readiness to tow the boats along. This naturally suggested an explanation of the name Bosphorus, which has frequently exercised the critical acumen of etymologists.* I had previously noticed oxen and other cattle employed to tow small vessels around the point against the stream, and this is a more probable origin of the word than the usual explanation, which purports that oxen were transported across the stream. Some idea may be formed of the activity of the caïkgees or boatmen, from the fact that although they had to contend against a fourknot current, and in some places even more, yet we accomplished the fourteen miles in very little more than three hours.

Buyukdery is a European colony. It lies very prettily along the borders of a large bay formed by one of the sinuosities of the Bosphorus. It looks out upon the Black Sea, from whence it is six miles distant, and from the prevailing style of architecture, it might readily be taken for an Italian marine villa. It is inhabited chiefly by foreign ministers, and the various bobs to the tail of the diplomatic kite in the shape of jeunes de langues, dragomen, secretaries, aide interprétes, &c. &c. Since the fire at Pera, the ministers have made this their permanent residence; and the same formality, the same insipidity, and the same dull round of etiquette, varied by ombres chinoises and écarté, which formerly characterized Pera, is said to have been transplanted to Buyukdery. The occupations of its inhabitants have been concisely described by a lively French writer. "Souvent on s'observe ou plutôt on s'épie. Après

* "It was called Bosphorus, for that oxen were accustomed to swim from one side to the other, or, as the poets will have it, from the passage of the metamorphosed Io."-Sandys. According to Pliny (lib. iv.) bubus meabili transitu, unde nomen. "Oxen can easily swim across, whence the name." See also the commentators upon Apollonius Rhodius, and Hesychius in voce πορευσαί.

s'être mutuellement fatigué d'intrigues, de delations, on s'isole, on se renferme."

We succeeded in obtaining lodgings; and whatever may have been the minor vexations or inconveniences which we suffered in our new abode, they were certainly mitigated in the feeling that we were actually living in a palace. I have undoubtedly fared better in a German posthouse, a French auberge, or an English tavern, but then these were very common, everyday affairs, whereas a palace, to an American ear at least, conveys the idea of something very magnificent and etherial. Our palace is delightfully situated on the water's edge, and from the terrace we may amuse ourselves with angling. The large court is filled with orange, lemon, and rose trees, and that universal favourite of the Turk, the oleander, which here grows to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, and bears exposure to the open air during the whole winter. Connected with this is a garden of about ten acres, beautifully laid out in walks shaded by hornbeam and myrtles, the whole forming a succession of terraces, from the uppermost of which we look over our palace and enjoy a superb view of the Bosphorus. In the evening the bushes and groves resound with the notes of the nightingale, which gives a poetic character to the scene. After all, however, the merits of the nightingale are much overrated, and not worthy of being mentioned in the same day with our mocking-bird. Its notes consist of a low twitter, which interests one merely because it is heard in the evening, when the rest of animated nature is hushed in repose. Even then it is not half so effective as the shrill scream of our night-hawk as he careers high in the air, or the phantom-like, unearthly cry of our whippoorwill.* The palace is a large and lofty

Many attempts have been made to introduce the nightingale into the United States, but hitherto with little success, on account of the difficulty of supporting them on the passage. The following was communicated to me by a foreign minister at Constantinople, as having been successfully used on several long voyages :—

building, built indeed of wood, but containing within spacious halls paved with marble, and a magnificent staircase leading to a lofty reception-room. Exteriorly it looks like a huge pile of black boards, but within every thing bears witness to the taste and magnificence of its former owners. The gardens, too, which I have already alluded to, show traces of former splendour in the shape of marble fountains, &c., which are now nearly obliterated. The history of this palace is one of the many episodes in the bloody annals of the Greek revolution. Its proprietor was a Greek prince, who was decapitated during that revolution, and whose estates were confiscated. His children fled to Russia, where they were protected and supported by that government. On the return of peace, two of the daughters came to Constantinople, and presented a petition to the sultan for the restoration of this property. This petition was presented in person to the sultan on his way to the mosque, and was immediately granted. It is now occupied as a lodging-house by several families, and offers a fair sample of a congress from all parts of the globe. We have, for example, representatives of the following nations and tribes: American, Irish, Maltese, French, German, Hungarian, Greek, Armenian, Turk, Russian, and Circassian; and sixteen languages and dialects are daily spoken, to wit: English, Hebrew, Greek, Armenian, Turkish, Persian, Russian, Arabic, Sclavonic, German, Illyric, French, Italian, Latin, Maltese, Hungarian, Portuguese, and Spanish. Among our fellow-lodgers our curiosity has been much excited by

Take a slice of beef, two pounds; pease and sweet almonds, each one pound; saffron in powder, a dram and a half; twelve fresh eggs. Pound, sift, and grind the pease. Peel the almonds, after soaking in warm water, and then pound them fine. Infuse the saffron one hour in a glass of boiling water. Mix the whole, and make small round balls, which are to be baked in an oven or before a fire. When well done, they should have the consistency of biscuits. They are to be well crumbled before giving them to the bird.

a Circassian lady, the widow of a Russian officer. She has already reached that period of life quaintly termed by the French as entre deux ages, and when I state that to regular features she added a brilliant complexion, my readers will understand that she was handsome, although not in the very eminent degree which we have been accustomed to attribute to the Circassian fair. Scores of handsomer women might easily be selected from any village in our own country, although possibly they might not rival our Circassian acquaintance in gracefulness or ease of

manner.

CHAPTER X.

Foondooksoo-A Russian Attaché-A Turkish Concert-The celebrated Plane-tree-Crusaders-Fishing on the Bosphorus-Sword-fish and Tunny-Making Kafe-Agiasma, or Holy Fountain-Turks adopt many Greek Superstitions—Therapeia-Ypsilanti-Sir Henry Willock.

OUR walks lead us frequently to a charming spot about two miles from the village. It is called Foondooksoo, or filbert-water, from the number of filbert-trees which surround a marble reservoir filled with water by conduits from the neighbouring hills. Passing through the village of Sari Yeri which adjoins Buyukdery, our road lay through an ancient Turkish burying-ground. Foondook soo is one of those numerous delicious retreats so common in Turkey which owe their origin to Mussulman piety. A pleasant, retired spot is selected, in most cases looking out upon some lovely scene, although this is not always attended to. A large tank or reservoir is formed, and its borders planted with trees and flowering shrubs; a small wooden box is erected for the accommodation of a vender of coffee, who