"Where look the loftiest Cordilleras down
From summits hoary with eternal snow
On Montezuma's venerable town

And storied vale, and Lake of Mexico;
These thoughts the shade of melancholy throw
On all that else were fair, and gay, and grand
As nature in her glory can bestow.

For never yet, though liberal her hand,

So variously hath she adorned, enriched one land.

"What boots it that from where the level deep

Basks in the tropic sun's o'erpow'ring light
To where yon mountains lift their wintry steep,
All climes, all seasons in one land unite ?
What boots it that her buried caves are bright
With wealth untold of gold or silver ore?
While checked by anarchy's perpetual blight

Industry trembles 'mid her hard-earned store,
While rapine riots near in riches stained with gore

"O sage regenerators of mankind!

Patriots of nimble tongue and systems crude !
How many regal tyrannies combined,

So many fields of massacre have strewed
As you, and your attendant cut-throat brood?
Man works no miracles; long toil, long thought,
Joined to experience, may achieve much good,

But to create new systems out of nought,
Is fit for Him alone, the universe who wrought.

"But what hath such an hour of such a day

To do with human crimes, or earthly gloom?
Far wiser to enjoy while yet we may,

The mock-bird's song, the orange flower's perfume,
The freshness that the sparkling fountain showers.
Let nations reach their glory or their doom,
Spring will return to dress yon orange bowers,
And flowers will still bloom on, and bards will sing of
flowers."

INDEPENDENCE CELEBRATED.

371

21st. In pursuance of the last mentioned advice, we have been breakfasting to-day at Tacubaya, with the Minister and his family, and enjoying ourselves there in Madame —'s garden. We have also just returned from the Marquesa de 's, where we had a pleasant evening, and met General Paredes, whom I like very much; a real soldier, thin, plain, blunt, and all hacked with wounds. 23d.- C- -n has been dining at the Minister's, where he met all the great actors in the present drama, and had an agreeable party. We are now thinking of making our escape from this hotel, and of taking a horseback journey into Michoacan, which shall occupy a month or six weeks. Meantime I am visiting, with the Señorita every hospital, jail, college and madhouse in Mexico!

26th.-To-day they are celebrating their independence. All the bells in all the churches, beginning with the cathedral, are pealing — cannon firing

rockets rushing up into the air Santa Anna in the Alameda, speechifying — troops galloping- little boys running-Te Deum chanting-crowds of men and women jostling each other the streets covered with carriages, the balconies covered with people the Paséo expected to be crowded. I have escaped to a quiet room, where I am trying to find time to make up my letters before the packet goes. I conclude this just as the Dictator, with his brilliant staff, has driven off to Tacubaya.

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH.

Cuna-Old woman

Opera - Santa Anna and his suite - His appearance - Belisario - Solitary "viva!". Brilliant house - Military Dictatorship San Juan de Dios - Hospital de Jesus and baby Different apartments - Acordada - Junta - Female prisoners - Chief crime- Travaux forcés — Children — Male prisoners - Forçats — Soldiers gambling — Chapel — Confessional Insane hospital-Frenchmen - Different kinds of insanity Kitchen - Dinner - Insane monk "Black chamber" Soldiers College Santa Anna's leg-Projects — All Saints - Señora P.

—a— Leave-takings.

4th November.

A GREAT funcion was given in the Opera in honor of His Excellency. The theatre was most brilliantly illuminated with wax lights. Two principal boxes were thrown into one for the President and his suite, and lined with crimson and gold, with draperies of the same. The staircase leading to the second tier where this box was, was lighted by and lined all the way up with rows of footmen in crimson and gold livery. A crowd of gentlemen stood waiting in the lobby for the arrival of the hero of the fête. He came at last in regal state, carriages and outriders at full gallop; himself, staff and suite, in splendid uniform. As he entered, Señor Roca presented him with a Libretto of the Opera, bound in red and gold. We met the great man en face, and he stopped, and

gave us a cordial recognition. Two years have made little change in him in appearance. He retains the same interesting, resigned and rather melancholy expression; the same quiet voice, and grave but agreeable manner; and, surrounded by pompous officers, he alone looked quiet, gentlemanly and high bred. The theatre was crowded to suffocation; boxes, pit and galleries. There was no applause as he entered. One solitary voice in the pit said "Viva Santa Anna!" but it seemed checked by a slight movement of disapprobation, scarcely amounting to a murmur. The opera was Belisarius, considered à propos to the occasion, and was really beautifully montée; the dresses new and superb-the decorations handsome. They brought in real horses, and Belisarius entered in a triumphal chariot, drawn by white steeds; but for this the stage is infinitely too small, and the horses plunged and pranced so desperately, that Belisarius wisely jumped out and finished his aria on foot. The two prima donnas acted together the wife and daughter of the hero - both about the same age, and dressed very well. But the Castellan's voice is not suited to the opera, and the music, beautiful as it is, was the least effective part of the affair. The generals, in their scarlet and gold uniforms, sat like peacocks surrounding Santa Anna, who looked modest and retiring, and as if quite unaccustomed to the public gaze! The boxes were very brilliant all the diamonds taken out for the occasion. His Excellency is by no means indifferent to beauty tout au contraire; yet I dare to say his thoughts were this night of things more warlike and less fair.

274

SAN JUAN DE DIOS.

Let all this end as it may, let them give everything whatever name is most popular, the government is now a military dictatorship. Señor

calls this revolution "the apotheosis of egotism transformed into virtue ;" and it must be confessed, that in most of the actors, it has been a mere calculation of personal interests.

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10th. We went, some days ago, with our friends from San Xavier, to visit the Hospital of San Juan de Dios, at San Cosmé. We found that, being at present under repair, it has but two occupants, old women who keep each other melancholy company. The building is very spacious and handsome; erected, of course, during Spanish dominion, and extremely clean - an observation worthy of note, when it occurs in Mexican public buildings. There is a large hall, divided by square pillars, with a light and cheerful aspect, where the patients sleep; and a separate apartment for women. The rooms are all so clean, airy, and cheerful, that one forgets it is an hospital. In this respect, the style of building here is superior to all others, with large, airy court-yards and fountains, long galleries and immense apartments, with every window open. There is no part of Europe where, all the year round, invalids can enjoy such advantages; but, also, there are few parts of Europe where the climate would permit them to do so.

The following day we visited another hospital; that known as the Hospital de Jesus-hallowed ground; for here the mortal remains of Cortes were deposited. And, though rescued from desecration