express from Chariton to the Council Bluffs, who was to accompany us.

May, 17.-We crossed Grand River, which is 175 yards wide, and which empties into the Missouri from the North West. We rode about 10 miles through the rich bottom of the Missouri and Grand River, where we saw thousands of acres of land, on which the timber had been principally killed by fire within the last year, and thousands of acres which had, within a few years, been converted into a prairie by the same cause. We crossed a creek, which was very difficult on account of the mud and quicksand, and then entered a rolling prairie, skirted, and in some places nearly intersected by timber. The bottom of Grand river was on our right, and distant from one to three miles. Experienced a heavy shower during the night.

May 18.-About 9 o'clock, we entered the bottom of Grand River, and came to a creek about 40 yards wide, and very high. We swam our horses across, then swain ourselves, and rafted over our bag gage. About one o'clock, we arrived at the west fork of Grand River, which is about 75 yards wide, and fordable most of the year, but had risen at least 15 feet within the last 24 hours, and was filled with flood wood. There we found a canoe which had been commenced and abandoned about a year before. We undertook to finish the canoe, and by 4 o'clock launched it, and began to carry over our horses, which landed safe, after struggling long in the mud on the opposite bank. About 50 rods from the main stream there was a slough, across which we directed a soldier and a black man to drive the horses, as we had landed our baggage below the mouth of it. The servant belonging to Major O'Fallon, in imprudently attempting to ride one of the horses through the slough, was unfortunately drowned. No person that could swim was present, until he was sinking to rise no more.

May 19.-Spent the morning in examining the creek to find the body of the drowned man, but without effect. We set out on our journey about 12 o'clock, and continued for about twelve miles VOL. IV.

through the bottom of Grand River.Found two creeks, which our horses swam, and over which we felled trees, on which we carried our baggage. The bottom is partly prairie, and partly timbered, but generally wet, and very rich. The soil of the upland is of an excellent quality, and its surface gently rolling. Quarries of lime stone are to be seen in many places, and the country appears to be well watered.

May 20.-Crossed several large creeks, which had fallen so much that they could be forded. We again crossed, at evening, the West fork of Grand River, called here the Turkey fork. It is about 50 yards wide, and very rapid. The country becomes more broken, and the hills more abrupt. On our right, for a great distance, could be seen a finely timbered country lying on Grand River. Experienced a heavy rain during the night.

May 21.-Crossed several large creeks which were very high, and which we were obliged to swim. We encamped on the banks of the Little Platt, which empties into the Missouri a few miles above Fort Osage. The land is generally rolling, with a rich soil, and timbered on the water courses, and in some places for miles on the highlands; but the timber is principally small. Thousands of acres of timber, near our road this day, have been destroyed by fire within two or three years, and about the same quantity growing up in other places. No stone or rocks were seen.

May 22.-We swam several creeks, and in attempting to ford one which was high, my horse got entangled in some logs in the bottom, and threw both myself and my baggage into the water. We passed to-day but little timber, even on the water courses. Heavy rain during the night.

May 23.-Rode through a most beautiful country, of a rich soil, but entirely destitute of timber, except in some places on the water course. When on the high land, as far as the eye could extend in all directions, there was not even a bush to be seen, and the country resembled a vast plain. We had to swim two creeks in the course of the day.

7

May 24.-This morning, soon after we commenced our journey, a heavy rain commenced, with thunder and lightning, and a heavy wind from the North, which continued through the day. At times the snow and hail were severe.

May 25.-Proceeded on our journey. saw many elk, wolves, and, deer, and swam two creeks. The country becomes more rolling, and the hills more abrupt, but continues destitute of timber.

Arrival at Council Bluffs.

Subbath, May 26.-This day we arrived at the Council Bluffs, much fatigued with our journey.

May 27.-Find myself still much wearied. I have great cause for thankfulness, that the most high God hath preserved my life and health through so many dangers. The whole distance from this place to the ferry on Grand River is 237 miles. The course is East 390 S. for the distance of 152 miles, then E. 550 S. to the

mouth of Grand River.

The Fort is situated in Lat. 42° 31' N. on the Bluffs, about 140 feet above the river. From the fort you have an extensive view of the river for many miles above and below. A second bluff appears on the West, at the distance of about half a mile, between which and the fort there is a most beautiful level, of a rich soil, extending about three miles North and South. The interval on the Missouri opposite the Council Bluffs, is about five miles wide, and continues about the same width for many miles below; but as you ascend the river, the vale widens for about ten miles, when it is about 12 miles wide. There are many lakes and ponds, which contain, during the summer, an abundant supply of wild fowl and fish. Near the garrison there is about 500 acres of land under cultivation, and worked by the soldiers. Heavy rains fall almost every day, and the low land on the streams through the whole country is inundated. Spent the week in exploring the country in the vicinity of the garrison, and in collecting information concerning the Indians. Those who were at Washington last winter, returned in health, much

pleased with their journey. On Saturday I was informed that the presents for the Indians would not arrive before the 25th of June.

Sabbath, June 2.-Preached to-day in the garrison.

Visit to the Trading House.

June 3.-Rode to the trading house of the Missouri Fur Company, which is situated on the Missouri, about 4 miles below the garrison by land, and about 10 by water. Here I learned that the Indian tribes in this vicinity were much in want of provisions, in consequence of their not finding any buffaloe during the winter; and that several lodges of the Seux Nation had perished with hunger. I also learned that the Indians, unless

they should hear of the arrival of their presents before the 20th of the month, would leave their villages for their summer hunt, and not return until the 1st of September. On my return to the fort I consulted with the Indian agent, and concluded to set out immediately to visit the Indians at their villages.

Unsuccessful attempt to visit the Indian Villages.

June 5.-Having made arragements for the journey, I set out with my interpreter, and two men, furnished me by the politeness of Col. Leavensworth, who ed 12 miles; but finding the valley overcommands at the garrison. We proceedflowed and impassable, we returned to the garrison. The streams of water are much higher than has ever been known in this country.

Remarks on the climate.

June 6.-Heavy rains still continue. I have learned, from good authority, and from men who have been long acquainted with the country, that in this climate, the weather, in March, April, and the first part of May, is invariably dry. Very little rain falls, and the streams are only swelled at times by the melting of the snow. About the middle of May, the rains commence gently, and in a few days become very violent. They seldom, however, continue more than 12 hours before they are succeeded by about twenty-four of fair weather. This alternation, in

Saviour has died to redeem lost sinners. I held conversation with some of them; but found them very ignorant of every thing of a moral or religious nature. The chiefs were employed in consultation on the subjects I had proposed. I visited their burying ground, about eighty rods distant. It is situated on the top of a bluff, about 140 feet above the level of their village. The ascent, however, is gentle. Here I saw several of the tribe collected, and mourning over the graves of their departed relatives. They pulled their hair, rent their clothes, beat their breasts, and howled in imitation of different kinds of wild beasts. At times, they made frantic gestures, and sang mournful songs. Their manner of burying is various, according to the directions given by the person before his death. In some instances, a grave is dug three feet deep, and the corpse placed in it, and covered with earth in the usual form among white people. Others are buried in a sitting posture, partly in the earth, and partly above, with a mound three or four feet high raised over the corpse. Some are laid on a platform, made by driving four forked sticks into the earth, laying thereon two poles, which reach from the head to the foot, crossing these with shorter poles, and covering them with grass or leaves. This platform is raised from four inches to a foot high. At the head and foot, a forked stick is driven down, and a ridge pole laid in the forks. Against this, on all sides, sticks and barks are placed, and the whole covered with earth, generally clods about two feet thick. Others are laid on the earth, and a mound, seven feet high, and in the form of a cone, raised over them. No coffins are used; but when a grave is dug, flat stones or split sticks are placed beneath, on the sides, and above the corpse. The property of the deceased is disposed of according to his directions in his life-time. Sometimes a part, or all, is buried with him. At other times, it is given away to relatives and friends who come to mourn over the grave. All who come to mourn, if they are not near relatives, expect pay in presents. The graves are placed from one to four feet asunder, and the mounds often come to

gether at the base. Another is buried by laying the corpse between two former mounds, and over this is reared another mound, the base of which rests upon the tops of the two former. In this buryingground, which has been used but three years, there is one grave and mound resting upon two more, which are to be distinctly seen; and the top of the highest is between eight and nine feet above the level of the adjoining ground; and many smaller mounds resting upon others in the same manner. Supposing this tribe to inhabit their present village but a century, and pursue the same method of burying their dead, they would raise a mound forty or fifty feet high, and many rods in circumference. May not this account for the various mounds found in the Indian country.

Indian granaries.

I saw several of the granaries belonging to this tribe. They are holes dug in the earth, where the soil is sandy and dry. The entrance is about two feet and a half in diameter, enlarging as it goes into the earth, in the form of a large still. This is lined with dry grass; and when they leave home on a hunting expedition, they deposit their corn, kettles, and whatever they do not take with them, in this granary, and cover it about a foot thick with dirt and mud, in such a manner as to make it resemble the adjoining earth. This is done to deceive, if possible, their enemies, who may come for plunder in their absence.

Final interview with the Chiefs.

June 17.-This morning I heard the result of the deliberations of the Mahaw

chiefs, which was as follows. Big Elk, the principal chief, spoke for the whole :

"Father,-Your propositions are all good, and for my benefit and that of my people. There is no reason why I should reject them. Father, the Americans are very kind, and have pity on us. They often give me a knife, and powder, and tobacco, for which I do not trade, nor give any skins. I am convinced the Great Spirit has done more for the white man than he has for the red man. I think he is truly with the white man; and