and Aurungzebe, successively enjoyed the soubahship of Guzerat, and kept a splendid court at Ahmedabad, which they greatly improved, and there fostered all the arts of peace. Ahmedabad continued under the Mahratta government until 1779, when an English army, commanded by General Goddard, took it by storm; and for political reasons, the city with its immediate territory was ceded to Futty Sihng the Hindoo Chieftain of Guzerat, leaving an English garrison in the citadel, which they were in possession of on my arrival at the termination of the war in 1783, when it was restored to the Mahrattas.

The most splendid palaces at Ahmedabad were in too ruinous a state during my visit, to furnish a sufficient description; but to give some idea of these structures in the time of the imperial princes, I shall mention the dewané khass, one of the halls in the palace of Shah Allum, described by Francklin; which, although repeatedly stripped and plundered by successive invaders, still retains great beauty. "This building is a hundred and fifty feet in length, by forty in breadth. The roof is flat, supported by numerous columns of fine white marble, which have been richly ornamented with inlaid flowered work of different coloured stones. The cornices and borders have been decorated with a frieze and sculptured work. The ceiling was formerly incrusted with a rich foliage of silver, throughout its whole extent; and the delicacy of the inlaying in the compartments of the walls is much to be admired. Around the exterior of the dewané khass, in the cornice, are the following lines, written in letters of gold, upon a ground of white marble: " If there be a paradise upon earth this is it; it is this; it is this!" The

terrace of this building is composed of large slabs of marble, and the whole is crowned at top with four cupolas of the same material. The royal baths built by Shah Jehan near the dewané khass, consisting of three large rooms, surmounted by domes of white marble, are lined with the same, and ornamented with beautiful borders of flowers, worked with cornelian stones."

During the splendid reigns of the imperial house of Timur, we behold despotism in rather an engaging form; in cultivating the arts of peace, she assumes her mildest aspect; yet absolute power, in its best estate, must be attended with many unhappy consequences. A prince, who wishes to rule with clemency, rarely has it in his power. Shortly after the royal diadem adorns his brow, some confederacy is formed against him, by sons, brothers, or near relations, and he thinks himself under the necessity of putting them to death, or depriving them of sight, to prevent his own destruction from a successor who is too soon to feel the thorns so thickly intermingled with the roses of royalty.

These horrid crimes cast a gloom over oriental annals; history paints the way to the musnud through a sea of blood; yet, after being firmly established, the Mogul princes in general governed well. No monarch ever ascended a more sanguinary throne than Aurungzebe; we start with horror at the treatment of his aged father, and the cruel fate of his wretched brothers; but when these obstacles were removed, few sovereigns have displayed (except in his bigotted persecution of the Hindoos) more justice and clemency than Aurungzebe, during a long reign of fifty years:

many parts of his character formed a pattern for sovereigns in milder governments. But since the usurpations in the empire, the invasion of Nadir Shah, and the conquests of the Mahrattas, few traces of his excellent regulations exist; we can only lament over their ruins.

I shall not attempt a detail of the cruel oppressions and mean advantages of the Mahratta pundits and governors, now dispersed throughout Guzerat, and occupying these magnificent remains of Mogul splendour. Their severe exactions have already rendered the district of Ahmedabad, once so flourishing and delightful, almost a desert; and thousands of industrious subjects are annually leaving it, to seek protection under milder governments.

220

LEAVE AHMEDABAD.

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Ahmedabad-Mosques and Tombs at PeeranaDolcah-Cusbattees-Correspondence with Mirza Zummaun, Vizier of Cambay Slavery in India-Nabob's Entertainment at Dil Gusha-Professed Story-tellers at Cambay-Illustrations of Scripture by Modern Customs in India-Intelligent Brahmins-Departure from Cambay.

WE left Ahmedabad at day-break, on the 8th of May; some refreshing showers had fallen the preceding evening, which laid the dust, and arrayed every object with a lovely verdure. This may appear a trifling circumstance in Europe, but it affords an unspeakable pleasure to a traveller in the torrid zone, and at this season of the year is very unusual.

The costly mosques and mausoleums at Peerana, a sacred spot, seven miles from Ahmedabad, detained us a considerable time. These tombs are of white marble, adorned with ostriches' eggs, rows of false pearl, and wreaths of flowers. The walls, pillars, and domes of the mouldering edifices which contain them, are inlaid with small looking-glasses, agates, and cornelians, more gaudy than elegant, and very inferior to the shrines at Bettwah; although these, from having been erected to the memory of Mahomedan saints, are held in higher veneration. The tracery of the

windows is extremely neat, and filled with stained glass from Europe, in the manner of our cathe

drals.

From Peerana we rode five miles through a pleasant country to the banks of the Sabermatty, forded its shallow stream, and continued our journey to Dolcah, a large town eighteen miles from Ahmedabad, where the offer of a summer-palace, surrounded by a charming garden, fountains, and groves of fruit-trees, tempted us to remain till the next morning.

Dolcah, a cusbah or town, inhabited by landholders on military tenure, is four miles in circuit, not fortified, but surrounded by a mud wall; the gates are strong, and the town furnishes twenty thousand Cusbattees, who form a sort of equestrian militia; many of them are warlike, of good family, and men of property. Dolcah is celebrated for several spacious tanks lined with stone: one of them is adorned with an island and bridge like that at Kokarea. Near these lakes are several ruined palaces, mosques, and tombs, once splendid and beautiful. The surrounding country was cultivated in large enclosures, planted with mango, tamarind, and kirney trees. In times of tranquillity, the Dolcah purgunna yields a revenue of eight lacs of rupees, but the Coolies and Cotties already mentioned were then so very troublesome, that cultivation only flourished near the towns; the distant plains were assuming the appearance of a forest overrun with a variety of game. The inhabitants of Dolcah assured us that their farmers and ploughmen were attended by warriors to keep off the banditti; and near every village we found centinels