spacious serai. Magnificent as was the first entrance, the one fronting it on the opposite side of the square was still more so; the roof being ornamented with two rows of small domes above the entablature, each row containing eleven of those elegant white cupolas with gilded spires. This superb portal, which indeed forms a spacious apartment, is ascended by a noble flight of steps; a similar descent on the other side leads to an extensive garden, enriched with groves of cypress and other trees. In the centre is a noble avenue, with a canal and fountains, leading to a large marble reservoir, with a beautiful jette d'eau. On each side of the garden is a respondent structure of elegant architecture; one a musjid, or place of worship, the other apparently intended for the accommodation of the great officers of the imperial court. Between those buildings, at the termination of the garden, on the banks of the river Jumna, stands the mausoleum of the empress Momtaz Mahal, deservedly the wonder of the eastern world.

Taje Mahal, standing due north and south on the southern bank of the river Jumna, was built by the command of the emperor Shah Jehan, for the interment of his favourite Sultana, Momtaz Mahal, preeminent, or most honoured of the seraglio; or Momtaz al Zumani, superior of the age; both having been the titles of the empress. This mausoleum is commonly called Taje Gunse, or Taje Mahal, meaning the repository, or the abode of the diadem, alluding allegorically to her, as the most brilliant gem of the seraglio. The word seraglio being an Italianization of serah, or mohl serah, signifying the female apartments held sacred among the Mahomedans. The posthu

SHAH JEHAN'S MAUSOLEUM.

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mous title of the empress was Mehd Aalea, which means Reposing in Heaven."

The emperor Shah Jehan intended erecting a similar mausoleum for himself on the opposite side of the river, and connecting the two magnificent structures by a bridge; but succeeding events having prevented the completion of this great design, his remains were, by order of his son and successor, Aurungzebe, also deposited in this beautiful edifice, which, in point of design and execution, is one of the most extraordinary works anywhere extant. The admirable art and nicety of the masonry has hitherto withstood the effect of time: nor have successive barbarous and predatory conquerors yet violated its sanctity and beauty. Two great squares or areas contain the principal buildings; those of the outer one seem intended for the convenience of travellers, distant visitors, and the inferior officers and dependents of the roza, a name for the mausoleum, but implying something saintly or sanctified. The inner square, which is entered through a stupendous dome, with brass gates, most elaborately and exquisitely worked, is an entire garden, shaded by numerous stately trees, adorned by marble canals and a fine reservoir, studded with fountains through the middle avenue. The right and left boundaries of the garden are formed by magnificent buildings for recreation and devotion.

At the extremity of the garden, opposite the grand entrance, and overlooking the river, stands pre-eminent, and alone, elevated on a very extensive platform, having a lofty minaret at each corner, composed entirely of beautifully white marble, the imperial roza; in which, under the grand centre dome, rest the ashes of the emperor and his consort in separate tombs.

This building, in point of design and execution, is one of the most extensive, elegant, commodious, and perfect works, that was ever undertaken and finished by one man. To this celebrated architect the emperor Shah-Jehan gave the title of Zerreer Dust, or jewel-handed, to distinguish him from all other artists. This extraordinary man, knowing the impatience of the emperor, and the peculiar situation of the intended structure, on the precarious banks of the river, after laying a strong foundation, secreted himself for twelve months, nor could the strictest search by imperial mandate discover his retreat. At the expiration of that period, he voluntarily appeared in the hall of audience, and throwing himself on the emperor's clemency, declared that he had absconded from the fear of being urged by his majesty to proceed with the superstructure before he had sufficiently proved the solidity of the foundation. Of this being now perfectly satisfied, he was ready to fulfil the imperial command.

On each side, and behind the mausoleum, is a suit of elegant apartments, also of white marble, highly decorated with coloured stones. The tombs and other principal parts of this vast fabric, are inlaid with wreaths of flowers and foliage in their natural colours, entirely composed of cornelians, onyxes, verdantique, lapis-lazuli, and every variety of agates, so admirably finished as to have rather the appearance of an ivory model set with jewels, just delivered from the artist's hand, than an edifice which has withstood the inclemency of the elements a hundred and fortyseven years.

Journey from Agra to Gou Ghaut-Secundra, tomb of AkberCeremonies at the first public visit to Mhadajee Sindia-Bhindera Bhund-Dieuisthans-Singular gosaing-Visit to Shah Aalum, emperor of Delhi-Rebellion of Gulam Kaudir—Journey from Muttra to Delhi-Ameer's palaces-Zenana-Jumma musjid-Mausoleums-Tomb of Khan Khanna-Palaces on the banks of the Jumna-Return to Sindia's camp.

ON Sir Charles Malet's arrival at Agra, some difficulties arose, with respect to his meeting with Mahdajee Sindia, who was then encamped at Muttra, about twenty-eight miles from the city, with Shah Aalum, the degraded emperor of Delhi. The purport of this intended meeting was to concert with Mhadajee Sindia the best mode of completing the establishment of the embassy to the court of Poonah, in the manner most compatible with the interests of the English and the views of this great chieftain, through whom those interests had been for some time conducted with the Peshwa of the Mahratta empire. This predicament, certainly of considerable delicacy, was soon cleared of its obstacles, by the address of Mr. James Anderson, then resident minister from the governmentgeneral of India, with Mhadajee Sindia.

On the 13th of May Sir Charles received a letter from Mr. Anderson, dated at Sindia's camp, informing

him that two Mahratta chiefs of rank and consequence, were deputed to wait upon him, and conduct the embassy to the camp near Muttra. The same evening Appajee arrived at Agra with a party of cavalry, and presented himself at Taje Mahal, having left his colleague with a much larger escort at Gou Ghaut, twelve miles from Agra. In consequence of this arrangement, and the cattle and attendants being well refreshed, the baggage was ordered to proceed on the following day; and on the 16th they left the terrestrial paradise surrounding the Taje-Mahal, and commenced their journey towards Sindia's camp. A melancholy scene, of ruin and desolation, similar to that already described, marked the first part of their progress from the royal gardens, through the suburbs and environs of Agra.

About half-way from thence to Gou Ghaut, or Ox-ford, they came to Secundra, celebrated for the mausoleum of Akber, situated within a large enclosure, resembling a park, shaded by noble trees, and entered by four handsome gates, leading to the roza, in the centre, which is a magnificent structure, inlaid with different coloured marble, agates, and precious stones, extremely rich and costly, but rather in a heavy style; the part most ornamented is on the uppermost terrace, and having no cover, is entirely exposed to the weather; it is exquisitely finished, and the platform of black and white marble. The tomb itself is of plain white marble. The interior of the arch at the principal entrance is adorned with verses, expressive of the founder's extensive fame, and numerous victories, with moral reflections on the instability of human great

ness.