huts, in which a Hindoo when given over by his physicians, is deposited, and left alone to expire and be carried off by the sacred flood. We fastened our boats opposite the town of Nuddeah, where the songs and dances throughout the whole night, for the festival of the Desserah, and some funeral dirges at the Hindoo cremations on another part of the bank, engaged our attention until day-break, when we dropped down to Culnah, a large village; and soon after entered a nullah, which brought us to Ballyghurra, where the waters having entirely subsided, we were gratified with a view of ploughs, harrows, and the various implements of husbandry at work on the arable plains, now ready to receive the seed.

During the last few days, sailing with a light wind has given some respite to the labours of the dandies, or boatmen, who pass their lives in great exertion on these rivers; in coming down the Ganges they are obliged to row, and in going up against the stream, are constantly tracking with the rope. As few conditions are without their relative comforts, so the dandies have theirs. During the evening meal and nightly halt, the toil of the day is forgotten; they generally contrive to bring their boats to some convenient station, where numerous fires blaze on the banks, a good supper is dressed, and mirth and festivity unite with the adventures of the day, to beguile the time till their meal is finished, and all lie down to repose. No fires are permitted in the budjerows; those who wish for hot meals have them dressed in separate boats.

The next morning we had a fine view of the Dutch settlement at Chinsura; and immediately after of the

French establishment at Chandernagore: they both make a very respectable appearance from the river; especially the house belonging to the French chief, at a little distance from the town. We next passed the Danish settlement of Serampore, where the Danes have long enjoyed themselves in undisturbed tranquillity, and a flourishing commerce. Four large ships were at anchor before the town, where the neatness of the houses and gardens, the goodness of the roads, and the stir of business, indicated peace and comfort.

A short distance brought us within view of the forest of masts before the magnificent buildings at Calcutta, where we landed in the evening of the 18th of October, after a voyage of much interest and variety.

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EMBARKATION FOR ENGLAND.

CHAPTER XVI.

The Author embarks for the Malabar Coast and EnglandArrival at Goa-Residence at Goa and Panjeem-Onore taken by the English from Tippoo Sultaun-Pass the Fortress when blockaded by the Sultaun's Troops, without affording relief— Residence at Tellicherry-Cruel Fate of the English Prisoners with Tippoo Sultaun, taken at Bedmure-Savage Treatment of the Officers and Privates in marching through the CountryFate of General Mathews and two other Gentlemen taken off by Poisoned Coffee-Mechanical Tiger-Refinements in Cruelty-Rigid Discipline of Tippoo-Hyder Ally's Character superior to his Son's-Origin of Hyder-Mangulore-Splendour of the Tiger Throne-The Huma-Prayer of Tippoo-Account of Hyder's Durbar-Many Particulars of Tippoo's Character, Dress, &c.-Anecdote of a Chinese-Lulhabby-Sail from Tellicherry-Anecdotes of Hyder Ally and Zamorine of Calicut-Chetwa-Departure for Europe-Reflections on that event, and the melancholy fate of former Shipmates-Voyage from the Malabar Coast to St. Helena-Sargasso, or Grasssea-Flying-fish-Terrific Storm-Arrival in England.

On the eighteenth day of January 1784, I embarked with my family connexions, and several valuable friends, who had taken their passage for Europe, in the General Elliott East Indiaman; many others accompanied us on board, from whom we parted with sincere regret. We sailed immediately for the Malabar coast, where we were to complete our cargo of pepper, at Goa and Tellicherry; a fair wind carried

CAPTAIN TORRIANO.

455

us clear of the harbour, and in a few hours we lost sight of all the endeared and interesting objects on Bombay.

In two days we arrived at Goa, spent a fortnight there with Mr. Crommelin, the English resident. While the ship was receiving her cargo, we made several excursions into the adjacent country; sometimes sailing up the river, we visited the desolate city of Goa, formerly described, which now presented a still more melancholy picture of wretchedness and ruin. The churches, monasteries, prisons, and inquisition, were kept in repair; but the streets in general exhibited only mouldering palaces and falling houses, depopulated and silent! The governor, Don Frederic, no longer styled Viceroy, but Captain General of India, was a nobleman of amiable manners, and an accomplished gentleman: he entertained us in a princely style at his palace, and formed in every respect a striking contrast to the courtiers by whom he was surrounded.

Alternate land and sea breezes wafted us pleasantly from Goa to Tellicherry.

I described Onore in the voyage to Anjengo; it was now in possession of the English, who took the fortress from the sultaun of Mysore at the commencement of the unfortunate expedition under general Mathews. Onore fort was at this time defended by Captain (now Major) Torriano, an officer in the Bombay artillery, frequently mentioned for his gallant behaviour when acting as brigade major to the British troops employed in Guzerat for the assistance of Ragonath Row. This enterprising officer ac

quired additional honours in his defence of Onore against the force and treachery of Tippoo Sultaun, during a siege of three months, and a blockade of much longer continuance. Captain Torriano was my intimate friend, as also of several other passengers on board the General Elliot. We knew his arduous situation, we knew him resolutely determined to maintain his post until a peace, although in want of ammunition, stores, and provision for the garrison, and destitute of almost every comfort and necessary of life; what then must have been our feelings when we were obliged to pass within view of the blockaded fortress, without affording relief to himself and his brave comrades!

We continued a fortnight at Tellicherry to complete the cargo of pepper. Our Tellicherry friends formed parties for us to Mahie, Durmapatam, and other places in its vicinity. The country is extremely pleasant for such excursions, and the weather at this season delightful. Indeed, the climate of Tellicherry is reckoned one of the finest in India; the land winds are generally moderate, the sea breezes cool and refreshing. A constant trade during the fair season, with vessels of all descriptions from different parts of India, renders this settlement very lively; while the number of civil servants, with the garrison officers and their families, beguile the rainy months in cheerful society and domestic enjoyments.

During our stay my friends kindly procured me every possible variety in the natural history of this part of Malabar; among others a beautiful frog, richly shaded and spotted with blue, yellow, orange,