The Indians enter into the Cueva del Guacharo once a-year, near midsummer, armed with poles, by means of which they destroy the greater part of the nests. At this season several thousands of birds are killed; and the old ones, to defend their brood, hover around the heads of the savage Indians, uttering terrible cries, which would appal any heart but that of man in an untutored state.

We followed, as we continued our progress through the cavern, the banks of the small river which issued from it, and is from twenty-eight to thirty feet wide. We walked on the banks, as far as the hills formed of calcareous incrustations permitted us. When the torrent winds among very high masses of stalactites, we were often obliged to descend into its bed, which is only two feet in depth. We learnt with surprise, that this subterraneous rivulet is the origin of the river Caripe, which, at a few leagues distance, after having joined the small river of Santa Maria, is navigable for canoes. It enters into the river Areo under the name of Canno de Terezen. We found on the banks of the subterraneous rivulet a great quantity of palm-tree wood, the remains of trunks, on which the Indians climb to reach the nests hanging to the roofs of the cavern. The rings, formed by the vestiges of the old footstalks of the leaves, furnish as it were the footsteps of a ladder perpendicularly placed.

The grotto of Caripe preserves the same direction, the same breadth, and its primitive height of sixty or seventy feet, to the distance of 1458 feet, accurately measured. I have never seen a cavern in either continent, of so uniform and regular a construction. We had great difficulty in persuading the Indians to pass beyond the outer part of the grotto, the only part which they annually visit to collect the fat. The whole authority of los padres was necessary, to induce them to advance as far as the spot where the soil rises abruptly at an inclination of sixty degrees, and where the torrent forms a small subterraneous cascade.* The natives connect mystic ideas with this cave, inhabited by nocturnal birds; they believe, that the

We find this phenomenon of a subterranean cascade, but on a much larger scale, in England, at Yordas cave, near Kingsdale, in Yorkshire.

souls of their ancestors sojourn in the deep recesses of the cavern. "Man," say they, "should avoid places which are enlightened neither by the Sun nor by the Moon." To go and join the guacharoes, is to rejoin their fathers, is to die. The magicians and the poisoners perform their nocturnal tricks at the entrance of the cavern, to conjure the chief of the evil spirits.

At the point where the river forms the subterraneous cascade, a hill covered with vegetation, which is opposite the opening of the grotto, presents itself in a very picturesque manner. It appears at the extremity of a straight passage, 240 toises in length. The stalactites, which descend from the vault, and which resemble columns suspended in the air, display themselves on a back-ground of verdure. The opening of the cavern appeared singularly contracted, when we saw it about the middle of the day, illumined by the vivid light reflected at once from the sky, the plants, and the rocks. The distant light of day formed somewhat of magical contrast with the darkness that surrounded us in those vast caverns. We climb

ed, not without some difficulty, the small hill, whence the subterraneous rivulet descends. We saw that the grotto was perceptibly contracted, retaining only forty feet in its height; and that it continued stretching to the northeast, without deviating from its primitive direction, which is parallel to that of the great valley of Caripe.

The missionaries, with all their authority, could not prevail on the Indians to penetrate farther into the cavern. As the vault grew lower, the cries of the guacharoes became more shrill. We were obliged to yield to the pusillanimity of our guides, and trace back our steps. We followed the course of the torrent to go out of the cavern. Before our eyes were dazzled with the light of day, we saw without the grotto, the water of the river sparkling amid the foilage of the trees that concealed it. It was like a picture placed in the distance, and to which the mouth of the cavern served as a frame. Having at length reached the entrance, and seated ourselves on the bank of the rivulet, we rested after our fatigues. We were glad to be beyond the hoarse cries of the birds, and to leave a place where darkness does not offer even the charms of silence and tranquility.

GRAND STAFFA CAVERN;

OR, FINGAL'S CAVE.

[See Plates, No. 26, 27.]

By far the best description of this very extraordinary feature of the most wonderful island of the Hebrides, the whole of which constitutes as singular and romantic a spot as is any where to be found, has been given by Sir Joseph Banks, from whose more detailed account we extract the following particulars.

STAFFA, about seven miles N. N. E. of Jona, and equi-distant westward from the shores of Mull, about one mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, is noted for the basaltic pillars which support the major part of the island, and for the magnificent spectacle afforded by the Cave of Fingal, one of the most splendid works of nature.

Notwithstanding the contiguity of this island to Mull and Jona, and the numerous vessels which navigate these seas, this wonderful Island was unknown to the world in general, and even to most of the neighbouring islanders, until near the close of the last century, when Sir Joseph, then on his voyage to Iceland, in consequence of information received in the sound of Jona from some gentlemen of Mull, was induced to sail thither. It is, indeed, slightly mentioned by Buchanan; but assuredly was not equally dead to fame at the time the Norwegians had sway in these parts; for from them it derives its name of Staffa.

The basaltic pillars stand in natural colonnades, mostly above fifty feet high, in the south-western part, upon a firm basis of solid unshapen rock; above these, the stratum, which reaches to the soil of the island, varies in thickness, in proportion to the distribution of the surface into hill and valley. The pillars are of three, four, and more sides; but the number of those with five and six exceeds that of the others; one of seven sides, measured by Sir Joseph, was four feet five inches in diameter.

On the west side of Staffa is a small bay, the spot where boats usually land. In this neighbourhood occurs the first

group of pillars; they are small, and instead of being placed upright, are recumbent on their sides, and form a segment of a circle. Further on is a small cave, above which pillars again are seen, of somewhat larger dimensions, which incline in all directions; in one place in particular, a small mass of them much resembles the ribs of a ship. Beyond the cave is the first continued range of pillars, larger than the former, and opposite to them is a small island called Bhuachaile, (pronounced Boo sha-'lay,) or the Herdsman's Isle, separated from the main by a channel not many fathoms wide. The whole of this islet is composed of pillars without any strata above them; they are small, but by much the neatest formed of any in this quarter.

The first division of this islet, for at high water, it is divided into two parts, makes a kind of cone, the pillars converging together towards the centre. On the other side the pillars are in general recumbent; and in the front, next the main, the beautiful manner in which they are joined is visible from their even extremities; all these have their tranverse sections exact, and their surfaces smooth; but with the larger pillars the reverse is the case, and they are cracked in all directions.

The main island opposite the Boo-sha-'lay, and thence towards the north-west, is entirely supported by ranges of pillars, pretty erect, which, although not apparently tall, from their not being uncovered to the base, are of large diameter; at their feet is an irregular pavement, made by the upper sides of such as have been broken off. This extends as far under the water as the eye can reach.

In proceeding along the shore, the superb cavern of Fingal appears, for such is the denomination given it by the Highlanders, to whom it is known. It is supported on each side by ranges of columns, and is roofed by the bottoms of such as have been broken away. From the interstices of the roof a yellow stalactitic matter has exuded, which precisely defines the different angles; and, varying the colour, tends to augment the elegance of its appearance. What adds to the grandeur of the scene, the whole cave is lighted from without, in such a manner, that the fartherest extremity is plainly distinguished; while the air within, being constantly in motion, owing to the flux and

reflux of the tides, is perfectly dry and wholesome, and entirely exempt from the damp vapours to which natural caverns are generally subject. The following are its di

mensions:

Length of the cave from the rock without from the pitch of the arch

Breadth of ditto at the mouth

at the farther end

Feet. Incl

371 6

250 0

53 7

20 0

117 6

70 0

Height of the arch at the mouth

at the end

Height of an outside pillar

one at the north-west corner

Depth of water at the mouth

at the extremity

The cave runs to the rock in the direction by compass N. N. E.

The mind can hardly form an idea more magnificent than such a space-And, indeed, speaking of the general aspect of Staffa, Sir Joseph is led by his enthusiasm to make the following reflections:"Compared to this, what are the cathedrals or the palaces built by men! mere models or playthings, imitations as diminutive as his works will always be when compared to those of nature. Where is now the boast of the architect! regularity, the only part in which he fancied himself to exceed his mistress, Nature, is here found in her possession, and here it has been left undescribed for ages. Is not this the school where the art was originally studied? And what has been added to this by the whole Grecian school? a capital to ornament the column of nature, of which they could execute a model only; and for that very capital they were obliged to a bush of Acanthus. How amply does nature repay those who study her wonderful works."

Such were his feelings, and in this way did he moralize, when proceeding along shore, and treading as it were, on another Giant's Causeway, he arrived at the mouth of the

cave.

To the north-west are found the highest range of pillars. Here they are bare to their base, and the stratum beneath is visible, as it rises several feet above the water. The surface of it is rough, with frequent large pieces of stone