huge masses advance in some places into the lower districts, and in others the crest recedes in long ravines, that are the beds of torrents, while behind they are clothed by a succession of the loftier cliffs. Every account we receive of a passage through them, (and this is no doubt found most commonly where the belt is narrowest,) gives a detail of many days' journey through the deserts of snow and rocks; and it is to be infered, that on the north-east side they advance to, and retreat from the low ground in an equal irregular manner. Indeed, some accounts would induce the belief, that long ranges, crowned with snow-clad peaks, project in various places from the great spine, and include habitable and milder districts; for, in all the routes of which we have accounts, that proceed, in various directions towards the Trans-Himalayan countries, hills covered with snow are occasionally mentioned as occurring, even after the great deserts are passed, and the grazing country entered. The breadth, then, of this crest of snow-clad rock itself cannot fairly be estimated at less than from seventy to eighty miles. The great snowy belt, although its loftiest crest is broken into numberless cliffs and ravines, nevertheless presents a barrier perfectly impracticable, except in those places where hollows that become the beds of rivers have in some degree intersected it, and facilitated approach to its more remote recesses; and courageous and attentive perseverance has here and there, discovered a dangerous and difficult path, by which a possibility exists of penetrating across the range. Few rivers hold their course wholly through it: indeed, in the upper part in the Sutlej alone has been traced beyond this rocky barrier; and there is a path along its stream, from different parts of which roads diverge, that lead in various directions through the mountain. No reasonable doubt can now exist of the very long and extraordinary course which this river takes. Captain Webb of the Bengal establishment, was lately employed on a survey of a province of Kumaoon. On the 21st day of June, his camp was 11,680 feet above Calcutta. The surface was covered with very rich vegetation as high as the knee: very extensive beds of strawberries in full flower; and plenty of currant-bushes in blossom all around, in a clear spot of rich black mould Te st of s; ade soil, surrounded by a noble forest of pine, oak, and rhododendra. On the 22nd of June he reached the top of Pilgoenta-Churhaee, (or ascent,) 12,642 feet above Calcutta. He was prevented from distinguishing very distant objects by a dense fog around him; but there was not the smallest patch of snow near him, and the surface a fat black mould through which the rock peeped, was covered with strawberry plants (not yet in flower,) butter-cups, dandelion, and a profusion of other flowers. The shoulders of the hill above him, about 450 feet more elevated, were covered with the same to the top; and above 500 feet below was a forest of pine, rhododendron, and birch. There was some snow seen below in deep hollows, but it dissolves in the course of the season. These facts led Captain Webb to infer, that the inferior limit of perpetual congelation on the Himala mountains is beyond 18,500 feet, at least, above the level of Calcutta: and that the level of the table land of Tartary, immediately bordering on the Himala, is very far elevated beyond 8000 feet, the height at which it has been estimated : and altho' I may not be able either to make all the deductions which they will afford, or to shun any errors that they may involve, they will still, I think, yield some ground of inference to estimate the height to which I ascended; and consequently, give some approximation to the heights of the surrounding peaks. On the night of the 16th of July, we slept at Bheemkeudar, near the source of the Coonoo and Bheem streams.--There is no wood near this place, even in the very bottom of the valley, and we had left even the stunted birch at a considerable distance below: but there was a profusion of flowers, ferns, thistles, &c. and luxuriant pasturage.-Captain Webb's limit of wood is at least as high as 12,000 to 12,300 feet. I would, therefore, presume the site of Bheemkeudar to be considerably above that level; say 13,000 to 13,300 feet above the level of Calcutta. From thence we ascended at first rather gradually, and then very rapidly, till we left all luxuriant vegetation, and entered the region of stripped and scattered and partially melting snow, (for nearly two miles of the perambulator.) From calculating the distance passed, and adverting to the elevation we had attained. I would presume that this was at least 1500 feet above Bheemkeudar, or from 14,500 to 15,000 feet above Calcutta. We proceeded onwards, ascending very rapidly, while vegetation decreased gradually to a mere green moss, with here and there a few snow-flowers starting through it; snow fast increasing, till at length we entered on what I presume was the perennial and unmelting snow, entirely beyond the line of vegetation, where the rock was bare even of linchens: and in this we ascended, as I think, about 800 feet; for, though Bamsooroo Ghat may not be so far above this line, we continued ascending, even after crossing that point, and I would incline to estimate this utmost extent of ascent at 2000 feet more, or nearly 17,000 feet above the level of Calcutta. Whilst proposing to consider the point of 16,000 to 16,500 feet as that of inferior congelation, I must observe that there was no feeling of frost in the air, and the snow was moist, though hard, chiefly through the influence of a thick mist, which, in fact, amounted to a very small drizzling rain, which fell around: all which would seem to indicate, that the true line of congelation had not there been attained; but we were surrounded by snow which evidently never melted. To a great depth below it extended all over the hills, very little broken, while on the valleys from whence the Coonoo and Bheem streams issue, at full 2000 feet below it lay covering them and the surrounding mountains in an unbroken mass, many hundred feet thick. Thus, though it may seem contradictory, the line of perpetual congelation, in fact seems fixable at even below the point I have ventured to indicate; and, I presume might, on these grounds, be placed somewhere between 15 and 16,000 feet above the level of Calcutta. The result of all the considerations that arise out of the foregoing remarks is a belief, that the loftiest peaks of the Himala range will be found to fall considerably short of the height attributed to them by Mr. Colebrooke; and that their loftiest peaks do not more than range from 18,000 to 22 or 23,000 feet above the level of the sea. Having reached the top of an ascent, we looked says Mr. Fraser, down upon a very deep and dark glen, called Palia Gadh, which is the outlet to the waters of one of the most terrific and gloomy valleys I have ever seen. But it would not be easy to convey by any description a just idea of the peculiarly rugged and gloomy wildness of this glen: it looks like the ruins of nature, and appears, as is said to be, completely impracticable and impenetrable. Little is to be seen except dark rock: wood only fringes the lower parts and the waters' edge : perhaps the spots and streaks of snow, contrasting with the general blackness of the scene, heighten the appearance of desolation. No living thing is seen; no motion but that of the waters; no sound but their roar. Such a spot is suited to engender superstition, and here it is accordingly found in full growth. Many wild traditions are preserved, and many extravagant stories related of it. The glen above described is by far the most gloomy savage scene we have yet met with. I regret that the weather did not permit a sketel of it to be attempted. Beyond this we could see nothing in the course of the river but rocky banks. The opposite side is particularly precipitous; yet along its face a road is carried, which is frequented as much as this, and leads to villages still farther up. By the time we had reached the village, the clouds which had lowered around and sunk down on the hills, began to burst with loud thunder and heavy rain. The noise was fearfully reverberated among the hills; and during the night more than once the sound was heard of fragments from the brows of the mountains, crashing down to the depths below with a terrific din. Our quarters were good. I slept in a temple, neat, clean and secure from the weather. GUNGOTREE, THE SOURCE OF THE JUMNA, A BRANCH OF GUNGOTREE, the source of the Jumna, the most sacred branch of the Ganges, ought to hold and does bear the first rank among its holy places. Here, says Mr. Fraser, all is mythological if not holy ground. Here Mahadeo sits enthroned in clouds and mist amid rocks that defy the approach of living thing, and snows that make desolation more awful. Gods, goddesses, and saints here continually adore him at mysterious distance, and you traverse their familiar haunts. But, although Gungotree be the most sacred, it is not the most frequented shrine, access to it being far more difficult than to Buddrinauth; and consequently to this latter, pilgrims flock in crowds, appalled at the remoteness and danger of the former place of worship. This may pretty fully account for the supe rior riches and splendour of Buddrinauth. Here are temples of considerable extent, priests and officials in abundance, who preserve an imposing exterior, and an appearance venerable from power and comparative magnificence, and consequently procure rich and ample offerings to keep up their comfortable dignity. The temple of Bhadri-Nath, is situated on the west bank of the Alackunda, in a valley four miles long, and one mile in its greatest breadth. The east bank rises considerably higher than the west bank, and is on a level with the top of the temple. The position of the sanctuary is considered equi-distant from two lofty mountains, which are designated by the names of the Nar and the Narayena Purvatas. The former is to the east, the latter to the west, and completely covered with snow from the summit to the base. The temple of Bhadri-Nath has more beneficed lands attached to it than any sacred Hindu establishment in this part of India. It is said to possess 700 villages in different parts of Gurwhal and Kumaoon: many of them have been conferred by the government; others have been given in pledge for loans; and some few, purchased by individuals, have been presented as religious offerings. The annual ceremony of carrying the images of their gods to wash in the sacred stream of the Jumna is (it appears) one of much solemnity among the inhabitants of the neighbourhood; and the concourse of people here assembled has been busily engaged, and continues to be fully occupied in doing honor to it. They dance to the sound of strange music, and intoxicate themselves with a sort of vile spirit, brewed here from grain and particular roots, sometimes, it is said sharpened by pepper. The dance is most grotesque and savage: a multitude of men taking hands sometimes in a circle, sometimes in a line, beating time with their feet, bend with one accord, first nearly to the earth with their faces, then backwards, and then sidewise, with various wild contortions. These, and their uncouth dress of black and grey blankets, give |