who have not yet dabbled in its practice. We may first observe that the apple even on the Crab or free stock is not quite so liable to tap-roots as the pear on the wild or free stock. Another point we may name also the apple with an over severe amount of rootpruning is apt to become infested with red spider during the first summer after the operation. This we have repeatedly proved, and the remedy is sometimes worse than the disease. We introduce this caution to show that some degree of moderation becomes necessary, and that although root pruning is correct in principle, yet it may be prejudiced in rash hands. We always deem it expedient, therefore, to apply a mulching to espalier or trained apples immediately on the heels of the operation: this encourages surface roots, and prevents the too sudden operation of extreme drought, which, combined with rootpruning the summer succeeding the operation—is abnost sure to cause the tree to be infested with the spider, the scale, or what is as bad as either, that rusty-looking fungus on the leaf, which if not checked may soon break up the constitution of the tree. We have had much experience of this last enemy, to which light and hot soils are peculiarly liable, and the only cure for it, as far as our experience goes, is a permanency of moisture at the root.

R. ERRINGTON.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

DAHLIAS IN THE FIRST PRIZE STANDS AT THE ROYAL SOUTH LONDON FLORICULTURAL SOCIETY IN SEPTEMBER, 1849.

1849.

*Captain Warner, exhibited in Edinburgh in 1849.

2 to 3

do. do.

do. do. beaten

by Gem and Shylock. *Princess Radzivill, exhibited

in Edinburgh in 1849. Queen of Roses, rosy pink, not much

4

Box, bright scarlet ..

5

Duke of Wellington, orange Fearless, rosy lilac, fine

*Gem, white and lavender

3

4 Scarlet Gem, a fine formed flower, but inferior to the next

Hector, dark maroon, fine

4

finest of that colour

3

Conspicua, sulphur, shaded with purple-will do yet Essex Bride, blush lilac: no one would select this Bride now *Essex Triumph, very dark, not so good as Black Prince *Gem, exhibited in London in

Raphael, dark, but not near so

*Louis Philippe, crimson, fine *Marchioness

4

of Cornwallis,

*Toison d' Or, pale buff, a fine dwarf

1819.

2

blush, fine

*Miss Vyse, white, tipped purple, fine

3

* Mr. Seldon, rosy purple,

shaded with lilac, extra fine

Mynn, crimson, fine..

Victory, rosy purple or dull red 5 Violet Perfection, a purple violet, fine 3*Yellow Standard, fine-the best 4 yellow out

Gloria Mundi, buff-will not do now

4

4

3

*Lady St. Maur, white, tipped with lavender, good *Louis Philippe, must not say exhibited in London.

Sarah, white, faced with cherry (nearly done)

Scarlet Gem, exhibited in London and Edinburgh in 1849. *Shylock, exhibited in London

in 1819.

Sir R. Peel, dull scarlet.

Springfield Rival, ruby: I believe the oldest of the whole.

Of the above show dahlias, the following 18 were in the two first winning stands in London in the autumn of 1817, and by comparing these with the former lists the poor cottager who can spare four or five shillings, or at most six, can buy a dozen of them next spring, and still have a tolerable good stock of this beautiful flower :-Beeswing, Berryer, Captivation, Captain Warner, Essex Triumph, Louis Philippe, Marchioness of Cornwallis, Marquis of Aylesbury, Mynn, Miss Vyse, Nonpareil, Princess

Bouquet de Brueil, red and white Dulcinea, lilac, with stripes of white

2

*Jenny Lind, Edinburgh and London, 1849, a good cha

4

*Empereur de Moroc, exhibited

in London in 1849.

*Emilie Lehmann, rosy scarlet,

tipped with white..

3

Freund Schmidt, red, tipped

white, good

4

*Hermione, Edinburgh and

London, 1819, a good cha

racter.

died, and as his executors did not inherit his tastes, poor Main had something else to think about than tracing the damaged remnants he succeeded in bringing home. Being very unobtrusive in his manners, Mr. Main was not a man to pretend to an honour to which he was not clearly entitled, though, as many of the cases for Kew, and private gardens, sent in other ships were in fair order, when the fleet touched at St. Helena, it is to be presumed that some of them would reach their destination in safety. Now, I would not have introduced these matters, but for one fact which I think at present will be extremely useful to many of those who hardly know how they are to save their plants during the winter. The fact was one to which Mr. Main several times alluded in private conversation; namely, that he never was so mortified in his life as to find at St. Helena that boxes of plants in other ships were comparatively safe and sound, that had never been touched, received no attention, but were nevertheless comparatively unscathed during the variations of temperature through which they had passed; while the plants under his own care, on which he had bestowed nights and days of watchfulness, in giving air, in shading, in watering, in moving from one part of the ship to the other, were miserable wrecks. He saw enough to teach him his error, and no doubt would have been more successful if he had returned a second time. He killed his plants with extreme care, just as many of our cottager friends lose theirs, because they have such a desire to coax and coddle them at unsuitable times. A lady very fond of flowers, and especially of fuchsias, had by our directions put them during the winter in a room in the garden, which had a few squares of glass in the door, with advice to keep them dry. Her liege lord, a very learned and, what is better, a very good man, and who would laugh heartily were I even to put his name in print, though he had never been known to handle the water-pot, yet espying these fuchsias in a fine day in winter, his feeling heart could not but take compassion upon the poor starved driedlike things, and he said to himself, "Well, I must give them a reviving drop for once," and true enough he drenched them well, and soaked the floor into the bargain. The frost of the following night next thing to settled the plants, which but for his kindness would have been safe. The rule, then, to be deduced from this digression, and which just meets the case of some correspondents, is, if you cannot apply artificial heat so as to keep your plants growing slowly during winter, the best thing is to place them just where the frost will not reach them, where vitality shall be preserved, but where all growth shall be discouraged until the days lengthen and the weather becomes

warmer.

The camellia is hardier even than the Chinese azalea. It has hence been recommended to plant it out of doors, and even to train it against a south wall, which, however, we should consider the most objectionable place for it, for two reasons; first because the leaves do not like the full glare of sunlight in this country; and, secondly, the buds would be so forward that they would be apt to open their blossoms during winter, when from frost and rains they would not be worth looking at. A better plan would be to plant them out in a shallow border on a north aspect, as there the growth would be more stunted, the wood as firm, with a chance of blooming later in the spring. We mention this because some may wish to experimentalize at acclimatising, though we have little hopes of seeing the camellia succeeding out of doors, not because the plant is so tender, but because its

We

flowers open naturally in winter and spring, when protection from such weather as we generally have is necessary to ensure their beauty. The foliage, indeed, is beautiful, but without its splendid flowers, we see little to recommend the camellia, merely as an evergreen, over our common or Portugal laurels. should, therefore, recommend that they be all removed into the greenhouse and conservatory, or at least be placed under shelter. If grown early for a few years, they will flower afterwards early in winter with but little trouble, and thus nobly take the place of the chrysanthemums, when the blaze of that autumn flower is over. To obtain early flowering, the plants should be taken for a few seasons to a vinery or peach-house at work in the spring, where they would be slightly shaded; rapid growth would thus be encouraged, and then, after being more exposed to harden the wood and set the buds, the plants may be removed to a sheltered place out of doors during the end of summer and the mild part of autumn. The wood will thus be sturdier and the buds firmer; but care should be taken that the leaves are not too much browned, as it requires a long period before they again recover their glossy green, in which their chief beauty consists. Where no forcing house exists, the same object may be gained by keeping those plants you wish to have early, along with azaleas, longer in the greenhouse, kept closer and more moist to expedite their growth, or one end may be set apart for that purpose. Those you wish to flower in winter should also be placed by themselves, as they will require a rather higher temperature to open their blossoms nicely than will do for greenhouse plants generally. When once fairly open, a low temperature will suit them. Large plants of azaleas in full flower were removed to a glass case without artificial heat, in the end of January, and suffered no harm; but then they were examined late every frosty night, and could have been removed to the conservatory if it had been very severe.

The camellia, as well as the azalea, makes a beautiful window plant, for though it be desirable to grow large specimens for greenhouses, they may be almost as safely pruned when used to it as a geranuim. "Ah!" says one of my cottage friends, "I should so like to have a nice camellia in my window, it would make such a beautiful centre, and then I could arrange my other favourites as wings; but then see the time I must keep it there before it flowers, though for that I should not mind so much, there will be so much pleasure in looking upon its swelling buds, and feasting in anticipation on the beauties afterwards to be unfolded; but what am I to do with it when it has flowered; I have no greenhouse in which to place it, no forcing house in which to nurse it; all my glass, with the exception of my windows, are two lights, manufactured by myself!" All right, you will get on capitally; these auxiliaries in the shape of two light boxes, or brick or turf pits, however rudely made, are indispensable to those who would shine in window gardening. The best substitute for them is a window in the house, with a table or stage behind it, where you can keep all your plants that require coaxing and doctoring, and which are never seen but by intimate friends, who know your object, your sitting room window being thus chiefly occupied with the results. Without the box, without the spare window, you might manage your camellia, but then you must keep it longer in the window after flowering than might be desirable, until it had commenced its growth, and then you would require to set it outside close to the wall of your house in April and May, protecting it at night, and shading it the hottest part of the day

with a cover of glazed waterproofed calico, or even oiled paper, until it was far enough advanced to be set in a sheltered place, there to stand until you want it for the window at this time next year. But with the box, every thing is easily managed. All you have to do is to take the plant to it shortly after it has finished flowering, and after you have pruned it, if getting too large. If there is a little sweet fermenting matter in the box, the camellia will like it all the better, but you must always have a little air on, and be careful the sun does not strike upon the foliage when it is moist. But, without artificial heat, the box will render good service merely by keeping the atmosphere moist and close until fresh growth is produced, and then the plant may be set out as before stated. The camellia would do without all this, and really it seems troublesome to be at so much pains about it, but the labour will not be half so much as you would imagine from my cumbrous way of telling about it; and then you must recollect that the same treatment we have recommended for the camellia will do for scores of things besides. If you can manage two plants, then we would advise the double red and the double white; if only one, choose the last, as it is the easiest to manage, and a beautiful gem it is. I have often thought that botanists, in their rage for changing names, might have exercised their ingenuity on the genus camellia, for, while we have rhododendron (from rhodon, a rose, and dendron, a tree) applied to a family bearing but slight resemblance to a rose, I know of no family more worthy of the appellation of rose-trees than fine double camellias, but, unfortunately, though possessing the beauty, they want the odour of the queen of flowers.

Our space is so nearly full that I can only allude at present to other matters, which, however, do not demand instant attention.

PROPAGATING THE CAMELLIA.-This is generally done by cuttings of the single red made in August. Every wood-bud with a leaf attached makes a cutting; when strong enough they are inarched or grafted. If the latter, the two-light box, with a little fermenting matter, or a spare corner in a cucumber box, will just be the place for them.

SOIL.-Equal parts of peat and loam will grow them admirably. If loam is used by itself, it should be of a light sandy nature. A little leaf-mould or dried cow-dung will improve the foliage, but if given plentifully the flowers will not be so abundant. When necessary we should prefer rich top-dressing, and using clear manure-water, when the plants were making their wood.

SHIFTING AND POTTING should be done just when the plants begin to push after flowering, or when the points of the shoots begin to harden after growth is finished. We prefer the first period for those intended to flower early in winter. Plants that have attained some size will bloom as well if merely topdressed and not shifted every year, but then the drainage must be all right.

WATERING.-Water should be given rather sparingly, as the glossy green foliage prevents very rapid evaporation, except when the plants are making their fresh growth and when the flower-buds are expanding, when a more liberal supply will be wanted. Sprinkling over the foliage when growing, and a little clear manure-water at the roots at times, will be very acceptable. R FISH.

HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT.

EXOTIC ORCHIDACEE.

HOUSE FOR ORCHIDS.-Whenever a zealous cultivator of plants receives any from a foreign country, it is his first inquiry, "What are the temperature, the moisture, and the seasons of growth in the country from whence I have received these plants?" And, according to the information he may obtain, whatever source he may consult, whether books or travellers, or from knowledge he may already possess, he will treat his plants, as far as he possibly can, with heat and moisture similar to that from whence they have been transported. Now the orchidaceae are a tribe of plants chiefly from hot tropical countries. The greater part of them grow on trees; some on the stems, others at the points where the branches start from the stem; a third group grow near the top of the tree, whilst some delight in its most shady part. Another point to remember is that the light of tropical regions is most intense, and that the days and nights are nearly equal. There is also in those countries a dry season and a wet season, and these alternate in some places more than once a year. Numbers of those plants, and some of the best kinds too, are found in more temperate climes. We have been assured by Mr. Skinner, a gentleman who resided several years in South America, that he has fre quently seen hoar-frost on such plants as Cattleya Skinnerii, Lycastes of sorts and others, natives of that region. Bearing these facts in our minds, what kind of house or houses will be the best to grow these wonderful plants in? Now, as they require great light, we say that the house ought to be glass, so placed as to catch all the rays of light from the sun. A span-roofed one will do so, or, to the greatest degree; therefore, a span-roofed house necessarily will be the best form. As these plants grow on branches of trees, let the house be low in the angle, so that the plants, whether in pots or baskets, or on logs of wood, will all be near to the glass. The house, then, must be span-roofed and low. The next consideration is the aspect. We find the best is for the roof to fall due east and west; then the lengthway of the house will, of course, be north and south. There are seve ral substantial reasons why this aspect is to be preferred. In the first place, the heat and light of the sun are more equalised. In the cold mornings of early spring the sun will sooner give light and heat on the east side, and will be at noon in such a position that his beams will be slanting to the angle of the roof, whilst in the afternoon his power to give light and heat will be considerably prolonged. Every plant in the house will thus have its due share of light and heat. During the hot months of May, June, July, and August, the shade or blind can be let down on the morning side of the house, drawn up at noon, and let down on the afternoon side just as the sun shines; thus giving the plants all the light possible, and at the same time protecting them, their leaves, and delicate flowers, from the burning rays of the sun. Now, suppose the house was a lean-to, as it is termed, that is, a glazed shed facing the south and leaning against a wall on the north, the sun would shine on this house with the greatest power in the middle of the day; the shade must be put on all over the roof at once, and for four or five or more hours the plants would be in comparative darkness. We think that every reader will perceive that the span-roofed, low, east-and-west house, must be, in theory, the best, and we have proved it so in practice.

A question may now arise, shall there be any upright glass at the sides or ends of the house? We say decidedly and advisedly-no! So to place glass is an unnecessary and, therefore, an useless expense. The walls ought to rise high enough to allow a comfortable walk and head room. The rafters and lights ought to be fixed, and to give air a few openings may be easily contrived in the highest part of the house, and a few sliding panels near the floor in the walls. This cold air ought to flow in over the hot pipes, and to become heated before it comes in contact with the plants. In summer, when there is no heat in the pipes, the external air is naturally so warm that no injury will accrue to the plants by admitting it into the house without being artificially heated. Before we quit our description of what we opine to be the best kind of house for these singular plants, we would direct our readers' attention to the desirableness, nay, almost absolute necessity, of having more than one for them. However small the collection may be, there will be some that require more heat than the others. The orchids of South America, such as Mr. Skinner saw growing, will flourish far better in a house of moderate temperature than in a house highly heated. This house we would distinguish by the name of "the Mexican house."

The orchids, natives of Java, Borneo, Singapore, the Phillipine Islands, and the hot jungles of Hindostan, require, on the other hand, a much higher temperature and close moist atmosphere. The house for these plants we would designate "the East Indian house." By having two houses a considerable number of advantages will be secured, although it might appear, at first sight, that in these countries from being always warm the vegetation must always be progressing; yet such, as is well known, is not the case. Plants in the hottest countries have a season of rest, and that rest is induced not by cold, as with us, but by drought excessive and long continued. We obtain this rest to our orchids by cold and drought combined. The Indian tribes, as soon as they have made their growth for the year, where there are two houses, may be removed into the cooler or Mexican house, and that removal or change of temperature will harden their pseudo-bulbs, and concentrate the sap, causing them thereby to become more healthy, robust, and free to flower. Should any of the South American species require a little more heat, they could be conveniently removed into the Indian house to make their growth. The cooler house will also be useful to place any of the Indian species in when in flower, which change will considerably prolong their season of blooming. The two houses may join each other, divided by a partition either of brick or glass. We should prefer glass, as being neater and showing off the plants in both houses to greater advantage. The inside furnishing of the house, namely, the pipes and tanks, cistern for water, stages, and shelves, we must defer describing till next week.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

THE DAHLIA.-Frost has already, in some places, laid his blight upon this fine autumn flower, rendering them unsightly. It is almost a thing to be regretted that such fine flowers in perfect beauty should be blasted and blackened for ever in one night, requiring them to be cut down and consigned to the

* Pseudo-bulb. This term is used to distinguish those fleshy stems of orchids, which are something like bulbs, from the genuine bulbs, such as tulips or hyacinths for instance.

dunghill. We might here turn moralists, but we remember that on these themes our readers will rather look to the gentle, elegant pen of the authoress of "My Flowers." Our business is with the more dry and matter-of-fact part of practice. As soon as the frost has destroyed the flowers and leaves, take a spade and lift the roots gently up, taking care to be at such a distance as not to injure or cut the tubers; lift them up sufficiently to break off the young fibres. The reason why this ought to be done is to prevent those fibres drawing up any more sap, and by that prevention to stop any more growth which might take place, if the weather should continue open and mild, as it sometimes does till the end of December. Cut away all the decidedly destroyed branches, leaving the green leaves and shoots that may be uninjured a while longer. To prevent any frost from reaching the tubers, our practice is to cover up, about a foot diameter, the roots with some dry coal-ashes. By using this precaution there is no danger of any frosts that may come for the next month or six weeks doing any harm. This is better than taking up the roots immediately after the stems are frost bitten ; the bulbs or tubers become more firm, and will keep better during the winter.

AURICULAS, POLYANTHUSES, CARNATIONS, and PicoTEES, require plenty of air daily, and but little if any water. See the two preceding numbers for more full directions.

VERBENAS.-Cuttings in store pots must be placed under glass now, to shelter them from frost and wet. Rare varieties in beds and borders should be pruned in, taken up, and potted, and treated the same as cuttings.

CINERARIAS. Some of the more forward may be removed into the greenhouse. The treatment for them there may be seen in the proper department of our pages. The rest will require strict attention to keep the frost from them, as they are very tender. Two degrees of frost will injure, and four degrees, or a temperature of 28°, will destroy the leaves entirely. So be particular, and keep them well covered up. Some might inquire, Why not place them in the greenhouse at once? But we would reply that a cineraria will thrive and keep healthy and more clear from insects in a pit or frame, than on the dry shelves or stage of a greenhouse.

RANUNCULUS. Our amateur and cottage friends who cultivate this charming flower must not forget to prepare their bed for them; for though we do not recommend planting the best kinds till February or March, yet it is desirable to prepare the bed now. Some varieties may be planted at once, more especially the Turban, scarlet, yellow, and black. We will enlarge a little next week on these flowers. T. APPLEBY.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

RED BEET. This being the season for taking up and storing this useful vegetable, care must be taken that neither the tap-root nor any of the strong roots should be injured or broken in removing, as not only would the colour of the vegetable be thereby spoiled, but its flavour as well as the esteemed saccharine properties of the beet would be lost. The leaves should not be cut, but twisted off when drawn up by the hand. Store the roots in a cool shed or cellar, or in a heap out of doors, covered with a coat of earth,

The practice of Mr. Beaton and Mr. Appleby differ in the means employed, but in their object they perfectly coincide-ripening the tubers before storing.-ED. C. G.