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a sensible and practical view of the by the inferences to be gleaned from condition, character, and disposition them, we must consider the Russians of the population; and is happy in a contented and flourishing nation, his detection and indication of na. likely to make the larger strides in tional peculiarities. He does not, civilization that they are unimpeded like the majority of travellers in by revolutionary agitation. Pro. Russia, enter the country with a pagandists meet little encouragesettled determination 10 behold ment amongst the loyal and lightthing from the White Sea 10 the hearted subjects of the autocrat. Black, but oppression and cruelty on “ We have often observed at Moscow,” the one hand, slavery and suffering says Mr. Erman, “ birch trees hewn upon the other. He does not come for fencing, yet still alive in the horito a premature decision, that be. zontal position, and throwing out cause Russia is ruled by an abso- shoots.

The great

distinction of lute monarch, all happiness, prosperity, the vegetable nature in this region is and justice are essentially banished its tenacity of life; and singularly from the land. It is really pleasant enough, the same capability of exto find a deviation from ihe established isting under oppression, and of routine of books about Russia. These withstanding stubbornly every revoare now nearly all concocted upon one lutionizing influence, is here the and the same plan. The recipe is as characteristic of man also. The ear exact as any in Mrs. Rundell; and is of the stranger is sure, at every turn as conscientiously adhered by of conversation, to catch the sounds literary cooks, as that great artist's · Kak ni bud, (no matter how), invaluable precepts are by knights with which the Russians are used to and ladies of the ladle. Tyranny, give expression to their habitual in. misery, and the knout are the chief difference, and renunciation of all ingredients of the savoury dish. care.

Notwithstanding the We are shown a nation of cretins, great variety of condition which the crushed under the boot-heel of an im- population exbibit, everything has perial ogre; whilst a selfish, servile the stamp of nationality, and an aristocracy salaam their admiration, obstinate adherence to established and catch greedily at the titles and usage may be plainly recognised as a gewgaws thrown to them as a sop fundamental principle. Some foreiga by their terrible master. This is the customs, indeed, are adopted from substance of the mess, which, being strangers residing at Moscow; but handsomely garnished with lying they, are, at the same time, so changed anecdotes of horrible cruelties prac- as to be assimilated to the national tised upon the unfortunate population, manners. Russian nationality may is deemed sufficiently dainty to set be compared to a river, which receives before the public, and is forth with other streams without changing its devoured as genuine and natritive name ; or, still better, to a living food by the large body of simpletons organism, which, while devouring who take type_for a guarantee of every variety of food, continues still veracity. Mr. Erman despises the the same.” common trick and claptrap resorted

It was

on the 29th of July that to by vulgar writers. Avoiding Mr. Erman, who travelled in comanecdotage, and abuse of the powers pany with the Norwegian professor that be, he gives, in brief shrewd para- Hansteen, left Moscow and moved graphs, glimpses of Muscovite cha- eastwards, passing through a proracter and feelings, which clearly prove ductive country, strewn with populous the people of that vast empire to and comfortable villages. Ai Pokrof be far happier, more prosperous, and his first halting-place, his chamber more practically free than the inha- walls were adorned with rude carvings bitants of many countries who boast and paintings, whose subjects were of liberty because anarchy has re- taken from the events of 1812, and placed good government. Judging represented the valiant deeds of the less from any distinct assertions or peasantry. Buikova, a village forty arguments advanced in these volumes, miles east of Moscow was the farthest than from their general tenor, and point to which the French penetrated.

“ It

Their invasion has left but a faint position with the elegant luxuries and impression upon the popular mind in superfluities of extreme European Russia—even in Moscow, which suf- civilization. The clumsy carvings of fered so much at their hands. Con. Uralian peasants are found in the flagrations have been common occur- next warerooms to the fragile and rences in that city, and the inhabitants fashionable masterpieces of a Parisian are accustomed to be burned oui. milliner. The chief part of the goods We read of seven such events, from come from great distances. Amongst the thirteenth to the beginning of the the important articles of traffic are nineteenth century, in all of which tea from China, horse-hides from the destruction was complete, or very Tatary, iron bars from Siberia, shawls nearly so. The fire of 1812 spared of camel's-down from Bokhara. The many of the stone churches, on whose Bok harians also import large quanti. towers “ the Mahomedan crescent ties of cotton, partiy raw and partly rises above the cross, a monument of spun. This is one of the principal earlier revolutions. The yoke of the objects of trade at Nijni. ConcernTartars was so lasting and oppressive, ing the origin of this useful subthat later events of a similar kind stance, curious fables were current in seem comparatively unimportant; Russia not quite a century ago. and even the French invasion is here appears to me certain,” says Mr. Erthought little of, being usually com- man, “ that the story of the zoophytic pared with the irruptions of the plant called Baránez, or lamb-plant Pechenegues and that of the Poles in (formed as a diminutive from Barán, later times, but never set on a level a sheep),, originated in some embelwith the Tartar domination.” The lished account of the cotion plant. French have little prestige in Russia. Herberstein relates it at full length Whatever respect they previously and unchanged, just as he had heard enjoyed there, was completely annihi. it. • There has been seen, near 10 lated by the pitiful figure they cut in the Caspian Sea, a seed, rather larger the Moscow campaign; retreating, as and rounder than that of a melon, they did, a ragged, disorderly, frost. from which, when set in the ground, bitten remnant, before a swarm of is produced something similar 10 armed peasants and irregular horse. lamb, of the altitude of five palms, And Muscovite sign-painters and saint- having a very fine fleece, &c., &c. The carvers decorate village walls with epi- German edition of Herberstein (Ba. sodes of the disastrous overthrow of an sel, 1563) adds that the Baránez has army, probably the most powerful and a head, eyes, ears, and all the limbs, really efficient ever got together. Any like a sheep. But it mentions cornotion entertained by the Russians rectly the very fine fleece which the of French invincibility was as com people of that country commonly make pletely dissipated in that country by use of to pad their caps withal. This the events of 1812, as it was in Ger- is the ordinary use which the Tatar many by the ensuing, and scarcely less tribes in general make of cotton at important, campaign of 1813.

the present day.” The fair at Nijni Passing Murom, where a sort of lasts two months, and brings together Yankee tradition exists of a “ robber- six hundred thousand persons of difnightingale,” which entices travellers ferent nations and tribes, or about into the woods by its song, and then thirty-three times the number of the kills them by the power of its notes, stationary population. It produces a Mr. Erman reached Nijni Novgorod at large revenue to the imperial treasury, the moment of the great annual fair. -The letting of the wooden booths, and The mixture of European and Asiatic of two thousand five hundred and produce and manufactures gives the twenty-two stone storerooms, (to Russian fairs an appearance singularly each of which latter is attached a striking to the foreigner's eye. Things chamber for the owner of the goods the most opposite are there brought to live in), alone yielding, so far back together. Obrasá, or Greek holy as 1825, nearly four hundred thousand images, amulets, and other objects rubles; whilst the population of the used in the solemnities of the Græco- government, or district, amounting 10 Russian church, are seen in juxta. nearly a million of souls, paid taxes



to the amount of fourteen millions of year or other limited period. Those rubles.

of the peasant class have to support Nijni Novgorod is the point of ren- themselves, whilst offenders of a dezvous for criminals from the western higher rank, and unused to manual provinces of the empire, condemned labour, have an allowance made them to Siberian exile. They arrive there by the government. In various places in small detachments, io pursue their Mr. Erman met with exiles, from some journey in large bodies. In the vici- of whom he obtained curious infornity of every post-honse along the mation. They are usually known by road is another building known as the the mild name of “the unfortunates,Ostrog or fort, which is merely a and are held in no particular dislavour large barrack divided into numerous by the natives, with whose families small chambers, and sarrounded by a they intermarry. By a remarkable fence of palisades, where ihe convicts enactment of the Russian latv, serfs, are lodged upon the journey. From when transported to Siberia, become various passages scattered through in all respects as free as the peasants Mr. Erman's book, it appears that in western Europe. Mr. Erman rethese Siberian exiles are by no means fers to this with strong approval, and so badly treated as has frequently attributes 10 it the happiest results. been stated and believed. In most “ I have often,” he says, “ heard intelinstances the punishment derives its ligent and reflecting Russians mention, severity less from any painful toil or an almost inexplicable paradox, cruel discipline imposed upon them, that the peasants condemned to bethan from the rigidity of the climate, come settlers, ali, without exception, the separation from friends, and the and in a very short time, change their mortal ennui those accustomed to habits and lead an exemplary life; civilization and society cannot but yet it is certain that the sense of the experience, whilst leading the mono- benefit conferred on them by the gift tonous life of a peasant or Cossack in of personal freedom is the sole cause regions as dreary as any the globe's of ihis conversion. Banishment sub. surface affords. The first caravan of servient to colonization, instead of prisoners encountered by Mr. Erman, close imprisonment, is, indeed, an at about a hundred versts beyond excellent feature in the Russian code ; Nijni, were well clothed and cared and though the substitution of forced for, and seemed neither dissatisfied labour in mines for the punishment of with their past journey, nor over- death may be traced back to Grecian whelmed with care about the future. example, yet the improving of the

With every train of them are seve- oflenders' condition by bestowing on ral wagons, drawn by post-horses, to him personal freedom, is an original carry the women and the old and as well as an admirable addition of a infirm men; the rest follow in pairs, Russian legislator.” It is of course in a long train, after the wagons, by the higher class of exiles that the escorted by a militia established in banishment is most severely felt; but the villages. It is but rarely that these live in the towns, that the sucone sees special offenders with fetters cour received from government may upon their legs during the march.” reach them the more easily, and subThe majority of tales circulated by mit, for the most part, with great romancing travellers, with reference equanimity to the startling change to Siberian exile, have little founda. from the luxury of Moscow or St. tion save in the imagination of the Petersburg, to the dullness and simnarrators. Amongst these fictions is plicity of Tobolsk, anu even of worse to be reckoned the statement that places. Some of them have to do certain classes of the banished are penance in church for a certain time compelled to pass their lives in hunt- after their arrival, and a portion of ing ihe sable, and other animals. The these continue the practice when it is great majority of the delinquents are no longer compulsory. At Beresov, condemned only to settle in Siberia; a town in western Siberia, which Mr. and when hard labour in the Uralian Erman passed through on an mines, and in certain manufactories, sion north wards froin Tobolsk, the is superadded, it is generally for a oral chronicles of the inhabitants


furnish curious details of the nume- katerinburg, the northern limit of rous illustrious exiles who have there their residence, gives curious partiended their days. Mencbikoff, the culars. They are the only aboriginal well-known favourite of Peter I., was Siberian tribe whose mode of life one of these.

“ After his political regularly alternates from the nomadic extinction, he prepared himself, by to the fixed. Their winters are passed devout penitence, for his natural de- in permanent villages of wooden huts, cease. He worked with his own erected usually upon the skirt of a hands in erecting the little wooden forest. But when spring approaches, church, now fallen to decay, which they collect their focks and herds, stands thirty or forty feet above the strap hair tent-cloths upon their bank of the Sosva, at the southern saddles, and are off to the plains. extre:nity of the town: he then They appear to live upon horseback, served in it as bell-ringer, and was and are indolent, indocile, and useless finally buried by the grateful inhabi- out of the saddle. The only thing the tants of Beresov, iromediately before men do, is to drive home the mares at the door of the building.” It was milking-time; all other domestic toil here, at Beresov, that Mr. Erman fell is left to the women. And although in with a number of unlucky conspi- grass abounds in the summer pastures, rators, who had lost fortune, rank, hay is unknown amongst them. The and home, by their association in a catule sustain life in winter as best recent abortive revolutionary attempt. they may, on stunted or decayed herAmongst them were a M. Gorski, at bage, sought under the snow and one time a count and general of ca- gathered on the dunghills. Fermented valry, and the ex-chieftains Focht mare's milk is the favourite drink of and Chernilov. They usually wore the Bashkirs, who live chiefly upon the costume of the country, but upon mutton and fish, and upon the fruit holidays they donned European coats, of the bird-cherry (Prunus padus) in order to display the vestiges of the kneaded into a sort of cake. In the orders which had once been sewed upon chase they make use of hawks, which them. A curious instance of vanity, they are particularly skilful in traintraceable, perhaps, to a desire to dis- ing: The smaller 'species of these tinguish themselves from persons birds are used to take hares, whilst condemned to the same punishment the greater will strike foxes, and even for crimes of a more disgraceful wolves. The roving careless life of the Dature.

Bashkirs possesses a peculiar charm, In the streets of Yekaterinburg, the admitted even by the civilized Rusfirst town of importance after crossing sians; and it is with no good will that, the Asian boundary, parties of exiles are on the return of winter, the tribes rea frequent spectacle; the number pass- enter their settled habitations. “They ing ihrough in a year being estimated approach them with reluctance, and beat five thousand, or about two-fifths of lieve that Shaitan, or the evil spirit, the annual export of convicts to has taken up his abode in the huts Siberia, as stated by Mr. Stepanov, that oppress them with such a sense whose statement, however, Mr. Erman of restraint. The men accordingly seems disposed to consider exagger- remain at some distance from the ated, The detachments are usually settlement, and send the women forguarded by Kosaks of the Ural, and ward, armed with staves, with which by a company of Bashkir militia. they strike the door of every hut, These Uralian Kosaks are well uni. utiering loud imprecations; and it is formed, armed, and mounted, and not till they have made the rounds enjoy the same privileges as the with their noisy exorcisms, that the Kosaks of the Don. They are allowed men ride forward at full speed and an immunity from every impost, but with terrific shouts, to banish the are bound to devote themselves to dreaded demon from his lurkingthe public service. Touching the place." The chief weapon of these Bashkirs, another irregular and half. Bedouins of the north is the same savage militia, serving to swell the which so forcibly excited Captain ranks of Russia's enormous army, Mr. Dalgetty's risibility upon his visit to Erman, who made some stay at Ye. the Children of the Mist. But al



though in these days of Paixhans and was the commencement of October, percussion, bows and arrows cer- the period of transition from summer tainly appear rather anomalous, they to winter, and the traveller's entrance are by no means contemptible weapons into the town was rendered memorin the hands of some of the Siberian able by a heavy fall of snow—“white tribes. Of this Mr. Erman had flies,” as the postillions called ihe abundant opportunity to convince flakes, which they beheld with much himself, especially when his ramble pleasure. Their satisfaction was pronorthwards from Tobolsk brought bably owing to the fact that in him amongst the Ostyaks of the river Siberia the coldest part of the year is Obi. The ordinary hunting weapons the most favourable for travelling, of these people are bows six feet long, a matter of interest to people of of very slight curve, and from which their profession. But the moment of four-feet arrows are discharged with transition, whilst the struggle lasts murderous effect. Much practice and between summer and winter, when strength are required to draw these snow encumbers the ground, and bows; and our scientific traveller, frost has not yet hardened it, is known, who, not having taken the necessary as well as the similar period at the precaution of shielding the left arm close of winter, as “the time of the with a piece of horn, from the recoil unroading,” (spoiling of the roads ); of the string, had been unable to and the Russians have even manudraw his bow to more than one-third factured a verb “ to be unroaded." of the arrow's length, was not a little The snow obstructs wheeled carriages, astounded to see an Ostyak pigmy, and forbids the use of the sledge ; and, with sore eyes and a sickly aspect, unless peremptorily compelled to move send a blunt arrow one hundred and forward, the Russian (merchants—the sixty feet, and strike the object aimed most experienced of Siberian travellers at, the stem of a larch, near its sum. -await, in some convenient resting. mit, fully sixty feet from the ground. place, the hardening of the winter Blunt arrows, headed with flattened road. From Mr. Erman's account, a iron balls, are used to kill sables and better place than Tobolsk could squirrels, that the skin may not be scarcely be found, in those wild regions, injured; the sharp ones are a settler wherein to pass a few weeks of comfor any quadruped the country pro- pulsory inaction. Nevertheless, and duces.

although cordially received by the After many days' journey through governor-general, Velyaminov, from Tatar villages of wooden huts, and whom, and from other Russian offitowns that are little better, the first cers, he got much usesul information, view of Tobolsk, obtained some miles our traveller was impatient to be off. before reaching the place, is quite im. He had a pet scheme in view. From posing; and the traveller, who might the very commencement of the journey think he had got a few stages beyond he had planned an excursion to the civilization, is cheered and encouraged mouth of the Obi, within the Arctic by the sight of church-towers, lofty circle. To this he was partly induced monasteries, and well-built houses. by the desire of tracing certain magIn vain does he seek 'an inn. Such netic lines, and partly by “the alluring things are unknown in Siberia ; and, prospect of enjoying, on the northern if he bas no acquaintance in the town, part of the Obi, the first undisturbed he must apply to the police-master, intercourse with the aboriginal poswho recommends him to the hospital. sessors of the land, where they are ity of an inhabitant, by whom he is little changed by foreign influence.” made welcome during his stay, with. Accordingly, towards the middle of Noout demand for remuneration, al- vember, the drifting ice upon the Irtuish though, if proffered, it will sometimes having united into a solid sheet, Mr. be accepted. In this manner Mr. Erman joyfully made final preparations Erman and his companions, were ac- for his journey 10 Obdorsk. They were commodated in the upper story of a few, and soon completed. A Kosak well-built wooden house; and here guide ,and intrepreter, a fur dress, a their progress eastward was arrested copper kettle, bread and ham, salted by the character of the weather. It salmon and caviare, were stowed in a

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