THE

MONTHLY REVIEW,

For SEPTEMBER, 1823.

ART. I. Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years 1819, 20, 21, and 22. By John Franklin, Capt. R. N., F. R. S., and Commander of the Expedition. With an Appendix on various Subjects relating to Science and Natural History. Illustrated by numerous Plates and Maps. Published by Authority of the Earl Bathurst. 4to. pp. 784. 47. 4s. Boards. Murray. 1823.

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UMEROUS Occasions have lately called on us to pay a tribute to the enterprize and the science of our countrymen, who leave no part of this terraqueous globe unvisited, but attempt to discover whatever is unknown, and to overcome any difficulties which have hitherto been insuperable. The public anxiety begins to increase respecting the fate of the intrepid Capt. Parry and his companions, in their renewed endeavor to force the barriers of the Polar Sea: but we must yet wait some time for the interesting intelligence from them which we are expecting; and in the meanwhile our curiosity receives an alleviating gratification, by the publication of the report of Capt. Franklin's hazardous effort to reach the frozen ocean by land, in which it was partly contemplated to effect a meeting with those who were urging a similar fortune over the bosom of the waters. Had the expedition here recorded been undertaken merely to gratify an individual's thirst for knowlege or for fame, its present unvarnished history would still have roused the attention and excited the sympathies of every generous mind: but, when viewed in combination with the series of national efforts to explore the arctic latitudes, and to ascertain the existence of a communication between two great oceans, it cannot fail to awaken the most lively and patriotic sensations. We hasten, therefore, to lay before our readers some notices of a narrative which has such urgent claims on their regard, and which the enlightened portion of the community will peruse with the mingled feelings of commiseration and applause.

The main object of Capt. Franklin's mission was to explore the northern coast of America, from the mouth of the Copper VOL. CII. Mine

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Mine River eastward, and the purport of his instructions was to determine the latitudes and longitudes; to solicit advice and information from the winter-officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, who were enjoined by their employers to co-operate with him; to adopt such a route as, under all circumstances, he might conceive to be the most eligible; to leave conspicuous signals where any chance of Capt. Parry falling in with his track could be imagined; to keep a meteorological diary; to neglect no opportunities of observing and noting the dip and variation of the magnetic needle, and the intensity of the magnetic force; to ascertain whether the aurora borealis exerts any influence on the needle, or its appearance is accompanied with noise; and to suggest any observations illustrative of its cause, or of the laws to which it is subjected. Lieutenants Back and Hood, of the navy, were appointed to assist in making the observations; and to take drawings of the land, of the natives, and of objects of natural history, particularly such as Dr. Richardson, physician and naturalist to the expedition, might point out as most deserving of their attention. By direction of the Lords of the Admiralty, the requisite stores and instruments were put on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship, Princess of Wales, which was to convey the expedition to York Factory.

On the 23d of May, 1819, the party embarked at Gravesend as the vessel and her consorts, the Eddystone and Wear, were getting under weigh: but, owing to the prevailing easterly wind, they did not reach Stromness, in Orkney, till the 3d of June. Here they tried their instruments, and made some nautical observations: Dr. Richardson was occupied in collecting and examining the marine plants which abound on the shores; and Mr. Hood and Mr. Back made sketches of the most picturesque scenes within their reach, Capt. Franklin, who found that he might have occasion for boatmen, took great pains to make his intentions known among the Orcadians: but, with much difficulty, he procured only four; and they stipulated to be sent home from Fort Chipewyan, free of expence, and to receive their pay till their arrival. I was much amused,' says the Captain, with the extreme caution these men used before they would sign the agreement; they minutely examined all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to the prospect of return. Such caution' on the part of the northern mariners forms a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless manner in which an English seamen enters upon any enterprize, however hazardous, without

inquiring,

inquiring, or desiring to know, where he is going, or what he is going about.'

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Proceeding on their voyage on the 16th, the ships were soon launched into the expanse of the Atlantic, when the Commander furnished his officers and men with their instructions. During the remainder of the month, an obstinate wind from N. W. and a heavy sea greatly impeded their progress: but their advance westward was more accelerated in the course of July; and on the 25th of that month they opened Davis's Straits, and spoke the Andrew Marvel, whale-ship, but received no tidings of Capt. Parry. In order to steer clear of ice, they were now occasionally obliged to deviate from the direct line of their course. A register-thermometer, let down to the supposed depth of 650 fathoms, and a wellcorked bottle, fastened to the line at 200 fathoms above the lead, indicated a lowering of the temperature from 52° at the surface to 40° 5' at the bottom, and to 41° at the depth to which the bottle had descended. This experiment,' observes the author, 'in shewing the water to be colder at a great depth than at the surface, and in proportion to the increase of the descent, coincides with the observations of Captain Ross and Lieutenant Parry, on their late voyage to these seas, but is contrary to the results obtained by Capt. Buchan and myself, on our recent voyage to the north, between Spitzbergen and Greenland, in which sea we invariably found the water brought from any great depth to be warmer than that at the surface.' May not the difference be owing to submarine currents, of a different temperature from that of the mass which they traverse? - In navigating the high latitudes, the proximity of ice may often be announced, before it is seen, by a strict and hourly attention to the decrease of temperature at sea. One of the largest icebergs, which the vessels encountered, was ascertained to be 149 feet in height; and it is here properly remarked, that these congealed masses are fre quently magnified through a hazy atmosphere, and their di mensions accordingly exaggerated.

On the morning of August 7. the island of Resolution was indistinctly seen through the mist: but, as the fog became more dense, the Princess of Wales repeatedly struck on the rocky cliffs, and leaked so much that the crew were not only exhausted with working at the pumps, but for some time anticipated destruction. By renewing their exertions, however, on the following day, and inserting felt and oakum in the leaks, they perceived in the evening that the pumps required to be used only at intervals of ten minutes. The Wear, meantime, had disappeared; and the most serious apprehen

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sions

sions were entertained for her safety.-Early on the 12th, as the two remaining ships were abreast of the Upper Savage island, the Esquimaux inhabitants came around them in canoes to barter, and evinced considerable cunning in making their bargains.

Their principal commodities were, oil, sea-horse teeth, whalebone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots, dear-skins and horns, and models of their canoes; and they received in exchange small saws, knives, nails, tin-kettles, and needles. It was pleasing to behold the exultation and to hear the shouts of the whole party, when an acquisition was made by any one; and not a little ludicrous to behold the eagerness with which the fortunate person licked each article with his tongue, on receiving it, as a finish to the bargain, and an act of appropriation. They in no instance emitted this strange practice, however small the article; the needles even passed individually through the ceremony. The women brought imitations of men, women, animals, and birds, carved with labour and ingenuity out of sea-horse teeth. The dresses, and the figures of the animals, were not badly executed, but there no attempt at the delineation of the countenances; and most of figures were without eyes, ears, and fingers, the execution of which would, perhaps, have required more delicate instruments than they possess. The men set most value on saws; kuttee-swabak, the name by which they distinguish them, was a constant cry. Knives were held next in estimation. An old sword was bartered from the Eddystone," and I shall long remember the universal burst of joy on the happy man's receiving it. It was delightful to witness the general interest expressed for individual acquisitions. There was no desire shewn by any one to over-reach his neighbour, or to press towards any part of the ship where a bargain was making, until the person in possession of the place had completed his exchange and removed; and if any article happened to be demanded from the outer canoes, the men nearest assisted willingly in passing the thing across.'

was the

August 19., in the evening, the ships passed Digges's island, the termination of Hudson's Straits; where the Eddystone parted company, being bound to Moose Factory. A harassing north wind prevented the Princess of Wales, for some days, from turning the end of Mansfield, and threatened to entangle her among the Sleepers, a islands: but a favorable gale at length enabled her to shape the Sleepers, a dangerous chain of her course across Hudson's Bay, the variation of the needle decreasing very rapidly. On the 30th, she came to an anchor

York Flats, where the Wear had arrived before her, after a very narrow escape from shipwreck.

When he had conferred with Governor Williams and the gentlemen in the Company's service, Capt. Franklin resolved to make the best of his way to their post at Cumberland House, which he still hoped to reach before the winter commenced:

the

the Governor furnishing him with an excellent boat and steersman, and the four Örkney mariners, with two attendants, forming the remainder of the crew. While the equipments were in preparation, the officers had leisure to examine York Factory, the chief depôt of the Hudson's Bay Company; and we are told that the principal buildings, in the form of a square, are placed on the west bank of the Hayes River, and in a flat swampy soil, of alluvial clay. The natural wood consists of willows, poplars, larch, spruce, and birch: but the unceasing demand for fuel has bared the country to some distance from the fort. Immense flocks of geese resort to the neighbourhood, on the approach of winter, and are hunted for a stock of provision during the cold season. A few Indians, belonging to the tribe of Swampy Crees, still frequent the establishment; and several of them were encamped on the outside of the stockade, in their moose-skin tents. They had a squalid appearance, and, like other tribes, were suffering from the combined effects of hooping-cough and measles. Here the weather proved very unfavorable for celestial observations; and a succession of fresh breezes prevented the determination of the magnetic force. The position of the Factory was found to be in lat. 57° 00' 03" N. and long. 92° 26' W. Most of our readers may be aware that the rivalship between the Hudsons's Bay and the North West Companies had degenerated into acts of hostility: but Capt. Franklin very wisely resolved to take no part in their quarrels, and to receive counsel and assistance from the agents of either as opportunity might dictate.

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The boat having been completed on the 9th of September, the expedition was again in motion, though under no very flattering auspices; for the destined stores and provisions were too bulky for the stowage that could be spared, and were consequently curtailed: while the party were fated to comnience a tedious progress up Hayes, Steel, and Hill Rivers, to cross the Swampy Lake, and to hold dreary converse with other lakes and rivers, being often drawn or tracked by their own people, harnessed to a rope, on wet, slippery, or uneven ground; or having to struggle with rapids, shoals, and portages, frequently advancing only a few miles in the course of a day. We premise these untoward circumstances, generally, that we may absolve our readers from attending to their painful recurrence, and leave room for noting a great diversity of incident and observation. The night-lodging was in a tent on shore, and the only bedding consisted of a buffalo's robe and a blanket. The general bearing of the course was S. W., and the route was regularly surveyed by Messrs. Back and Hood. B 3 Several