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to cause them to seek their plea- mercy could not soften, and jussures out of doors. Home is the tice could not restrain. A raging, only place they neglect; it is a place yociferating gang of murderers, only for their necessities : they must men and women, brandished their sleep there, -and the tradesmen pikes to destroy the house and must transact their business there: family of an aristocrat, who had a bed, a table, and a few chairs are himself escaped from their fury, therefore wanted; and a small room Au appeal to principle and feeling or two, uncarpeted and bare, must was out of the question at such a be hired. I speak, of course, of time, and to such beings; but a the middle and inferior classes. profligate pleasantry supplied the But all that is inspiring and com- suitable application. Why, pull fortable, they seek out of doors; down his house ?'--exclaimed the and all that they pride themselves intercessor, mounted on a chairin being able to procure is in the 'it is his landlord's:—why kill his shape of decoration and amuse, wife ?—she is the public's :-why ment.
massacre his children ?- they are “ The Palais Royal has grown probably some of your own.'—A to be what it is, out of these ha- yell of merriment broke out from bits and dispositions, and now pre- the congregation of furies, and sents the most characteristic fea. laugh of vice proved, in this in. ture of Paris :-it is dissolute, gay, stance, a reprieve for the innocent. wretched, elegant, paltry, busy, “ The infamous duke of Orleans, and idle:-it suggests recollections to whom the palace belonged, here of atrocity, and supplies sights of expended his immense wealth in fascination :--it displays virtue and nursing, by means of the most hor. vice living on easy terms, and in rible immoralities, the Revolution, immediate neighbourhood with each of which he himself was the victim. other, Excitements, indulgences, The scenes that were acted here at and privations,--art and vulgarity, that time are not susceptible of -science and ignorance,--artful description :--the almost unboundconspiracies, and careless debau. ed revenues of this weak and wickcheries,-alt mingle here, forming ed prince, were directed, at the an atmosphere of various exhala- suggestion of the most abominable tions, a whirl of the most lively wretches, to every purpose of hu. images, a stimulating melange of man depravily, included within the what is most heating, intoxicating, opposite limits of sensual induland subduing.
gence and cold and cruel ambi“ The Palais Royal was the fo- tion. From hence issued out the cus of the Revolution: its coffee. ferocious mobs of poissardes, and houses, its theatres, its cellars, its blackguards, whose character and gambling-houses, its bagnios, pour- conduct form the history, for seed forth their living streams iuto veral years, of a nation calling its central space, to listen to the itself great. The day at length invitations of the orators, who in- came, when he who had never been cited the people to carry into effect but the creature of those whom he the tremendous plans organized fancied be guided was to perish by within its concealments.
the storm be had assisted to raise. here that a joke, or a nod, operat- Tve duke of Orleans was dragged ing on a loose, reckless, heartless to his death by the mobs who had rabble, was, in general, the man- been trained in his pay, and his date of torment and carnage,-and last journey was marked by an insometimes, by well-timed and for- cident truly French :—those who tunately directed obscenity and had partaken of the debaucheries falsehood, the instrument of dissi- and crimes of the Palais Royal, pating the fury of those whom stopped its owner, opposite to its well known gate, when he was on the crowd of sitters and standers his way to the fatal machine that gradually increases,-the buz of was to terminate his miseries and conversation swells to a noise,crimes ! They wished to read in his the cafés fill,--the piazzas become haggard countenance the emotions crowded,- the place assumes the caused by this sight, so pregnant look of intense and earnest avocawith intolerable recollections ;- tion,-yet the whirl and the rush they could not deny themselves the are of those who float and drift in indulgence of this extra barbarity; the vortex of pleasure, dissipation, they would not be deprived of the and vice. right of exulting over the fall of “ The shops of the Palais Royal guilt, in which they had deeply are brilliant: - they are all devoted participated !-- Are not these things either to toys, ornaments; er luxuwhich were not done in a corner, ries. Nothing can be imagined which twenty-six millions of men more elegant and striking than saw perpetrated as their public their numerous collections of or. acts, which powerfully influenced namental clock-cases :- they are the thinking, the habits, and the formed of the whitest alabaster, interests of Europe,--and have, and many of them present very inmore than any other circumstances, genious and fauciful devices. One, contributed to form the character for instance, that I saw, was a feof the age,-are they not the pub- male figure, in the garb and with lic monuments of France, as much the air of Pleasure,-hiding the as the pillars which she has erected, hours with a fold of her scanty draor the pictures which she has pery ;-one hour alone peeped out, stolen ? She vaunts of her public and that indicated the time of the places : the question is, what senti- day;--the mechanism of the works ments and recollections do they caused it to be succeeded by the chiefly excite? It is these that are next in succession. Others were to form hér glory,—for glory is an modelled after the most favourite estimate of the mind.
pictures and sculptures :-David's “ The Palais Royal is still a Horatii and Curiatii bad been very place where news and politics frequently copied. The beauty are discussed. There is in Paris, and variety of the snuff boxes, and what strikes an Englishman as an the articles in cut-glass,—the riba unusual number of persons, who bons and silks, with their exquisite 'seem loose from actual occupation, colours, the art of giving which is without indicating that they are not known in England, - the proabove it.' The period of my visit fusion and seductiveness of the to that capital, which was shortly Magazines des Gourmands,-are after the destruction of a govern- matchless. There are also several ment, the disbandment of an army, passages at the back of the place and the return of legions of pri. itself, all full of this sort of display, soners of war, was more than con- though of an inferior kind, and inmonly calculated to display this cluding the features of vice in more appearance, – but I apprehend, distinct deformity. Many of the from what I could learn, that it shops in these, are kept by small always exists. The crowds of the booksellers, who expose their wares Palais Royal are thus formed, and beyond their windows on stalls ;it puts on its air of bustling dissipa- and the mentioning of this fact intion, and lounging sensuality, at an duces me to notice here two circarly liour of the morning. The cunstances highly characteristic of chairs that are placed out under Paris, and indicative of its moral the trees are to be hired, with a and social state. newspaper, for a couple of sous a “ The first is the extreme proflipiece they are soon occupied : gacy of the books and prints that
are exposed for sale. The vilest should be observed reading the publications lie about every where, Spectator, or Boswell's Life of throwing in your face a grossness Johnson, or Pope's works-an which amounts rather to brutality appearance which would be deemtban mere sensuality.”
ed a phenomenon. The common “ United in view to this shame- classes of the French, therefore, ful feature, is one of another kind, are polished and conversable to a and their neighbourhood illustrates degree unknown in England :- the the national character. In France worst of it is, that, in the country you have no security against the of which I am writing, the people's existence of an evil, in the posses- courtesy and chattering, mean no. sion of what is commonly and thing : they do not prove the naturally opposed to it: the existence either of knowledge or French reconcile fineness with filth, of feeling ;-way, the truth is, they politeness with coarseness, honour prove the want of both. Where with falsehood. In like manner, words and forms are bona fide the shops that present the gross. indicators of their corresponding ness above alluded to are crowded sentiments, they will always be with elegant literature, placed out more sparingly employedthan evidently for nunierous purchasers. where this connection has been The best French classics, histories, broken. In like manner, there is poets, &c., are heaped on every a certain point of national character stall, and lie among the trash of and condition, at which reading political pamphlets, which prove will be very generally diffused nothing but that there is not a par- throughout the community, preticle of political understanding or cisely because it has little or no principle in all France. The good effect in producing earnestness of books must be purchased as well thinking on the interests and duties as the bad ones,--and in point of of life. fact, they are purchased. You “ To return now to the Palaix cannot walk three steps without Royal-It may, after this digres encountering a stall rich in litera. sion, be supposed to be the hour ture: the bridges and quays are of dinner; and the salons of the full of thens : the entrances of the restaurateurs are all full. In pro• palaces are hung round with the portion as the homes of the Pariwares of these itinerant venders, sians are uncomfortable in an Enfor in Paris, their notions of what glishman's estimation, their places may be termed the decorum of of public resort and refreshment elegance are not very troublesome;" have an air of enjoyment, abunthe passages to the courts of jus- dance, frankness, and congeniality, tice are markets for these commo- to which he has been utterly undities. The French then read a accustomed. From five to halfgood deal; and evidences that they past seven, crowds of both sexes do are every where apparent in pour into all the numerous recepParis. The females in the public tacles of this description, the insituations of trade are, all seen vitations to which hang forth so reading, -never working with their thick as to astonish the British needles. Even the poor girls, who stranger. The price charged within sit by stalls where toys are sold, for dinner, is specified on many of are generally occupied with a book the signs, and varies from twentywhen not engaged with a customer. five sous,-about one shilling, to I have looked over their shoulders, four franks,--above three. For and seen Madame de Genlis, Ma- these sums four or five dishes a dame Sevigné, Voltaire, Marmon- head are promised; half a bottle, tel, in their hands. This is just or a bottle of wine, a desert of as if, in London, the applewomen fruit, and bread ! at discretion.' The latter stipulation of this en- respect as in many others in Paris; gagement is no trifling one; for it there is no sensibility for any thing is known that a Frenchman's dis- beyond the action itself,—there is cretion, in the article of bread, is an utter ignorance that the highest not of the soberest kind.
sense of value prompts restraint, “The superior restaurateurs, how- concealment, and precaution,ever, specify nothing :--and here there is a thorough indifference both the supply and the serving-up tor what cannot be sensually are of the most elegant description. enjoyed. Can a woman lose her Casts from the exquisite antiques virtue by dining in this promis. in the Louvre stand in the niches, cuous assemblage ?-can we better -lamps, with beautiful shades, shew our regard for women, than throw a noble light on the tables,- by making them our inseparable the waiters are active, and Ma- companions ?--where would they dame, the mistress, sits in her find a compensation for the pleasplendid recess, as a superintend- sures of which you would deprive ing divinity, decorated, stately, yet them?- These would be the quesgracious; her looks full of the con- tions which a Frenchman would sciousness of her sex and station, put, if he heard you object to the her manner welcoming, polished, practice in question. and adroit. In the artifices of “ The advance of the evening cookery, and all the seductions of throws out still more prominently the table, the French are adepts:- the native and most peculiar feabothing can be more unfounded tures of the Palais Royal. When than the common idea in England, the numerous windows of its im. that they are comparatively tem- mense mass of building are lighted perate in this respect. Their va- up, and present to the eye, conTiety of dishes tempts the appetite, templating tirem from the dark and their rich sauces apply themselves deserted ground in the center, a årresistibly to the palate: instead burning exterior, leading the ima. of eating less meat, because they gination to the lively scenes within, take more soup than the Englisli, perhaps a more impressive specthey add the additional sonp to a tacle is not to be found in the much larger repast of meat than is world. From the foundations of commonly made in England. A the building, foods of light stream little delicate looking woman, will up, and illuminate crowds that think it no violation to say, 'j'ai make their ingress and egress to mangé pour quatré,"--and really, and from the cellars, that are places both females and men apply them- both of amusement and refreshselves with a determination, dex. mient:--here there are dancing terity, and carelessness of obser- dogs, blind men, who play on mu. vation, to the contents of their sical instruments, ballad-singers, numerous dishes, which, in a coun- petite plays, and the game of dotry where the secret is less known minos.' The tables are crowded how to redeem by manner the with men and women,-wives mioessential grossness of things, would gle with prostitutes - tradesmen constitute downright gormandizing. with sharpers: the refreshments
“ The appearance of ladies sit- are all of a light nature; nothing ting among crowds of men in these like intoxication is seen, and there public rooms startles the English is no very gross breach of decoruin visitor, as a custom that trenches in behaviour. 1on the seclusion that he is inclined " It is very certain, that if there to think necessary to the preser- were any similar places of resort in vation of the niost valuable female London, such abominable conduct qualities, in the tenderness of their would prevail among them that beauty. It is, however, in this they would beconie" insufferable
nuisances; - whereas, in Paris, the causes of which are, that their there is nothing seen painfully to women of the town are less a pecuoffend the eye, and this is enough liar class than those of England, and to satisfy the Parisians that they that the quiet and comfort of their ought not to shock the mind. But homes are less sacredly preserved, the truth is, that grossness of con. and fondly esteemed. duct is the natural and becoming “ Above the cellars and the barrier that stands between virtue shops of the Palais Royal, there and vice,-it proves that the two are the elegant Cafés, the common are kept totally distinct; that the and licensed gambling houses and partizans of the latter feel them- bagnios, and, still higher, the selves proscribed, rejected, dis- abodes of the guilty, male and owned, by the respectable. They feinale, of every description. The thus carry with them the brand of first mentioned (the cafés) are in their infamy, -the good shudder fact brilliant temples of luxury :-at it, and avoid them,-they dis- on entering them for the first time, gust, instead of alluring,—they one is almost struck back by their excite a horror wbich.counteracts glare of decoration and enjoyment, the temptations to licentiousness. Ladies and gentlemen in their It is a sign that the virtue of a colours, and statues in their white. nation is spurious and debased, not ness; and busy waiters, and painted that its vice is scanty and uu- walls, and sparkling delicacies of aggravated, when its manners fail every kind, are mingled, and restrongly to mark the distinction peated, and extended in appearbetween the worthy and the repro- ance to infinity, by numerous mire bate. Where morals are generally rors, wbich add vastness to eleloose, where principles are un- gance, and the effect of a crowd settled, and duties ill-understood, to the experience of accommodaand worse practised, the most tion. In one of these, the Café vicious will assume a companion- des milles Colonnes-(so called beable decorum of behaviour; for cause its columps are reflected in they will feel that they are not glasses till they become thousands) much out of the common way: -a priestess of the place presides, and, being on terms of familiarity with even more than the usual and communion with all around pomp of such persops. She is a them, their iniquity will help to fine woman, and admits the stare form a generally debased standard, of her visitors as a part of the instead of remaining distinct and entertainment which they bave a odious, as a contrast to what is right to expect. For a mioute or pure and valuable. This is the two she reads, holding the book true secret of what is termed the delicately at arm's length, and superior decency of Paris in some simpering as if to herself at its tespects :--it cannot be said to contents, in the consciousness that exist in any one instance of supe- she is at least regarded by tifty riority in what is good ;-it is not eyes :--- then, with a look of official to be found in a closer regard to dignity, she receives a customer's the nuptial contract, in a higher money from one of the waiters, and sense of what is bouourable in daintily dips her pen into a burtransactions between man and man, nished ink-stand, ---after which she or in abstinence from sensual indul. drops the necessary memorandum gences. No, in each and all of on the paper, gracefully displaying these respects, the French are no- her finely-shaped hand, and exquitoriously less strict than the En- sitely white kid gloves. Occaglish :--but their prostitutes are sionally, one of the gentlemen in the better behaved, and their public coffee-roum sits down by her side, assemblages are not so boisterous; and talks gallantry as they do on