PART IV.

JOURNEY FROM THE CAPITAL TO THE SHORES OF THE PACIFIC.

CHAPTER I.

A Party of Pleasure,-Visit to a Grazing Farm, Views,—Taking of Cattle by the Lazo,—Medical Men,— Value of Labour.

Wednesday was the day fixed for our departure. On the previous evening twelve extra horses had arrived from a farm about six leagues distant, where we proposed to spend two or three weeks; and before daylight the note of preparation sounded in our ears. At length we started, and a more motley group can scarcely be imagined. Chaucer's pilgrims to Canterbury could not have displayed a more whimsical variety either of dress or character. First led the way, a friar of the order of La Merced, dressed in the long white flannel gown and little straw hat of his order. Then trotted forward a secular

priest, with black gown and clerical saddle cloth. A Spanish gentleman, dressed in the Mexican fashion, and three others in cotton printed jackets, with high saddles, pistols, and swords, and large shaggy skins, hanging down before their knees, followed; immediately preceding a Spanish lady, seated on a saddle similar to an old English pillion, and an English lady and gentleman, in the costume of their own country; three female servants, with black beaver hats, under which streamed before the wind, their long hair, carefully plaited with pink ribands, succeeded; and Indians with cargo brought up the rear of this heterogeneous company. Let those enjoy the pleasure of being whirled along in a close carriage, at the rate of fourteen miles an hour, who with Dr. Johnson, consider it the height of enjoyment; but give me the romantic interest, which belongs to an American party, traversing mountainous districts on pacing mules.

Nor did the characters of the individuals differ less widely than their dresses. The friar, who had a small case hung round his neck by a black riband, declared it contained holy oil, the tears of San Ambrosio, and other precious reliques, while the lady, who appeared somewhat skeptical, as positively asserted that he would never take the trouble of carrying any thing but brandy: denials were useless, and with a loud laugh, in

which his clerical brother heartily joined, he acknowledged the pious deception, nor seemed ashamed of his impudent imposture.

Leaving on the right the small village of Pinula, we began to ascend the ridge of mountains called Canales, composed entirely of granite, and lined on each side by wild fruit-trees, bending under the weight of their produce. From their summit the road becomes elevated, and commands a fine view of the adjacent country. Wild flowers planted on different hillocks along the road, at the foot of small crosses, wind around the wood, and serve as simple and pious memorials of those who on these spots have met with an untimely death. A few miles further, brought us in sight of the gate leading to lands belonging to the estate, and in a short time we had arrived at the house. At this time it was inhabited only by the mayor-domo, and was in a decayed condition; it had been composed of three wings, with elevated corridors, but two of these were now in a ruinous state; in the third, which consisted of five tolerable apartments, we took up our abode. The front corridor was hung round with the long wooden bee-hives of the country, and its situation afforded a very agreeable prospect of the surrounding hills.

The following morning we took a slight view of the estate, which extended about twenty

miles in circumference, consisting of excellent land, in the highest state of fertility, well wooded and watered, and comprising different elevations. The house was surrounded at some distance by a steep ravine isolating it on three sides from the neighbouring country, along the bed of which flowed a small river of excellent water, supplied all the year round by three springs, rising within one hundred yards of each other: the fields near were open, and partook of the character of park scenery, and in every direction furnished the most agreeable walks.

Towards the close of the day we had reached the summit of a high hill, which commanded a fine view of the volcanoes, and the scenery near Amatitan. The sun was just setting with extraordinary beauty. The lake lay stretched like a mirror before us. The mountains belted by a girdle of thick clouds, exhibited their tops shrouded in mist, which partially obscuring the waters, hung like a gauze veil over their surface, and upon the woods which covered the hills. In a short time the sun which had been concealed while higher in the firmament, broke forth behind his mantle of clouds, tinging them with a thousand different colors; the lake glistened as if composed of molten gold,—the mountains seemed on fire, while the fainter streaks illuminated the distance, as the king of day slowly sank behind the hills in indescribable splendour.

Over these beautiful lands roam about 800 head of cattle, and 200 horses, generally inferior in quality; among them were some fine beasts, but the majority were small and bony. This property, including the house and stock, had been lately purchased for a sum equal to about £6000 sterling.

During our stay the live stock was collected in pairs on different parts of the farm, to be marked, the milder ones were driven in flocks, and the more obstinate taken by the lazo. The latter sight is interesting to a stranger. On the day fixed for the taking of the wild cattle the requisite number of horses are saddled, and one end of the lazo, which consists of a long cord made of twisted slips of hide, is firmly bound round the tail of each horse, small branches having first been wound about it to prevent laceration. The rider then gathers the rest of the cord loosely in his hand, taking care that the extremity which is formed into a noose is free, and the cord unravelled. Thus prepared he approaches the bull, who aware of his object generally starts off at full speed, and is as closely pursued; the animal accustomed to the race, runs and winds with surprising swiftness and celerity, but unable to compete with the horse is soon overtaken by his pursuer, who contrives with the greatest dexterity to throw the loose end of the Lazo over his horns, and the instant he finds it has taken a firm hold